lol fair enough, but i didn't reply to your post above :p
my first sentence probably didn't make sense.. i meant cam gear numbers hehehe
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Parts such as lightweigh flywheels, gear sets & final drives will make the most of the torque you already have.
They won't increase it however.
For a road car, a 4.9 + LW flywheel is as far as you'd need to go here.
Without opening up the engine, the following will give modest torque gains.
Good CAI - EG: Injen
This will give more low end than a short ram or Mugen box.
Top end power is still acceptable.
Use a quality header...
What ever the design, be sure to buy one that is proven to work.
If using am unconvenional interference header. (Tri Y)
Be sure that is includes stepped primaries so as to retain an accepable level of topend power.
Headers of a conventional 4~2~1 design do not require stepped primaries.
The rest of the exhaust system should be free flowing & 60mm ID.
Good systems to use are Fujitsubo or Mugen.
Both make systems with acceptable noise levels.
Once these parts are on, look at the ECU.
For best results, a full ECU is better.
However a VAFC II or similar can still deliver reasonable results. (Though slated toward top end gains)
Depending on car, adjustbel cam pulleys can also net reasonable results.
However this is not in all cases & depends on how well your engine performs already.
For larger increases,
The compression needs to be increased & camshafts looked at.
More again would come from quads & capacity increases
If you want to double torque output,
Get a turbo.
I/H/E ECU+tune
thats what i need right now!
upgrading your final drive is too crazy for streets and pretty pointless....stick with your 4.7...with a 4.9 you'll be constantly changing gears, reving at 4.5k at 110km/hr and wasting more fuel....
As above get good headers good intake and tune would be a good platform for you...
quad throttle bodies :D
Using a 4.928 final drive over stock item will deliver an effective gain of 3% in usable torque.
The 3% also translates into increased rpm at a given speed in gear.
Using the above mentioned 110km/hr example,
In reality the 110km/hr cruising rpm of a STD DC2-R with 205/50/15 tyres is 3790rpm
Using a 4.928 final drive, the same cruising speed with same tyre size is achieved at 3903rpm
The math says the increase is only 113rpm - total. (@ 110km/hr)
Crazy? or Common Sense?
+1 for effort lol..Quote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
never hit 5700 rpm on the F3 in 5th and hopefully never do :P
Exedy Leightened Flywheel + HD clutch combo, extractors, ecu and a good intake.. the injen has a "dip" in power at about 4000 rpm for some strange reason..
a shorter final drive or even different gear set (for example , 3/4/5 in a B series setup) will reap much more benefit than any CAI , header or even full tune will give. Period.
The answer is yes & no...
That is some cars respond really well to a set of adjustable cam pulleys.
Others don't & you end up back at the zero.
So to be honest, you won’t know until you try.
Unfortunately on a stock, unopened engine the use of adjustable cam pulleys on standard camshafts can be a bit of a lucky dip.
FWIW, we generally don’t fit adjustable cam pulleys unless the engine has been apart & machined & or aftermarket camshafts are fitted.
When machining & aftermarket cams are combined, it’s nice to have a pair of adjustable cam pulleys so you can optimize your cam timing.
:thumbdwn:i got this setup in my car stock motor with a FD and gearset it does rev up lil quicker but does not as quick as a I/H/E and tune....but yes gearset r good but its just anoying that u need to change gears to quick..specially on the streets... I/H/E and tune = close to the same price as FD+gearset+labour and if u can do both it wil be a really fun track and street car+reliable.