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26-09-2012 04:15 PM
#13789
Originally Posted by lemmiwinks
Thanks for the help guys! gumtree had a completely different number listed "9747 8004".
Just got in touch with him.
I've looked at the EU3 bumpers, do the EP3 grilles fit on them?
the one you called was for Michael at Xtreme motorsports, the number looks really familiar thats why haha
but dedy will look after ya, top bloke
I let my Mrs hit Vtec, Maybe you should too!
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26-09-2012 04:27 PM
#13790
Originally Posted by lemmiwinks
Thanks for the help guys! gumtree had a completely different number listed "9747 8004".
Just got in touch with him.
I've looked at the EU3 bumpers, do the EP3 grilles fit on them?
They should because they are the same bar with a different grill attached I havent tried myself though.
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26-09-2012 07:50 PM
#13791
Sorry to bring this back up... If I leave the car to idle when the car is warm (stop lights etc), the temps on my aftermarket gauge goes to around 80-85c which seems to be the average temp for k20 engines based on what i've read; however when i start moving about 60km/h or more, it drops to about 65-70c. The temp sender is placed on the upper radiator hose. First I thought it was just the wind going thru grill and cooling the sender, so i blocked it off with cardboard so no wind is going through it and it still drops...
The oem dash gauge doesn't fluctuate and stays in its position when its warmed up like in the picture i posted a few pages back, so I don't think it's the factory coolant temp sensor, since from my understanding that only sends the temps to the dash gauge. Possibly a stuck open thermostat?
vtak + jrsc = bwwaaaahinneeeee
IF GUNS don't kill people, people kill people does that mean that toasters don't toast toast, toast toast toast?
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26-09-2012 08:30 PM
#13792
If your thermostat was stuck open I'm pretty sure your radiator fan would be constantly on. Had this happen on another car before though it wasn't a Honda.
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26-09-2012 08:41 PM
#13793
I would have thought if it was stuck partially closed the fans would be on alot and my temps would be reading higher but the fans function just fine. Just thought mine was open causing overcooling thus reading cooler temps
vtak + jrsc = bwwaaaahinneeeee
IF GUNS don't kill people, people kill people does that mean that toasters don't toast toast, toast toast toast?
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26-09-2012 09:22 PM
#13794
Originally Posted by Symphorced
If your thermostat was stuck open I'm pretty sure your radiator fan would be constantly on. Had this happen on another car before though it wasn't a Honda.
Never heard that
Generally honda thermostats fail in the open position , with coolant circulating constantly the fan/s are likely never to come on.
The temp takes longer to reach optimum , and will drop when driving normally.
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26-09-2012 09:47 PM
#13795
Guess i'll replace the thermostat when i do my radiator flush on my next service; Just have to find the part no for it. The DC5 thermostat the same isn't it?
vtak + jrsc = bwwaaaahinneeeee
IF GUNS don't kill people, people kill people does that mean that toasters don't toast toast, toast toast toast?
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27-09-2012 01:38 AM
#13796
Hey guys, anyone able to tell me what the go is with hondata. So dam confused hey haha.
Do we send our ecu off too them? Because thats inconvenient as f*ck. Just wondering as I may end up going down that path in a couple of months time. I'm on Perth btw, so anyone in Perth who experienced hondata and tuning.. please speak up
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27-09-2012 08:59 AM
#13797
Originally Posted by brody
Hey guys, anyone able to tell me what the go is with hondata. So dam confused hey haha.
Do we send our ecu off too them? Because thats inconvenient as f*ck. Just wondering as I may end up going down that path in a couple of months time. I'm on Perth btw, so anyone in Perth who experienced hondata and tuning.. please speak up
Buy my Haltech already turned
Plug N play
161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO
13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001
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27-09-2012 12:04 PM
#13798
Being my first aftermarket ecu and having the car stay n/a. Haltech would be way to complicated and half the options I wouldn't even use. Hondata would be more user friendly I would think, including basic but needed options to street tune your car. Unless with your Haltech experience you can tell me otherwise although.. I haven't found a hondata knowing tuner in Perth yet.. so this may become a problem ha
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27-09-2012 01:15 PM
#13799
Originally Posted by brody
Being my first aftermarket ecu and having the car stay n/a. Haltech would be way to complicated and half the options I wouldn't even use. Hondata would be more user friendly I would think, including basic but needed options to street tune your car. Unless with your Haltech experience you can tell me otherwise although.. I haven't found a hondata knowing tuner in Perth yet.. so this may become a problem ha
Well Adrian (TODA) said Haltech are heap better than Hondata
As for user friendly I don't beleive they're any diff
161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO
13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001
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27-09-2012 01:37 PM
#13800
A heap better in what sense though?
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