They aren't that bad - i drove around on Mickey Thompson E/T Streets for 3 months in a big hp rwd, they still have quite a lot of grip. When they go - they go though...
Worst thing with semis is the pick up - throws shit all over your car...
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They aren't that bad - i drove around on Mickey Thompson E/T Streets for 3 months in a big hp rwd, they still have quite a lot of grip. When they go - they go though...
Worst thing with semis is the pick up - throws shit all over your car...
Not really I went to have them fitted and drove back on them, they actually grip in the wet. Didnt test it out though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
Hmm didnt know that, one thing I noticed is the whine and how it just gets louder the faster you go.Quote:
Originally Posted by senna
Yeah, noise is louder because of the giant contact patch on the road.
They are for race use, not comfy street touring remember!
Yeah, I discovered that going over some bumps and stuff and feeling the massive jolts compared to any street tyre.Quote:
Originally Posted by senna
i thought mine was bad.
keen to see how semis feels.
might snap a vertebrae
Yeah I went over a bump that should have been nothing with normal tyres and I felt I slammed into some massive pothole or something really freaked me outQuote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
If the tyres are the only thing you've changed i'd say the RE55s has a really stiff sidewall which is common to race spec tyres - stops them folding over while under load
Makes sense, as I havent done anything apart from fitting the tyres to the wheelsQuote:
Originally Posted by senna
i googled spaniards and it says that it means spanish people.
are you spanish? need more pics!
Yeah I have a spanish background. This is my first build thread so its not so good but I will try to post up more pictures once more work starts getting done to the car and more parts roll inQuote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
cool work man.
re: toe adjustment. You may be able to get away with retaining OEM tie rod ends if you dont go super low.
Super low EPs are death! lol lots of work and broken shit. Lower it moderately and ull be sweet :)
whats considered super low?Quote:
Originally Posted by egSi
i can jsut shove the tip of my finger in the front gap and between 1-2 finger gap at the back
Thanks man, I dont think I will go super low possibly occasionally for street and looks but I will be getting some goods to correct toe and keep the tie rods closer to stock angles.Quote:
Originally Posted by egSi
Because race car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
Ahhhhaaa!!! Gold!Quote:
Originally Posted by aRze
dude, not sure if u know but the N+ was designed specifically to keep the arms at closer to stock angles.
no need to really go and get anything extra until at least u have fitted them and am happy with the height.
I have N+ moderately lowered and the arms are almost level :)
other coilovers dont account for this do affect the arm angle.
N+ = the shit
When you say N+ do you mean the Race spec coils?Quote:
Originally Posted by egSi
no i mean N+ spec but Race Spec Damber ALSO has the lower mount for the tie rod ends :)
Ah this is something I did not know, although as I am having all this done I feel better doing it right first time. I actually have already ordered a custom steering bracket for this to avoid any of these issues regardless.Quote:
Originally Posted by egSi
lol sell it man, unless ur running nut scraper spec low, you wont need it. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
lol I like low but not that low. I was thinking that if I dont need it I will of course sell it. I'll see how the angles are and go from there.Quote:
Originally Posted by egSi
I actually am frothing to get the coils in but I am still waiting on the tie rods to arrive along with bushings and camber arms before I can go ahead, hopefully done within the next week or two.
sick man :)
Got some more parts in today and yesterday.
Whiteline rear swaybar
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/...613_194912.jpg
Custom steering bracket.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/...613_194953.jpg
Wether that will be used or not is yet to be determined
J's racing spl tie rods.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/...613_195345.jpg
Also got those replica Mugen pedals fitted on Monday. The grip on the pedal face is awesome, quite happy with them @$30. Issue was that without putting some sort of padding in behind the pedal it can jiggle a little. Fixed that with a bit of foam behind it and its is quite snug and doesnt move at all.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/...612_191608.jpg
Hmm.. correct me if I'm wrong, but for minimal/zero bump steer, you want the tie rod perpendicular to the strut angle.Quote:
Originally Posted by egSi
I also run the BC N+ coil overs and use to run them with inverted tie rod ends because I wanted them as "flat" as possible. With the inverted ends they were flat, really flat. However bump steer was terrible. You can see the toe change as you jack up the car - the wheels start toeing out.
Keeping with the same height, I now run them with OEM tie rod ends. As the N+ coil overs do not have adjustable camber tops, the strut angle remains static. The tie rod is pretty much perpendicular to the strut angle. There is no noticeable bump steer and the toe remains pretty static when jacking up the car.
