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Trying to attatch spread sheet, I see now it will not accept an xls prefix. Anyone any ideas?
Its a scam I tells ya :pQuote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT
http://the-riotact.com/?p=3314
nah man...i havent been in that rev range...i meant that wif this new tank im going to keep between that rev range as an experiment to test my fuel consumptionQuote:
Originally Posted by TypeG
HONDA said that euro should be the one with a great safe fuel consumption are they? :) hopefully it's true but with also a great output power..
It's still 4 cents off if you have a docket anyway. Plus, the weekly shopping for 2 usually exceeds $30 anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
Quote:
Originally Posted by sendok
Yep near V6 power with the economy of a 4cyl pulling a weight of 1400kg using smart gearing.
The i-VTEC K Series is a masterpiece :p
It's just an engine.
Would you prefer a 4cyl KIA engine in your Euro? :p
It's an engine, but it's not a masterpiece.
If you want to see a masterpiece, look at next year's VQ35HR. That is a masterpiece.
Yes well lets see how the VQ35HR fairs against the new Legend V6 engine ;)
The new engine is SOHC, prolly not hard to get better as an Excel has newer technology, bit disappointing from Mr Honda.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
Whoa... Legends V6 engine will be a turn on.. :)
Well, it makes 234kW without using variable lift like the Legend's engine does.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
Here are the upgrades, I highlighted the ones in red as interesting:
What they forgot to mention is that the VQ35HR has 2 intakes, one for each bank of 3 cylinders (so there won't be filling problems like when having all 6 cylinders fighting for air from 1 intake plenum) as well as a separate exhaust header for each bank!Quote:
5th Generation of the VQ.
Redline increase to 7500rpm
Higher compression ratio: 10.6:1 (previously 10.3:1)
Redesigned block for increased rigidity: ladder frame reinforcment
Increased height of cylinder blocks
New cylinder heads
Improved coolant system flow
Worldwide first hydrogen free DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating for lowered friction on valve lifters
Stronger valve springs
Larger valve diameters
Hydraulic CVTC on intake side
Electromagnetic CVTC on exhaust side
Adoption of isometric exhaust manifold
Equal length exhaust manifold
Reinforced Chain cover
Sound insulating engine cover
New oil pump rotor
Reinforced oil pan
Enlarged crank journal diameter
Enlarged diameter crank pin
Twin knock sensors
Symmetric intake system
Straight inlet port
Iridium spark plugs
Spark plug modified into M12
Asymmetric piston skirt
Longer Conrod
Processing PVD Piston Ring
Yep.That's the way i look at it.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Just another noob question:
How do you guys get good economy on an auto euro. I get 14L around the city. mostly driving at 6.30am and home at 5.30pm.
Morning is free run with few lights and cars along victoria parade. Afternoon is slow but moving constantly; if you know Johnston St in Carlton, Collingwood etc. you know what i mean.
Can I please get some good driving tips? I'm still on my Ps :o Thanks heaps.
update on petrol usuage....result not good...
been driving normally shifting between 2k-4k revs...damn usage per 100km went from 14.0 - 14.4!!!!! wtf...
ill keep uz guys updated...
It's not about the RPM which you shift at, but the throttle you use. Use less than 1/4 throttle and your fuel consumption will be much improved.
how do you exactly measure the throttle opening (if you don't have VAFC for example)?
My Euro had 14.xL/100km economy as well when new, 7 months later its much lower now (9.1L-10.4L average).
Give it a few months so the engine and gearbox can loosen up and wear-in properly.
The trick is to use the highest gear possible, but not too high otherwise u'll stress the engine. (well for the 6MT at least)
Foot to the floor = fulllQuote:
Originally Posted by euro77
Foot halfway up = 1/2
Foot 3/4 up = 1/4
Hehehhe. Everything's an estimate. Auto drivers tend to use more than 1/2 throttle when accelerating from the lights. Manual drivers use up to 1/4 (unless they want a nice chirp)
I just found something on Honda NZ's site. They specify a minimum of 96 RON for their Euro. The engine specs are the same with the AUDM model, 140kW and 223Nm. Does this mean that when we use 95 RON, we are using partial capacity of the knock-detection system?
*sticks to 98 RON*
i regularly use vortex gold (95) or shell unleaded 95 (not V-power) and get good economy at "1/4 throttle" ;D - about 580-600 km/tank.
I tried a while ago to use low throttle at the expense of embarassment. Economy still not good - 12L. Everyone looks at me as they pass me .. LOL!!
Is yours an auto or manual? It's about 12L/100km for the auto.Quote:
Originally Posted by ^__^ SM ^__^
Auto. Now has 3800km on clock.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
That sounds about right. If you drive in that style for the whole tank you should get 11L/100km.
Changed from using Shell Optimax to Mobil 8000 and my figures have changed from 8.9l/100k to 8.3l/100k (average of last 5 fill ups) for a stock 2006 manual standard with just over 12,000km on the clock.
Driving habits not significantly changed (but weather is a bit warmer) so I am happy with the change which is about break-even. It does seem to be "more responsive" and have a bit "more power" measured by the famously accurate "butt meter" and how much throttle is required to maintain a given speed.
