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Penrite HPR 5
Semi-synthetic for the latest generation of high performance engines, particularly those with variable valve timing. Use where SAE 5W-30 or 10W-30 oils and ILSAC GF-3/GF-4 fuel economy oils are called for.
I just put this in recently but have been using FEO Honda oil.
Has anyone tried Bitron added to the oil? I tried in in my 92 Civic and that has done 340 000KM and the engine is still good.
Autobarn stock it, Repco and Supercheap Auto don't. I think it's around $100 for 4Litres (Motul Chrono 300V 10W-40)Quote:
Originally Posted by zhong
mates got a s2000 with 190kms on the clock what would use recomend 15w 40?
With the new motor I'm now running the edge 10-60.. See how we go.
just changed the oil in my s2000 for the first time
have to say its a great car to work with. oil bucket sitting under the sump plug also seems to be in the perfect position for the drain off from the oil filter.
everything is easy to access and easy to do. ! love working on a car which has had everything thought of and placed somewhere for a reason.
Yeah ahhh, wait till you do a clutch job. ;)
Or thermostat.
thermostat ill touch. clutch can go to the pros.
wow that thermostat looks like a bitch to get to.!
Yer, shitty design. Should be up the top.
How much litres of oil should I b pouring using feo 10w30 and is it necessary to fill the oil filter half way?
Any help would b great. Cheers
nah, would be very hard to do. you will be pouring it all out when your screwing it back onto the block anyway.
my car took a bit over 4.2 L i think
It may be personal preference but I fill the filter half way - the filtration medium inside the filter absorbs a lot of the oil that you pour in which stops it from pouring out when you screw it onto the block.Quote:
Originally Posted by ducbui91
i guess it cant hurt. just don't really see the point.
as soon as you start the engine it will pump oil through it.
air locks dont occur in the oil system as they would in the cooling system.
Don't you just jack the car up and get to it that way? It'd be more convenient being more accessible, but that doesn't make it a shitty design.Quote:
Originally Posted by ludecrs
Yeh, I don't see the point of it either!Quote:
Originally Posted by garett
In regards to accessibility, sure ; but by shitty design, I meant the actual thermostat / housing placement should be closer to the engine so circulation for the desired temperature is more accurate earlier on. Our thermostat placement is much like that of an SR20. On a nit picking point - sure it works, but it could be better. :)
Hmmm... Ok. So you're no longer providing a counter argument against garett's comment, but talking about something altogether, completely off-topic... :) Anyway, once the engine and coolant system is running, I can't imagine there'd be much variance/delay in response from the thermostat.
Its still an inconvenience when better placement would mean it wouldn't have to be...
Agreed :)
Hey guys,
Engine oil is sitting on low mark on dipstick. Got a service booked in, mechanic is 15 kms away. Will I make it there without having to top up the oil?
The low mark on the dip stick means a litre down. If you have some oil (and every S2000 owner should) top it up. If you haven't it will be ok.
Thanks dude. Only just got the car recently and didn't expect the oil to drop this quick.
Yeah lucky you checked as I spoke with Honda when I bought my S2000 about 18 months ago and they told me they had two S2000s in for engine rebuilds as the new owners did not see that the oil would drop so fast.Quote:
Originally Posted by boodgy
I checked my oil consumption and it drops about 1/2 way between the full to the low mark in 2000 to 2500km using Penrite HPR5 (or Honda FEO).
I changed my oil less than 1500km ago using Castrol edge 5w30. Its now below the low level so just went in my lunch break to pick some more up. This is the third time I've used this grade of oil from Castrol, and on all occassions between 2-3000 km's, it falls down to low in my car. Anyone know if I should be using a different grade since mine has clocked 163000km's?
anyone here tried out honda feo "ultra"? went into honda to grab an oil filter and saw it on display. its fully synthetic 5 or 10w-30 (cant exactly remember if its 5 or 10)
Used Honda OEM high performance oil, straight from peter warren. I think around $70? I forgot
Quote:
Originally Posted by boodgy
Yes I saw this too - will be putting it in when I have my next service.
I'm the same, my car was serviced 2-3000kms ago as well and I checked today and it was sitting under low. Can anyone suggest a better longer lasting oil?Quote:
Originally Posted by s2kjn
i also found that castrol 5w30 burnt very fast in mine too.
try using a thicker oil like 10w-40. ive been using Nulon for about 1k kms and still high on dipstick.
