how much you selling it for 8thgen?
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how much you selling it for 8thgen?
http://i48.tinypic.com/1gm1s4.jpg
In with the new, out with the old :-)
http://i50.tinypic.com/2ue2vz8.jpg
JDM socket set yo! ;-D
http://i45.tinypic.com/biult.jpg
For a job completed sucessfully! "Twisted" Fanta flavor ;-)
Nice. Feel the difference? :)
God yes! Thank you DuffyFD and also Stevil for giving me the feedback on these! Only got the top installed at the moment, going to do the base later this week.
Shifts are smooth, no wheel hopping, no jittering, and the car sounds like its been turbo charged :-P
Torqued the bolts until they couldn't be torqued without excessively insane pressure and I checked them after about 40kms~ and no movement.
God I love these mounts!
I took them bottom out if anyone is interested in it lol
where did u get this drink?Quote:
Originally Posted by lolmclol
oh and didu notice more vibrations at idle?
Yeah I've decided after this evening that I might stick with the top mount only, I would like to have some dash and parts left on the car ;-).Quote:
Originally Posted by DuffyFD
Nothing beats that grin when you switch on the car though eh? :-P
Curtis265: The BP on leach hwy in Myaree ... only one that always has newish flavors and are always working haha. The BP in North Perth on the corner of charles st and scarborough beach rd that normally has it working but just rasberry fanta (freakin' sweet) and coke, or there's a Gull at the corner of canning hwy and griffiths st which always has bubblegum and coke haha.
More vibrations, but its tolerable, I'll give a better opinion after I've done about 1,000km with them in.
Aries FD with air and BBS > any S15.
FD OWNER NO LONGER GUYS!!!!!
don't worry i will still check this thread on a daily basis hahaha.....
if anyone needs stock sussy or stock airbox they're up for sale i just need to clear garage space =].
haha thanks bro.. but ive always wanted a proper car which i can mod internally ^^Quote:
Originally Posted by threesix
Your still young right? Won't insurance rape you? Plus the never ending parts for S15 would add up HELLA quick. And never end.
But I see what you mean... A tricked S15 would be amazing coming from a FD.
Rims on.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/18/5ese6atu.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/18/tyhydabu.jpg
17x9+22 with 215/40
Now front bar to go back on and clean up the body and SEX
dayum nice u got them to fit? looking schmick
Yep looking good Duffy ! did ya sort the studs out ?
Thanks guys :) bit more fitting to work on getting the front a little less cambered and lower.
Yeah thanks man. Did some research and Sparco NS2's require shanked wheel nuts. Picked up a set and all was well! Saved the headache of redrilling or extended studs!Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevil
yeah lol im 18... to be honest, i'd rather a project which i'd be working on for at least a few years and id probably wont be selling the car as its a car which i've always wanted :)Quote:
Originally Posted by threesix
duffy: pics with the new rear!!!
Duffy im planning to buy fn2r seats, is it bolt-on on our fd1? If not where did you get your rails? And how much? My car is vti-l and it has airbags.
I have FD2R seats which I'm willing to part with. Pm me an off if your interested
FN2r seats are not straight bolt on, the brackets are different. Will cost to get brackets welded. (Cost me 350 - 400).
If you organise with EGB then I'm happy to swap my seats, which are FN2R seats with fd brackets with the fd2r sears with cash my way.
That way you'll have a legal set that fits and I'll make a bit of my money back.
I'm 2007 vti so no need for me to have the airbags.
fd2r fits straight into fd chassis. fn2r seats do not as duffy has stated.
Rndy: you would need the fn2r seats since u have airbags. the clip for the weight sensor will cause ur airbag light to go off (and potentially not deploy the airbags in the event of an accident - this is debatable, i don't think anyone has actually tested this, or would like to, but either way it's defectable to have that light on and showing).
I tried to bypass the sensor as i had a pair of fd2r seats before, but it was just way too difficult and complicated and i didn't want to f around too much, so i just sold the seats.
Best bet is to do what duffy has suggested, that way everyone wins!
EDIT: i was by the way able to bypass the AIRBAG sensor (by using a resistor), but the WEIGHT sensor is the one you'll have trouble with. The only way is to pull out the sensor from your vti-l seat and somehow insert it into the fd2r seats. And i doubt you'd like to do that because it would probably involve the destruction of the vti-l seat lol, which is not worth it.