May give BP Ultimate a go and see what that does.
oh ok ye mayb i should giv it time...so uz guys are averaging 9-11L/ 100kms ok ill keep an eye on dat...but damn by the end of these few months i will definetly be broke...any employers offering jobs pm me LOL!!!<< hopefully this does not get me banned =[
Re: petrol brands(95 and 98) it appears all bar Shell get the :thumbsup: Does that sound right?
hopefully i pick up my car before xmas, i can either get a BP or Caltex fuel card, which do you guys recommned out of those 2,
also how long do u think i should drive it in, my dad said 1000k but what do u guys think
BP Ultimate and Caltex 98RON are both great for me Euro. Take ur pick ;)
When you break-in a new car in, just drive it normally. Dont be too gentle but dont thrash it. You want the engine to get used to normal driving as soon as possible and you want to give it a good rev now and then so the piston rings seal properly.
Have a read of this article: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Yep.As per eurodudes post.:thumbsup:
what about mobil 1????
Mobil is good.gets the :thumbsup: from nearly all on this site.Quote:
Originally Posted by industrie
thats great then, i just couldnt be bothered reading every page, but most of you guys had given BP and vortex was the go, as mobil 1 station is close to me...sweet!!Quote:
Originally Posted by tony1234
mobil 1 is good.. even tho i use shell :0...
for new car, drivin normally until 500km am i right?
Here's my preference in terms of performance vs economy (all 98RON)
BP Ultimate
Caltex
Mobil
Shell
Ampol (bad economy)
United and the other noname dodgy watered down places.
Yeah.sounds about right.What lead you to this conclusion?:)Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
thanks Euro Dude, much appreciated and the rest of you guys thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
i read the mototune article and my old man says kinda the same thing about easy drive/idle till the engine is at normal operating temp then do some low flying, he said its about reaching the revs and speed and engine temp, not how fast u get there (which is thrashing) i guess i shoulda just listened, he is a mechanic after all. i asked him about the manuals saying to take it easy, and he laughed saying easy to tell everyone to take it easy then telling to drive it hard after a warm up and 1/2 the ppl just thrashing it.
Remember to go for Mobil 8000. The purple one.Quote:
Originally Posted by industrie
Basically, drive it cautiously until the engine is warm, then drive normally but no clutch drops and hard starts.Quote:
Originally Posted by 80057
BTW, the manual doesn't say to drive it gently. It says to avoid hard starts and clutch drops, as well as vary your RPM.
sorry if i didnt mention it before, but im getting an auto, im planning for this to be the family car in a few years and the missus cant drive manual. hopefully then i can a gtr, s2000, evo X or somthin lol if i win lotto.
It's similar in an auto. No launching of your car, and NEVER drop it into D at high RPM.
so i should use the semi auto to hold it in gear longer to force higher revs instead of just letting the auto up shift
In the city, drive normally in D. But if you are forced to go on the motorways, use the semi auto to run the engine at different RPMs.Quote:
Originally Posted by 80057
thanks for you input,
sorry for changing the direction of the thread guys so back to petrol.
does anyone have anything against or for or experience, changing petrol brands from time to time?, such as continously using bp then changing to caltex and seeing an imediate difference.?
In terms of performance, no. But as for Fuel economy, yes I sometimes see quite a substantial difference. ~9.2L vs ~10.6L
Is that right?Which fuels are you talking about.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
The list I posted on page 10. Basically, BP Ultimate and Caltex Vortex give my car the best economy. Performance wise, all 98RON seems about the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by tony1234
Although when I compare 95RON to 98RON, I notice the engine accelerates a bit better or smoother on 98RON. Or maybe its just in my mind lol
Actually, I've noticed a bit more torque on Caltex Vortex 95 compared to V-power. V-power required the engine to rev higher to get the car moving. Just my 2c. :)
You really need to turn off VSC to determine if there is a performance difference.
VSC feels like it eats 20kw during a clean acceleration (no wheel spin). In fact I turn it off all the time now, except when it rains or if the road is dodgy. Its almost as if VSC uses a separate engine map lol
^^ VSC doesn't limit power nor torque. But if you are wheelspinning, it would be slower than with it off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Na man at full throttle there is definitely a performance difference. The car feels much more aggressive at low-mid revs, even when the car has complete traction on a good surface.
My best guess is that VSC limits the electronic throttle to some extend, to avoid wheel slips and bad traction on poor road surfaces. Not sure if VSC is pre-mapped to do that, or if the sensors are too sensitive picking up even the slightest wheel speed difference, but I'm very certain something is going on there.
Unless you see that "!" symbol flash for traction control or "flash" "flash" "flash" for VSA - the VSA is not doing anything to limit power to the wheels.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
But even if VSA limits the electronic throttle for a split second, you would see the /!\ flash anyway since it happens so fast.
I dont know, maybe Honda updated the VSA system a bit in the MY06 models or something.
If it was only a small performance difference then I would think twice, but with my car, there is a definite difference.
VSA ON - The car accelerates very smoothly and feels safe.