Just take it to Hanny's Performance. I think they use the Honda Oil for most cars. Works awesome!
However, I know another s2k who has been using 5w-30 and has had no problems with it going too low too quick :S
Using Penrite 15w- 40 (extra 10 to 50). So far so good, I have high K's.
I better check my 5w30 then hey!
Originally Posted by s2kjn
I changed my oil less than 1500km ago using Castrol edge 5w30. Its now below the low level so just went in my lunch break to pick some more up. This is the third time I've used this grade of oil from Castrol, and on all occassions between 2-3000 km's, it falls down to low in my car. Anyone know if I should be using a different grade since mine has clocked 163000km's?
i went to winton raceway on friday with my eg which has about the same amount of km's on it as your s2k and i tried out Nulon's 15w50 full synthetic oil, and having been using 10w60 edge sport for the last 15,000km, i felt the difference from first start up. the motor felt alot smoother, oil temps never got above average, holds pressure nicely and after 30 laps not a single bit was burnt off. i have started putting this oil into customers cars as well and they are all coming back with massive smiles on their faces. 5w-30 is definitely too thin for a motor that has clocked over 100,000km. try out the Nulon oil and let me know how you go with it
does it matter how many kms are on your engine when picking an oil. my next service is coming up and that will be 130,000km on the clock
I think if the engine is well maintained, you could just stay standard oil that you have been using the whole time.
But if it wasnt as well maintained, something like 10W-40 would be good?
atm, I am using Castrol 5W-30, but I might change it up for this 100K service I got happening soon.
maybe go 10W as well?.. hmmm
Definantly matters man. The older the car gets you wanna put a bit thicker oil.. if i where you i would go with a 15W..Quote:
Originally Posted by greek_rambos2k
Dammmnn 5W?? Risky for 100km on the clock imo..Quote:
Originally Posted by dlai5552
I've been using 5W-30 in my DC5R which has 138,000kms. it works fine :S
so yeah lol.
but I do consider changing.
well i was running castrol 5w30 when i first got it. ran really well but burnt oil fast. now on honda oil. i found that on the 5w30 i got better fuel economy. dunno why my driving style hasnt changed. done 4000km on the honda oil now and it says its still full
Nothing but.manufacturers.specs
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
^^^ lol i miss the spacebar when typing on my galaxy s too :P
so how does thinner oil effect an older engine? like why do you need to run 40 rather then 30. just wondering
Guys,
I have gone from Mobil 1 to Shell Helix Ultra and the oil burns quickloy esp when you high rev the car. A lot of people who do not high rev the car have said that their oil level is fine. I have changed to Cusco 5W-40 and it doesnt burn as much anymore esp when you freq high rev the car.
You've got to keep in mind that most engines don't rev to 9000 like ours. It puts a lot of strain on the engine and that's why burning oil is a common trait among s2000's. The solution is quite simple really, if you plan on using a thinner cheaper oil, don't rev it high. Otherwise, use some good quality thicker oil. I use royal purple 10W40, it went from the 'middle' mark down a quarter between 'low and middle' after 5000 km's with pretty hard driving and one track day. Like people have mentioned above, solid changing intervals and the engine will last.
I'm considering trying Royal Purple 10W-40. All this talk about Royal Purple, so I thought I might try it... however, still a bit indecisive on whether I should go 10W-40 or 5W-30.
Engine runs good and the Honda Oil in at the moment is only 5W.... even though it's coming up to 100Km's, I might stick with 5w-30, or does anyone want to debate?
SAE has hit the nail on the head! Spot on mate!
Guys please do not rev to 9000rpm, you achieve your max power and torque at around the 7000rpm mark!
Please use 5W-30 or 5@-40 if your engine compression is still good. Use 10W-40 for engines that are worn.
No point debating. Have tested the S2000 on my dyno and the power difference is there using a proper PAO 5W oil like Cusco 5W-40. I don't know much about Royal Purple as I have not used it but as long as it is 100% PAO, I will say give it a shot.
Currently have a S2k in my workshop that spun a bearing and worn piston rings. Hint hint: car has never skipped a Honda Schedule service and he brings his own Mobil 1 in for service at Honda. Please don't ask why? SAE has already answered.
