Not sure about their camber kits, but whiteline does outsource their swaybar production to china. :(
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Not sure about their camber kits, but whiteline does outsource their swaybar production to china. :(
Ah thats never a good thing to hear.... i thought they were a quality australian made product
I read on their site a real handling article and they stated the specs of an old 12 hr bathurst Eg civic..
Would you need camber kits to dial 1.5 degrees of camber in or is that possible with normal control arms?
Thanks for that cause i read over whitelines real handling article (is forkin old :P) and they didn't mention anything about needing a camber kit to adjust to their specs
Well looks like i'll be ordering their front and rear camber kit and castor kit....
Should go nicely with ksport coils and ASR brace and swaybar
But like Zdster says you may not even need one.
Zdster PM'ed me this great info:
"Odds are, you probably wont even need a camber kit - as long as you get your toe as close to zero as possible.
If you can get your toe to zero and your camber is roughly even on both sides, then all you need to do is rotate your tyres every 5/10,000km and you should be fine.
My car is lowered at the moment (on pretty hard coilovers) and runs 15's (an ek hatch), my toe is zero and have about -2degrees of camber with no camber kit and is perfect."
Thanks Zdster.Hope U can use it too mate :)
Gonna add to this...
AVOID THESE ONES for the fronts:
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/9/7...3403534_tp.jpg
The tightening bolt on the left ALWAYS comes lose regardless how tight you do it up and is dangerous as it dynamically shifts camber on the slightest bumps especially on wet roads. Only suitable for regular trackers who always fiddle with sussy.
The only thing that will redeem that design are spring washers but you can't take that bolt off so nay...
looks like its a nut to me
probably needs a washer under the nut to hold it in place once properly torqued.
(washer spreads and grips....hopefully)
Still dont look like a very safe design tho.
Thanks for the heads up!
so the skunk2 front camber kit is no good for dc2s?
revised pro series is it the same one as in the first post
no thats the old shit one which Zdster was warning against....
the clamp used in Pro(+) is much better to keep the mounting flat and resist distortion.
I also just checked their website and it seems they have revised the tuner series....
I was also under the impression they widened the inside track where the balljoint slides as i have actually seen some on the net with it... was sure it was the skunk2 pro
TUNER
http://www.skunk2.com/images/s2_lrg_cbr_clamp.jpg
PRO
http://www.skunk2.com/images/s2_lrg_cbr_profile.jpg
PRO Plus
http://www.skunk2.com/images/s2_lrg_cbr_projo.jpg
problem is nothing aftermarket can last thru the same heavy impacts that OEM parts can...be careful out there on the roads and track guys !
can you get separate adjustable ball joints which are safe?
you mean post #86, the one you uber not recommend? :p
yeah..
these Buddy Club ones jdmyard sell are good though.... my thorough research has revealed nothing defectable about these:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ghlight=camber
This is the one... i've bought SPC (Special products company) products before and their very high quality...
http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/126376...2151_67320.jpg
http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/12637619/aview/67320.jpg
http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/126376...7320_ill_b.jpg
http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/126376...7320_ill_a.jpg
well i ended up getting the bc front and rear kits for my ek
will get an alignment this week and see how it turns out :)
i have the pro plus on my car.. they do their job. does it what its supposed to do
however, when i bought this item brand new, may i say, quality control from skunk2 is FOCKING SHITHOUSE.. one of the arms were bent, and it was because it was welded on crooked.. i had to bash it out with mallet, and bend it, and it finally ended up fitting my car..
front -1
rear -1.3 as i havent rolled guards LOL
saves tyres !
doesnt dat ball joint thing throw the camber adjustments off for the vehicle?
am thinking to get the SPC Camber Bolt for my RB1 which was lowered abt 25mm, is it good and easy to adjust? can someone has experienced that?
What do you guys reakon of the new J's racing design?
Well apart from looking sexy ( cos they are grey with a J's sticker) They seem to be a very similar design. The locking mechanism looks basically the same. Same bracing underneath just with some funny jagged edges, but that dosnt matter.
However obviously that brace? between the back two bolt? Would that act like to washers joined together? And help brand and strengthen it?
Im glad you brought up this thread as I have found some great info
It seems I have done the opposite to many people. After upgrading my sussy ( now have buddyclub N+) and droping my ride height ( no room between guards and rubber ) I am now looking into a camber kit.
This is because I have got really bad tyre wear. To the point where I have a line of wear almost down to the canvas.
I discovered most of the damage just after buying the car( before the upgrade) as it just had medium kings on KYB shocks.
I assumed it was just badly out of alignment and after a new alignment ( with my upgrade ) it would improve. However they are still wearing at a big rate. .
I duno if I need a camber kit or not…
Sorry for my life story.
I just have afew questions.
Earlyer eg5civic asked about adjustable camber top on coilovers... Someone said they pretty much dont do anything ? Are they worth it?
Also, It has been said how easily the camber on ur front wheels can be altered ( run into a kerb or somthing). And thus you get a wheel alignment to fix it. However with a standard set up you cant adjust your camber...
How can you fix / adjust (then they do a wheel alighment ) the camber if its not adjustable...
In reguards to weather i need a camber it or not. According to what has been said. If I have a good alighment ( how do u know if ur getting a good one or not) and the toe is Zero then i shouldnt get any extra wear. However my tyres still wear badly after i had an alighment..... ( havnt checked to see if my sussy or somthing is bent, if thats what ur gonna say)
Finaly. My mate was saying that the bigger rims effects camber and tyre wear. With bigger rims u get smaller profile rubber so the other all Diamiter is the same as stock However the HUB is at a higher position with a larger rim.
Can anyone explain this better ?
Sorry for my confusing write up
thanks alot :)
One thing, camber tops on coilovers have absolutely no effect (shouldn't even be available) for most Hondas. The camber on most Hondas is controlled by the Upper Control Arm, coilovers on DC2's are mounted in a fixed position.
Since your tyres are still wearing quite badly after you've had an alignment then I would assume there is a much more dire problem behind the scenes. I'd get another alignment and get the printout for it as well because the previous alignment could have been a dodgy job.
The front wheels can be 'knocked' a bit out of place with a good kerbing but fixing it just means making sure everything is straight and secure, not really 'adjusting' it.
Yeah i know i need a print out. I had one but i cant seem to find it. Ill continue 2 look. :) cheers
But how and where do they straighten the alighment... Bash the wheel back straight with a hammer ? lol
There is probably some technical method that is hard 2 explain and i wont understand. But it dosnt make sence :P
anways.
Does anyone use Whiteline parts ?
This is what they offer...
http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/products/KCA378.jpg
Description: Camber adj kit - uppr c/arm
Note: 34mm OD bush +/- 1.0 deg
However what confuses me is that their recommended front camber settings are outside their kits range (ie >1 deg of negative camber)
They also have a caster kit
http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/products/KCA301.jpg
Description: Caster adj kit - lwr c/arm
Note: adds < +2.5 deg
Here's also an interesting read from Whiteline....
EG Handling Page 1
EG Handling Page 2
anyone else used the spc control arms before?
waiting to get some other parts done before i install the arms and get the alignment done
top nut is specified to be torqued to something like 120ft/lbs and is much thicker than most control arms out there that i've seen
Don't want to really change topic but still within discussion.
With adding the Roll Centre Adjusters, of whichever brand, what brands would be good to look at?
I've in previos post the SPC product, but any Australian Distributors?
I was looking at the Buddy Club one and J's Racing but wanted to see if any others to look at.
As for cambers i got a set of Buddy Club front and Skunk2 for the rears both of which haven't been installed yet. Any feedback on either of these?