anyone recommend good shortened tie rod ends?
Printable View
anyone recommend good shortened tie rod ends?
Tie rod ends don't get shortened. You mean the tie rods themselves? Or are you after inverted tie rod ends?Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
shorten tie rods are awesome! more camber lol
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by stienerv2
Got -3 with just tie rods and camber tops. More with bolts!
Hey guys I have a quick question.
The previous owner of my car had a Toda racing exhaust system installed, would that affect the O2 sensor which could be the reason for my terrible fuel inefficiency?
I just poured in a bottle of fuel flush today so if the fuel inefficiency doesn't get any better than I'm assuming it's the O2 sensor.
Could it be damaged or just dirty?
How many km's are u getting per 10L? Might be spark plugs.. If your averaging 100km/10L then you're fine
No where near close 100km/10L, I'm getting about 320KM to a full tank.
are you sure its a full tank? ive gotten almost 100km out of the tank when the light turned on.
Pretty close to a full tank, I mean I fill it up till the click, wait 5 seconds and fill it till the 2nd click.
I'm certain they'res something wrong with my car.
How many litres do you then fill up when it's 'empty'?Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
You need to measure by how many km's to litres poured as fuel indicator light may give false readings.. I think an ep3 tank is about 50L. Drive 100km and fill up and see how many litres it uses. On average use 10L per 100km
I just calculated it and yesterday I filled up about 44L, spending around $75 with Vpower being $1.70.
I'll let you know how far I get with this tank, this is with the fuel flush mixed in this tank.
But I know for certain they'res something wrong, I've logged my past fill ups, and for the last 5 full tanks I haven't been able to get over 330KMs till the light appears. I was expecting at least 400kms.
If u got 330km/44L there must be something wrong. Try changing your spark plugs as I've heard they can be the cause of heavy fuel consumption
when my light appears im usually at the 300lm mark
when i refill, it takes in around S45-55 of ultimate at $1.70/L before its full.
Must be vtecing 24/7
All day, erryday son.Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
lmaooQuote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
Also check if you got OEM ecu. There's a possibility your car came with a race ecu.Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
My friend's ep3 was also pondering why he can't achieve 400km per tank.
He figured that his car came with a race ecu (impact! - some random japanese brand who has some affiliation tracy sport).
That's a nice surprise with a race ecuQuote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
Hahaha would love it if it came with a race ecu although it's killing my petrol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
check tyre pressure as wellQuote:
Originally Posted by viett
how many km's before light comes on
I get just under 400 when light comes on. Stock ecu. Although I pop with my skunk2 exhaust (runs rich) and I drive with vtec a lot :P
At the 300KM mark is when the light usually comes on.Quote:
Originally Posted by integraR
pop or burble? if it crackles/burbles on decel its not from running rich, its a different sound from lift off pop.Quote:
Originally Posted by dnapol
btw put up a vid of your skunk2 exhaust, havent heard one on an ep3 before
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/28/img2871xb.jpg
Is this the stock ECU?
Also I found this UNDER the glove box, anyone know what it is?
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/21/img2874w.jpg/
It says Mitsubishi motors on it.
Don't go pulling things out if you don't know what they are lolQuote:
Originally Posted by viett
Char
Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
The top pic looks pretty stock. Although there could be more labelings.
But a race ecu usually has a sticker like this
https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/i...YM3hC0a_UWPqw1
For the second picture, it's the steering cpu based on the part number.
http://www.garagelive.jp/auctions/index/87119250
408kms and still no light yet.. This is all peak hour driving from cabra to north Sydney everyday.... Filled up only 41L.. Love me ep3, such a great car for a daily.
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/460...0315182008.jpg
****kk, me jelly bro.Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
Haha sorry for rubbing it in.. :) How long have u had ur ep3 for and has it been like that since u got it?
HAHA nah man it's all good :PQuote:
Originally Posted by doosra
I've had my car for about a month now, it's been like that since day 1.
Might just finish off I/H/E and then probably save up for K pro and tune, hopefully it'll fix the problem.
Mines got i/h/e as well and still good.. Did u have a look at spark plugs at least?
