Lol I've always rebuilt mine diy style. If planning to do it diy, stay away from tien as they refuse to sell components to public so I was forced to use bilstien bits... Took a while to measure everything up.
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Lol I've always rebuilt mine diy style. If planning to do it diy, stay away from tien as they refuse to sell components to public so I was forced to use bilstien bits... Took a while to measure everything up.
Fulcrum not willing to sell parts to you?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chernoby1
At the time, they said they couldnt get the bits i needed. Maybe the parts were already discontinued (highly possible).
Edit: Car was a 280ZX.
Ohhhhhh, the 280ZX, definitely discontinued, they'd be on a custom basis iirc... Even from Tein JP...
BC Racing coilovers are cheap enough already brand new.
I wouldn't even bother rebuilding them. Just buy a new one if any start leaking.
yo tim
you ran 17x8.5 +30 at some stage yeah? can i pull it off with -1 all round on 215/45? i know 225/45 needs a bit more neg
Im assuming all guards are rolled?
I think you can pull it off......
I was on tein springs with 17*9+35 and 215/45 and it was okay. I scrubbed at the fronts cause my shock absorbers were worn. Rears were fine
Fronts will clear fine. Rears you shooould be ok depending on what tyre you run. I had -2.5 camber on the rear with 225/45 and still scrubbed like crazy with Hankook RS3s (massive sidewalls) but have heard of others not having any issues whatsoever with same setup and different brand of tyres.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
Yeah will be rolled n trimmed. What camber were you running on that setup though? Natural would have been more -2 or more at the rearQuote:
Originally Posted by stienerv2
Anyone try Brembo brake pads yet? Any goooot?
From memory, my natural camber was only -1.5. It didn't get past -2 for meQuote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
WOOOW ALL YOU guys got it easy on the rear.
what do you mean Perry?
Hey Guys. Went to look at my cabin filter today (behind the glove box) and noticed the trays were both empty. Anyone know if all honda cabin/pollin filters are the same ??
yeah pretty sure they are n8Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSteve
$20 from ebay US says it fitted all honda and acuras
It was $17 from Mekong in Canley
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...85448607_n.jpg
thanks guys :)
So I got my oem headlights retrofitted and modded. Now have true quad projectors, dual high beam (not quad), full black satin finish and red projector lenses (white light output) to match red honda badge.
Will post better pictures of light output, colour band at cut off, red lenses etc when we have a nice clear day here in Darwin - we're on cyclone watch at the moment and should have a few days of overcast, rainy weather!
Attachment 26216
Attachment 26217Attachment 26218Attachment 26217
Wow looks pretty good. Keen to see how they look a bit further away in daylight
Thanks doosra :)Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
Looks pretty aggressive, IMO. I think I might need a carbon/black bonnet to blend it in more though.
Depends which specs...Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
Like most reputable brands, most good some best avoided...
Referring to fitment on wheels.Quote:
Originally Posted by stienerv2
But i don't have it easy lol. You got it Easy!
Dude those headlights look really good! If your ep3 was black it'll be devil like!
Thanks Mikey! Would look even better on a black ep3 but having a black ep3 in Darwin is suicide - you'd get cooked alive! The sun up here is INTENSE and the humidity is hellish!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyy168
On another note, will DC5's o2 sensors work on our EP3s?
Just picked up some RPF1's 17x8.5+30 with 245/40/17 all around, rears scrub a bit on harsh bumps.
Any pics buddy?Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
I'll get some pics up ASAP, Melbourne weather is not very friendly at the moment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
does a cold air intake for a dc5 fit ep3?
Hi guys im looking for a facelift reverse globe holder to do a taillight conversion. I cant seem to find a part number anywhere. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Hey guys, I need some technical advise from fellow ep3r owners. Im in the process of gathering parts to do a full gearbox rebuild and just wanted some clarification whether my NPR3 gearbox runs a single or multi cone synchro for 5-6 gear. Its a 2003 type r.
From memory the 03 run a single cone
Is there a way to confirm through the gearbox part number?
