03 Std CL9 HID Installation

Quote:

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Originally Posted by oongie

under the plastic headlight moulding works a treat!
Even with the BIG fat ballasts

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Did you drill the balasts on there? or use tape?

double sided tape no need for drilling...
now that would be a pain in the ass...
doesnt go anywhere with the double sided tape!

interesting.....very interesting
LoL

Okay guys I have another problem now.. When the engine is on, I find that the light flickers continuously. This does the same thing with my custom interior LED lights too... I thought it would only affect my interior lights but I can't seem to find the root cause of all this?
Could this be a battery issue or Wattage difference? So far my parker lights have blown 2 times using White SMD lights.

Thanks


Yes you need to drill a hole if you want a snug fit. It's hard to just shove everything under the plastic cap. (Hence why I just used the duct tape to cover it)

As for the installation, its very simple. Just the driver sides a B*(@_ to do because it has the washer fluid plastic cover. You can remove the one bolt there 10mm socket or even with a wrench. I took that out and it made the job 100 x easier. The clips were a little hard to put on again because the HID bulb is a bit bigger and it needs some brute force to lock the bulb in properly in place. Should take no longer than 30 minutes even for a noobie :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by djpro1

Okay guys I have another problem now.. When the engine is on, I find that the light flickers continuously. This does the same thing with my custom interior LED lights too... I thought it would only affect my interior lights but I can't seem to find the root cause of all this?
Could this be a battery issue or Wattage difference? So far my parker lights have blown 2 times using White SMD lights.

Thanks


Yes you need to drill a hole if you want a snug fit. It's hard to just shove everything under the plastic cap. (Hence why I just used the duct tape to cover it)

As for the installation, its very simple. Just the driver sides a B*(@_ to do because it has the washer fluid plastic cover. You can remove the one bolt there 10mm socket or even with a wrench. I took that out and it made the job 100 x easier. The clips were a little hard to put on again because the HID bulb is a bit bigger and it needs some brute force to lock the bulb in properly in place. Should take no longer than 30 minutes even for a noobie :)

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In regards to the LED lights etc, you might want to look into getting a voltage stabliser because the euro has voltage spikes, esp when the headlights and interior lights arnt drawing the power they are suppose to, because LED's draw less power as do HID's.
I got one and havent had a problem since, my LED parkers use to blow every 3 - 6 months, now had them in for like 8 months no worries.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by N3M3SIS

In regards to the LED lights etc, you might want to look into getting a voltage stabliser because the euro has voltage spikes, esp when the headlights and interior lights arnt drawing the power they are suppose to, because LED's draw less power as do HID's.
I got one and havent had a problem since, my LED parkers use to blow every 3 - 6 months, now had them in for like 8 months no worries.

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Like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Perfo...Q5fAccessories

I mentioned it in the CU2 mods thread. Just wondering if it makes that much difference? Sounds great if it stops the led's blowing but any performance or fuel economy gain as claimed by the manufacturer?

So just buy one from ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12V-88-MAX-VO...#ht_3479wt_944

What does is this 88% thing mean?