Did you mod the scoop so that you dont have to remove it when you open the hood at all?Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
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Did you mod the scoop so that you dont have to remove it when you open the hood at all?Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
^^^ thanks for the info guys. I`ll just try the gruppe m one first. If it annoys me then I`ll cut up the plastic one.
No need mod anything man, on my ep was fine with the scuttle piece they sent and the hood never hit the scoop on opening or closing.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
With the rattling issue its the scoop vibrating against the scuttle piece. I had double sided tape under the scuttle to my windscreen, didn't stop the rattle. Put thick tape behind the gruppe m piece doesnt solve rattles. So putting double sided tape between the screws will stop it rattling.Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Srs answer
I run mine like this:
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6160/6...f457c3e823.jpg
Cut a spare scuttle, filled the space with a kit made by Tegiwa. No rattles, no issues.
How much do those sfs hoses cost?
Got mine from eBay UK. It was around $120-130 back when I bought it.
Worth getting because Oem will split
correct. my original split and i noted the current one was starting to too.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
I know there is a lot of questions about fuel consumption on here already but I have a slightly different dilema.
For my most recent tank of fuel, the fuel light came on after 280kms. Decided to push it.
Eventually filled it after 456kms which equalled 45 litres.
So basically drove for 176kms with the fuel light on. Really doesn't seem right.
Has anyone had this problem before? Anyone attempted to calibrate/check the float switch?
remember my car hasnt been tuned, i just slapped on the mods and drove it with bad fuel economy, i could only get to 310 max on a tank. stock got me to 400Quote:
Originally Posted by Azz86
kpro and headers is whats missing
Hi JohnO,Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
Makes sense that a Kpro would make a big difference for fuel efficiency.
It's on my list of things to do :)
Although if you do the maths it's making roughly 10L/100kms which seems to be fairly normal??
I'd be very happy with 10L/100kms. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Azz86
Yeh man. Awesome considering the power you get out of these things :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
Just can't understand why the fuel gauge is so out of whack.
I was in vtec in 5th and 6th gear and my car started jerking like it was going on and off vtec... what could be the problem? it felt like that jerky gear shifting feeling, except i was already in gear...
Also my car feels like its going to stall when I come to a stop sometimes. Usually happens in traffic where i creep forward and then put the clutch down and the rpms drop and my car shakes a bit then goes back to normal...
What oil grade and weight would people recommend for the EP3? I was thinking something like 5W30 Full synthetic.
Think 10W40 is what you are supposed to use in the K20a.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
At least that is what the Acura rsx manual says. It's a K20a3.
I used 10w40 motul
10/100 was what I was doing
My golf pulls around 8.7/100
Think it got worse after the mods? My old pulsar SSS did 10/100 and it was teriible haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
Probably why I don't mind so much :)
You ended up with the R32? How does it go? Any pics?
Well do people think its ok to use 5W30 oil in the k20a?Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
I've been using the Castrol Edge 5w30 ever since I got the EP. It burns slightly, but I'm pretty happy with the performance. I might try moving to a 10w40 after the next track day, see if that helps reduce the burning.
My Gruppe M is sitting at the post office, waiting to be picked up ;)
I'd go the 10W40. No sense in going against what the manufacturer specifies.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Oil is cheap man. Get yourself some Motul or Royal Purple :)
Nice :)Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
I actually already bought like 12 quarts of Redline 5w30 for like $130 so I was wondering if thats usuable, should have checked first but seems that I can run it since RPS.13 is using it in his EP3Quote:
Originally Posted by Azz86
I use 5-30
Guiz
Go get " calibre full synth. 5-30" from
Super cheap auto. Like $38-40 for 5.5l , same shit as castrol edge and Honda premium FEO. ( made by caltex)
Been using it all my ep3's life on the track , no issues
yeah!!Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
Nice!Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
I still have a few litres of castrol edge to burn through though. Might try the calibre oil after the track day then. Seems damn cheap, plus you get 5.5 litres.
I normally get 20% off at Autobarn on the castrol oils, which I thought was cheap :(
NO SPEND $90 ON PREMIUM OIL! Then realise you're a ****ing idiot.