Not really. Only if you had a Japanese Honda parts catalouge or you strip the box down
From what ive read, 1-2 is triple cone, 3-4 is dual cone and 5-6 is single...but that was just some of the kits they were selling from USA.
Can anyone recommend a workshop that might know?
Check amayama.com / http://honda.epc-data.com they have the japanese car parts catalogue.
Bought stuff from them before and very useful reference too.
Are you rebuilding with OEM components?
Might be using synchrotech carbon pro series depending on price.
Thanks for the link.
With the link, is the 2003 ep3 an aba-ep3 or la-ep3?
Synchrotech I find are cheaper than OEM synchros and much better quality
Out of curiosity how are they better quality? different material?
With the inner surface of the synchro being carbon, it has a better surface contact than the standard bronze. The carbon also lasts longer than bronze, meaning they dont wear as quickly and promote smoother shifting at high rpm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TOUGE-ITR
03, is la-ep3 since it's a prefacelift.
Facelifted 04 and onwards is aba-ep3.
You can search by your chassis number as well. for example you could type in EP31000478 and it'll match the correct one for you.
Interesting.Quote:
Originally Posted by stndrd
Are there any disadvantages? For example, does it also shift smoother if not equal to OEM in lower rpm range? Would it require uprated MTF for this work well?
I have been using Synchrotech Carbon synchro's for the last 6 months (have rebuilt approx 8 boxes in this time) and have not had a single issue with one of them. They have better engagement angles than OEM as well which means its easier for the slider to move over them.
I use Penrite oil's in my shop and for a car that gets driven like a baby, I use Penrite Trans Gear 75W80 (semi synthetic / direct replacement for Honda MTF) otherwise I use Penrite Pro Gear 75W85 (full synthetic) for cars that get driven fairly hard. Both oils do not cause any harm to the synchros
Yeah they seem to have excellent reviews on them.
Hey stndrd, is your ep3 a preface? If so, is 5 - 6 single or double cone?
I have a EP3R engine/gbox in my EG Civic. I do not currently have my gbox apart so I cannot confirm. Let me get in contact with Synchrotech and find out
EDIT: 5/6 run a double cone synchro
If you need them supplied, or any other gearbox parts, let me know
Pm sent Stndrd...thanks.
Aight kids, I'm back from the dead. Finally stopped punting my EP from the Sunny Coast to Brisbane erry day and it's time to show her some love.
Talk to me about Primary O2 sensors. Best place to buy, what should I be paying and all that gear?
Proper service manual (not the US one) would be handy too?
Oh, and a tall busty blonde too while you are at it . . . . lol
Thanks in advance.
I bought a denso o2 sensor of Amazon for about $140 shipped. I think it was DENSO part # 234-9005 (I think? ). Honda dealers apparently charge about 300+Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
Thanks mate. I've done a bit of digging and that seems to be the part number for the secondary sensor.
Can anyone confirm? And has anyone had any issues with cheaper sensors as opposed to OEM? The OEM is probably a bloody Denso anyway is it?
OEM is a Denso but it comes in Honda packaging which is worth an extra 80%
I figured as much, I don't suppose anyone can confirm the part number for a primary 02 sensor?
If you plan on getting OEM the part no for tne JDM K20a primary sensor is 36531-PRB-A01, same as the JDM DC5.Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
Trying to avoid going OEM if there is no difference between them and the Denso ones on Amazon. I just need to make sure I'm buying the right one. The part number you listed looks as though its the secondary sensor, I don't suppose you have the box lying around anywhere so I can confirm? I'm on a pretty tight budget these days so I want this to be a one shot deal, I don't want to have to re-enter negotiations with the minister for all things financial . . .Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Thanks again for your help.
hey guys, been looking for a driver side mirror for our car. Could you let me know if you have one or knows anyone with one. Thanks!
Went for a drive before and the first time I selected the Reverse gear it wasn't engaged, Had the gear in R and as I let out the clutch nothing happened. So I had to get out of R then back into it again. After this it all seemed normal.
Anybody have this happened before? Car hasn't been driven in about a week but that shouldn't be a problem?