You can't bypass the weight sensor with a resistor (not of the Ohms we tried anyway), and most people who have transplanted the weight sensor from their euro car seats (VW golf, even Skyline too) into recaros were able to do so because they could remove the sensor without destroying their stock seat. None of them found a way to bypass the weight sensor via a resistor or some cheeky method like that, which is most unfortunate lol.
Airbag/Weight sensor.
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/insid...ket-seats.html
Cars looks freaking sweet DuffyFD!
in that thread they suggested a 2ohm resistor on the sensor - this does NOT work as i have tried it myself. anyone is free to prove me wrong though.
As for the first two options, i doubt anyone would be too excited to attempt them.
18! Wow. I think I'm the oldest and most immature person on here. For my age S15 insurance would be peanuts. Lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Areis
Also, Don't drink and drive :)
Johnny and areis.Quote:
Originally Posted by Areis
How was it boys. Saw ya areis. Where was lilkevin da boss lol.
was good ! expected more this yr but oh well :LQuote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
how was DQ for you boys?
Should've said hi Francis! Kevin was with us for most of the time.
Defqon was good but as Johnny said, I expected more as well..
You guys going stereosonic? I'm so keen I can't wait :D
yous walked off, was near the toilets
thinking about district 7 and stereo.
they need to bring mysteryland here. 3 day festival brahz
Ohh right, must've been when we just got in then. I heard there's a new q dance event coming in march ^^
IQON ~! ;D
im looking at some simota intakes guys, which you prefer on a r18a
http://www.simota.com/productsinfo.php?ID=547 ($350)
OR
http://www.simota.com/productsinfo.php?ID=389 ($450)
I actualy saw a defect station/rbt on the way to regatta centre. LOL
Those intakes will still suck in nice hot air...get a cold air intake!
I rkn just save that money and do aesthetic mods to the car.. Intake really doesn't make a difference on our FDs. But then again, it's all up to you. Might sound fantastic on your car though cause you have a sick exhaust...Quote:
Originally Posted by jprak
Quote:
Originally Posted by Areis
Quote:
Originally Posted by xenonkuraz
true guys, im just trying to find a intake that i can put my sensor in as in the 08 models they are connected to the box and not the pipe
any suggestions
Stick with a K&N drop in filter, easy to clean, cheap and proven on the dyno. I am yet to see anything out perform it on the dyno !
I have an 08 model too. My intake is custom made and it only cost me $200 + K&N filter. It is located behind the foglight. It might be worth looking into cause it's cheap. Problem is, my engine light comes on every once in a while cause of the way th sensor is connected to the pipe (not perfect).
I miss my FD...haven't driven it in over 2 weeks
getting a respray at the work shop
I want a respray too! :(
courtesy of insurance ;) got hit from behind so they're spraying a few other panels too
mind you i had to pay a bit of hush money but sall good
Out of all the people 'in the know' I asked said the same thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevil
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXWdJ...eature=related
/wants neons :o
spraying the car same colour or a diff one ;DQuote:
Originally Posted by xenonkuraz
going through the car with glitter.
also getting my new rims sprayed fluro purple. cant wait to see how that turns out
gram lights anyone? going cheap!
Please lower your car.
What new rims u getting?
No lows
Fwarkkkk I wouldn't mind respraying the civic baby blue.... So USDM
^ srs?
yolosQuote:
Originally Posted by xenonkuraz
I didn't think it was that obvious he loved oreo's.Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
http://imgc.classistatic.com/cps/bln...257g1i_20.jpeg
Mugen Showa Sport Suspension
Quality: 10/10
Hi guys
I have some noob question. What are the differences between these
17x7+45
17x7+55
The look: are they the same?
The driving feeling: which one has the better steering?
.........
Thanks
Anyone have a rear sway bar for sale?
+55 may not be safe for the car as i think factory offset is +42?Quote:
Originally Posted by iou
+55 means your wheels will go into the guards another 10mm (55-45) and ull have 10mm less clearance from the inside.
driving feeling? Itll feel the same..
Could be wrong, but factory offset is +45 I thought, but +55 would be dangerously too high o.0, at least without spacers.
Baygon, should look at at the progressive RSB, apparently that with reinforced links is marvelous.