Yeah I had a look at my spark plugs and they seemed fine, not too long till I replace them so I hope things go better from there.Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
What I/H/E are you running? :D
Injen/plm/tegiwa
Looking to upgrade to stainless steel brake lines, what would you guys recommend? HEL, Goodridge or SFS?
I'm running APP Racign braided lines from JDM Yard, worked a treat at the trackQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
After a cold start, when shifting into second gear the car jerks abit, but also has this 'whirring' sound, like say the car jerks 3 times, it'll be like... 'whirr whirr whirrr' but once the car warms up its all smooth :S
Also during idle with the stereo off, i can hear this feint chattering sound, and when i put my clutch it for about a second or two it disappears... i've heard ot flywheel chatter when people install lightweight flywheels so could it be due to the lighter flywheel the jdm ep3 has? I've also noticed that if i put the car in reverse immediately after depressing the clutch there is a nasty grind, so i have to usually hold the clutch in for a second or two then it goes in smoothly :S
Thrust Bearing or Gearbox Bearing perhaps?
When the nasty grind happens, does it still go into gear fine or is it stubborn and feels like your clutch isn't disengaged properly to allow the change?
Very jelly!!Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
Hey does anyone know what the EPS light means? And my fuel thingy is broken, it's just empty and has the light on, anyone know how to fix this ?
Question!
When I re install a new cam cover, do I just use the rubber gasket? Is there any special sealant I need to use?
Much help needed, thanks
Place a dab of sealant on each corner.Quote:
Originally Posted by dnapol
Anyone know the go with fitting jdm brembos on our ep3? Is it a direct fit after i get s2k rotors and some brackets made or do i really have to get the entire dc5 assembly like the lcas and stuff? Otherwise its just too much hassle lol
You won't need full JDM DC5 brake assembly. From what I've read it's just the S2K rotors.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Dc5 big brake brackets fit on ep3. My harrop bbk from a dc5 bolted straight up with the new rotors and extended studs
Been reading everywhere people needing dc5 knucles lcas and all that :S but maybe thats just for the non jdm ep3s... also i heard that the front wheel fitment will be all whack lol
Would be whack if you use the entire JDM DC5 brake assembly as it has completely different offset. Won't be able to run aggressive spec wheels at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
My bbk added 10mm to my offset due to the hat on the rotor being thicker. Thus, I know run a +40 instead of a +30 as my effective offset right now is +30
Does anyone know how to wire up remote central locking to a JDM EP3R? I've a USDM EP3 service manual, but it's no use at all as the JDM EP3's don't have "Multiplex Control Units"
To make it even easier for me, which wires would I wire these to:
UNLOCK-NO
UNLOCK-COM
UNLOCK-NC
LOCK-NC
LOCK-COM
LOCK-NO
:)
Anyone here using Hardrace engine mounts? How long does it take to install and how much would it cost to install at a mechanic?
I'm using mugen mounts and hasport rear mount. Cost me $250 to install professionally.Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
Oh wow $250?! I was quoted 5 hours at $90 hour.
Takes about 2-3 hours. Are u based in Sydney? Go to Top One or Good Performance Centre, whichever is closest.
Unfortunately I'm not, i'll have a talk to my mechanic but yeah 5 hours does seem abit unreasonable for engine mounts.
Would it be really hard to install myself?
Should be able to do it yourself, provided you have the right tools. Change the engine mounts one at a time and support it with a jack and yellow pages in between to avoid any damage to the sump / gearbox.Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
Takes me about an hour or so to change 3 of them..
Breaker bars and wd40 will be your best friend
Hi,Quote:
Originally Posted by KIKNHRD
Part number is 36531-PRB-A01 for the JDM Honda ep3 sensor. Denso has an aftermarket replacement but from what I've heard your fuel economy will suffer as the denso makes it run a LITTLE bit richer. I wouldn't recommend using the AUDM DC5 sensor as it is a different part number and I'm pretty sure it's not a wideband like the JDM ep3 sensor. Also don't cut the wires on the sensor side you are better off extending it on the connector side...TBH you are better off not extending it at all as by extending the wire you are changing the resistance thus making the o2 sensor give an off reading. Just buy the right sensor.
