Yeah i've had three hours sleep lol
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Yeah i've had three hours sleep lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0aTvVuXxH4
listen on 3:05
OMG. I am going to import an NSX hopefully sometime soon :)
nice read - from start to end page - I am also building my Euro at the moment, but a dilemma of selling it and buying a DC5R,
After reading this thread realized that more than 65% of people don't believe that CL9 will be fast/track weapon and who ever
will mod one needs to have a lot of $$$$$$
dc5r is a good base to start with...
first speedo will work correctly no matter what u do with the gears
hondata kpro is pnp
throttle cable...
lighter.....
lot of aftermarket parts....
but the steering arm/suspension geometry is hard to correct if lowering your car.... u can try tie rods, inverted tie rods etc.. but not easy to get right...... also the engine mounts are kinda weak so you need to beef them up to protect your header etc etc....... then maybe it starts to get uncomfortable with vibrations....... lol
yeh im in the dilemma of selling or keeping my cl9 - well I started modding it with handling good and e/h, now in the list is drive-train and ecu
well see which one comes first, if the DC5 i wanted get sold before selling my car, im keeping my cl9 then
From what I heard dc5r suspension is a bitch to get right, in comparison cl9's full indie suspension is much easier to deal with.
Having said that it is a lighter vehicle...
This is only if you go with extreme configurations. Just slap on coilovers on a DC5R at stock height or down to 1.5" lowered and it will run rings around a CL9 with coilovers. It is the sad truth. :(
Even a DC2R pulls away easily on track: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlBnevchfGg
Well I have my dc5r time to beat.... See what this cl9 can do in terms of laptime...
LSD installed....
CL9...
Car weighs 1320kg with 3/4 tank of fuel....... No driver...
Full interior as well btw...
My dc5r with 1/2 tank n full interior was 1140kg....
New bonnet our bonnet weighs a tonne I reckon
bonnet should save 7kg...
actually just remove all body parts they are all heavy and seats who needs them anyway euro a family car pfft lol
Driver and passenger seats are recaro spg already...
how did u get it insured or is it not insured?
It's illegal not to have insurance for a road car. Just Car Insurance offer a great plan for people with modded cars: Unlimited legal mods
Touche. But what's not noticeable and no one knows about: no one will get hurt
Above posts seem to not quite get the point here.
Williams car is a track car,
If I'm not mistaken, all insurance is void the moment any vehicle rolls onto any kind of race track. Be it the 1320ft or circuit racing. You sign a waver when you sign up.
Only regulations he has to comply with in this catergory is the motorsport class he races in.
The unlimited insurance policies are great too, I have another car with has barely seen daylight in 3 years (because it's rare and worth good $$$). It's fully insured on a very flexible plan. Great piece of mind for anyone.
Car totalled goes to a breakers you don't get it back no time to pull out seats... screwed how would dc5r seats go in relation to plugging in the airbag cables
dc5r seats have airbags? fn2r seats should be fine since they have airbags in them
FN2R seats are fine, I have a set for my CL9 already fitted out with euro electric rails and heaters.
No airbag lights.
As said before, waiting on $$ + motivation to get them done in leather before i fit them full time.
Plugs exactly the same ?
And audm dc5r has them
Audm dc5r has airbags in seats? No....
Audm dc5s has air bags in seats? Think so?
from what google has told me so far, even the dc5s does not have seats with airbags
Yer I read it wrong its fn2r
DC5S/DC5R AUD/JDM = no airbag's
FN2R seats required a simple re-pinning
You lucky man!
I got the kpro too in my cl9 though car hasn't been running since August last year. :(
I previously had emanage ultimate, but with the supercharger, it couldn't eliminate signals going to the knock sensor.
Then I decided to get the kpro and the harness from Joel since end of last year, then got it fitted in April.
Can I ask are you still running DBW?
With my set up I cannot run DBW as it will be too complicated as once the ecu sees boost, it will send signals too stock ecu which is controlling the TB. I got skunk2 74mm TB sitting in the engine bay and cable already just waiting for the adaptor plate to come back from the machine shop. Joel did a great job on the harness. However it would have been better if it came in proper sleeves not some lose wires IMO.
U mean make it add a sleeve to wrap all the cables up like the k-tuned one?
Still running DBW for now but will change to cable later...
Who is going to mod ur harness for cable throttle? Joel I assume?
Tell Joel about the dbw issue? I'm sure he has done euro s/c in singapore before with dbw?
Yeah sleeved wrap would look cleaner. Ray from ART Melbourne has already altered like 3-4 cables from the harness to make it able to run cable TB. What I understand is the stock ECU won't have anything to do with the motor anymore. It only controls a/c, and other accessories. I asked him about it but I think mostly in Singapore supercharged accord euro's are cl7's.
i heard this car just ran some blistering lap times around barbagallo raceway...
Some say....it was even on the long track
Kitbkk -- you have pm.
track fn2r cant catch this red euro on uphills at barbs, and just 0.5secs off track fn2r with semis *note Xmas theme euro running street tyres and tein superstreet coils*
DOHC!
omg! for about $1300 you can get BC (not buddyclub) coilovers delivered to your door! why bother with tein???
BC= Best Cornering
lmao a bit off topic guys :P but so you guys would go BC over buddy club?