The wheel im looking for is Work Emotion XT7. My car is honda civic FD, 2010
17 X 7.0 [4-100, 4-114.3, 5-100, 5-114.3 / +32, +42, +47]
What is different between 100 and 114.3
If you were me, which offset would you choose +42 or +47, and why?
Thanks guy.
+42 wheel will be more flush with the fender, +47 wheel will be more sunk into the fender.
You should read up on wheel fitments, its worth it, and wimenz will totally sleep with you for knowing it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Offset_(wheel)
I would choose +32. I can't stand looking at my car with no poke anymore... It just looks wrong.... And don't go 7'' wide because I know you will regret it. Go for at least an 8'' (will fit without guardwork) or 9'' (requires guardwork and stretch for hellaflush!)Quote:
Originally Posted by iou
And you will need 5x114.3 cause its a honda car with 5 studs and the distance between each stud is 114.3.....
^^^agree with the 7" wide, looks abit too small. i currently have 17x7 +35 work vs-xx looks ABIT small on the car for some reason<.< planning to go 8" with another set of wheels later on
On my next set of wheels i'm going 9" wide all around with 30 offset
Mine will be 9" all round next.
17x9 is minimum for respect points :)
Looks like I'm getting 16x10's then.
you'll be needing duffy's fender flares foh sho
Not if I have your 4x4 stance ;)
function > stance
turbo + 4x4 = win
After reading your comments, I have decided to get 17x8, but I am still confused about offset. What is the point to get bigger or lower offset? If I dont want to upgrade brake kits, suspensions, use any spacers, so which offset will be the best?
Thanks
offset determines how far in or out the rim sits, i.e. how the wheel spokes bendQuote:
Originally Posted by iou
Google: wheel offset, pcd, tyre width, camber, etcQuote:
Originally Posted by iou
you need to understand these fundamental basics before even attempting to modify your wheels
saw 3x white FD's in cabra area 1 with RR front and stock rear and another with mugen kit. anyone here? besides itachi's fd
sorry about the lag, finally got to film the brake light. bad camera (iphone 4)
http://youtu.be/nbo6iselsmQ
Jprak hows the exhaust man? I'm really thinking of getting the Buddyclub Prospec one..
exhaust is pretty good. very quiet. doesnt attract attention =)Quote:
Originally Posted by Areis
ill try get a clip of the sound tomorrow =)
nah man, its all about checking out them hella slammed and hella flush rides yo then copying their setup! because all you need to do is bolt on them baller wheels with oem steelie lugs yo!Quote:
Originally Posted by xenonkuraz
Depends on what you're going for.
Lame = 15-17inch rims 7-7.5inch wide, offsets higher than +25
Average = 17-18 inch 8inch wide. Offsets around 25.
Decent = 17-18 inch 8-9inch offsets +20 - +30. This will be poking without a bit of camber. You'll need to be rolled for these and you'll need rear camber arms and front camber bolts as a minimum to start being able to fit.
Baller = 17-18inch, 9+ wide offsets lower than +20. This will require stretched tyres and neg camber, and rolled / shaved guards.
Personally I'd stay away from 18+inch rims, for three reasons.
1. Too heavy
2. Too think tyres + expensive
3. Makes getting low much more difficult.
For example my current setup is:
Front: 17x9 +22 with 215/45 and -1deg camber.
Rear: 17x9 +22 with 215/45 and -3.5deg camber.
Personally IMO to get more baller I'd go say 5mm lower offset in the front and rear.
Yep, thats what I want to know. I have googled everything already. Which one I am still confuse I ask you guys, because you have experiences with these. If all you say GOOGLE it, I have nothing to say :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by lolmclol
I appreciate your info. Thats very helpful. Thanks manQuote:
Originally Posted by DuffyFD
LOL!!! man! you make my FD seem so lame =( running 17x7 <.<
Reason I'm trolling is because I've spent a huge amount of time reading and looking at wheel fitments, and there is a lot of things to consider than just selecting the wheels and bolting them on, as you would now know.Quote:
Originally Posted by iou
I just feel it would be worth learning about it before selecting wheels, and really knowing the ins and outs.
Personal opinion, so no offence :-P
anyone got a front lip or bodykit for sale?
or know a good place to buy from?
cheers.
Its okay. Takes time to move up the baller ladder. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by jprak