Mine kicks in at 4000RPMQuote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
Feels wicked down lower
Printable View
Mine kicks in at 4000RPMQuote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
Feels wicked down lower
was meant to say stock ecu lol. does the power taper off a bit towards redline?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
NopeQuote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
http://luke.scruffie.com/ep3_haltech.jpg
I'm getting this rattling plastic sound when go up around 3-4k rpm, it sort of sounds exactly like i'm tapping the intake manifold cover (the one that says i-vtec). It seems to sit pretty close to the manifold... just a very light tap makes a sound. Will try taking ti off and see how it goes.
Forgot to mention another thig about the surprise mods. Te car USED to have a GruppeM in it. Back in Japan I think but he might have parted it out. Cos the scoop is still sitting there LOL
That's importer tax.Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
I checked out a ep3 at Edward lees - fresh off boat - and every mod was stripped off ready for OEM parts to be fitted
I personally wouldn't get anything from Edward lees unless they throw in those import girls with the car.
Even then I would still be careful cause just like their you don't know where they've beenQuote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
LOL.Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSteve
I heard it was a bit "salty" up there, so there may be some signs of decay. I'm talking about the cars btw.
LOL. Something fishy indeed.Quote:
Originally Posted by CivicTypeR
LOL. Speaking of salt, anyone else had issues with stains on their glass from being on the boat? My rear window has some bad staining and there are hard water stains around the edges of the windscreen and side windows. Found a company that specialises in removing such stains and getting mine sorted next week. They have franchises everywhere if anyone else has the same issue.
but thats the thing with imports, you can never be sure where theyve been or what theyve gone through. not on revs? no accident history? what about the 1st 5 years of its life back in Japan? could have a touge run and you'll never know. guess you gotta inspect and drive it for yourself lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
These are 02,03 or 04 models- what about the 1st 10 years of its life in japan lol. Id say most EP3Rs have had abit of thrashing or track work.
Some are 05 models . . .Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
True though, mine has a few little telltale signs of mods having been removed. Badly fitting trim in the boot, scotch locks off the back of the ciggie lighter, an Apexi i-Moni on the dash and various stick on wiring clips around the dash/console. I'm not so worried about it having copped a thrashing, thats what they are built for. I would definitely recommend a decent inspection all over to check for accident damage etc though, you don't want to get your new ride home and find out its a cut and shut or something silly.
No-one else has the saltwater marks on their windows?
In Japan though when they go to auction don't they have records of the car being in a stack or not? I thought it was pretty strict there with their version of revs
Lol nobody buys a type r to drive it like a granny :pQuote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
They do, but that doesn't mean Edward Lee is going to tell you about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Correct. Most imports don't come with any logbook history whatsoever.Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
Thats why you dont buy from a dodgy car saleman.Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
Seeing as I imported it myself I saw all the grade sheets and car history regarding any stacks (none obviously) They even detail any little scrapes they car may have like under the front lip. I also did get the service history logs for it too, of course in jap but you can at least guess what has been done to a certain degree and frequency.Quote:
Originally Posted by CivicTypeR
How did you import it yourself? What did you go through?Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
I used a broker to do all the work and inspections to find the car and ship it in Japan then had someone compliance it for me here
Speaking of dodgy car salesman, they dont know what their selling lolQuote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O36vt...feature=relmfu
Lol vvti and no oz delivered version has recaros....
Lol. I watched that clip and almost cracked up listening to the propaganda he was saying.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Haha. Always good for a lol.
I didn't know Toyota made Honda civic type r now
Yeah.. they call it the Yaris YRX
Are race headers worth it (looking at kidd racing)? Considering the jdm headers in our ep3s are apparently pretty good already.
If i get one i'll probs be welding in a hi-flow cat to be safe, but would that negate having a race header then?
my dyno on back two pages is with kidd racing buy with tuneQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
122kw stock and 125kw with just kidd racing installed,, dyno proven
But a lot more than 3kw mid range
Just installed no tune right?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Yeah 137 tuned with injen CIAQuote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Stock
122
kidd racing no tune
125
kidd racing & Injen & Heltech
137
Good header for the price you pay, and as mentioned they give proven gains.
Got my car dyno`ed yesterday. Results and video below.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=UL...yer_detailpage
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1341669060
Gruppe M, Kiddracing headers, highflow cat, 2.5 inch FEELS cat back, stock ecu, no tune.
I'm actually paranoid about getting dyno runs. Seen too many "dyno gone wrong" vids on YouTube.
If i wanna replace door speakers, which size/model should i look at?
current speakers are so crap....