Might be a sign that the clutch hydraulics (master or slave clutch cylinders) showings it age.
Has it happened again since? If not it's probably a once off otherwise might try renewing your clutch fluid on your next service or something.
Nah has not happened since, believe it was the first time too
Thanks I'll try that next service
Hey guys, if anyone has done the conversion to JDM HID facelift headlights, can help me out? I'm collecting the parts slowly, just wondering which parts i'll actually need as I don't want to overbuy but don't want to go back and forth when it comes to installing either. Found bits of info here and there but not many people have done this so it's a bit of a headfk
Afaik this is what I need, feel free to point out anything i've missed
JDM LHS+RHS headlight 33101-S5T-J71 33151-S5T-J71
HID igniters 33129-S2A-J01
HID control units 33119-S2A-J01 (are the igniters and control units the same as pre-facelift to reuse?)
D2S low beam bulb (reuse pre-facelift)
HB3 high beam bulb
High beam HB3 socket 33115-S84-A01
High beam rubber cover 33126-S6A-J61
Parker light T10 socket 33305-S5A-003
Indicator socket 33303-SAA-003
Low beam gasket 33145-SL0-A01
Low beam cover 33127-S6A-J71
http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/...RHeadLight.jpg
Hey everyone. So installing a set of Energy Suspension polyurethane engine mount inserts today and my mechanic noticed that the front engine mount is broken. We're going ahead with the insert install as it'll help hold it together. My question - should I replace the engine mount or will the inserts give it enough integrity?
Hi, I have a set with complete wiring harness ready to go. PM me if interested.Quote:
Originally Posted by iQQ
how much is a mugen wing for ep3 is worth?
genuine would be fetching around 1k in good nick as theyre discontinuedQuote:
Originally Posted by integraR
a good fitting rep painted maybe 400
You can just buy the complete set instead of buying them individually. Unless you have bought a incomplete set.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
:/ Where from? I've only got the headlights itself so far lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Perry
http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/ho...E&year_53=2002Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
out of curiosity for those with gauges, what's your oil temp at normally when driving?
Pretty sure I've seen a few sets on Yahoo JP...Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
Ebay.co.uk, EP3's are abundant in the UK so if you haggle with the sellers you could probably get a pair of FL lights for under 100 pounds and around 100 pounds shipping. Still works out cheaper; that's what I would have done but my mates going UK soon so his just going to bring me back a pair instead.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
Ill ask Peter he posted a link to a site which supplies the whole headlight which I was originally planning on doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
Check on Japan's eBay too. I bought a pair of genuine preface lift headlights for $10 each lol
For people going after for facelift headlights, just be aware that there is a difference between the UKDM and JDM facelift headlights.Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
The UKDM facelift headlights uses h4 halogens not HID, so therefore it is unlikely that you are able to reuse your existing HID bulbs unless one decides to change the OEM HIDs with aftermarket h4 HIDs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyy168
Another note is that Ling's Honda does not stock the JDM headlight. Only the UKDM headlight. I know of a friend who has been burnt by this.
For the JDM headlight I would think it is best to enquire amayama.com. They sell brand Honda genuine parts.
If amayama's price is too high, quote the exact Honda part number you need and ask Jessestreeter for a price quote. He might be able to source cheaper prices for brand new OEM parts from Japan.
Good luck
anyone have any ideal locations for mount an oil cooler? was thinking maybe behind the front impact bar for safety reasons... (low oil pressure = gg engine)
What sort of temps are you seeing on the gauges?Quote:
Originally Posted by andhey
mine sits around 80'c crusing, but on highway with the engine constantly at 4k rpm and spirited driving it goes up to 90'c
JC I can confirm the part number listed by UNA91 is for the primary sensor. Same part number as listed on the box I got from JDMYard.Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...psaslkmkmp.jpg
I didn't want to buy an OEM primary sensor due to the price, but had to coz of the short time frame I had at the time.
Fantastic, thanks Mike!
You guys rock, thats Vvvtec.
Glad to help!