Max power is at 8300 and to be around 8300 when you change up a gear you need to be at 9000 before change.Quote:
Originally Posted by mao
This car was designed to rev and rev it does. If you don't want to rev to 9000 rpm perhaps you'd be more happy in a Hyundai.
Mao, you're an automotive professional right? Care to explain what the number before the w is?Quote:
Originally Posted by mao
Here's a little help if you're having trouble with it:
http://www.funtrivia.com/askft/Question33842.html
And a bit more trivia for you. 0 degrees F is -18 degrees C. When is the last time it was -18 degrees over your way?
LOL. I use Repco 20w-50 with the bonus oil filter for $19.99. Bargain! Still runs a charm.
Hey, that is what I use.... in my 94 Falcon ute. I'd never use something that thick in my Honda.
wow id never do that...s2000s weren't meant to be cheaped out onQuote:
Originally Posted by ncmx5
I was told that the W "stands" for winter, and the 5W is better for colder areas in the world where it gets to like snowing stages, while 10W is good for our country because it's never that cold lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by AusS2000
In other news, I bought 10W-40 Royal Purple today for $90. This shit better work haha :)
I use 10-60 :pQuote:
Originally Posted by AusS2000
The W does stand for winter and the number before it is the viscosity at -18 degrees Celcius. Therefore it is totally irrelevant to us in Australia. Only the second number is important.
Even I know That and I am not a mechanic. I hope that the mechanics I take my car too knows it as well, if not, I'll question their qualifications......
Your right AUS, but viscosity VS temp is linear.. So it might not matter what it is at -18 deg Celcius, but it does matter at lets say 10 - 15 degrees (normal morning in Australia). So if viscosity of W is lets say 5 for oil X and 10 for oil Y but both oils have the same high temp viscosity, wouldnt there be a difference in the oil viscosity on start up??Quote:
Originally Posted by AusS2000
There is a technically a difference in viscosity at start up between 5 and 10, but in reality the difference in the flow profiles between the viscosities for Australian temperatures is insignificant to warrant much debate.
So to keep it simple, Xw-Y
X is the viscosity at start up - COLD
Y is viscosity under operating temperature (measured at 100 deg)
So unless you live in freezing cold climates or rev the crap out of your car when you start it up, you can run between 5-15w with nil problems - it's only valid for initial start up.
Once the engine is warm or at operating temp, value Y is the important one - higher Y = more viscous. If it's too low, it's too thin and if you're racing or something... you might not get enough lubrication leading to wear. Having a heavier oil is better for lubrication, but I believe it may impinge on fuel consumption and it may damage the oil pump as more viscous oil requires more pressure to push through thus again, consuming more power to pump.
just got a bottle of mobil 1 5w30. lets see how it goessss
Funny that. I just came back from lunch now and had this on the bench at the auto shop ready to pay for this after this guy was recommending me to get this with his life. Just before I was about to pay, a bloke said that he used to work for Honda and that they ALWAYS used 5w30! and I explained to him that I have used it 3 times in the past and have always seen my oil level drop. So I was now even more confused than ever. I dedcided to try out Nulon Fully Synthetic 10W40 and see how that goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by ludecrs
No it ain't. At least not in the 'Friction Modified' oils made for the last 40 years. How else do you explain the numbers on oil containers? 10w30 means the oil is more viscous (thicker) at 100 degrees than it is at -18.Quote:
Originally Posted by VeYzZii
S2kjn - good choice. There is no way in he'll I'd use molasses like 60 weight oil in my car.
Was so closo to getting it as well! lol
-nuked-
Motul 8100 XCESS "4lyfe!" hehe
I find Penrite HPR 30, a 20W-60 works beautifully in my old Triumph TR
I don't think anything reving very high would find it to it's liking.
wouldn't put that near the F20!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Hasbeen
I agree completely garett, that's why I said it was unsuitable for anything high revving.
I have a highly tuned, [300+ BHP] TR8, with all forged gear in one of the last 4.6L Rover V8. These are very dirty engines, with a habit of filling themselves up with carbon. Rocker covers can be caked with the stuff in just 15,000Km.
I use Penrite HPR 10 diesel in it, a highly detergent 5W30 synthetic. This would be more suitable for the Honda, although I'm using Honda oil at present.