VSA OFF - The car accelerates more frugal and rough, and light on its feet.
If VSA works for a fraction of a section it will still flash. I think you are getting wheel spin if you are noticing a difference :)Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
Try a rolling start in 1st gear in the dry - say from 3000rpm to red line. See if you notice any difference in acceleration. You shouldn't.
I notice a difference in 2nd and 3rd gear as well, not just during the initial take off.
VSA really does feel like it hesitates the acceleration between say 2000rpm and 4500rpm. Not all the time, but easily around 75% of the time.
Maybe someone else here with an 06 model can verify my findings.
Yeah.I think there is something in what you say.from a standing start there seems to be a diff.it seems a little "sharper" off the mark.but i agree with yfin and aaronng when say doing 60ks drop down a gear and give it full throttle there is no diff.Maybe it's in my mind as well!!!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
I do agree with Eurodude and Tony as well. I know it shouldn't have any effect unless there is wheel spin/slide but it does seem diff to me as well, esp low revs and powering out of corners.
After 27,000kms trying Vortex 95, BP Premiun and Ultimate I can say that Ultimate seemed to suit the Euro and made the engine seem sweeter. Do note that I used only Vortex 95 so maybe Vortex 98 is just as good.
regarding VSA ~
Going a bit off topic from Petrol lol, Ive made a new poll thread http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56903
So far so good with me & caltex....2nd tank already.
Cant wait to WOT my K24A.... will take it for a oil and filter change next week, then can WOT already. Once a while taking off from 1st gear, the VSA light does indeed come up, maybe launch it slightly too hard.
i've mainly used vortex 98 and ultimate,both about the same i think.Quote:
Originally Posted by Adagio
Im getting awesome fuel economy on BP ultimate 9.8L/100km in town/city driven HARD. Im impressed and smooth power also!
I agreeQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
BP ultimate does it better than mobil 1 or shell....for me personally
Just thought you all should know!! When a refinery has a part of the plant shut down and can't keep supply to the market, it purchases it from its competitors for an agreed price and sells it at its own stations. Therefore you don't really know if you are buying product a or b or a mixture of both. The fuel you buy from independent stations generally comes from the major suppliers. All fuel that is sold has to pass minimum specifications and is strictly lab controlled. As to whether 98 or 95 is best for the Euro, its a personal choice. The higher the RON, the better the burn and the less the engine requires to get the same power output. I have seen a test done on 2 Ford V8 engines comparing BP Ultimate with BP standard over 80,000klms. The inlet/exhaust valves looked brand new (no gunge) when compared to the engine using standard. This is why I use Ultimate in my Euro, even if I'm not sure if it is Ultimate, ALL the time!!!
interesting CL69, but yeh i'll stick to bp ultimate of vortex 98
Well said CL69 what you say makes sense. I understand BP Ultimate is only refined in WA for all of Australia. I suspect that BP stations having Ultimate do not get a competitor's equivalent. This is based on the number of BP Ultimate pumps I come across with "Sorry" on the pump handle. To me that means BP are not prepared to compromise or am I too gullible??
It's all psychological sometimes :]
If you think it's good.. it's good..
However, i've always had the worst experience with Mobil 98, in every vehicle i've driven so far, tho the normal unleaded Mobil stuff works fine.
Maybe it's just all in my head.
Never had issues with BP Ultimate and it always runs well. I only stick to Shell, Caltex and BP.
I use Shell more because it's around where I work, live and drive around. However, same with the Caltex stations. BP i've found difficult to locate in certain areas.
Of course its mostly psychological. I know every car I have owned went better when I washed them and fairly flew when I washed and waxed them:p
I wonder if we are going to be so picky on brands in 10 years time. Will we be discussing the pros and cons of various hydrogen generators, lithium ion batteries etc:confused:
^^ Fifth Gear used washing and waxing to increase the acceleration of their vege oil-powered mercedes. LOL
now that i have a euro i can join the conversation,
i went to port mac from sydney over the break (about 430ks for those who dont know how far) vortex 98 on the way up and bp ultimate on the way home, i couldnt feel any difference. tho i had a heavier load on the way back. i did notice bp was more fuel efficient 7.9/100 compared to 8.3/100, even tho i had a heavier load when using bp, but it could be my driving, i had hardly any traffic both ways, only to 4.15 to get there and 5hrs to get home.
in 6 days i have done nearly 1400kms, lol time for the 1000k service.
Sydney is now out of V power. What's going on?
i found out today when i went to fill up, had to use octane boost and regular unleaded :(
apparently they have been out since boxing day. damn!
You should have used 95 or went for BP Ultimate, Mobil 8000 or Caltex Vortex98. Octane booster is not good for your car. It fouls the combustion chamber a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZEi20T
i wasnt sure i would make it there, after i had already visited a few other servos and the needle was lower than id like :P
the shells around my area dont seem to stock 95! they have regular, v-power and v-power racing (100ron E5) anyway its a one off and only needs to last me till next week.
its funny how you say it fouls the combustion chamber, on the bottle it says is cleans it lol how ironic! but yes i know what they do, it was a quick fix because i was desperate