yup, another 1 degree or soQuote:
Originally Posted by jyh888
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yup, another 1 degree or soQuote:
Originally Posted by jyh888
Will coilovers still work in conjuction with the camber bolts?Quote:
Originally Posted by lukits01
And do i need 2 pairs of bolts?? i.e. 2 sets
Got whiteline camber bolts, waiting for my set of coilovers get it to about 2degrees. Id suggest getting your rear alignment checked and adjusted with shims, which I plan to get done as well
only issue now is the wheels look sunk into the arches from the front, so means getting some new wheels with diff offset.
Im looking at ingalls camber bolts 16mm, was told that if i got 2 sets i can achieve -2degrees. What coilovers are you looking into?Quote:
Originally Posted by cjcha4
ordered a set of BC racing, looked at other brands but couldnt afford the prices
depends if they adjust camber with camber tops (in which case 2 pair of bolts will work)Quote:
Originally Posted by jyh888
or if they adjust with offset bolt holes (in which case only 1 pair will work)
I bought 2 sets of these: http://www.ingallseng.com/81280-16mm...olts_pair.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by lukits01
It says to purchase 1 set per wheel, so I assumed I needed both. And hopefully I can achieve -2degrees camber with it
Good news! The ingalls camber bolts that I ordered have allowed me to achieve -2.07 degrees camber, if you are using 2 sets of bolts maximum camber achievable can be + - 4 degrees.
So i will try this setup for now and if later i need a more agressive alignment it can be possible. Toe settings are + 0.2mm each corner on the front and Caster approx + 4 degrees.
This alignment hopefully will give me less understeer and better turn in around corners
Done my oil change using Motul x-cess 8100 5W40 and brake fluid flush and change with Motul RBF600. After changing the brake fluid, the brake pedal is very sensitive now, a lot better than before! I should have much more confidence in the car now, will be off to track next thursday! All set to go, at the moment still need to get my semi slicks mounted onto the wheels
The rear however, being a torsion beam setup I have no adjustability of the alignments but my readout for the standard setup shows:
-1.22 degree camber on the left and -0.52 on the right so overall approx -1degree and toe is little inconsistent with +0.6mm on the left and +3.2mm on the right
Your rear data is nearly the same as mine with the camber L~ -1.18 R~ -0.53
Good luck at the tracks. I was planning to go with you but my car is not ready yet and won't be for a while. Maybe next time. Hope you hit your target lap time.
Don't worry there's always next time! How's the suspension coming along? What's happening to your car?Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoothaz
Yea that is very similar, i think that's how they come as standard. Do you know what your rear toe settings are?Quote:
Originally Posted by cjcha4
Toe L~ +2.1 R~ -0.5, gotta get another alignment check before I send the data off to the UK for an alignment kit.
My sussy is great!! soooo comfortable and the sharp turn-ins are awesome. The car is so responsive now and so fun to drive. i still got heaps to do to my car. LSD, rear shims and alignment, headers and exhaust, RRC inlet manifold and gasket, larger TB and a good tune. lol sounds like im getting ready for a 1/4 mile.Quote:
Originally Posted by jyh888
Those coilovers sound very convincing! Hope i get a ride in it sometime! I think you should install the LSD before you chase any more power, it is definately a huge improvement and I have yet to test it at the track but I personally believe that the extra power will be wasted unless the car is able to transfer it without breaking traction too easily which was the case when I first tracked the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoothaz
Nevertheless, I hope to see a good build from you :) Please keep the updates coming!
Update - Wakefield Park Open Day 2nd Sept
As most of you are aware yesterday was pouring rain! The track was very wet and slippery, so the first few sessions were suicide! I was running semi slicks and you can imagine what happened right?!
It wasn't until the last 2 sessions where the track was starting to dry up, once it did I was able to push the car to a higher limit, all I have to say now is the car has so much grip! With the LSD and semi-slicks the car understeers so little and grips all the way through the corners when you push the throttle! The endless MX72's are awesome! For normal street driving you can't feel such a big difference but on the track, it is unbelievable, the brakes are very consistenly without the need for ABS to kick in.
At the end of the day my PB is 1.18.4, my aim was 1.15 and I know i can definately improve on that - the track was not 100% dry so I was hesitating to push the car harder however from an improvisation view, I shaved off 5 seconds compared to my last PB time. I still need more practice, especially approaching the last corner which is where I particularly lose a lot of time. Hopefully, I can find a nice dry day seeing that spring is here and practise a littler bit more before I do anything else to the car.
