Lock out sensor is basically stops you from accidentally shifting into reverse. I think it uses use moving speed to sense it. As for running kpro I'm not sure, but you'll want prb, prd or pre ecu
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Thanks for the reply.
Turns out the Ep3 I was looking at a few posts back is running the incorrect Kpro and has a broken lock out sensor. Also found out that the engine doesn't have a receipt from the builder to confirm the engine hasn't been stolen (also found out that dr Honda is a scam artist from BYR). Thsts just the tip of the issues wrong with the car, I'm glad I got that pre purchase inspection done. Car is impossible to engineer without a legit receipt from dr Honda.
dr. honda? wat tha fuk is this shit
Is this the white K24 going for 16K?
I need to find out what type of standard globes the EP3 has in the headlights. Currently the standard lights are like hmm 2 candle power and the high beams are maybe 4. Looking at getting some HIDs, any ideas?
Saw Icebox just now on parramatta road outside granville
looking to put my double din touch screen in.
is it just the harness plug (stock to JVC) and ep3 specific fascia ill need? a lot of conflicting info around on other forums
and anywhere to get them from for cheap? not sure bout ebay if theyre made for jdm or usdm or ukdm? should be same yeah
Im getting confused on the fascia part I got a double in it just sits a little bit on a angle.
what do you mean?
how did you secure it in the slot? points up to the sky aye
No need for a fascia. Double din will fit perfectly in the ep3. I have one installed in mine. Its also worth getting a reverse camera which I bought for $13 and works a treat.
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/946...0411065402.jpg
ive already got a few reverse cameras lying around, gota find a way to secure it. inb4 duct tape
I used double sided tape to mount mine lol, its next to the tow hook so i can use it as a reference. it's not noticeable either :D
Anyone have HIDs on their high beams? My highbeams make no difference at all with my low beams (hid) on lol and i drive on pitch back roads every night. Not like i flash people either anyway.
^pics of ghetto camera mount pls
hey guys,
the noob section takes forever to get an answer, so ill just ask here.
In regards to the ep3r, what model of hondata k pro would you need in order to do a proper tune. do you just get the k series hondata kpro and your good to go?
thanks.
Maybe tmr in the day i'll get some up if i can remember
http://www.hondata.com/kpro.html
KPro itself is the model, but you'll want it installed in a PRD (jdm ep3r), PRC (jdm dc5r), PRB (audm dc5r) or the the ecu from the accord type r, which i cant remember. Dunno about the Type S ecu. Then get it tuned based on your mods from a good tuner. I suggest you get the basic I/H/E before tuning.
fuark ausd so shit right now aye
seat covers $175 delivered, last pair i bought was $120 only a year or so ago
Aren't the new type r's using lift?
Google i-VTEC... cbf explaining...
https://imageshack.us/scaled/large/9...1003423243.jpg
Had to remove the rear bumper to wire it and fed it though a grommet on the drivers side, wasn't too hard. Once it reaches the yellow line on the screen i'd be about 25cm away from the curb from the tip of the tow hook
On other news, replica mugen wing came! and new wheels yo, one of my fav wheels of all time, wedssport tc005 forged.
Thinking if i should colour match the center part of the wing or make it black..
https://imageshack.us/scaled/large/5...1003359849.jpg
Does anyone know if the autowatch aftermarket immobiliser cuts power to the ECU for ep3s sold by IMG?
I discovered that when I'm using the OBD scanner, the long term fuel trim resets to 0% every time I turn off the car with the key.
The car is always learning when I start the car and potentially not achieve the optimal AFR.
Perhaps, this explains frequent carbon build up appear from the exhaust ??
Have you thought of the fact that Aussie fuel is a few octane ratings lower than the intended (tuned for) JDM fuel ?
This is turn will naturally make the standard ECU retard timing and run richer - giving you this carbon build up and also not-that-good fuel economy.
You can plug in a local DC5R or DC5S and this will help with your carbon problem over time and also gain back decent fuel economy!
bawse
Inb4 reverse into liftkitted 4wd bull bar.
Its just a reference lol, like all reverse cameras you should never solely rely on it. Still always do the old head check
Sadly i've had two people who reversed into my car right infront of me, with oem reverse cameras and beep sensors in their expensive cars, and yet play all innocent claiming they didn't see it in the reverse camera... One even tried to make me pay for the damage done to his car. I was parked and wasn't even in my car for goodness sake
haha harsh victor
never thought this forum would be so low lol
Its ok man, they rock fake shit too, but just don't post it up...
http://media.steampowered.com/steamc...83a7c_full.jpg
Yes, I do acknowledge that aussie fuel is not as great as JDM fuel and do play a part of carbon build up. That's common knowledge floating amongst most EP3 owners.
However, I am interested to understand what the OEM ecu is "naturally" doing to richen up the fuel.
Anyway, from what I have gathered is that the long term fuel trim parameter on any ECU is not precisely 0% and should be within range of -10% to 10% under normal running conditions. This is value formulated from the short term fuel trim which is dictated by the signal read from the primary oxygen sensor.
The prefl ep3's long term fuel trim value always resets to 0% for time the engine is started. This value is too ideal to be realistic and hence I'm curious to understand why this is the case. On my fl ep3 however, which has a different immobilizer system retains a value between -6% to -5.5% each time I start the engine. Based on this the prefl ep3 complied by the workshop which IMG (who did the aftermarket immobiliser) does not seems to persistently store the long term fuel trim value which my facelift ep3 does. Both use OEM ECU but compliance were done at different workshops.
Now the interesting observation and comparison from rear exhaust tip of both ep3s is that the prefl appears to be relatively darker with carbon soot than my fl ep3. This seems consistent with the fact the my fl ep3 is running relative leaner than the prefl ep3 based on long term fuel trim. Hence, I have a concern that the immobilizer always resetting the ecu (due to power cut off) and resulting the prefl ep3 running slightly richer than it needs to.
Anyway, just food for thought that got me curious.
Should be glad that not many others have a GENUINE mugen wing lol. :p
He takes your motor Ill take the turbo kit.
Should try and fit a 2GR-FZE into the Elise/Exige hahaha
What's our standard front and rear sways size?
Rear sway is a 22mm hollow bar
ummmm mix answers for the rear ummmmm
Jdm ep3 is 22mm. I think the us or uk one is 19mm
Anyone got a vernier caliper and stock anti-roll bars? Go measure LOL =P
If I had my friends EP3R with me, I would do it for you Perry :p
So I went for my first mountain run and it was great, but know i know instead of aiming for power, I want handling.
I feel that sometimes if i corner to hard, my car begins to lose traction, other than tires what other upgrades can I do to improve handling?
I currently have engine mounts and an exhaust.
what tyres have you got atm?
Sailuns, they came with the car.
what sway bars would you recommend?
Cusco makes a 25mm one, and whiteline makes a 24mm. Both are adjustable, and Whiteline is more available. Coilovers help a ton too, but get some rear camber arms if you plan to lower tho
Tyres first. Then reassess
After that, coilovers or a larger rear sway bar depending on what you want from the car