17x9's look alright?
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17x9's look alright?
Anyone know of an EP3R parting out / wrecking?
Lol i got some stock suspension, intake, rear swaybar etc :p
Inbox cleared, took me ages to find where the delete button was lol...
Anyway, problem: My dash water temp sensor is not 'centered' when the car is fully heated up. It gets near, but leans more towards the cool side and never moves, unless of course the car has cooled down.
http://imageshack.us/a/img207/4953/imag0682.jpg
I also notice my aftermarket water temp sensor reads a little low, around 65-70c when moving and slowly crawls to 80c when stopped. Most other DC5r (judging by same K20 variant) averages around 80-90c, as well as my friends EP3.
I'm not sure if it's a stuck themostat or the OEM temp sensor going bad, my guess is the thermostat since my the Prosport gauge also reads a low temp. Any thoughts?
UNA91:
My thermo sits on that same exact spot, I went up to half way on a track day but normal driving thats where it sits.
Mine just never moves any more higher, even if I push the car hard for a spirited drive or hoon the hell out of it lol >.> Not sure why the water temp reads low too, anyone have a aftermarket water gauge and wanna share their readings?
I've adjusted the gauge sensor position and topped up the fluid to the correct level and bled the system correctly
Thanks guys. I'm after a front bumper, not too fussed if its face lift or not
thrashing/spirited driving/hooning does not equal track
brakes chassis and engine are all being pushed to the limit.
vtecing and shifting at 8-8400rpm for a few seconds at a time puts no where near the amount of heat that track does, considering during track, your consistently at 5000rpm + for minutes at a times. not the same as giving it a hit down an empty road after a corner lol.
aright fair enough lol, btw where is the max line in the coolant reserve tank? I think I've got a leak at the bottom where it flows back into the radiator
At the track my genuine Defi gauge reads my water temp as being around the 110 degrees mark. Day to day driving, unless I sit in traffic after the car has been driven for a while, it won't ever reach 100 degrees.
wow what exactly happened to the car? did he blow the engine or crash it?
i tried to look for the gumtree link but from the looks of it Dedy removed it. but the wreck was pretty bad, the bottom of the long block was ripped off on impact and the driver side fenders were pretty banged up. from what i was told took a turn to quick and rolled it, chasis aint to good but what he had in the car was pretty insane, mugen ecu, headers, hi-flow cat and other stuff, spent 10k in total on the car but sad to see it gone, personally think his cars are one of the cleanest ep3 examples around
picked it up at 30 000kms to ='[ so low
will 17x9 +38 cr-Kai clear spoon monoblocks without extended studs and spacers?
reason is i maybe changing the knuckle soon, and these dont have extended studs, so fitting spaers on them isnt the best of all ideas
Can you PM me his number?
Call xtrememotorsport they bought a shell off me that had the lower air con line on it.
When an ep3 wreck comes up its like a bunch of vultures gather around to pick the meat off the carcass :p
Thanks for the help guys! gumtree had a completely different number listed "9747 8004".
Just got in touch with him. :)
I've looked at the EU3 bumpers, do the EP3 grilles fit on them?
Sorry to bring this back up... If I leave the car to idle when the car is warm (stop lights etc), the temps on my aftermarket gauge goes to around 80-85c which seems to be the average temp for k20 engines based on what i've read; however when i start moving about 60km/h or more, it drops to about 65-70c. The temp sender is placed on the upper radiator hose. First I thought it was just the wind going thru grill and cooling the sender, so i blocked it off with cardboard so no wind is going through it and it still drops...
The oem dash gauge doesn't fluctuate and stays in its position when its warmed up like in the picture i posted a few pages back, so I don't think it's the factory coolant temp sensor, since from my understanding that only sends the temps to the dash gauge. Possibly a stuck open thermostat?
If your thermostat was stuck open I'm pretty sure your radiator fan would be constantly on. Had this happen on another car before though it wasn't a Honda.
I would have thought if it was stuck partially closed the fans would be on alot and my temps would be reading higher but the fans function just fine. Just thought mine was open causing overcooling thus reading cooler temps
Guess i'll replace the thermostat when i do my radiator flush on my next service; Just have to find the part no for it. The DC5 thermostat the same isn't it?
Hey guys, anyone able to tell me what the go is with hondata. So dam confused hey haha.
Do we send our ecu off too them? Because thats inconvenient as f*ck. Just wondering as I may end up going down that path in a couple of months time. I'm on Perth btw, so anyone in Perth who experienced hondata and tuning.. please speak up:)
Being my first aftermarket ecu and having the car stay n/a. Haltech would be way to complicated and half the options I wouldn't even use. Hondata would be more user friendly I would think, including basic but needed options to street tune your car. Unless with your Haltech experience you can tell me otherwise:) although.. I haven't found a hondata knowing tuner in Perth yet.. so this may become a problem ha
A heap better in what sense though?
You should look into this:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...pore-OCT-12-13
Ah cheers man. I saw that before but wasn't sure I'd be home. Turns out I get back on the Friday. Stupid question, but what'd be the go with using one of the supplied Honda ecus?
Hondata*
You'll need to get your immobilizer reprogrammed at honda if you get a supplied one. If you send in your current one, you don't need to reprogram the immobilizer.