Yeh fair enough. Sounds like your not alone anyway :)Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Apart from the grill and bumper on the FL version, is everything else the same cosmetic wise? For example to FL headlights fit pre-FL?
They fit, but requires some re-wiring.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Damn, big fuel price jump today... :(
just paid 172 :(Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
quickQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
buy that motorbike luke ! $20 fills the bike for a week !
makes me wanna not drive haha, guess i'll take the bus :(
Can anyone recommend me a good mechanic in Brisbane? about to do the 80,000km major service for my ep3.
Thanks alot
For anyone looking at replacing a secondary o2 sensor. I can confirm that the Denso 234-4122 Oxygen Sensor, sold on amazon.com fits for the EP3. Just the wires needed to be extended about 50mm. At AUD $46.52, it was a much cheaper alternative to buying one locally for $300+.
I think there is also one on ebay for ~$124, think its local as well not sure about the cable length though.Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Did you just get some extra wires to extend the length?Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
I just cut out some wire from the old (broken) one.
Also forgot to mention $46.52 was the delivered price.
Has anyone taken apart their Vtec solenoid? How much oil comes out? Just wanted to inspect it and maybe give it a clean; just wondering if i'm expecting a mess or not...
Man I did something very very bad tonight... was cleaning my throttle body, and after I put everything back together, went to start my car for the first time in 3 days. As soon as i cranked the engine, the revs shot right up bouncing off redline for a good 3 seconds on a dead cold start, wasn't even pressing any pedals. So i shut the engine off asap; Turns out the throttle cable wasn't on its tracks so the valve was wide open as if i was flooring it... Sigh... i feel so bad :'( Car still drives fine, but i prob killed my engine life by a few thousand kms..
Don't our ECUs have a rev limiter at 5,000 rpms when stationary to prevent this sort of stuff from happening?Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Not sure, but it was bouncing off on high rpms, just feel bad cause its the first time i started it in 3 days and it was a pretty cold night, imagine flooring it while starting the engine lol >.<
Got my lunch control set to 5000 RPMs :) and Rev limiter set to 8400 for flat shiftingQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Just did a lil browsing and it seems only the facelift models have a fuel cut off at 5000rpms when stationary revving as a safety feature... the pre-facelift did not have such thing, so i guess i was actually bouncing off red line... I don't feel any better haha
you'll be fine dudeQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Motors under no stress when in neurtal anyway
I believe this is incorrect. Mine is an 02 model and it has the 5.5k fuel cut off when stationary.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Same mine is an 02 model. I tried it a few months ago just out of curiosity and it cuts at 5,500.
Hmm, I guess i'll give it a try tomorrow, mines an 03 model
My 03 model also has the same cutoff at 5500rpm.
same here, 02 ep3r cuts off at 5.5k...
Anyone know what the valve clearance gap is for our cars? Did some googling, but most are for the K20A2 or A3. :S
Edit: dw!, after more intense research, its 0.008"-0.010" intake; 0.011"-0.013" exhaust.
Yeh same deal for me with my 02. I read it ages ago but didnt think anything of it. but found out the other day while being bored at the lights
Hello Guys,
What Clutch is everyone using on their ep3? Why are you using this clutch? and What are your thoughts on the clutch?
Thanks!
Exedy sports organic. goes good. took me a fortnight to really get used to it (compared to oem) but it's decent
Exedy HD, needed a replacement for my OEM. this one apparently the best for my use (Street/Daily, 2-3 track days a year).
So far no complaints, so all good..
Yep same here. Great clutch.Quote:
Originally Posted by will13
I've got this one also great clutchQuote:
Originally Posted by will13
Same.Quote:
Originally Posted by will13
Good to know if my clutch every needs replacing!!Quote:
Originally Posted by bluey45
Though I'm not a clutch killer :)
Is it worth upgrading to an aftermarket lightweight adjustable pulley? Have heard it can do damage if not harmonically balanced or something...
Also looking at upgrading headers but have heard many statements that our jdm headers are pretty good already and won't gain much...
No you wont gain much at all by changing headers without a tune, once you have a tune with I/H/E you would probably gain 10kw.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Dont know about the pulley though with the balancing stuff but lighter should = better as less to spin from the engine.
