I tried SSS and they are better than stock. Did you bleed your brake lines and also, did you press the pedal down hard enough? Stock pads give almost no initial bite after 3-4 laps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Suntzu
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I tried SSS and they are better than stock. Did you bleed your brake lines and also, did you press the pedal down hard enough? Stock pads give almost no initial bite after 3-4 laps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Suntzu
Which project mu pads did you try before?Quote:
Originally Posted by EK Civic R
I used the BSpec pads and SCR Pure Plus 6 discs.
But this was on my old EG...
Together with the disc and pad combo they were alright..
Looking for some discs for my euro, but not too sure what to get..
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1.../ProjectMu.jpg
Pic of my brake setup on EG
My Euro is 4.5 years old with 108000km on clock, still on stock pads and discs. Approx. 60% of my travel is on highway.
I have been waiting to hear from service department the need of pad replacement since 60000km service. but those humble stock pads still going strong.
I guess my car being a manual car, doesn't rely that much on brake alone during stopping.
I'm also using Delphi for my fronts and I agree with that statement. Much better than stock pads.Quote:
Originally Posted by tony1234
That and you don't use the brakes much on the freeway.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNR888
Good to get a 2nd.opinion.:thumbsup:.Not sure what type of pad to get for the rears when i need them,any suggestions anyone?Quote:
Originally Posted by badthing
anyone got any suggestion where i can get delphi pads again? I can't seems to find it anywhere -.-
If possible can quote me price as well please?
I got mine from IS Motorracing in Rockdale, Sydney.Quote:
Originally Posted by zaqmlp
hi guys, am running now hawk performance (HPS) pads from tsxparts.com, need to run my rotors and pads in to tell you how they are.
how much were your delphi pads?
Follow the hawk hard running-in instructions on the box. They make a difference. Don't baby the pads during running-in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
couple of times i've hard braked but not enough yet as very hard to do it during driving to work and all. I've done about 5 of 80-60 and about 3 60-40 but not enough yet....
Yeah, it does take a lot of effort to run those pads in, but once you do, the difference is like night and day. I ran mine in after 3 months of driving gently.... I thought biting force was shit, until I did the hard running in and now it bites very very well!Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
atm the feel is almost the same as stock still a bit off though but with less squeeking.
leaving stains on my rotors too duno whether its cause i need to change fluid or just the pads themselves.
Brake fluid doesn't leave stains because they stay in the caliper and brake line. If they don't, then you will notice it. Stains don't matter. Your rotors rust if you park in the rain anyway. lol. As long as they are not gooved or warped.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
nah not grooved or warp just that the pads a ferro carbon hawk ones thats why they pocka dotted my rotors, since both need wearing in.
bit off topic so what do you do aaron still study? work in a workshop?
Oooh, your pads are too aggressive for your rotors then. Consider some harder rotors like Racingbrake's UP rotors or DBA's 4000 series.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
Nope, finished studying, had enough of that. I'm working now, but not in a workshop. I love to learn and DIY, which is why I'm mostly in the tech sections. I've stuffed up many times as well, so live and learn. Worst was when I messed up a brake pad change which required the caliper to be rebuilt. LOL
It's come to the time that I need to replace my pads, was considering some Hawks, Endless SSY or CCA's, are all three of these pads way too aggressive for my stock rotors?
Which Hawks? HP, HP+ or Ceramic?Quote:
Originally Posted by Min988
Endless SSS was alright. If you are doing street driving only, why not VN9500? CCA is too aggressive for the soft rotors in my opinion.
VN9500 ($155) or SSS ($240) hmmm, what if I used SSS on the front and VN9500 on the rear, would that be problematic?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
Just follow my instructions as per my reply to your PM and you'll be set :)
Also note that you may need to do extra sets of the procedures depending on how your pads bed in.
I don't see any problems except under VERY VERY VERY VERY hard braking from 160km/h, which you will never do on the street.Quote:
Originally Posted by Min988
I paid $260 landed for my Hawk Ceramics front and rear.
$311 for front and rear Hawks ceramics shipped, now the waiting game.
cant wait for my rotors to be worn in.... *sigh* have to do some crazy braking... joking....
Consider ebay as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Min988
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HAWK-...1991QQtcZphoto
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HAWK-...6332QQtcZphoto
$311 down to $247.30 front and rear pads Hawk ceramic. With the cheaper shipping option from heeltoeauto.com, Just had to email them and ask them about other shipping options, awesome service quick reply.Quote:
Originally Posted by Min988
Good price. Be aware that with the ceramics, you need to do the hard running-in when you first get it. Otherwise it will have weaker initial bite than stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Min988
I changed at 60,000kms. Upgraded to Euro V6 Calipers and DBA Slotted Rotors on front. Fitted Bendix ultimate front, and Bendix Carbon on rear. Braking is excellent. Cheers
Which Euro V6 calipers? Are they 2-pot?