6 - 6.5 inch will fit niceQuote:
Originally Posted by TonyxTony
Nice man, with a tune, i can imagine it would yield some nice results!Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Where did you guys get your KiddRacing headers from? Only place i can find it on Ebay. Also, how much was it, including shipping?
lolQuote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
I would not read anything into these numbers
What do you mean man?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
you can't get 140kw without a tuneQuote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Simple
I only trust Adrian's dyno has he know how to set the ambient temps correctly to avoid fake reading
Go check out the dyno post to get real numbers
I must admit, I thought 140kw was high given the mods. Having said that, if that Mainline (Dynolog) Dyno is anything like the one that I had my car run on, I'm pretty sure that you can't fudge the temps at all. The Mainline (Dynolog) that I made 122.4kw on (stock) had its own weather station that measured all that stuff and applied its own corrections, unlike a Dyno Dynamics unit, which I understand relies on the operator to get the input right? I could be wrong, but that's my understanding of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Out of interest, what gear was that run done in? We did all of mine in 4th and it just clipped the speed limiter each time after making peak power at around 8000rpm, judging by the speed that it made peak power at, it must have been 3rd gear? Maybe that has the potential to skew figures too? I don't know enough about Dyno witchcraft to comment.
Either way, Dynos are a fantastic tuning tool, nothing more, the only 'real' way to find out home many horses you have is via an engine dyno, or 1/4 mile top speeds. I love a good dyno day, and if nothing else, I love spending the day watching hot cars get put through their paces. Loving the build so far RPS, that thing looks tough as nails on the rollers.
yeah ramp rates dyno setting all add to the output numbersQuote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
By the looks that dyno is setup fro RWD cars
I could be wrong but EP3 should be dyno's in 5th for the closed one to one ratio
ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by white_ep3_civic
Today i finally got some time to re grease the steering rack.... but the cracking sound problem still there... only happens when the car is slow... dont know why :/
Does it sound like this?Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyxTony
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xasL7...eature=related
If you've greased up your steering rack plenty, then I would check your swaybar endlinks/droplinks, they may worn and do make a creaking sound similar to the steering rack problem, especially going over bumps. You'll have to take the wheel off and visually inspect them, and try moving the swaybar to see if there's any play. If there is, then you may need new endlinks.
exactly like that sound... not as often as it is in the video.... so it could be swaybar problem ?Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
I just took a look, the bushing on front swaybar looks pretty solid, nothing is moving...
Same as below... only happens when moving off in first, slow speed
mine has this sound however usually only happens when moving off in first, especially a slow uphill one. its more one long creak than many little creaks.
Hey guys...
i'm planning to get PLM headers soon and i was told that it was recommended to get a hi-flow cat with it the same time..
what is the reason for this? can someone tell me?
and also if what i decide to not the get the hi-flow cat with it and just get the headers and get it installed?
wont have any issues?
Without a cat it's illegal, and may also throw off a check engine light. If you have no cat your car will stink lol and maybe backfire alot
cant i just use the stock one?Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
that was what i meant when i said "not get the hi=flow"
my bad
You can use a stock one, but it sort of defeat the purpose of getting a race header as it's more restrictive, wouldn't recommend it. A hi-flow cat is just that, there is less material inside to filter fumes; it's made to flow better while still keeping it 'legal'. Get a 100 cell hi-flow cat if you ever decide to run one
oh okies.. thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
i plan to get the headers first and then later down the track, get the rest, like exhaust and blah blah blah..
money is abit steep atm coz of rego! :(
LOL i drive like a granny most of the time.. :/Quote:
Originally Posted by CivicTypeR
so if u ever see a slow moving ep3 going around then its probably me!
Thanks for the comments man. Yeah I'm not too sure what gear it was run in? I can try look at the other videos and see if I can hear what gear it got up too.Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
I missed the the morning session of when all the other FWD cars were run. My car was run after the first group of RWD were done so you could be right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
with traffic driving like a granny is always the caseQuote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
Spotted a black EP3 today at Quakers Hill Parkway, turning in to Stanhope.
Even if you used the OEM cat.. you'll have to modify it. As well as any other after market cat, whether its hi flow or not. BYP racing are selling PLM headers and a modified highflow cat to fit.. at a price that is.Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
yeah i know.. they were the ones who told me it was recommended with a hi-flow catQuote:
Originally Posted by brody
think they are doign it for around 450 for the hi-flow
the oem cat is too big if you chuck in the headers. it has to be modified. you should save enough money for the header/cat and catback at the same time so it can all be done in the one go. less cost for labour and less headaches if u run into problems like i did.
