The ceramics are gradual. They slightly less initial bite, but brake harder as you press down on the pedal. Pretty good I reckon. They are not touchy at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
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The ceramics are gradual. They slightly less initial bite, but brake harder as you press down on the pedal. Pretty good I reckon. They are not touchy at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
my mechanic recommended bendix and i went with it, did i make the wrong choice? car is daily driver and has never been on a track.
also, what do you guys think about running diff brand pads front and rear
my rears are gone, my fronts are ok.
is it ok to run oem fronts and hawk rears, or should I swap all for hawk?
Bendix is fine for street. Hope you got Bendix Premium/General CT and not Bendix Ultimate. The Ultimate is aggressive on the rotors.Quote:
Originally Posted by blk05gli
It's fine, just change the rear as long as the left and right are the same brand/model.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
The rears alone are so weak that they contribute very little when the car is under hard braking.
It seems the ones listed under TSX above are not the current model used in Australia. Yfin, if you are still on here, can you let me know how you went?Quote:
Originally Posted by yfin
Hi All,
Could someone confirm the Hawk Ceramic part numbers for an 05' CL9? Is it HB366Z.681 for the front and HB366Z.681 for the rear?
I'm getting a bit of brake shudder when braking from 100km/h+ (and slow "shudder" when slowly pulling up at lights), so i'm thinking rotors are either warped or have build up on them. The first thing i'm going to do is replace the pads (since the OEM pads are just about buggered).
If that doesn't fix it, i'll get the rotors machined. Will running new pads on potentially warped rotors cause any damage to the pads?
On a side note, the OEM pads have a white paint dot that lines up with a paint dot on the caliper, does this mean they are the original pads?? I bought the car with 70k on it, it's now down 86k. Is that typical pad life?
Cheers,
Steve
Get the ones for the 2004-2008 CL9 TSX listed on Heeltoeauto.com. I think the part number is listed there too. They sell the correct size.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroSteve
86k is pretty good brake pad life in my opinion. It depends on driving style, but pure city driving can wear the pads out much quicker than 86k.
^^ my experience has been that manual cars have longer brake change intervals than autos. Both my cars have about 100K on them, but the maxima has had 2 changes and the Euro only 1.
cheers
Cheers Arron :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
For others that are interested, I can confirm the Hawk Ceramic part numbers (for CL9) are HB366Z.681 and HB145Z.570
Dixcel M can be used for both track and street depending on what car and what time you do on the track. If you are a novice, type-M will be fine, but if you cranking some good times on the track, type-Z is your friend.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
In regards to brake life, mine still had some meat on them (not much) and thats 83000k's, no wonder why OEM's cost so much, usually the bendix pads I get wear out straight away.. but it might also have to do with the way I used to drive my previous car :)
Anyone know the actual brand / manufacturer or the specs (hard / soft) of the OEM Honda pads?
was it both front and rear that made 83000?Quote:
Originally Posted by xxb4xx