Question - my mates STi recently bought new DBA4000 rotors and he is getting brake shudder after the track day, could they possibly be warped?? How can you tell and is it advisable to get them machined or will it affect the heat treatment on the rotor?
Pictures of the day:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5000321_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3967540_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...0_242665_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1322002_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1898056_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4536745_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4983882_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5220990_n.jpg
shame about the weather! last time i went out there the track was wet aswell and didnt get a decent run till it dried up which was towards the end of the day. Glad to see all those mods did you good. Im going to shift performance track day in November if you want to join me.
well doneQuote:
Originally Posted by jyh888
Yea rain on the track especially with semis is suicide! What date is the track day? More details pleaseQuote:
Originally Posted by Smoothaz
I have a problem with my car at the moment - It seems that after a few hard laps, the idle becomes crazy and starts jumping everywhere, making the car start to bunny hop. The exhaust also starts blowing out black smoke. I suspect that possibly the car is running overly rich from the intake, what do you guys think? Any one have similar problems? And does this harm the engine in any way?
Were the rotors brand new just installed when he ran them on the track? Or have they been driven around with for a few thousand km? The DBA4000 needs a few thermal cycles to avoid warping, hence the reason why it has temperature indicator marks on the edge of the rotor. Heat treatment is throughout the disc, so machining it shouuldn't affect it. Get the place to check the runout (amount of warp) before he machines it.Quote:
Originally Posted by jyh888
They were new but he ran them in on the street for about 1000kms at least. After the track day, we took out his old endless CCX pads and found out that they started to crumble and probably had caused grooves in the rotors, hes just recently machined 0.3mm off. Im surprised that DBA rotors can get warped so easily, he must have been braking very hard and late.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Btw anyone, know what I should do with my idling problem? It only happens when the car is driven hard, revs jump from around 1-3k rpm up and down and if i start driving the car it jerks - it has only happened after installing the intake, i was told that black smoke means the car is running rich, but I would have through that by installing a CAI, i would be having more air hence a leaner AFR? Will running a piggyback ECU ovveride this issue??
Hey mate your car looks really good with the volks. The 17's actually suit it very well.
Your intake is probably making your car run rich. You need to purchase something like flash pro to adjust the AFR. Our FN2's do not take well to modifications like the other k20 models. induction kits seem to loose power unless you have them mapped to suit mods.
Have you looked into coilovers yet. I was thinkin about BC racing BR coils. They seem to get a very good review and are at an affordable price.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jyh888
THE EXACT SAME THING HAPPEN TO ME.
went around the track, after i hopped off the 2nd time (probably after 6 hard laps in total) i went around, idling was up n down between 500rpm - 2,500rpm and A SH!T load of black smoke puffing away like a chimney. i noticed if you let the car sit for a while it will go away but once you hit the track again it'll start puffing again. Then let it sit and when you go home its back to normal again. I've also noticed that it struggles when it gets really hot (eg 40 deg summer day) but it doesn't spit out as much black smoke as the time at the track. :eek:
Bitch of a thing is to get the car moving while its like that you have to ride the clutch a bit just to get it starting and when your trying to move the car to line up it bunny hops like someone's on L plates !:thumbdwn:
the solution mentioned earlier is to get a flashpro, from research i've conducted running a little rich is fine but i explained what happen to a mechanic friend he advised that should probably take it easy, just incase ahah so i won't be going again until i get flashpro tuned up
1 question though, when ur driving day to day do you have any burpling when you let the throttle go or when ur downshifting ?:confused::confused::confused:
Yes the injen makes the car run really rich. Same thing happened to me when I gave the car a good thrashing for about 5 minutes. Similar to running on 3 cylinders lol. Shift track day at wakefield Monday 22nd November. Contact them for a spot.
