lol its funy because the paper is creased :p
lol still love you tho! :thumbsup:
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lol its funy because the paper is creased :p
lol still love you tho! :thumbsup:
yeh hahahahaha.....wait til i get my K&N apollo air filter with bumper replaced to force feed air, and i'll see how much i run.Quote:
Originally Posted by EUR003act
somehow i don't know how but got some moisture and you can see it smudged.
Thanks for your love mate, but i am taken puahahah :p
lol hey... my heart goes out to Evelyn as always... but what she dont know :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
hahaha water hey? sure it was water? lol
still good effort tho... i reckon you should get an RBC... then you can be more like me lol :thumbsup:
waiting for you to make one for me. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by EUR003act
will do!Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
Need a set of Toda! Cheers mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by EUR003act
what area are you located in the CAN?
tuggers bra!Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
how the f*ck come you didnt tell me you were down on the weekend!? we couldve hung out! :p lol
Ill have my RBC fitted by sunday ! ( with a little help from justin)
Then i can join the RBC club.
Frank club next!
hahahaha yeah im free sunday... let me know if you need me to come drill/tap your nipple :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Suntzu
Hahahah yeh sorry matie, i took mum down cause dad is working there for a month.Quote:
Originally Posted by EUR003act
Celebrated for his birthday so can't really come and visit you love! :angel:
next time....
swear to g*d i couldve celebrated with you! lmao...Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
no probs buddy... next time let me know... im gonna arrange a euro meet in the next month or so :thumbsup:
Nice AF ratios, Darren. :thumbsup: Too bad it doesn't climb back up ater the dip to make more power.
Thanks aaron.
BOO to my power O/P.
It was a hot day after all. I'll give the next dyno day a try once I get my top speed headers back on. THen I'll have some comparable numbers to yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
:eek: so you'll compare to daz but not me? typical mod behaviour :pQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
lol jokes jokes... ill be up for the next dyno day for sure! :thumbsup:
you'll put us all to shame.Quote:
Originally Posted by EUR003act
:o:o:o:o:o
yeh no worries aaron, hopefully i can get my kit on by then.
Topspeed vs Toda. Like using an ant to challenge a praying mantis. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by EUR003act
Can't wait to see your car in person! Tempting me to go RBC too. LOL. Will RBC mate directly with J32A TB without the bypass problem?
lol everyone wants to see my car in person :pQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
hahahah
do it! RBC FTW!!!
RBC will mate with J32A3 the exact same as the RBB will... ie: it needs idle bypass blocked off! that can be as simple as gaffer tape (like i did for my trial run) or getting manifold welded up, or blanking gasket made up... :thumbsup:
Damn.... no easy direct bolt on fix then... Hopefully someone an FN2R owner will be tempted to go for FD2R intake manifold and TB, so i can pick that off him.
My RBC has arrived! yippee! Install the weekend. just got to pick up spare TB gasket and find our what size hole I have to tap and nipple etc so I can buy parts.
excellent.
Where'd you buy it and how much?Quote:
Originally Posted by Suntzu
really interested :)
JDMYARD was $450 delivered to canberra. I can claim the gst fortunately!
Install on Sat!
Man that is bloody awesome. Im sooo tempting to order a set as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Suntzu
Let me know if any major difficulties with install and performance difference. I have pulleys on order and if install rbc as well, that would be it for me in terms of performance mods :)
Ok, finally got mine done after replacing my headers with a custom made set that won't fall apart when I drive the car like the last set!
Mods
One of those JXXXE extreme kits with custom headers.
Out of pocket costs......about 6.3K
http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/2...can1bv1.th.jpg
..and here's my old headers when I replaced them.
http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/4...0722vx4.th.jpg
http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/3...0721aq6.th.jpg
Damnnnnn.... looks like they really went at it with a hammer to get it to fit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
haha...and it was still rubbing!...for 9 months!...
wow, that Jtune header looks pretty dodgey.
Still, at least your torque curve looks nice and flat. Hopefully you can start to enjoy driving the car, now that you have the custom header.
we've found a winner!!Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
someone more ghetto than aaron!!! :p
Bit dissapointed with those numbers with jtune extreme kit fitted. 133.4kw after spending well over $4000 plus fitting? Not that impressed. Do you have a base line when your car was stock on that dyno?Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin086
wow... i would expect more than 133kw with the Jtune EXTREME given I/H/E + ECU tune!