There is an insane TR8 which i see in GT sportscars class still running the rover V8
and he sticks with GT3's!!
so says alot for the engine despite the carbon.
Penrite oils are good, and suited for Australian conditions. If they did one more compatible with my s2000 id highly consider it.
I don't know how old you are garett, but perhaps you are too young to know that the World championship Repco engine, in the Brabham Repco were using that block.
I had a very happy year driving around in front of one in a Brabham BT 23. Accidently pulled 11700 RPM in it when I tried going flat over the second hump, [before the chase was added] down Conrod, in practice. The thing took off & hit those revs. No rev limiter in those days. It didn't mind, & continued on much less perturbed than I was.
It was red lined at 9700, a bit like driving a Honda actually.
Of course the Honda sports car of the day was the S600, & they hit 11000 from memory
sooo ummm.... i'm on 140xxxkm...
what oil to use? motul or nulon?
They're both good brands. Just go for 30 or 40 weight.
No offense, but from your posts you dont actually know how oils work.Quote:
Originally Posted by AusS2000
Oils are much thinner when hot. When modifiers are used, you get the two numbers. Otherwise you would only get an oil with one number.
The first number is the rating that describes the oil at -18 celsius BUT it is also used to describe typical thicknesses at starting temperature. The lower the thinner.
Ideally, oil would be the right thickness at both start up and operating temperature, currently all oils are too thick for optimum protection at start up.
So the best thing you can do is get the lowest first number (0W for example) and the right second number to get the correct oil pressure at operating temps.
Unfortunately, oils that are thin will slip past piston rings, but going to a thicker oil will increase wear along with save oil burn.
I for one would rather have the protection :D
Then I'm guessing you haven't read many of my posts. I am very familiar with the nomenclature behind friction modified oils.
Are you inferring that I was suggesting a non-FM oil of 30 or 40 weight? Can you even buy such a thing in this day and age?
Just to clarify for the dummies, I was suggesting an Xw30 or Xw40 oil. I expect the options available from Nulon and Motul will have an X in the range of 0 to 10, but as gumus so eloquently mentioned this is the viscosity at -18 degrees C. I'm guessing that our starting temperatures will be at least 30 degrees above this level and therefore it has very little relevance so 0, 5, 10 it really don't matter.
I was referring to the posts numbered 141 and 135. They are completely wrong.
Oil is certainly not thicker at operating temp and the first number is very relevant.
Then please explain what the two numbers either side of the w mean. Is it not true that the higher the number the more resistance to flow (internal friction or viscosity) hence using 20w50 in older low revving engines?
My understanding is that simple fluids decrease viscosity (get thinner) with temperature fairly linearly. Hence traditional oils have a single viscosity number. Friction modifiers were introduced as a clever way of reversing this trend for a range of the temperature. Ah the wonders of modern science.
Happy to be re-educated.
Motul 8100 series is the way to go :-)
got a 6L of nulon 10w-40 for 60$.. supercheap had 5L for the same price so why not!
also went to Honda and got some mtf-06 for when I get my new clutch fitted
Oils get thinner as they get warmer. The numbers in the viscosity rating is not an absolute viscosity measurement. They are relative to the standard single SAE rated viscosity oil.
So a 5w-40 for example means that at -18ºC, the oil has the same viscosity as an SAE5 oil at -18ºC. It also means that at 100ºC, it has the same viscosity as a SAE40 oil at 100ºC. This is why the 5w-40 is called a multigrade oil.
If you take the oil spec sheet of any engine oil, it will tell you that. For example, here is the spec sheet for Motul's 8100 5w-40 oil. http://www.motul.com/system/product_...%205W40_GB.pdf
If you look at the viscosities measured at 40ºC and 100ºC, the 40ºC viscosity is already much much thicker than the viscosity at 100ºC. If you were to compare the -18ºC value (which is not mentioned in the spec sheet), that would be even thicker still.
The W signifies that the preceeding number is the cold specification of the oil. The second number is hot grade.Quote:
Originally Posted by AusS2000
They are not directly referring to viscosity although you can compare first and second numbers between oils. as in 5W-30 and 10W-30 have the same viscosity at high temp but the 10W is thicker at start up.
aaronng explains better.