I am not too sure. When I bought the car, the guy gave them too me. The pad itself it quite a bit larger. Braking has improved alot. Cheers
Aaron, I am about to replace my front pads with some CCA's. Is this not a good idea? I have OEM rotors still but will be replacing them with DBA 4000 slotted in the next 6 months or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Nothing wrong with them. Just that they will wear your OEM rotors quicker. If you are changing to DBA 4000 down the road, I don't see a problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by docker
arron, what discs are you using??
With my spoon pads my rotors are really getting a beating..
I'm still on the original OEM discs. My left side rotors are getting grooved, while the right side is still pretty flat. I'm considering either getting DBA4000 slotted up front and solid in the rear ($600++) or going for Racingbrake UP hardened rotors (guessing $650-700 landed)Quote:
Originally Posted by EK Civic R
You reckin the J's Racing discs any good??
I got a set for the front for free from a friend who didn't need them brand new as well..
What do you think of slotting discs that haven't got them?
No harm trying if you can get them for free. Or you can sell them to me for a good price if they are from the CL7. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by EK Civic R
Most discs start as blanks, and the slots are machined in. You can get them machined, but make sure you use someone who has experience in doing it, otherwise you can get cracking around the edges when you push hard on the track.
Yea, I know.. But my mechanic knows someone who does it well..
I've heard that the CL7 discs are a different size. As in the diameter is the same, but the thickness is different so they don't actually fit.
I think the CL9 were 29mm and the CL7 are 26/27mm.. Thats why my friend didn't need them. He got the spoon calipers fitted, but they wouldn't fit over the stock/J's rotors..
You know of this?
Nope, haven't really heard of this. From the DBA catalog, the thickness for CL9 rotors is 28mm. Well, his loss is your gain. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by EK Civic R
hehe true.. but his got the spoon calipers..
I test drove his car a few weeks back..
The braking power is unbelieveable.. I so want a set~!!
If you plan to get Spoon calipers, get your friend to sell me the rotors for cheap. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by EK Civic R
I tried to order some DBA 4000 from Autobarn today, they dont stock them on the shelf so the guy called up DBA to see if he could get some in and was told they are discontinued in the 4000 series but are still availiable in the standard series in slotted.Quote:
Originally Posted by docker
My 2008 DBA catalog says that they have it. The part number for the front is 2510 (available in slotted, drilled and 4000 series), and rear is 2511 (available in slotted and and drilled only).Quote:
Originally Posted by Min988
Finally got round to installing my Hawks HPS pads (fronts/backs) and RDA slotted rotors (fronts) yesterday, The stopping power has increased marginally, however it feels as if the new pads can't lock up the wheels the same way my stocko's did, still waiting to wear both the rotor and pad in a bit more.
Ran into some issues with the one of the front rotor screw stripped the head on it while removing because of the locktite they use on them. Anyone by any chance know the type of screw that is so I can order it from the Honda spare parts department?
Here's a before pic and here's a crappy after pic, I'll take another later today with the wheel removed.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3093/...eb0a276476.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3014/...d9b8b4f008.jpg
I was told by the dealer during service 3 months ago that I had 10 percent left on my front pads its even on the service report, but when I pulled them out there was at least 55 percent remaining on the fronts and 70 percent on the rears. Was the service inspection even done on my car?
i had the same problem, 3 services(40-60k) @ 40 (50%), 50 (need to change), 60 (60%).Quote:
Originally Posted by Min988
Your old rotors seem to be in good condition. You need to bed the HPS pads in. Look on the box, there are bedding in instructions. You MUST follow them. I had the same experience with Hawk Ceramics. Once you bed them in, they bite better than stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Min988
Dunno if i should revive this thread, but wth just doing it anyway.. Anyway my brake pad's almost gone, know that by the sharp shrieking sound when i brake on low speeds.. Should i just go to a brake shop and get them to replace it as i've got no knowledge in this stuff and got no tools to change it myself.. are places like "brake stop" recommended and get them to change it for me?? And should i just let them pick the brake pads or should i buy them myself and bring it to a shop and get them to put it on?
I recommend you buy the pads from the US or Japan, then get a regular workshop to install them for you. Which state are you in? You don't need to go to a brake workshop and this is a routine replacement part.
Looking through threads on brake pads, most people recommend the brands Hawk and Endless.. Mine's a street car, will never go on track, so are such expensive brake pads essential or should i just settle for cheaper ones?? Do places like brake stop supply brake pads?? I'm in melbourne eastern/south eastern suburbs btw..
Hawk pads are cheap. I paid $260 landed for front and rear sets. Cheaper than OEM.
Where did you buy yours? ebay?? I found one on ebay, here's the linky: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HAWK-...spagenameZWD2V
Do tell me if it's the correct one please as i need to place an order asap.. cheers :thumbsup:
Yep,right ones,Euro is same as Acura TSX.Quote:
Originally Posted by bjornzzz
are there any local retailers that stock them??