I remember Jtune saying that they didn't focus on peak power but instead focussed on gaining a fat torque curve.
it's hard to compare between dynos. 133kw is still quite high in terms of peak power.
but look at the bloody torque curve
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
definately!Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_F
compare that torque curve to mine or any other euro dyno... the jtune torque curve is very nice!
I drove one of the demo cars, and the sensation you get from the torque curve is interesting. You pull harder in the next gear at 5000rpm than you do in the previous gear at 7000rpm. So it makes you want to change gears (and enjoy doing so because of the added acceleration) and should also make the car quicker in the 1/4 mile.Quote:
Originally Posted by EUR003act
thats it. dynos are good indicators but it all comes down to the 1/4 mile
let us know how it goes champ!Quote:
Originally Posted by Suntzu
At first, I too concentrated on outright power but at the end of the day, going from my stock run of 103.6Kw to 143.4Kws was not a massive increase but having as much as 60Nm extra at the wheels makes so much of a difference when the car is pulling uphill.
hehehe all i originally wanted was highest possible max power... but when i did my build i realised having power from 600rpm to 6000rpm is much more important than from 6000-7400rpm...Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroAccord13
Wow the accereration on that would be very nice Merlin with all that torque
Its a fantastic result with a solid performance curve on the torque. I'd love. Pity about the issues with Jtune Extreme or I would have upgraded to it. If they had this under control thered be heaps of customers....
OK, I got the RBC as you know. I have now fixed/ tighted my header. That helped.
AND
I have replaced my flexpipe with a double braided on on the topspeed SS header. It was cracked.
Its a LOT quieter and it seems to have more torque and smoother power delivery. Its noticeable.
On thing I do notice now its all fixed is that its doesnt seem to be reving as hard at 6000rpm +. Then again that could be pyschological as its quieter.
Is it possible that with my mods the stock exhaust is now restricting my top end? I didnt notice it with the flex pipe as it was cracked an releasing pressure no doubt...
I have:
Jtune Mild
Comptech Icebox with KN mod
Topspeed SS Header ( flexpipe fixed)
300 cell Cat
RBC
TB Bypass
Hondata heatshield Gasket
Might be time to dyno again think...
Do it!!!
What was your last dyno figure russ?
Replacing the stock exhaust with a dual outlet exhaust has minimal gains on a stock standard car with no ecu tuning. Maybe a few hp if you're lucky.
But your car is far from standard and, with the reflashed ECU, I have a feeling the stock exhaust might be holding you back a little (hard to know without dyno testing). If you want to maximise your gains, single outlet 2.5" to 3" exhausts are proven to work well with modified k series engines. A good exhaust shop will be able to make you a 2.5" single outlet exhaust, 1 resonator (good brand like magnaflow), 1 muffler (good brand like magnaflow) and mandrel bent stainless steel piping for about $1k.
But if you want to keep the dual outlet look of the exhaust you'll be looking at a few hundred more if you go custom. There's also plenty of aftermarket options from Japan and the US. But with the Aussie dollar the way it is at the moment though your going to be paying more than usual.
I'm keen to see a new dyno for your car!
just wondering on a side note if you have 2 resonators, 1 hotdog and other larger which one would be best to remove?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_F
I think our stock exhaust is 57mm. ( about 2.25 inch). Id love to try a 2.5 single custom system but theres a few people here ( Junyu I think) who tried this and got a lot of noise and resonance and I cant stand that. Im totally happy witht he amount of noise my car generates for the power at the moment. So I would do it but dunno if i can take any rice droning.:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_F
That being said, the 06-08TSX went to a 62.5mm exhaust and that was after a small power increase of about 7kw I think.
So it must be worth it as 62mm is about 2.5 inch.
My last dyno was 118kw and normal euros were about 102kw ( on that dyno) so im up about 15kw, plus my latest mods Im guessing around 125kwatw now easy.
So gieven honda upped the exhaust for 7kw, i may be hitting the limit for the 57mm exhaust.
Hard to say...
If you stick with dual outlet, make sure that your exhaust guy does the split and bends perfectly, as those are the sections that restrict flow compared to a single outlet of the same diameter.