Exhaust shop should be able to do it for 300 - 350. That includes the price of the cat used. I'll be getting it done next time I'm down. Just make sure whoever you go through, that they don't touch your header or catback. Only the cat.
Sorry that price is for modifying the cat and welding appropriate flanges. Not sure on cost of installation of header/cat.
Price is an estimate btw.
I'm just wondering what oils/fluids you guys are using. Engine and transmission. Any recommendations, particularly with engine oils?
For engine oil i use Valvoline Synpower 10w40, cause I get good deals on it.
Transmission oil, i only stick to Honda MTF, any other and the gears act funny (grinding, lockouts, notchy)...
has anyone had their alternator bearings replaced?
if so, where did you source the bearings?
I was previously using Castrol Edge 5w30, which was really good. I can no longer get 20% off at Autobarn (All my photocopied/fake entertainment book vouchers have all expired). So I'm currently using the Calibre 5w30 Full Synthetic from Supercheap, good oil for the price and handy if you burn through your oil, as you get 5.5ltrs in a bottle. Doesn't run as smooth as the Castrol, but I don't mind it and it is a lot cheaper. I'll be reverting back to the Castrol oil for track days though.Quote:
Originally Posted by patto
+1 for Honda MTF.
Been using Royal Purp 10w40 and Honda MTF3
with a price like that you may aswell get the high flow cat and a defouler installed instead of just modifying the OEM cat (defeats the purpose of getting headers...)Quote:
Originally Posted by brody
I meant aftermarket hi flow which is why the price is what it is (hi flow cat being $200). Yes oem would be a waste of time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyy168
Ok, so finally got start my car up today after it being on jacks for 2 and a bit months, (Changed clutch/Flywheel and radiator but ran into some problems) and it wasn't what i was hoping at all.
- Revs are surging when car is warm (Yes I am aware of preivous posts, and from other forums). Continues when your driving (Took it for a drive as some people have said to take it for a drive, just to see if anything as blocked the throttle bottle from opening/closing properly.
- Second Gear isnt working.
Transmission fluid is topped up. Coolant was obviously just changed. Cant see of any hoses that are disconnected to cause vacuum leak.
Any suggestions for both issues?
Cheers guys
BTW my experience with mishimoto was far from what I expected.
Don't know about second gear but with the surge its possible that you need to bleed the system of air. So you need to take the radiator cap off and run the car for an hour or so so that all the air is pushed out of the systemQuote:
Originally Posted by brody
Why would this cause it to up and down idle? Just curious
As normal I ran it with the cap off, no bubbles, but wasn't for an hour.
Just due to the fact that their is pockets of air travelling through the system. Im not 100% sure as to why this happens but when I was a noob I had this happen to me. After I bled the air out of the system the idle hunt went away.Quote:
Originally Posted by brody
Alrighty. So just leave it hunting for a while and see if it does anything.
Cheers for that:)
maybe ecu thinks ect is not yet at normal operating temp so it will raise idleQuote:
Originally Posted by brody
then car heats up lil bit more, it drops idle. cycle continues because of the air pockets
but tps can also cause erratic idle. (high voltage)
jack car up high and rev it about 3k rpm to get more coolant flow
once tstat opens, you will have plenty of bubbles come up
these kinda funnel is really good for bleeding coolant.
http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/q...Y/IMG_2126.jpg
Tstat is open. Been running for 40 minutes and no change.
No more air bubbles as the coolant stays the same level.
Dammit!
must be your iacv then? clean it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by brody
buy torx screw and open it up and clean it again
then lubricate it with wd40
explain what problems you have when swapping clutch
cant go in second gear when engine is running or when engine is off or both?
Something weird. Turn the steering wheel then stop, and the car returns to normal idle for a second or two then goes back.
Will be taking it to an auto sparky my week off. It can sit for a couple of weeks and think about what's its done.
My revs drop a little below idle when I creep forward then stop with the clutch in as you would do in a traffic jam, crowded car park or reverse parking. I just feels like the car is going to stall, and it's not like i'm pressing the clutch in too late before i stop either.
The car shudders abit then goes back to normal idle... sometimes its so obvious that even my lights dim abit lol It's been like this for awhile too. anyone have this problem?
I see this on both of my ep3's (prefl & fl). Not too sure why this happens.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Yeh will give that a go on my break.Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
no problems when installing the clutch sorry (just radiator).Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
Will have to double check that.. forgot whether it was both or not.
Anyone know if a coilover kit ment for the EU chassis fit into the ep3 ? cause i got offered reasonable price for a set of pedders extreme XA adjustable coilovers
but what stopped me was it was ment for an EU and i dont know whether i should go for the DC5r ones instead?