Hey the whiteline sway bar is thicker then the oem one isnt it?
Yep, 24mm :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyy168
Worthwhile upgrade if you prefer less understeer/more oversteer.
almost did a hectic spin out the other day
thought it was because racecar
turned out there was a screwdirver tip in my rear wheel
Some new parts arrived yesterday and today! :D
GruppeM Intake
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/...620_205736.jpg
Some Tegiwa parts
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/...620_205824.jpg
Energy suspension bushing kit, thanks to RPS13 for info on where to purchase!
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/...620_205722.jpg
From left to right, Front sway bar bushing, Rear swaybar bushing (only 15mm???) and the difference between that and the whiteline swaybar bushing.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/...620_210412.jpg
The Energy stuff is really firm compared to the whiteline bushing, I just wish the energy bushings included one big enough for the whiteline swaybaras the energy rear is way too small to fit.
Also got my hardrace rear camber arms the other day. Just waiting on Buddyclub to swap over my front strut bottoms as they came with the paint all flaking off and surface rust WTF!!!. Pretty dissapointed that they let it leave like that.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/...613_192900.jpg
true baller!
awesome gear man.
you'll like the brake stopper, put mine in recently, brake pedal feels much firmer :D
Thanks man :D Yeah I'm looking forward to get the GruppeM and the brake stopper in this weekend and then the following parts in over the next week or twoQuote:
Originally Posted by aRze
the first time you turn on your car after the gruppe m is installed is jizz. :) your first drive will be even more jizz. :) make sure u hit at least 4000rpm in first. hehe.
I sure will man, I think I will slide a sock on before I take it for a drive :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyy168
Im guessing you're installing the bushings once you get the Buddy Clubs back.
I'm not sure what how the front LCA bushings were designed, but I would recommend using PCI spherical bushings for your front LCA.
They are a bit offset from stock so you actually gain a bit more castor (which our cars lack) with them.
A few guys over on clubitr I know run them.
More castor = better self-centering and more camber under cornering conditions :)
Though they will set you back around $265 without delivery.
Just in case you hadn't heard of it =D
nice shit, get it on man :)
Cheers man. Anyone know of where I can find english installation instructions, or more precisely assembly instructions?
Yeah nice assortment of gear :thumbsup:
I think there might be some in here: http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/sh...efore-posting!
I can't view any pics at work, so can't confirm if there is, sorry.
Yeah I did check that out but the GruppeM instructions a pretty cryptic. It was more to double check stuff or see if there is a guide to follow for any type of things to look out for, like where to put extra double sided tape etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Ahh I see. I don't think there is any DIY's in that sense. Not that I've come across.
It's pretty simply anyway. Just dummy fit the whole kit. Line it all up to where it sits the best. Then put double sided tape on all the areas you feel it touches, or might touch. Also check the clearence between the edge of the scoop and the edge of the bonnet, and also the area to the right and left of the intake, near where the Gruppe M tab is stuck on. The corner on the right touched the underside of my bonnet and I had to massage the bonnet a little with a mallet. Check the clearence to the throttle cable and strut brace (if you decide to run one). Mine came with a bit of padded foam stuck on the underside, to minimise rubbing of the cable.
The scuttle panel 'cowl' supplied, i just stuck double sided tape all round. On any edges that touched the window and body of the car.
Yeah it was all pretty simple and straight forward to do but it never hurts to check it out first. What did people do with the weather strip? I fed mine behind the intake and left the last 20cm or so just flopped off in the bay. I guess Ill tape it down, or is that what I am supposed to do? Run some double sided tape behind it and stick it to the scuttle? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
I ended up doing it today in about an hour as I was taking my time in trying to adjust it all. Is it supposed to hang in the air basically?
I am disappointed though in the scuttle quality, would have felt much better if it had a perfect fit. I have to press down on the cowling to open the hood with no issues. I still need to have a drive in it though, was too beat after doing it that I went inside and passed out on the couch.
Hey mate. Been reading up on your thread. How's the gruppe m? I'm thinking of getting the same intake. Does the car feel more responsive?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
yeah i have to do that too when i open up my hood! and i have to tell the mechanics to do the same thing too when i get my car service. kinda annoying!!
but the Gruppe M is worth it. well imo
i find that the car is a bit more responsive.... i find it better in response if your driving in a like 4/5th gear between 3-4k rpm and you just decide to give it a little...Quote:
Originally Posted by bluey45
sounds awesome too!! :D
You won't feel too much difference until you tune it
ill start doing that one day... when i have money! :(Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
so right now... i can only dream about tuning my car :/
What's a good place for a tune?