Yea I have a 2.5" custom exhaust with a supercat 2.5" (internal) resonator and a supercat 2.25" (internal) muffler. It's loud, probably twice as loud as a J's racing exhaust so it's definitely not for everyone. It also has a really aggressive exhaust note which some will love and others will hate. The car literally screams at high rpm and feels a bit stronger on the butt dyno then when I had the J's racing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Suntzu
A couple of larger, good quality resonators would take the volume down without impacting the flow too seriously, if at all. So it's definitely possible to have a custom exhaust that sounds good with no rice droning - you just have to find an exhaust shop that knows what they're talking about, sells good quality mufflers like supercat/magnaflow and knows how to design a system that will meet your sound level requirements.
From the dynos I've seen in the states most highly modified k-series are running 3" exhausts. But they're putting out in excess of 230whp which is the equivalent of about 200-210whp (147/150wkw) on an Australian dyno.
With the J's racing I was putting out about 124kw, a stock euro with only k&N panel filter put out about 111kw on the same day on the same dyno. So the ecu flash has definitely added a fair whack of power to your car if your putting out 15-16kw more than a standard car. Based on that, and what you've said, a 2.5" exhaust definitely wouldn't hurt with your setup. I'm just not sure how much more flow you'd get out a dual system if you decide to go that way.
Once I get my car tuned I'm hoping the true benift of my maxim works header and 2.5" single outlet exhaust is exposed. The difference between components (header, exhuast, intake etc.) is much harder to judge untill they've been tuned. Since your car has already been flashed, you should notice an improvement straight away from the less restrictive exhaust.
That's good advice. It's also part of the reason I went with a single outlet setup. The high-end off the shelf jap exhausts like Fujitsubo have well designed splits but when you go custom it can be a different story... it adds complexity, more welding and more possibility for the exhaust shop to stuff up.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Awesome advice. The problem is that in my area I dont trust any of the exhaust joints I have spoken too...
Did you get a plug or your missing gap when the other dual exhaust is? What others mods have you got as im trying to get an idea of the improvements your exhaust might have had.
Yea, I'd say it's best to avoid custom exhausts untill you find a shop you can trust. It might be worth asking around at a few performance orientated workshops to see who they recommend.Quote:
Originally Posted by Suntzu
I was trying for months to get the OEM exhaust plug to fill the gap. Cost was abot $80 but the guy who offered to send the part over backed out.
Mods at the time of dyno:
GruppeM intake
Maxim works exhaust manifold
JDM Accord Euro R metal substrate catalyic convertor (300 CEL i believe)
J's racing 60rs single outlet exhaust
Result = 124.5kw
The maxim works header made the most noticeable difference to power on the butt dyno. The gruppeM felt a bit better than the 60rs in terms of gains. The custom exhaust felt like a slight improvement when compared to the 60rs at high RPM.
If we conservatively say my car gained 12kw over a standard car, the break down in gains (in my opinion) from the parts would be:
Maxim works exhaust manfiold: 6kw atw
Gruppe M intake: 4kw atw
J's racing Exhaust: 2kw atw
With the larger 2.5" exhaust I might say 3-4kw, only a very slight improvement over the J's racing 2.35" (60mm) exhaust.
I definitely feel like the car needs a tune now to get the most out of the mods- the power band has really shifted to high rpm. If I can find my dyno sheet I'll post it up for you. You'll be able to see the big spike in power once vtec engages. A lower vtec point and some changes to ignition/fuel and VTC would make a world of difference. I would be hoping for at least another 10kw with my mods after tuning.
Summary: single outlet exhaust does no where near as much as a good header, but with tuning/reflashed ecu, your much more likely to take advantage of the increased flow it provides.
Might get a custom exhaust then. Maybe 2.5 inch single with twin resonators and a loop muffler to quieten it down. Mild steel to save costs and my car wont wear out an exhaust in the next 18 months ( when i get a new car).
You reckon a single 2.5 inch will do it ok over stock?
anyone see this?
http://hondata.com/kpro_dual_ecu_tsx.html
A 2.5" exhaust should make a noticable difference. Will be intersesting to see what sort of gains you get with the flash. :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Suntzu
O5 Accord Euro R motor
Kpro
TDM headers
3inch Exhaust
Intake + filter
RBC manifold
Type R Throttle Body
144.7kw (base run)
Stay tuned for the final output once more tuning is done
what your using a EG chassis?
shouldn't it be under civic build then?
