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Hi there. Just noticed your post. Yes they are all made in the UK. The JDM ones have upgraded engine. UKDM and EDM do not have the LSD, lower CR, smaller cams and so on. The UKDM and EDM has a K20A2. The JDM has the K20A and no badge, oh and 20 more hp. I bought a JDM spec from Sydney as a stat right off for $4250 at an auction not 2 days ago.
Cheers.
Who's this guy replying to?Quote:
Originally Posted by grantmc
the first post lawls
hey guys, can someone confirm with me what the stock tyre size for the ep3 is. I've done some searching and believe it's 205/45/17. I need to get new tyres asap and were thinking of these: http://www.ozzytyres.com.au/store/ku...-88w-ku31.html
Just wanted to confirm whether it's the right size before I go ahead.
Thanks in advance.
i'm wearing 205/45/17 on mineQuote:
Originally Posted by doosra
but after i got my new tyres i found 2 stickers near my door area saying to wear 215/45/17
so one sticker in japanese saying 205/45/17 and the other in english saying 215/45/17
JDM spec is 205
Audm spec is 215 when complianced have no idea why they change it but tyre at 215 sits flush on the stock rim
Thanks mate. What do you recommend? 205 or 215?Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Mine is jdm btw
i thought ther was no such thing as audm ep3... they dont market them here, its a grey import.
You mean that you are running the JDM spec size tyre?Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
Its up to you what you decide to run or what tyre size you want to pay for. Im running the 215's as that was the only tyre I was allowed to be complianced on, otherwise I prob would have run a 225 but then come to think of it the rim is only 7'' (if im correct) wide so prob stupid to do so.
215 seems like the size it should have come from factory.
so by law i should be wearing 215 on my ep3?Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
is that right? so technically i can get a defect?
Im not sure about this if you can get defected or not but I assume that they ADR's state that this car needs to run a 215 tyre on Aus roads for compliance.Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
the OEM size for a EP3 is 205/45/17.
Is it bad that my local Honda dealer didn't know what a K20a is? I told him it's an EP3 and he asked if it was a hybrid. Couldn't believe it.
Picked up some MTF6. Hope it's the right stuff. Says its for all Hondas.
No you won't. My door panel states 205/45/17 which is what it comes from out of factory and is what it was complianced on also so there's no issues. Even if it was meant to be 215/45/17, you wouldn't get defected with just a 10mm width difference.
@Azz86: Just tell them you have a DC5R. And yep, MTF06 is fine. Currently using that in my gearbox and it's silky smooth. :D
Yeah great idea. Doing that next time. Cool thanks. Been a bit notchy into 2nd lately. Hope this sorts it out.
Alright, had a few small dings removed tonight. Looking at the front guards under some decent close up light, we noticed that there was a Honda sticker on each side a few centimetres below where the indicators now are. I'm really trying to get my car as close to stock looking as possible so can anyone confirm if they were a stock item or if anyone has a pic that would be even better?
thats neither bad nor unexpected. they're honestly just salesman hired because they can sell anything. therefore they will only know what they need to sell.Quote:
Originally Posted by Azz86
Not true. Parts interpreters are far from being just salesmen. Hell, when was the last time you went to the parts department and they tried to push you into buying a part? It just isn't uncommon for them to not know the chassis code or the engine which is in a Honda vehicle which was never locally released.Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
yea thats what i meant
may have dramatised it a bit.
Can anyone confirm the part number for the Injen CAI that fits EP3? Keen to hit the go button on one but want to make sure it's the right one first! Opinions/reviews welcomed too.
A search on the Injen website gve me this: http://www.injen.com/docs/other/sear...elID=35&Eng=L4
Note that they only had Civic SI in their database, which should essentially be the same I guess, and i'm guessing 'BLK' means black piping and 'P' means polished
Sweet, thanks. Web at work is way too restrictive . . . Stupid bank system.
Now to choose between black or polished . . . Decisions decisions.
If it were me if choose black haha, just looks cleaner. tho I also painted my manifold and spark plug cover black... up to you haha
I would look at a RSX intake - its almost the same chassis and engine dimensions
Civic Si is a different chassis - does anyone know if the engine bay is similar / same ?