You would need to purchase a hondata kpro first right?
any tuneable ecu will be ok, I can recommend someone but he does road tunes rather than on the dyno.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluey45
Doesn't BYP do dyno tunes
Power tune is another one
so whats the difference between dyno/power/ and road tune?
??
I did notice a tiny little increase in response but its not really much at all and as someone said without a tune it wont make much difference. Although when vtec kicks in its way more pronounced and you do feel a difference there as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluey45
Yeah prob road tune would what I be looking at as more of a street/weekend car. Probably looking at about $3k all up for tune and ecu? Or am I over estimating?Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
You would look at about $1400 for a kpro and $800-$1000 for a dyno tune. I would say dyno tuning is the way to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluey45
Cheers mate. Cost quite a lot of $$Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
jdm yard is offering kpro with tune now. ask yonas for quote if you're keen
Just took some pics of some of the installed goods today.
GruppeM Intake with Tegiwa silicone hose.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/...627_154728.jpg
Tegiwa BMC stopper.
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/...627_154739.jpg
Hectic, judging from your pics the gruppem should clear my strut braceQuote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
What strut brace will you be running?
Js racing. It's on already, since the day I bought the ep3. Just heard here and there that gruppeM don't clear certain struts bars so I was leaning toward a Mugen intake. But your photos give me hope lol.
J's racing bar clears the gruppeM with ease
That gruppe m looks awesome. I can't wait to get mine. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
yeah the J's racing strut brace clears the gruppe M with ease!Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
and also, im still using the OEM induction hose with the gruppe M.
is it best to change to a silicon one?
coz friend is telling me that the OEM one will eventually crack?
your friend is correct sirQuote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
Looks nice man, what with the strip of rubber on the right, behind the strut tower. That needs to go somewhere?
lol^ are you ****ing serious?Quote:
Originally Posted by iQQ
yes..? itll eventually split. what seems to be the problem? and the replacement scuttle panel gruppe M provides you doesnt have anywhere to attach the weather rubber strip to. Hence the picture.Quote:
Originally Posted by egSi
Yeah thats the weather strip under the bonnet. With the oem panel it has a lip to fit it to the plastic. The gruppeM replacement scuttle panel doesnt have that grove to hold it in place. I need to double sided tape it downQuote:
Originally Posted by egSi
Pics of an OEM intake hose with a split in it or GTFO.Quote:
Originally Posted by iQQ
I'm also certain the OEM one will split too with the GruppeM thats why I changed it straight up.Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
I'm keen to know what makes it split? Obviously the Gruppe M is a different size on the pipe to the stock intake, or it moves around alot?
Still bewildered that an intake that costs up to $1k and sometimes more requires so many other mods and replacement pipes etc. No doubt it looks great and performs well, but thats some expensive shit.
Its probably that it moves around alot. Im not sure about the intake sizes if they are different. But yeah for the money it does have its drawbacks and could be alot better for the price, although the performance gains are well worth it.
not all the gruppe m intakes are the same. they're hand made so sometimes you may or may not have fitment issues. on top of that, the reason why it splits is cause of restriction of movement. you have your box being held down by your bonnet and when you change gears your whole engine moves - it makes sense for it to crack if anyone can picture what im trying to explain lol
would solid engine mounts help this problem?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyy168
your engine moves regardless when you change gears. you can get solid engine mounts and an engine torque damper but itll still move. specially when u hit vtec!
my engine only shakes when i give it a good telling off for having no torque. otherwise it doesnt dare move a muscle for fear of me showing it what real muscle is.
lol i agree wih JC.Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
you get what you pay for :)Quote:
Originally Posted by egSi
very true... because i had 1k for gruppe M, not a silicon hose!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyy168
Injen CAI better bang for buck IMO
Yeah, OEM intake hose eventually splits. Mine even split back with my OEM airbox, don't know how that happened?Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
Judging from where the crack was and fracture pattern, it may have been due to engine movement and vibrations because there was a point in time where I had to drive with broken engine mounts while I waited for my order to arrive. :(
Didn't know it was broken until a few months after so that's just a theory.
Here it is:
http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/...6/IMG_0575.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by CivicTypeR
oh wow!!
what happens if it cracks??
car is still drivable right?
It will suck unfiltered air.Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
Also today noticed that the clunk from the steering rack has returned same as everyone else's . I had my rack regreased about 3 months ago and 2000km seems way too soon to need another regreasing.