****en wow one of the clutch cylinders just carked it. friction point was low as ****, and then pedal would get stuck on floor. managed to utilise godlike skill to clutchless shift it to my mechanic, around the corner. lucky.
getting new master cylinder got quoted around 220 for everything.
its not as hard, just wind up the rpm a bit more and when you shift just hold it with some very light pressure against the gate and it will slip in as soon as the synchros line up for that split second. hardest part is being quick without being forceful.
tbh i shifted to 2nd and then just puttered along a 70kph road at 40 to the mechanic LMAO didnt wanna risk it i love my gearbox
by the way does anyone know if the clutch and brakes share the same master cyl?
trying to figure out what caused this, it was driving perfectly, clutch was beefy, felt like doing left legged squats every time i drove, the whole time since i owned the car right up until that moment.
dickhead caused me to ram the brakes hard, subsequently downshifted to 2nd and i immediately noticed how different it felt, less push coming back up on the pedal, soon after at the intersection, tried to engage 1st gear and noticed the friction point was at the floor, stalled and then pedal was stuck. such a drastic change leads me to believe something happened when i slammed the brakes. any experts?
The clutch and brake cylinder are two separate parts i believe. Just a rough guess, something must've been bent from the shock when you slammed the brakes. Pressing the brakes does flex the firewall slightly so some of that shock may have been transferred along the tranny?
Anyone know where I can find a good priced car cover with thick padding against hail for a reasonable price?
^ I would also like to know this.
Anyone know if the k20z FN2 thermostat will fit an ep3?
Guys never ever take ur measly ep3 for granted. Pretty sure lost of u are used to it and long for a more powerful car. I just got a daewoo courtesy car to drive while they're fixing my clutch cylinders. And omg. Made me appreciate the performance of the ep3 so much more. I don't even... /rant
Well, the daewoo isn't particularly a powerful car we long for lol
I was in the L.A. not long ago and had a ford fiesta. O how I missed the ep3!
its been bothering me for a while, wanting to swap for a s2000. anyone driven both? how does the s2000 feel?
I had s2000 before I went ep3. It's a great car but had it for a couple years so wanted a change. S2000 was more fun to drive for sure
So I was in Bock Hill (Box Hill) last night and was parked on the main street when I spotted a FL EP3 saw a guy taking pictures of it and started talking to him. He was telling me it was his before he sold it and had done some mods like exhaust and j's racing ECU but no headers or exhaust and saw that the new owner had done some other work like gauges and stuff. Asked they previous owner if he tracked it and he told me no. WTF??? why mod your car and not do anything with it but drive it at legal speed limits?
As I was about to leave I see the new owner go over to his car and same shit. Might as well buy a camry and put cromies on it. Seriously why mod your car to go faster and handle better when all you will do is drive it on the roads as a daily. Ultimate fail imo.
I know what your saying but I think you might have misconstruded what I meant,what I was saying is that I dont mind tracking apart from the cost (track days at $200+), thus I was saying that I wasnt interested in tracking on a regular basis.
The guys with porches or Ferraris usually dont go spending money doing mods to them and barely drive them at all its just for them to take it on a night out while they drop $400 on some wagu steak with their ugly ass slut like brianne eccestone, who the fcuk would want to be seen with her??? But if you look most have very low km's.
LOL. I guess different people get kicks out of doing different things. Many, many awesome builds over all over the world (including Australia) which have race inspired mods but don't go out onto the track. I'd never do such a thing as I don't have that sort of cash myself, but for the people who do, I can respect their decisions to wanting to own a car modified to their own taste without wanting to track it.
exactly what i was saying.
on another note, got the car back after the master and slave cylinders got replaced and clutch felt awesome again.
i noticed there was fk all free play at the time i picked it up. by the time i got home with it, there was 1-2 cm more free play. is that normal? i know thats its not good to have no free play at all, but im worried about whether its normal for the free-play to adjust itself as i operate it.
I think you'll find alot of ep3 owners who don't track with mods or not. Most just mod for blinginess for what I've figured. For example, I've seen many ep3 or ek's or eg with all these strut bars, funky coloured lower arm bars + LCA.
Quite honestly, i think these body reinforcement mods are just dead weights for most people. A typical driver don't have the driving skills or push the car hard enough benefit from these mods. For most case when someone claims they do feel a difference, it's more of placebo effect. Normally, I think it takes professional driver or someone with good circuit racing experience to feel minute difference.
Therefore, many just mod for bling rather than function. Not ultimate fail but that's what some people pursue.
Not me
I 1/4 mile mine as much as work allows lol
Thats why I brought it hahah
KOOKS
hey guys, i know this is not really meant to be here, but wanted your thoughts on these: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....:X:RTQ:AU:1123
This guy is selling these project kics neo chrome for $100. Real or fake?
At that price, I'd go out on a limb and say that they're fake. Bought mine direct from Japan last year and the price was ¥11,760 (equivalent at the time to about $180) exclusive of shipping.
There's also a neutral feedback on the serller's profile saying that they aren't genuine. Seen replica Project Kics wheel nuts on the market before and wouldn't surprise me if these are one of them.
Cool, yeah I wasn't sure whether ppl made fake project kics. I mailed the seller and he replied "as far as I know they are genuine" which clearly means they are fake lol
also, before I go ahead and purchase this, can someone please confirm that this is the right part for our ep3's: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INJEN-SP-...item3cc9d44ad9
Model number listed is: SP1576BLK which seems to be the same on the jdmyard site.
It's only $314 delivered which is so much cheaper than purchasing locally.