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17-12-2013 06:55 PM
#15937
I can't even burp it since nothing is circulating... I have a feeling it's the thermostat thats stuck closed, so i tried to unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the housing; only to find i've crossthreaded it some how... all three of them.. i dont even know how
vtak + jrsc = bwwaaaahinneeeee
IF GUNS don't kill people, people kill people does that mean that toasters don't toast toast, toast toast toast?
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17-12-2013 06:59 PM
#15938
Originally Posted by UNA91
Just installed a Jackson racing supercharger and on my first start i could see the car was about to overheat on kpro (100' Celsius), i notice the coolant is not circulating at all and the fans aren't cooling... what could be the problem? I've checked all plugs and they're all in the correct place and properly in. Waterpump isn't making any funny noises either...
its your tstat not opening. do it few times until bottom hose or bottom part of radiator starts to get hot.
once tstat fully opens, you can bleed coolant properly and all should be fine and yolo.
S P A M | W O R K S
With our special rotational tires, it will allow you to drive very fast. - JK Tyre
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17-12-2013 07:01 PM
#15939
Originally Posted by UNA91
I can't even burp it since nothing is circulating... I have a feeling it's the thermostat thats stuck closed, so i tried to unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the housing; only to find i've crossthreaded it some how... all three of them.. i dont even know how
im guessing u have aftermarket aluminium rad? bit more hard to get these kinda hot
also, where do you have your fan switch located if using aftermarket rad?
S P A M | W O R K S
With our special rotational tires, it will allow you to drive very fast. - JK Tyre
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17-12-2013 07:27 PM
#15940
Originally Posted by mocchi
im guessing u have aftermarket aluminium rad? bit more hard to get these kinda hot
also, where do you have your fan switch located if using aftermarket rad?
It's the tegiwa radiator, everything is positioned pretty much the same as stock. The problem is that none of the old coolant is flowing thru the lower radiator hose or into the upper radiator hose to the engine block, its like the thermostat is not opening. last thing i wanna do is replace the water pump
edit: my ect is going over 100 degrees, thermostat should have opened at around 89 degrees. I also notice the engine bay gets really hot
Last edited by UNA91; 17-12-2013 at 09:15 PM.
vtak + jrsc = bwwaaaahinneeeee
IF GUNS don't kill people, people kill people does that mean that toasters don't toast toast, toast toast toast?
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17-12-2013 09:35 PM
#15941
Originally Posted by UNA91
It's the tegiwa radiator, everything is positioned pretty much the same as stock. The problem is that none of the old coolant is flowing thru the lower radiator hose or into the upper radiator hose to the engine block, its like the thermostat is not opening. last thing i wanna do is replace the water pump
edit: my ect is going over 100 degrees, thermostat should have opened at around 89 degrees. I also notice the engine bay gets really hot
i know what youre talking abt, happens to me all the time
its easier to do it few times so coolant heats up as a whole.
if bottom part of your radiator or lower hose is cool, tstat most likely will not open even though temp of coolant in head is 100c
FEEL the lower part of radiator or lower rad hose. if cold, tstat not opening.
S P A M | W O R K S
With our special rotational tires, it will allow you to drive very fast. - JK Tyre
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19-12-2013 12:30 PM
#15942
I had a look at the pump and the pulley seems fine, no leaks or worn bearings. Tested the tstat in boiling water and it opens up. What i think it might be is an airlock in the engine block. Theres no water/coolant behind the thermostat so it can't open up since there's nothing to heat it up. Possibly? Gonna get the car towed to mechanic to do a powerflush and see if it helps.
vtak + jrsc = bwwaaaahinneeeee
IF GUNS don't kill people, people kill people does that mean that toasters don't toast toast, toast toast toast?
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19-12-2013 10:34 PM
#15943
Why not just fill the block thru the top hose?
Kermit EGK20A
Winton: 1:35.08
Wakefield: 1:08.8
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20-12-2013 05:28 PM
#15944
Got the cooling problem fixed. Now Just gotta sort out the CEL light. Getting code p1259 telling me the vtec solenoid is bugged and going into limp mode. Might just take it apart to get the screen cleaned, anyone know how roughly much oil will drip out?
Update: I'm using a krpo base map with the k20a2 running jsrc. Could that be causing my cel to come up? Found out the jdm k20a doesn't have a vtec oil pressure switch. I unchecked it from kpro but it still comes up as soon as I erase it
Last edited by UNA91; 21-12-2013 at 10:26 AM.
vtak + jrsc = bwwaaaahinneeeee
IF GUNS don't kill people, people kill people does that mean that toasters don't toast toast, toast toast toast?
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22-12-2013 09:11 AM
#15945
Anyone know how I would go with fitting
Front - 17X8 +40-45 with 225/40-45/17
Rears - 17X9 +40-45 with 245/40-45/17
Stock height, stock camber.
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22-12-2013 04:54 PM
#15946
Front experience if your running 17x8 +42 in the rear will be very close to your trail arms (what you call them sorry).
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22-12-2013 08:54 PM
#15947
Will FN2 recaros bolt straight onto the EP3 stock rails? Someone on here had them, can't remember who
KEEP IT VIET | KEEP IT JDM FaLL iN LoVe WheN YoU aRe ReAdY, NoT WhEN YoU ARe LOnEly
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22-12-2013 11:40 PM
#15948
Originally Posted by viett
Anyone know how I would go with fitting
Front - 17X8 +40-45 with 225/40-45/17
Rears - 17X9 +40-45 with 245/40-45/17
Stock height, stock camber.
Why do you want to run wider on the rear? It will make the car understeer more
Kermit EGK20A
Winton: 1:35.08
Wakefield: 1:08.8
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