The Civic Si is listed as 'EP3' and the pictures of the install look identical to our engine bay save for the brake master cylinder being on the wrong side, what are the chassis differences?
Ok, have done a little more research on this.
Injen CAI EP3 - http://www.jdmyard.com/index.php?rou...product_id=160
Injen CAI Civic Si - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320949109...84.m1423.l2649
Same Same? Looks that way.
I'm only guessing the si chasis our R wont be different apart from some of the sussy components I could be wrong.
I've always thought the Civic Si, EP3 was the same chassis as the DC5/RSX. Only difference is that the Civic SI is LHD, which means the brake cylinder is on the left side.
The 2002-2005 Civic Si (EP3) has the same chassis as our EP3Rs, I have a Civic Si INJEN intake on my EP3R as we speak.
Didnt know you bought a Ep3 dude.Quote:
Originally Posted by geeang
Anyone here running short shifters on their EP3? Thinking of getting one but heard they wear out your transmission faster. Mainly synchros.
Anyone here got a rear parcel shelf they'd like to part with or know of one for sale?
I have one. But like my usernameQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Suggests I handle the shifter like
A baby's pinky. Every gear slips in like *insert genitals in the act of intercourse*
Honda Australia are absolutely hopeless with imports or anything other than new cars. One person will tell you no, next person will say yes (Once in a blue moon). I try my hardest not to deal with themQuote:
Originally Posted by Azz86
Haha, yeah, I try to be as nice to my shifter as possible, treating the shifter like an egg. Which SS did you get? Noticable improvements? Would it help with the 2nd gear mini-grind/scratch?Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
I heard there isnt much difference with a short shifter installed, might as well spend the money on other mods.
Hau mut did you pay?Quote:
Originally Posted by Azz86
already came with the ar when i bought it but i believe its BuddyClubQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
never had 2nd grind, but shifting from 2nd has to be slow and extra gentle. the part of the throw that takes it from 2nd to neutral doesnt have the smooth satisfying thunk. this only happens when shifting from 2nd.
Yeah for sure. It's pretty sad really. Why they can't hire somebody that at least has a slight interest in cars. Idk. I guess they are trained to be that way so that we want to buy the new civic. Keep dreaming haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by brody
It was about $21 for 1 litre. I bought 2 bottles because I think it takes 1.5 litres. Also bought a genuine oil filter which was $19.Quote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
Whats everyone's opinions on black EP3? Are they worth a lot more than white?
Is it just me or has anyone noticed that the brakes on the ep3 are pretty average?
hey guys, my o2 sensor needs replacing and the car i purchased comes with warranty (which i know is mainly bullshit warranty), and the dealer which I purchased it from recommended me to a mechanic that they use for warranty service. The mechanic said to me that he needs my car for the day so he can take off the o2 sensor and then send it away to be made. I questioned him to ask him why as he could just get an oem dc5 o2 sensor and fit it right on which will be very quick and he said that he prefers to get them made because in the past they haven't worked with oem.
I really don't trust this mechanic and what he's planning on doing as I know it's best to get oem, however because the sensors are about $310, I would prefer to go through this mechanic to not have to deal with warranty hassles going through another mechanic.
Thoughts guys?
Many people including myself have bought aftermarket Denso (who also makes oem stuff) o2 sensor on Amazon for around $150 with shipping, maybe less. It's really easy to change as long as you know which sensor has gone out. Then simply unplug, and replace. As for the part number, i cannot remember.
I paid $42+$6.00 shipping for my denso one from amazon.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
washed my car today.. goddamn it was so dirty! had to wash it twiced coz after i watered it down... i noticed it still wasnt clean enough!
all clean now!! :D
.... until like 1 hour ago, some bird pooped on the side of my car!! TWICE!!! :(
haha this 'mechanic' sounds like a bit of a douche. Farkin 1 day to remove an 02 sensor? maybe if he's taking the engine out to get to it. Yeh sounds dodgy man, Its a shame that a good/trustworthy mechanics are hard to find these days.Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
I'm only going to him cause the warranty is easy to claim through them. He said he needs to take the sensor out and send it to get made. Makes no sense to me
Yeah thats bullshit man he cant get that part made. Needs to come OEM or OEM replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
Run, Run as fast as you can.Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
You mentioned its 'easier to get the warranty' claim through this particular mechanic? You were also referred there by the company that has provided you with the warranty (and ultimately the company that pays for the work).Then, said mechanic doesn't sound like he knows what he is doing. My spidey sense is tingling . . . This situation is wrong on so many levels.
