03 Std CL9 HID Installation

**N3M3SIS** · 30-03-2010 01:26 PM

Originally Posted by oongie

under the plastic headlight moulding works a treat!
Even with the BIG fat ballasts

Did you drill the balasts on there? or use tape?

**oongie** · 30-03-2010 02:23 PM

double sided tape no need for drilling...
now that would be a pain in the ass...
doesnt go anywhere with the double sided tape!

**N3M3SIS** · 30-03-2010 02:45 PM

interesting.....very interesting
LoL

**djpro1** · 30-03-2010 10:38 PM

Okay guys I have another problem now.. When the engine is on, I find that the light flickers continuously. This does the same thing with my custom interior LED lights too... I thought it would only affect my interior lights but I can't seem to find the root cause of all this?
Could this be a battery issue or Wattage difference? So far my parker lights have blown 2 times using White SMD lights.

Thanks

Yes you need to drill a hole if you want a snug fit. It's hard to just shove everything under the plastic cap. (Hence why I just used the duct tape to cover it)

As for the installation, its very simple. Just the driver sides a B*(@_ to do because it has the washer fluid plastic cover. You can remove the one bolt there 10mm socket or even with a wrench. I took that out and it made the job 100 x easier. The clips were a little hard to put on again because the HID bulb is a bit bigger and it needs some brute force to lock the bulb in properly in place. Should take no longer than 30 minutes even for a noobie

**N3M3SIS** · 31-03-2010 08:38 AM

Originally Posted by djpro1

Okay guys I have another problem now.. When the engine is on, I find that the light flickers continuously. This does the same thing with my custom interior LED lights too... I thought it would only affect my interior lights but I can't seem to find the root cause of all this?
Could this be a battery issue or Wattage difference? So far my parker lights have blown 2 times using White SMD lights.

Thanks

Yes you need to drill a hole if you want a snug fit. It's hard to just shove everything under the plastic cap. (Hence why I just used the duct tape to cover it)

As for the installation, its very simple. Just the driver sides a B*(@_ to do because it has the washer fluid plastic cover. You can remove the one bolt there 10mm socket or even with a wrench. I took that out and it made the job 100 x easier. The clips were a little hard to put on again because the HID bulb is a bit bigger and it needs some brute force to lock the bulb in properly in place. Should take no longer than 30 minutes even for a noobie

In regards to the LED lights etc, you might want to look into getting a voltage stabliser because the euro has voltage spikes, esp when the headlights and interior lights arnt drawing the power they are suppose to, because LED's draw less power as do HID's.
I got one and havent had a problem since, my LED parkers use to blow every 3 - 6 months, now had them in for like 8 months no worries.

**will2k** · 31-03-2010 09:58 AM

Originally Posted by N3M3SIS

In regards to the LED lights etc, you might want to look into getting a voltage stabliser because the euro has voltage spikes, esp when the headlights and interior lights arnt drawing the power they are suppose to, because LED's draw less power as do HID's.
I got one and havent had a problem since, my LED parkers use to blow every 3 - 6 months, now had them in for like 8 months no worries.

Like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Perfo...Q5fAccessories

I mentioned it in the CU2 mods thread. Just wondering if it makes that much difference? Sounds great if it stops the led's blowing but any performance or fuel economy gain as claimed by the manufacturer?