u installed anyway
tune wont add more rice =)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BusterSonic12
Printable View
u installed anyway
tune wont add more rice =)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BusterSonic12
sound more rice ^^
Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeG
FINALLY got my Apex'i SAFC NEO install + tuned by IS Motor Racing :D
mods i got installed on my euro are HKS exhaust + comptech intake. other than that all dead stock.
also keep in mind this is only a AUTO so should be much weaker than a manual i guess :P
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/6...nosmallrr4.jpg
Hey bustersonic- do you have a base line graph you can post up?
what vtec point is that?
power curve seems interesting but i don't know what a standard auto graph should look like
So the people at IS Motor Racing confirmed to you that they managed to get the NEO tuned for the K series engine?
Good output BTW for an Auto!! :D :D
112kW at the wheels on a dyno dynamics is good, especially for an auto with only I/E.
ya i guess works with k series :thumbsup:
sorry don't think a basic line graph, but to what i remember is that just before the oem setting vtec there's a major drop in kw. the vtec point now is 5400, so the drop's gone. u can see there's one pixel at the 5400 which is down a bit, that's the drop, it has been minimize to the max LOL
EuroAccord13: when's your vtec point? and how much kw now?
hard to see how good it is without b4 and after figure
anyone know the kw for a non modded euro? AT
Doesn't work like that if you want an accurate indication of improvement.. Just ring up IS Motor tomorrow and ask them to send you the base line graph.Quote:
Originally Posted by BusterSonic12
Quote:
Originally Posted by BusterSonic12
Mine is currently set at 5500RPM with close-out at 5200RPM... 126Kws at this point of time....
Everycar is different and the same car with the same mods may utilise different engagement points in the controller, your one may be 5400 and another guy with the same car and mods as yours may be engaging it at 5700rpm...
The main thing is how does your car go now with the controller?Much dif?Where do you notice the dif.low,mid,high?
mainly the mid area, but i believe i could of got more kw shown if i used v power 98... lol cos yesterday ran out of fuel and used vpower racing 100 for the first time... reckon can get more from 98
why get more from 98??????Quote:
Originally Posted by BusterSonic12
V power racing has some ethanol in it. Ethanol produces less energy per volume. But you can take advantage of the higher octane rating to increase the compression or advance ignition timing to gain more power there. But for an engine with stock timing and just a fuel controller, 98 with zero ethanol should produce more power than 100 with 5% ethanol.
Here's Mugen88's dyno for comparison with the SAFC Neo and similar mods
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/6343/mugendynotj1.jpg
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57315
shit... 128.8kw.. omg. that's crazy, and only a ebay header.
makin' me wanna get a aftermarket header now + the pulleys. but does pulleys actually affect your kw output, because i thought it's good because it is light.
Are the dynos even the same brand?. He has pulleys and his is a manual as well. Bustersonic's is an auto. More drivetrain loss there.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
MUGEN88 got basically almost the same mods as me but he has pulleys as well, the NEO is not even fully tuned...
My dyno is here;
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56958
Just wondering, how much was spent to get that 8kw increase? (or 5~6kw increase thru out the rev?
Aint the air temp going to effect the powerout put? thats like 6-7deg diff between the base and final?
Any torque curves?
sorry to revive the thread.. and i did a search but didnt really find what i was after...
Vafc/vafc2 is there a didfference and which would be better for my euro?
which comes to my main question... i have an 03 man euro with cai only, if i install a vafc/2, would it be worth it? and how much more fuel efficient will it be? and if its ok if i adjust the vtec cut in point earlier say 5000-5500rpm and still runn if safe without blowing my motor??
some feedback/info be great thanks guys!! =D
NOT WORTH YOUR MONEY PLUS TIME with just an intake... mayb come back to this topic after u get some decent exhaust n header n intake.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dru42
Don't flame me, but how come no ones actually getting the advertised 140kw @ 6xxx rpm or whatever? false advertising? or is it something to the effect of "advertised 140kw, ~100kw effective"?
that's KW at the fly. the dyno we have are showing the KW @ the wheel, so the power u putting into the rubber onto the groundQuote:
Originally Posted by cupnoodle
ahh thanks for the clarification.Quote:
Originally Posted by BusterSonic12
I'd suggest not to get VAFC/VAFC2 as the ECU will re-learn and override your VAFC/VAFC2 settings.
Oh ok, is there other vtec controllers out there that wont overide by the stock ecu? or is it always gonna relearn untill i get an after market ecu? how about a piggyback? or is that the same as a vafc/2??
I would not lower the vtec point with just an intake. Honda tuned vtec to kick in at the optimal moment, with just an intake i dont think there is much reason to change it unless you decide to do more extreme tuning.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dru42
lowering vtec wont make you loose power... you just may not gain anything and you will loose fuel economy...
vafcII is basically a piggy back unit, all piggy back ecu's and controllers interupt the signal from an engine sensor and then send a slightly different signal to the stock ecu, this will make the car run differently :D its basically the same princible as those resistors u put inline on ur commobore intake temp sensor so the engine runs as if its cold and you get more power, except it goes a lil bit more complex than that...
as others have said (i can confirm from personnel experience) the honda ecu is very quick learner... only took 2days from my rbc swap for the ecu to completely re-map its idle and running setings... not sure how the whole vafc re-learning goes, but the settings probably wouldnt stay all to long :(
Your best bet is doing a reflash. If you want, read up on the J-Tune reflash, and decide if you want it or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dru42