Just get yourself an O2 sensor off amazon and replace it yourself. If you don't know how to, I'm sure someone from this forum would be happy to help out. I wouldn't think an O2 sensor would take any more than approx 1hr/3beers.
I'm really considering it. Anyone got a link from amazon to the part?
This is a start: http://www.amazon.com/Denso-2349004-...words=234-9004
I am not completely sure about the part number, but this is what the denso website came up with http://www.densoproducts.com/results...ctCategoryID=2
I just found out that the warranty has $200 excess but when I bought the car, they said no excess. I knew this would be the case as I've read in many posts that all the aftermarket warranties are bullshit. I'm just pissed cause when I bought the car, they disconnected the bulb so i wouldn't see the engine light warning. I think I'll end up throwing the warranty away and going with my trusted mechanic. The car is still running beautifully and I'm very happy with it, except this minor problem. I'd feel more comfortable paying my own money knowing its done the right way.
I'm looking at some other forums and seems it may be this one http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-9005...pr_product_topQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Can anyone confirm?
These are the part numbers for the 2 denso o2 sensors.Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
Primary Oxygen Sensor 234-9005 - perfect fit
Secondary Oxygen Sensor 234-4122 - need to extend wires
$200 dollars for excess, wowQuote:
Originally Posted by doosra
the same amount i paid to get my o2 sensor replaced + its OEM as well (o2 sensor i got is the american one)
or you can just buy the sensor and do it your self, takes 20 minutes tops with a jack stand lol
Did you buy this car from a car dealer? If so, you actually have statutory rights in terms of a warranty from a dealer. Also that warranty with an excess seems suss.Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
Im not sure about that part in particular but I bought this one and so did RPS.13, I havent fitted mine yet I will do this week but I know RPS.13 have been running it without issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
Yeah it's shit and suss warranty.
Wow, 50 bucks. Is that maybe the secondary sensor or something? Why such a big difference?
Just replaced my valve cover gaskets and seals, and whilst i was there I did a valve clearance check and adjustment to the minimum spec (intake .008; exhaust .010). The engine is definately a hell lot quieter (previously had loud tapping noises) and driving feels alot more smoother across the rpms; but i notice its consuming fuel alot faster than before...
Also, a thought on heavy shift knobs since i'm currently waiting on a blox 490. They say heavy knobs can damage your shift linkage in a way that its similar to resting your hand on the shifter. Now most of these are referring to floor mounted shifters. However with the ep3's since we have a dash mount shifter which is also sits quite vertical, wouldn't it be worst? since gravity is acting against it, especially when you're in 1st, 3rd and 5th gear? Is there a potential for it to 'pop' out of gear if say... I brake hard or go over bumpy roads?
Yep the o2 sensor i bought is a secondary sensor.
The primary ones are a lot dearer, both in the states (around $140ish US) and around $330 to $350 bought locally, throughJDMyard, jdmconcept etc.
As mentioned earlier, buy it yourself and diy it, if you have the tools. If not take it to a local exhaust shop. They'll fit it up for you pretty cheap and get it done quickly.
Oh dude it was a secondary one? Man just bought it thinking it would be the primary one :oQuote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Spotted a ep3 this morning around 10am entering m4 and one just now 10.30pm entering m4 at burwood. Anyone here? :)
No they don't. I quite like the feel of itQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
+1 ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
Anyone recommend some good daily & spirited driving brake pads? Prefereably low dust, and won't eat my rotors, with decent bite... if that possible to have altogether haha
The Project Mu type NS pads that came on my car from japan felt pretty good for daily/spirited driving, with the stock rotors. They're relatively low dust when compared to the Ferodo ds2500 pads I'm using now. The rotor wear seemed normal.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
A comparison of dust: approx 6 weeks with Projust Mu's = around 1-2 weeks with the Ferodo
The Ferodo's are a great pad for the price. A good combo when paired with a set of the dba slotted rotors. Great on the track and fine for daily driving. I've kind of gotten use to the dust build up. As long as you don't have white wheels, I'm sure you'll be fine. They'll wear through the rotors more quickly though.