Benson,
What this tells me is that if we had tuning for the K24 then we would be getting big gains as most of us have very similar if not more mods than that and arent getting near those figures...
And your point is?Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
This is to show what a K24a3 euro motor can produce with the mods as listed.
You mean Euro (k24a), not Euro R (k20a)?Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson
but euro R engine is diff to euro engine dudeQuote:
Originally Posted by Benson
Sorry its a K24a3 motor.
impressive numbers for bolt-ons only (with tuning)
didnt know tuning makes such a big difference i think its time i get a tune
You need the supporting bolt ons too.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnprocter
you mean I/H/E yeah?Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
yes and other mods if you have.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnprocter
yeah got DC sports headers, j's racing single outlet titanium exhaust and SRI so i think its time for a tune, i was thinking emanage ultimate
yeh go for itQuote:
Originally Posted by johnprocter
$650-750 depending on Oz dollar for unit <--- 1100
$200+/- for Boomslang harness <--- 400+
$650 for tuning <--- 500 by toda
this is a guesstimate breakdown of what i have calculated, from quotes i have gotten.
But no VTC control yes? So therefore no cams? I cant see the point going from my current boltons + Jtune mild to Emanage for a few extra KW UNLESS I have room to add cams and tune with VTC later. Now its getting to Exxcy so im out. bugger
yeh no Vtec control, but you only can lower the engagement of vtec.
if you use Vmanage thats alot more money owing so around 2k-2.5k all up for the whole package of Emanage ult + vmanage + harness + tuning
UPDATED PRICE
At that price, your better of going for the Vipec or the upcomming Haltech platinum pro, both will soon be capable of running drive by wire.
(Still waiting on the Vipec DBW upgrade to be made available to the public)
well i got my unit for $650 + $200 harness + tuning will be $500 so it'll be alright.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_F
hahah damn ozzie dollar jacked carpart price sky high.
Guys, there will be a new ECU on the market for Honda's. Its call the Vipec and will be price very competitive against the Hondata.
It will be made for plug and play. Its has the capabilities of high end computer such as the Motec and Autronic
It should be on the market within a couple of months. I wouldnt waste my money on these piggy back computer. Its just pointless
yeah Chris_F has been raving about it for awhile
Does the motec also sit between the stock ECU output and injectors/ignition/VTC?Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson
i belive the stock ECU will be remove
ITs a standalone Type ECU.
Will be interesting to see if it supports climate control, sunlight sensor, cabin temperature, cruise control and VSA. That also means that the car loses its immobiliser function.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson
if its a stand alone unit... i VERY MUCH DOUBT it would keep VSA / Traction control / Air con / immobiliser / cruise control as all these features are currently controlled via the stock ECU...Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson
i might be wrong, gota wait until its get release
There are a few guys already running the Vipec ecu in Hondas with good results. According to their site already have a plug and play ECU for some B-series hondas?Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson
I'll be getting one for my car as soon as the drive-by-wire option for the V88 model ECU is made available to the general public.
haha, yep I have. Glad you noticed! It looks like a great product.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnprocter
I've also looked into MOTEC m400. You do need retain the factory ecu for certain functions if you want but it can do things like traction control and air con on its own.Quote:
Originally Posted by EUR003act
For those that are curious, the m400 is about $2900, VTC control is a $300 option and drive by wire control is a $385 option. You can also purchase traction control which is even more $$$. So about $3500 for the MOTEC ecu. With another $2000 for the harness, installation and tuning. You wont get much change from $6000.
For between $3000-$3500 you will be able to get a Vipec V88 (flagship model) ECU fully installed and tuned. That includes traction control, full i-vtec control, drive by wire control - everything. It's still not cheap but compared to the MOTEC option it's good value for money.
Yes Vipec ECU are plug and play for OBd1 and Obd2 honda's now.
Damn that is a real dissapointment. 6.3k down the drain with no real result. These stock euro motors can make easy 145-150kw with the right bolts-ons and tuning.Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin086
You can basically get the power from intake and a catback exhaust.
That torque curve is not even impressive, look it at drop from the middle of the graph. With the amount of moneh you spent you would expect a torque curve to be flat right to redline. It shouldnt drop off that much.
If i was Jtune, ill be considering the change in parts selected or pricing.:thumbdwn:
I feel sorry for the owner