If anyone wants sensors I can get them for around $250-280, if we can do a group buy it will be the lower. That's for a genuine Honda sensor.
Cheers,
I've used the subaru upper engine cleaner and I thought it was the best stuff everr!! ...until I used the wurth system cleaner and realised how much better it was. And yes you get all the carbon deposits flying out of the exhaust and the black smoke and crap. They are both fairly good but like all Wurth Products it is far superior. Made the car more responsive and even felt like it got through the revs a bit smoother. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Get in on some good bits EP3 crowd!
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...odridge-etc.!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemmiwinks
I believe changing the front and rear are the most annoying ones as it takes time to wiggle the mounts out and wiggle the new back in.
I've got mugen mounts waiting to install. Any reckon it's a better idea to DIY the left and right engine mount and then leave the front and rear to the top-one or any mechanic? I'm estimating this would probably save 25-30% of the labour involved.
I've been told by more than one person that passenger side/gearbox mount is the most annoying one. Did my rear mount just two nights agi. Wasn't too bad except for having to remove headers to access the mount bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
Looking to change my brake fluid since i bought some HEL brake lines. Would it be worth going for the Motul RBF (dot 4, around 312 degrees dry boiling point? and super exxy...) or would just normal dot 4 or 5.1 fluid (around 275-280 deg) be enough?
I do alot daily and spirited driving but no track work, would i be seeing those temperatures on say a very long drive or going on twisty mountains?
one guy should be able to change all 4 mounts in around 2 hrs give or take. Front is the hardest - rear and sides piss easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
If you are in Syd. ill change all 4 for $150
For some reason my windscreen mist washers have gone whack... only like 20% of the water reaches the windscreen, others just seems to spray the roof and the side of my car... its not clogged or anything
I realized that when I drive from a cold start, my car feels faster; especially when just on the fixing point it seems to roll faster but as soon as the temp goes higher and my engine begins to warm up, the car feels slower but mostly noticeable when rolling on the fixing point in gear one. Anyone have any idea what's going on with my car?
Hmm, possibly 02 sensor going bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
When the engine is cold, it should run on open loop and rely on the ecu mapping and not the sensor. Once engine is warm, it runs closed loop for part throttle, and relies on the 02 sensor maintain stoichmetric Afr
thanks for the help, would you recommend changing the primary O2 sensor?Quote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
Probably ask a mechanics opinions first and if he also thinks its possible, probably should inspect it first as these sensors are not cheap
By fixing point do you mean clutch biting point? I thought on a cold start the car runs heaps richer and would be a little more responsive, and because your idle is higher on a cold start the biting point would be as if you're revving to move? ...if that makes senseQuote:
Originally Posted by viett
Question: anyone know if a KPRO made on a AUDM DC5 ecu would plug straight into the JDM EP3?
i know who to go to next time when i get my mounts changed! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
I dont know but i got a haltech platinum pro in my EP3 now which im about to sell. Tuned to 139kw by TODA so PM if ur interestedQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Ohh yeah I get it, thanks for the help, guess there isn't really any problem :PQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Really starting to finish touching up the minor imperfections of my car, maybe ready for my first engine modification.
Already got Toda exhaust system up to cat, kind of on a low budget $300-$800, best bang for buck?
Suggestions please :)
Injen intake and some headers, PLM headers are good bang for buckQuote:
Originally Posted by viett
has anyone had a flat battery from not driving for a month?
i wanna know if its normal, and simply the immobiliser draining the power or if my batt is leaky. New batt as well
If you have your battery connected without driving for an extended period of time - it will drain.Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
in just under a month though?Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
Yeah battery will drain if u don't drive for a while. Don't know specifics on time frame but I'd say a month will do, especially if there's alarmQuote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
cheers, just wanted to know if it was normal or if the batt was leaking as well
Would be pretty easy to tell if your battery is leaking... you'd see a whole lot of rust on your battery tray/stay.Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers