Spot on. Lol hence why mine is offQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Printable View
Spot on. Lol hence why mine is offQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
yeah i've got that same problem on mine tooQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
i've always thought that my recaros were just f**k from the previous owner
but i guess not
Is anyone rockin low seat rails?
looking at vanners tuner special at around $250aud delivered. only know of rps.13 who has it
Why don't you guys check whether the bolts are loose?
Anyone know if a dying alternator could cause struggle start? My car sounds like it struggles a bit to start, it doesn't start instantly like it use to. It's not so bad in my car but I'm just really picky with little issues and my other EP3 seems to have the same issue as well.
Could be the battery wearing out, when i changed my battery to a higher CCA rating, it started almost instantly
I thought it would be the battery but my battery is almost brand new.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
So, my engine light came on yesterday. Car still runs without skipping a beat so I have no idea what it could be. I disconnected the battery for about a minute yesterday and that cleared the engine light. But, it came back on this morning - car still runs perfectly.
Can anyone suggest anything? How can I diagnose the error?
Whatever you do, do not disconnect the battery again. This makes diagnosing problems that much harder for a mechanic. Best bet would be to get an OBDII scanner connected to the car and find out what the problem is
Whoops. Ok, thanks stndrd. Is it safe to continue driving the car at the moment?Quote:
Originally Posted by stndrd
Should any mechanic have a OBDII?
It is safe to drive the car, provided you drive it carefully. Most mechanics have OBDII readers. What state are you located in so I can direct you to a workshop?
Darwin, NT. :(
Don't know anyone up there unfortunately. Best bet would be go and see Honda
A couple blokes from a Darwin car enthusiast group on Facebook has offered to help clear it :)
Just installed a Jackson racing supercharger and on my first start i could see the car was about to overheat on kpro (100' Celsius), i notice the coolant is not circulating at all and the fans aren't cooling... what could be the problem? I've checked all plugs and they're all in the correct place and properly in. Waterpump isn't making any funny noises either...
Make sure you've bled the system properly! Google some guides on how to do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
I can't even burp it since nothing is circulating... I have a feeling it's the thermostat thats stuck closed, so i tried to unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the housing; only to find i've crossthreaded it some how... all three of them.. i dont even know how
its your tstat not opening. do it few times until bottom hose or bottom part of radiator starts to get hot.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
once tstat fully opens, you can bleed coolant properly and all should be fine and yolo.
im guessing u have aftermarket aluminium rad? bit more hard to get these kinda hotQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
also, where do you have your fan switch located if using aftermarket rad?
It's the tegiwa radiator, everything is positioned pretty much the same as stock. The problem is that none of the old coolant is flowing thru the lower radiator hose or into the upper radiator hose to the engine block, its like the thermostat is not opening. last thing i wanna do is replace the water pumpQuote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
edit: my ect is going over 100 degrees, thermostat should have opened at around 89 degrees. I also notice the engine bay gets really hot
i know what youre talking abt, happens to me all the timeQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
its easier to do it few times so coolant heats up as a whole.
if bottom part of your radiator or lower hose is cool, tstat most likely will not open even though temp of coolant in head is 100c
FEEL the lower part of radiator or lower rad hose. if cold, tstat not opening.
I had a look at the pump and the pulley seems fine, no leaks or worn bearings. Tested the tstat in boiling water and it opens up. What i think it might be is an airlock in the engine block. Theres no water/coolant behind the thermostat so it can't open up since there's nothing to heat it up. Possibly? Gonna get the car towed to mechanic to do a powerflush and see if it helps.
Why not just fill the block thru the top hose?
Got the cooling problem fixed. Now Just gotta sort out the CEL light. Getting code p1259 telling me the vtec solenoid is bugged and going into limp mode. Might just take it apart to get the screen cleaned, anyone know how roughly much oil will drip out?
Update: I'm using a krpo base map with the k20a2 running jsrc. Could that be causing my cel to come up? Found out the jdm k20a doesn't have a vtec oil pressure switch. I unchecked it from kpro but it still comes up as soon as I erase it
Anyone know how I would go with fitting
Front - 17X8 +40-45 with 225/40-45/17
Rears - 17X9 +40-45 with 245/40-45/17
Stock height, stock camber.
Front experience if your running 17x8 +42 in the rear will be very close to your trail arms (what you call them sorry).
Will FN2 recaros bolt straight onto the EP3 stock rails? Someone on here had them, can't remember who
Why do you want to run wider on the rear? It will make the car understeer moreQuote:
Originally Posted by viett
stanswokQuote:
Originally Posted by stndrd
no stans no chans
I thought the rears would be able to clear wider wheels?Quote:
Originally Posted by stndrd
If not then would
Front - 17X9 +42 with 245/40/17
Rears - 17X8 +45 with 225/45/17
Clear? If not what kind of modifications would I need to clear it?
No kind of modification will make that setup work.Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
Spacers?
Nah. Better suggestion is to buy wheels that fit. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by stienerv2
You're right. Spacers are cheating.
Oh my god you're right captain obvious!Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
I am. Don't be bitter because you didn't do your research before purchasing wheels.Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
Don't jump to conclusions assuming I brought the wheels to fit my car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
I brought them cause they were dirt cheap; if they fit then it would be a bonus, if not then I would just make some money off it.
So get off your high horse dickhead.
No need to get bitter and be a wanker after asking for help. They won't fit your car. Go make some money from it.Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
Don't be upset. It's Christmas. Think of all those less fortunate who don't have wheels at all. Even though they're in spastic specs, at least you have a set.Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
Brought.
Alright my bad, bought*Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
Oh yes because this is suddenly all about me not appreciating my wheels? I never said that to begin with so where are you getting this whole Christmas argument from?
All I asked was If there was a way to fit the wheels on; instead of being a dickhead you could have simply said 'No these wheels won't fit perhaps you should try 17x blah blah'
But instead you acted like you were some sick ****.
No need for the offensive language mate.
Maybe you should have searched first or go through the "FD/FN2/EP3 Wheel Setup Guide" thread to see if the wheels will fit. Or even check the DC5 fitments cause they are similar. A lot of people are sick of answering questions about wheels because someone else has asked it before and the answer is always stick to +35.
Just by looking at Symphorced's DP, he has clearly played around with wheels on a EP3 before so he will have some knowledge about fitment. So why don't you get some manners and search before you ask silly questions.
What argument? I'm trying to tell you to have a Merry Christmas.Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
Come on guys anymore argument I'm deleting posts.
wow.......... this escalated quickly
Merry Xmas All :D
Merry Xmas to you as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSteve
Contemplating on getting a mugen grille, but one part of me says it looks good and the other part says it looks out of place..
even genuine mugen grill doesnt really sit flush
Genuine grilles sit 100% more flush than any replica ones I've seen. Worth the money to go genuine.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
Agreed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
Assuming you don't have panel beating skills, the money you save on a cheaper copy will be spent on modifying the (likely) poorly fitting piece anyway.
not perfectly though just my opinion but i think it only looks decent if its moulded onto the bumper itself. some guys in the uk have done
ill find pic later when im on pc
Theres no chance they will fit. Case closed. Stupid questionQuote:
Originally Posted by viett
Hey guys i think I blew my cat out cause there is a rattle coming from the exhaust piping but I got no fault codes, also drop in power after 6k big time would A blown cat do this ?
i just got my Hasport mounts installed in yesterday
and i found out it only came with 3 mounths instead of 4
is there a way on just getting the 4th mount from somewhere else?
I bought mugen mounts which came in 3 and just bout a separate hasport Mount on eBay.Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
which 3 mounts did the mugen come in? the 2 on the side and one at the back?Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
the hasport one doesnt have the one at the front and from what my friend said, the one at the front is just a supporting mount which isnt as important
hey guys,
pulley belt is giving me grief. tried to search in this thread for the size but cant seem to find it... anyone know how long the belt is for a jdm ep3r?
mugen mounts come with front and 2 sides. No rear in the kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
Steve is correct. I bought hasport 62a rear mount.
thanks for that steveQuote:
Originally Posted by SuperSteve
the hasport doesnt come with the front! :/
would anyone here know where i can source an aftermarket front mount only?
Did a quick search and looks like u can get an innovative front mount 60a for about $165 delivered.Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
where did find the search?Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
I found some on Ebay but it was a bit more expensive than your 165
If this is the belt that goes past the alternator, then search harder. I've answered this question to Steve a few pages back.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyy168
I searched ep3 front motor mountQuote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
found it! thanks stienerv2Quote:
Originally Posted by stienerv2
should have got hard race mounts! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
hardrace not stiff enough imo. not race car feelQuote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyy168
anyway bit clueless here. RPS.13 has BHR67Z rear sway on his ep3
according to whiteline site BHR67Z (dc5) and BHR91Z (ep3) looks to be very similar, if not the same. however one is $299 and one is $265. dc5 and ep3 shares the same rsb afaik. wat the fuk, am i missing something here?
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=BHR67Z
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=BHR91Z
I'm sure we can use dc5r rear sways on our cars. I've a got a tanabe RSX on my ep3 at the moment.
can anyone check their crankshaft pulley at warm idle to see how it spins? Is it spinning smoothly and straight or does it have a slight wobble to it? recently changed to a bigger second hand k24 pulley to up the boost for my JRSC but it seems to be slightly wobbling; but straightens out above 1k rpm :S thinking i might have got a lemon pulley and its out of balance
My crank pulley on DC5 is spinning smoothly. No wobble.
Definitely shouldnt wobble
yikessss, can't be good for the motor.
welp... time to buy a new pulley to see if it fixes the problem then. hopefully its just the pulley and not something bent in the engine or something D: cheers
What are your thoughts about buying 2nd hand BC BR's roughly 1 year old? Or should I just continue saving up for new ones?
buy new.
That was my initial thought but I've started steering towards the idea of buying the 2nd hand coils for track day coming up. It'll be the first time I'm tracking so If I really like the whole idea of tracking I'll eventually save up for better coils in the future.Quote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
Just really wanted to know if coils wear out quickly or should a set of one year old BCBRs last me a while until I get more coin?
You're better off buying new coils if you want the best out of it, not just for tracking but also for daily. I wouldn't buy a second hand part that's subjected to all kinds of abuse (both user, mechanical and environmental) and wear and tear. Especially on such a vital part of the car. But that's just my opinionQuote:
Originally Posted by viett
Ah true true, in that case which coils would you recommend? I hear that BC BRs are good but aren't the greatest for track purposes.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
I'm looking for a daily that would perform well on the tracks.
There is an upside to buying used coils though, you can be sure that they aren't gonna break when you put them in.
Sure they might wear out sooner, but that's why you just take them apart and rebuild them
If they're rebuildable and if there is someone in the country to do a proper job of rebuilding them. Beware of suspension joints that claim they can rebuild any coilover, ensure they use the parts direct from manufacturer and to manufacturer specs, otherwise you'd be blowing a good deal of $$$ for a crap refresh that will last you less than 6mths...Quote:
Originally Posted by Chernoby1