Can someone do me a favour and verify whether all your warning lights on dash, most importantly the engine light remain on when you turn the key to "ON" position which is just before you actually crank to start the car. I'm pretty sure the ABS light should turn off but the other lights should remain on including engine light. Reason I ask is I took my car to have the o2 sensor fixed and things just don't feel right with this mechanic. I have a feeling he may have just put a switch or something in to power the engine light bulb when the car is on and then automatically switch off. The mechanic is associated with the mechanic, hence why I think I'm getting gipped and it's a cost cutting exercise for them. Hopefully I'm wrong
My engine light will light up along with all warning lights on dash once I turn the key to the ON position, but will turn off after a couple if seconds of having this key in the position.
Thanks all
Well, happened to be waiting in the car and read this on my phone so I tried it for you.
The engine light turns off after a few seconds, then the SRS light will turn off a few secs after the CEL. All others stays on.
Cool thanks mate. I feel better now :)
Those of you that upgraded your rotors to dba or something similar, did you guys use s2k rotors?
You need to upgrade to EP3/dc5r rotors no need to s2k rotors the only reason I could think of using s2k rotors is using DC5r jdm brembos.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
WOW! talk about a brand new bunch of people around!
To all the old peeps who remember me, yep, i'm back!
To those that don't, heya! and welcome to the ep3 club!
How's it hangin' guys? anything new happenin besides the new members? did i miss out on a lot of cruises and photoshoots?
btw, to those who didn't know, i now drive an integra type s.
ANYWAYS! i'm back in the scene now, although i'm in a different vtec machine, and happy to hang around and crash those ep3 meets.
p.s. Steve, i still see your car every morning at lidcombe, you hoon! =P
suppp mate long time no seee Steve is still the hoon king =)Quote:
Originally Posted by flubbar
Although technically i could use some dba rotors for s2k and they will be the same as upgrading to dba ep3/dc5 rotors? Are the dba s2k rotors larger or do they need some mods to fit?Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
I ask just in case i ever do decide to go the brembo upgrade i could just get the dba s2k stuff now rather than buy ep3 stuff only to have to pIrchase rotors again.
Hey guys
all the guys with the Gruppe M, can you please tell me (and anyone whos interested in getting one) where and how much you guys get the intake for?
im looking for one but so far jdmconcept and xposed ship it into australia
no luck on yahoo auctions either :(
The hat height is different. The ep3 rotor hat height measures 47.5mm, the s2k ones are only a 40mm. The diameter is the same.
As Perry said, only reason you buy them is for the jdm dc5r brembo upgrade. I learnt that the hard way, by accidently buying the wrong rotors (s2k).
To fit s2k rotors to the OEM caliper, you`d need some sort of custom made spacer/bracket to move the caliper out a further 7.5mm. And longer caliper bolts. Not worth the effort imo. When you can buy ep3 rotors off the shelf.
You`ll need different pads for the brembo upgrade anyway. So you be better of getting new ep3 rotors and pads now and selling them off later. Then buying everything for the brembo upgrade, if you are looking at upgrading. Or just upgrade to the brembo kit straight off.
I think one of the guys was selling one off his ep3?Quote:
Originally Posted by Icebox
Got mine from japan through Jesse Streeter, i paid $956.16 shipped via ems, 4-6 day delivery. Email him for a quote. Awesome price, service and very reliable :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Icebox
I cant remember the yen rate when i purchased it at the start of march this year. But the price now should be fairly similar.
This is what I actually mean regarding my last post about the engine light. Notice how it goes off before the engine is actually started. Normal or not?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2zq...e_gdata_player
I assume if it wasn't fixed I could plug a diagnostic tool into obd port and it would spit an error code right?
Video link is private; but yes the engine light will go off after 3 secs or so, followed by the SRS light when the key is on ACC II, it is normal.Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
I have a question. Few days ago, I did a valve clearance check and was wondering how to tell if the timing chain and tensioner is going bad? Anyone ever replaced theirs? nice to have a little peace of mind and preventive maintenance if ever.
I know it's meant to last the life of the engine... but then again, the life of my engine could also mean when the chain decides to screw up lol