I just heard that a lighter pulley can cause all sorts of long term problems like electrical problems and premature internal wear from vibrations cause the pulley is lighter...
Also, are those 'shorty' headers (headers that just replaces the stock one meeting the engine using the original downpipe) any good?
Anyone know if the OEM door actuator has a Master and Slave unit? Or do they both act as Master units. My drivers side one has decided to play up and I am having a hard time trying to source the correct part number for the RHD model EP3 type r.
I can only find pics and part numbers for the US LHD model, EP3, FIT and CRV's. The left hand side actuator on those have pins on two plugs, where as the right hand side one only has pins for one plug???
Just go aftermarket, even if you change it to another Oem it'll stuff up. It's a common fault for civics built between 2000-2002 where the central locking just gives in.Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
How much roughly is a new K20A valve cover gasket and spark plug seals from the honda dealer?
True you have a good point. An aftermarket kit seems a lot cheaper option too.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
(My initial thought of not going aftermarket was because I'd have to remove both door trims and fiddle around with the wiring, positioning of the actuators etc... I'm too lazy to do that!)
But I guess if the OEM ones are prone to failing more frequently, I might as well just go after market.
Does anyone know if the DC5 Mugen sports pedals fit the EP3?
If you're talking about the Mugen pedal kit you see on eBay than yes they doQuote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
The mugen pedals will fit, simply just slip off the rubber on the clutch and brake pedal, and put the mugen ones on, using the brackets to secure it behind. The gas pedal however will require drilling as the plastic is attached to the metal.
Dont know if you mean an ebay special Mugen replicas or actual real mugen sports pedal set for the DC5 like what the traders sell, as in real mugen.Quote:
Originally Posted by EG52NV
I think we are thinking of this one:
http://image.nengun.com/catalogue/or...rts_pedals.jpg
which is what i have (most likely fakes) well, you'll know by the price difference lol, there are alot of fake ones out there.
Yep those,
I'm no expert but how are you going to know that the ones you are buying are the real deal and seller isn't selling eBay replicas at an extremely high price just to make it seem convincing. The eBay Mugen pedals have everything to indicate that they are Mugen pedals people just know they are reps because they're like $30 but doesn't meant they don't do what they are supposed to...
I would rather pay $30 for reps know that they are reps rather than $300 for a set that might be reps sold at profit margin of x10
Ummm simple man buy it from authorised dealers like JDM concept. $250ish or so but you know their real.
But I can see your point with the reps although I would have to wonder what can go wrong with them or if the face would wear down quickly and lose the grip.
I think it is about $400 from Honda as Poeter got one from them.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
I think with reps it comes down to what part, I my self would never buy rep recaros, it's just wrong no matter how safe people say they are, but pedals are something you put your dirty shoes on to drive your car, they eBay Mugen pedals I've got look pretty much like any other set of Mugen pedal I've seen on other people cars weather the people claim its genuine or not, plus they still have the Mugen engraving on them and having used them for nearly 12 months I still would not dare run them against my face coz the grip surface is still course and grippy as the day I bought them. I personally think everyone should get a Mugen pedal kit weather real or fake because they grip far better than any rubber ever would and go one better when the soles of your shoes are wet!Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
This is exactly my train of thought with the grip level on your shoes esp when wet, something that doesnt have any mechanical or important part in the car is prob fine if replica. But thanks for the feed back I think I would rather spend $30 on pedals if they do the same job as $250 pedals.Quote:
Originally Posted by EG52NV
If you have a link to the ebay ones you bought that would be cool! :thumbsup:
Just type in Mugen pedals in eBay, you'll get hundreds of hits, sort by price lowest first, all replica Mugen pedals are they same and should have Mugen engraved on the top of brake and clutch pedal.
People might say don't buy fakes but I really don't see the advantage of buying genuine pedals for $250 when the rep ones do exactly the same thing which is grip onto your shoes while you step on them and they look 99% if not 100% identical. And for $30 the Mugen reps are the best pedals $30 can buy far better than the rubbish you see at super cheap auto!
Installation is a breeze as is very secure!
Just call up and ask? Just say it's for a DC5R if they ask for part # ect.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Bought a valve cover gasket few months ago. Think it was around the $20 - 30 mark? Can't quite remember though.....