My mate has bc in his evo and he loves them
Bon chan coilovers? Serious?
BC is good - I have them with my Euro before - exccellent coils for $$$$$ with 12 months warranty
I thought it meant Boh Chap. :p
I'd seriously take Tein over BC. Eventhough Tein is not good compared to proper racing coilovers.
BC coilovers after going through an uneven surface (as descibed by the owner). Seriously, the rim should dent or buckle before the coilovers break, not the other way round.
http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/z...rs/photo-3.jpg
BC should be similar to D2. And when you push D2 on the track in a race car, you get this:
http://jamalb.net/gallery/d/6319-1/broken+D2.jpg
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/1...aron060ys8.jpg
my mate has BC in his civic... it's pretty sh1t. wait... did i say "pretty"? I meant REALLLLYYY...
but hey its cheap and can go really low... so it must be good.
cos dumped cars are t3h s3x... and makes a car handle awesome.
lol COX!
in most cases i read somewhere on heeltoe auto where they have a fantastic build thread on their cl9, most of the coilover suspension kits offered on the market arent adequate enough for the track. but for street they are superb! my friend has bc's in his euro and they provide actually a pretty good ride and speed in corners has greatly improved.
can someone tell me if im wrong or right?
Correct, pure racing suspension will cost well over $2k, and you'll likely want chassis reinforcements ontop of that...
Wrong... pure racing suspension? What's a pure racing suspension? Suspension that can't be used on the street???
Suspension is suspension. Whether you use it for racing or not, it's still suspension.
There's only good suspension or bad suspension. Nothing else.
There's too much emphasis on lowering the car to make it look good. People just want to dump it so it looks fulli sik, t3h s3x and omg thats ultra low bro! ur a mad ki3nt, etc etc.
This is where the target market for cheap coilovers are. Look at the photos above and see what cheap coilovers are like. You might be lucky and never have anything like that happen to you, but I'm sure you wouldn't want to be in the car when it does happen.
Sure "you can get BC coilovers (not Buddy Club) delivered to your door for $1300", but is that really $1300 of your money well spent? I'd rather get a set of koni yellows and springs instead of that fulli sik coilovers which go reallllly mad low brah.
I understand what you mean mate, but good or bad suspension depends on the environment or situation it's used in.
And it's a personal preference of soft vs hard as well.
I can see why you think BC is not money well spent for lowering. But on the other hand, the majority of Coilovers sold don't drop more than 1.5inch, which is not a whole lot if you think about it,and not for a whole lot more than shock/springs combo cost wise. I know there's idiots around but they arent the majority .
By "pure racing" I meant competition products like this, with infinite adjust ability
http://www.exe-tc.co.uk/circuit/technical
or this
http://www.balancemotorsport.co.uk/m...g%20Suspension
bad suspension would be... BC (not Buddy Club)... The environment or situation would be anywhere the vehicle is moving...
good or bad is absolute, are BC's good? no, not at all, not by a long shot, a really long shot.
why would you need to drop more than 1.5"? That's a massive drop. How does the car handle after such a massive drop?!?!?!
not only is it super danger, it will probably make your car handle like poop.
oh and I know what you mean by racing coilovers, pure overkill if you just drive to coles and back.
but they'd do such an excellent excellent job when you drive down to the shops.
and those ones you listed, you wont get the whole set for $2k. you'll get 1 corner.
+1000 on that,
I used to have Tanabe GF (8k/4k) when car was a daily, but they started to fail.
Replaced them with Spoon full-spec damper (12k/8k) and cannot even begin to compare them.
You get what you pay for.
FYI regarding full race suspension, My brother in law's wrx suspension (coilover's only) cost him $13k .
Bargain! Was it reigers or proflex?
I saw these reigers for sale at 15000 euros. Holy smoke...
R u using the spoon coilovers for the euro Simon?
the z-tune r34 supposedly uses $20k worth of sachs coils
I'll put it this way to get people thinking, say these cheapie coilover cost $1300
take away shipping and profit margins you get maybe a $1000 coilover? so thats $250 per corner
breakdown all the exterior stuff and how much that would probably cost
a really good spring cost about $100, but I seriously doubt these would be good springs, so say the springs cost $50
that leaves $200 for the actual shock,
shiny anodized tops with spherical bearing say $75
anodized spring seats and locks $25
mounting brackets and machining a threaded shock body $25
so you're left with $75 per shock for "precision" engineered pistons, fluid, valves, & adjusters
in contrast a Koni Shock absorber for $250 what's spent on the exterior? simple non threaded steel shock body
no spring or spring seats, or shiny tops, hell, you even have to insert it to your own mounting brackets!
wouldn't you prefer all that money be spent on the internals where it counts?
I know what I'd buy if I needed suspension on a budget.
and I get to proudly wear this sticker:
http://www.koni.com/typo3temp/pics/e4799e1f3a.jpg
PRICELESS!
Unfortunately.. and it's a very sad (and dangerous) fact... a lot of people don't have a clue when it comes to properly modifying suspension systems.. hardly anyone thinks of what they are doing to the other components of the car.. it's not called a "system" for nothing..
As long as it can lower the car until it's scraping on its oil pan, it's awesome...
oh and sen, you wish you can display that sticker... this one is good enough for you.
http://www.kw-suspensions.eu/images/...n_image_02.jpg