I haven't seen any locally.Quote:
Originally Posted by bjornzzz
I'm about to install some Ferodo XL pads onto the Euro Accord 05 next week, about time as never been able to get around doing it!
I heard its just a normal street pad but having had some rather strange experience with Bendix Ultimates with metallic materal before (suffered lots of cold whining noise, plus lack of braking power when too cold, and total lack of it when too hot, although otherwise very good in the right temp range), I decided to gamble on the Ferodos street pads over stock or the Bendix Ultimates or Premium for now.
Will report back after a few weeks time after bedding them in!
And wondering if any of you have used the Ferodo XL's before ? :)
I have used the Ferodo XL on the Astra to replace the Lucas pads that are stock Holden/Vauxhall. The XLs have less initial bite and do have less friction. But they don't eat up the rotors like the Lucas pads were doing (1 rotor per set of pads).
thats crazy!Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Ok thanks for the information!Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Now I'm starting to wonder if I should get a refund of it lol. But for only $75.00 a pair I'll see what I get. Much better than paying Honda a lot of for the stock pads, which couldn't get any worst anyway (too soft, initially grippy but leaves much deposits on the discs).
If anything I'll just swap them again for the Hawks Pads :(
:o :)
Give it a go, the price is good and it is still adequate for street use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Omotesando
Reviving this thread again, any1 know what's a decent price for a brake pad replacement?? not the pads, the labour for fitting.. Got the hawk performance hps pads and now need to get it put on the car.. DIY is not an option.. lol thanks.. :D
EDIT: was quoted $92 for a pad change at K-mart auto.. so that should be a benchmark.. Not sure if it includes a brake fluid change..
I don't trust k-mart. What state are you in?
was thinking about that too.. I'm in melbourne, outer eastern suburbs..
Suburb: Wantirna 3152 (for reference.. lol)
Oh and how long does it take?? the guys at k mart said 2-3 hours.. and i don't really think it takes that long..
After 2 months of using the brakes even after proper bedding instructions I can finally say that the Hawks HPS approx after 1000kms (city) out brake OEM and the bite is very noticeable over stock and stopping power has definately improved. Initially I was left with the opinion that not much has changed over stock even after proper bedding in procedures, however that has changed after a couple of months of normal driving, I get the feeling the Hawks pads require alot more bedding in than the box recommends.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
agreed, mine only worn in better a couple of weeks ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by Min988
and i've had them on for a while.....but cause i changed my rotors too.
did you?
I changed my pads and rotors at the same time as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
yups so you had the same problem as me, longer time to break in.
lol still need help here.. ><..Quote:
Originally Posted by bjornzzz
Shouldn't take no longer than 1-2hr for pads, depending if you get a newbie or a pro. <--- cause they would charge you hourly.
Cant tell you from the top of my head cause i had my rotors put on at the same time.
Took me 2hrs to change pads, fluid, and rotors. But I'm not a mechanic. They probably won't take 2-3 hours but they'll charge ya that.
My Endless SSS pads have finally been bedded in and perform like a star. No squealing anymore and the biting power is noticeably better. :thumbsup:
how much should they charge, or what's a reasonable price?? I'm guessing that all pad changes come with a brake fluid change or am i wrong to think that?
you are wrong.
depends if you want to change but recommended you should change unless you recently got your fluids changed recently.
Hi guys. So can anyone who knows type up a list of pads and rotor that cl9 can use including it's price....be really appreciated :)
^^^
theres quite a few brands out there.
heres a site with most of them thou
Brakepads for front
rotors for front
btw its just heeltoes site, american prices.. but you get an idea
*bump*
just wondering if the front/rear brake pads for the euro are generic across the range. i.e. do they fit dc5, civic etc etc...
anybody have any personal experience with aftermarket pads at a reasonable price?
dc5R's pads dont fit in the euro. that's for sure.
I was using stock pads on wakefield twice so far, and recently just put in some new dixcel type m pads for the front and rear still running stock. heading down to wakefield tomorrow, so i shall let you guys know how it goes =)
are dixcel type m for track or street?
i think it's more of a street pad, but the type z was out of stock :p so i thought i will give these one a try. they are rated 0-500.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
what's the temp rating for the stock pads?
350C for stock pads i think.Quote:
Originally Posted by BusterSonic12
Type M is for street use, but its reasonbly better then stock. For performance pads, type-z would be your choice! And if you want hardcore, Type-R are available which is stated as for competiton use.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
Just wanted to let you guys know that I found a local dealer that sells Hawks, Ferodo, Endless, Stoptech, AP Racing and DBA. They are located near WSID at Arndell Park, just off Resevoir Road on the Blacktown side.
Got my rotors through them and it cost $100 less than the price I got from Bursons. They also do ADR-approved Goodridge braided brake lines for the Euro. Price is reasonable as well.
Edit: Old age is catching up to me. Site is www.vsport.com.au as pointed out by enkay.