Yea I think i've come to the conclusion that the car is running rich - do you know if there is a standard map on the flashpro that will help? I can't really justify paying for a full tune with just an intake...but im not sure if it actually causes a loss in power...it definately does pull harder at the higher rev range but then again it could be just the induction sound lol. Have you got an intake fitted with flashpro or similar?Quote:
Originally Posted by Smurf_FN2
Yea the 18s weighed too much, 17s are lighter and tyres are cheaper too
I think the stock suspension handles very well, so I am not yet changing it
Im glad you posted this! I thought i was the only one with this problem...it seems like our cars are very sensitive to air flow changes, are you going to get a full tune? You also have headers and catback exhaust? Please let me know how it goes after the tune, im also very interested in the results and dyno chart please!Quote:
Originally Posted by br3nny
Burpling? Nope not that I am aware of....but the engine does sound a little odd during start up, idle sounds very rough and not as smooth
I guess we all on the same boat! Hmm, ill try to make that track day, are you from sydney?Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoothaz
yes i am from sydney. If your interested in modding your car, drop me a pm causes im importing some stuff for the k20 motor, i also can get brakes and sussy for a good price.Quote:
Originally Posted by jyh888
I've just got a catback exhaust and the injen intake (v1), initially i will go with the tune that is provided based on the parts i have he said he can tune it without the car needing to be on the dyno but he said it won't be perfect but pertty close. At a first glance its quite expensive to get tuning done here in perth so i've still got to look around a little bit and see what else is available. based on how i feel with the initial uploaded map i'll go from there to see if i need to do a dyno tune. i should know by the end of september if i'm getting flashpro or notQuote:
Originally Posted by jyh888
i got both installed at the same time but becuase the car is running rich...just driving around normally i've got a light burple and soft pops as i downshift or let go of the throttle, when slowing down at a traffic light in 2nd around 1,000rpm it burples quite a bit. considering that (and after installing the raizin unit) i'm quite surprised that fuel economy is sitting at 8.6L/100km atm with a bit of spirited driving hahah
From my research, I found that all intakes fitted on the FN2R will produce a very rich AFR, even the base map on flashpro (group N) is fairly rich but with its convenient live datalogger it should be fairly easy to tune the AFR. If you intend to mod your car definately get flashpro, ive heard great reviews about it. For now, im going to revert back to stock airbox before i have enough funds to change manifold and catback and pay for a full tune.Quote:
Originally Posted by br3nny
8.6L is very efficient! Mine sits anywhere from 9-11L/100km depending on how I drive.
Anyway, if you do go ahead with flashpro, please keep me updated on the progress and results!
I thought about buyin an intake but I decided to just get a K&N panel filter for the mean while. Ive just bought a set of 18" re30 volks supposed to be very light so should help with some of the weight. I had my car at weight bridge the other night and totally standard it is 1315kg. That is seriously heavy.Quote:
Originally Posted by jyh888
Think im going to get a set of abp eibach springs and lower it 35mm and also setup the front camber and toe to help with understeer.
Think after that I will get flashpro and maybe get etune. Guy civicrsa is doing it on other forums. You send him your datalogs and he sends you a map. He gets great reviews.
If your doing track days you should look into a light bucket seat and strip out them heavy seats.
thats good to hear..i'm planning on getting it through joel at drivencrazy and he said he can upload a map for me based on what i have (just need to pull the intake apart to measure the diameter of where the MAF sensor is)Quote:
Originally Posted by Smurf_FN2
FYI if you have any places with hills or high kerbs i'd look twice at getting the 35mm eibach ones...i only JUST clear mine by a hairline otherwise be in for a few scrapes here n there
The driven crazy intake sounds very promising, i am going to singapore on friday so i will be speaking to joel about this issue! Hopefully he can give me some solutions, it seems that with the intake running stock map the car gains 10hp.Quote:
Originally Posted by br3nny
If anyone is interested, possibly i could do a group buy and save on shipping costs
:thumbsup: I'd be interested in the group buy if that includes the scoop and filter
might be interested as well depend on the price
Well DONE JYH! excellent work mate shaving 5 seconds, but i thought your PB was 1:20 for the first time? but yeah man your car was so fun to drive, I was astonished at how poised it was in corners. For those who don't know the STi that Jyh has mentioned is mine, I had done maybe 1300km on the rotors bedded them in doing hard stops 80km/h to 20km/h. I think the mistake was actually running the old pads which obviously had gone past there heat range hence the crumbling. But yeah for all those who want to upgrade the brakes on a DC5R or FN2R dixcel rotors and endless MX72 pads are a must for these cars as the braking confidence is just fantastic
I can supply the scoop'in, pod filter kit and flashpro from driven.
Let me know how low you can go with the price and I'll see if I can beat it.
Good stuff getting out there with the FN2R mate,
I went down to wakefield with my mates and drove his fn2r for a session to see what it's like. His car was bone stock with 20000km old RE050s but I must admit it was quite fun to drive. Very predictable through corners. The short gearing is awesome around the track. I think your best upgrade would be front brakes though, whether it be rotors/pads or an overhaul has I had to brake extremely early, especially at turn 2, fishhook and turn 12 coming onto the straight. I clocked 1.16.5 in it so keep driving mate, plenty in the car.