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  1. #145
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    s2000
    Motul 8100 XCESS "4lyfe!" hehe

  2. #146
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Tamborine Qld
    Car:
    S2000
    I find Penrite HPR 30, a 20W-60 works beautifully in my old Triumph TR

    I don't think anything reving very high would find it to it's liking.

  3. #147
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    AP1 S2000
    Quote Originally Posted by Hasbeen View Post
    I find Penrite HPR 30, a 20W-60 works beautifully in my old Triumph TR

    I don't think anything reving very high would find it to it's liking.
    wouldn't put that near the F20!!

  4. #148
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Tamborine Qld
    Car:
    S2000
    I agree completely garett, that's why I said it was unsuitable for anything high revving.

    I have a highly tuned, [300+ BHP] TR8, with all forged gear in one of the last 4.6L Rover V8. These are very dirty engines, with a habit of filling themselves up with carbon. Rocker covers can be caked with the stuff in just 15,000Km.
    I use Penrite HPR 10 diesel in it, a highly detergent 5W30 synthetic. This would be more suitable for the Honda, although I'm using Honda oil at present.
    Last edited by Hasbeen; 14-07-2011 at 05:41 PM.

  5. #149
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    AP1 S2000
    There is an insane TR8 which i see in GT sportscars class still running the rover V8
    and he sticks with GT3's!!

    so says alot for the engine despite the carbon.

    Penrite oils are good, and suited for Australian conditions. If they did one more compatible with my s2000 id highly consider it.

  6. #150
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Tamborine Qld
    Car:
    S2000
    I don't know how old you are garett, but perhaps you are too young to know that the World championship Repco engine, in the Brabham Repco were using that block.

    I had a very happy year driving around in front of one in a Brabham BT 23. Accidently pulled 11700 RPM in it when I tried going flat over the second hump, [before the chase was added] down Conrod, in practice. The thing took off & hit those revs. No rev limiter in those days. It didn't mind, & continued on much less perturbed than I was.

    It was red lined at 9700, a bit like driving a Honda actually.

    Of course the Honda sports car of the day was the S600, & they hit 11000 from memory

  7. #151
    sooo ummm.... i'm on 140xxxkm...
    what oil to use? motul or nulon?

  8. #152
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    S2000
    They're both good brands. Just go for 30 or 40 weight.

  9. #153
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Car:
    5th Gen Prelude
    Quote Originally Posted by AusS2000 View Post
    They're both good brands. Just go for 30 or 40 weight.
    No offense, but from your posts you dont actually know how oils work.

    Oils are much thinner when hot. When modifiers are used, you get the two numbers. Otherwise you would only get an oil with one number.
    The first number is the rating that describes the oil at -18 celsius BUT it is also used to describe typical thicknesses at starting temperature. The lower the thinner.
    Ideally, oil would be the right thickness at both start up and operating temperature, currently all oils are too thick for optimum protection at start up.
    So the best thing you can do is get the lowest first number (0W for example) and the right second number to get the correct oil pressure at operating temps.
    Unfortunately, oils that are thin will slip past piston rings, but going to a thicker oil will increase wear along with save oil burn.
    I for one would rather have the protection

  10. #154
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    S2000
    Then I'm guessing you haven't read many of my posts. I am very familiar with the nomenclature behind friction modified oils.

    Are you inferring that I was suggesting a non-FM oil of 30 or 40 weight? Can you even buy such a thing in this day and age?

    Just to clarify for the dummies, I was suggesting an Xw30 or Xw40 oil. I expect the options available from Nulon and Motul will have an X in the range of 0 to 10, but as gumus so eloquently mentioned this is the viscosity at -18 degrees C. I'm guessing that our starting temperatures will be at least 30 degrees above this level and therefore it has very little relevance so 0, 5, 10 it really don't matter.

  11. #155
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Car:
    5th Gen Prelude
    I was referring to the posts numbered 141 and 135. They are completely wrong.

    Oil is certainly not thicker at operating temp and the first number is very relevant.

  12. #156
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    S2000
    Then please explain what the two numbers either side of the w mean. Is it not true that the higher the number the more resistance to flow (internal friction or viscosity) hence using 20w50 in older low revving engines?

    My understanding is that simple fluids decrease viscosity (get thinner) with temperature fairly linearly. Hence traditional oils have a single viscosity number. Friction modifiers were introduced as a clever way of reversing this trend for a range of the temperature. Ah the wonders of modern science.

    Happy to be re-educated.
    Last edited by AusS2000; 05-08-2011 at 10:16 PM.

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