hi just wondering what ecu i have the build year is 91 and my vin no. looks like JHMEG218OOS######, from what i have read this is the P75 OBD-1?
thanks in advance
Printable View
hi just wondering what ecu i have the build year is 91 and my vin no. looks like JHMEG218OOS######, from what i have read this is the P75 OBD-1?
thanks in advance
On your engine harness are the plugs clear/yellow or grey? The latter is OBD-1.
so i officially hate honda's brake proportioning valves ><
I went through making this swap, good not so long ago (car had just been slammed on itr front knuckles).Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
you want to get a new pair of front wheel bearings to suit da9.
then you get the front itr hubs machined to suit your new da9 wheel bearings.
and then press the itr hub/da9wheel bearings onto your standard da9 front knuckles.
this will give you an oem alignment at standard ride height.
oh yeah and watch out for gutter rash, this widens the track of your da9.
brake proportioning valve doesn't need to be changed, but the master cylinder does if you want real nice pedal feel.
rear you just bolt up the itr trailing arms and you're done.
Hey all,
Thought I'd throw this open to the forum as I need some opinions. I'm currently riding on Koni Yellow/ Ground Control combo with camber kit and looking to add a bit more to my suspension.
These are the options I'm thinking of:
1. ASR subframe brace with 24mm rear sway (approx$390US ex deliv.)
2. ST combo front (24mm) and rear(19mm) sway bars (approx $280US ex deliv)
3. Some form of front strut bar + just the 19mm rear sway from ST with no subframe brace (approx $300-350US ex deliv)
What do you reckon is the best bang for buck here? Is the front sway worth doing at the same time as the rear? I wish I was made of money and
could just go for the obvious - buy all of them! lol. Opinions appreciated, even more so if you've run any of these parts before.
Thx, Joe.
I was running exactly the same set up... although I dont have experience with all 3 combos above, i did find that a quality front strut brace + rear sway made a real noticeable difference to my handling
Cheers appreciate the feedback. Yeah cars feels really nice once its in the corner but would be good to minimise some of that initial body roll on turn in. I'm guessing the rear sway would help that?
And a little extra stability in the front could be found from the Front upper strut?
Would the difference be significant between say a Megan racing (cheapo) and Cusco Front strut? Oh yeah... did you upgrade the front sway too?
Thx mate.
if u want less roll then u need both front and rear sway bar.
strut doesn't stop ur car from rolling..only stops ur car from flexing while its rolling
strut will make the steering and the turn in tighter
sway will keep the car flatter
Leave the front swaybar stock and upgrade the rear. Roll resistance at either end will reduce body roll, and adding it at the rear will help reduce some understeer.
Strut bars are one of the worst bang for buck mods you can do.
Hey Jon,Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_51
have you changed out the MC for a DC2R one? Did you swap the whole Booster/MC combo or just swap the MC? I have just upgraded to 282mm fronts and it does feel slightly mushy at first but when you press the pedal a bit more it bites really well. I dont feel that modulating the brake is an issue at all either.
Just wondering if it is worth the hassle of getting in there to swap it all out (tis a bitch to access)
Hmm thx for the advice guys. Maybe I'd be better off investing a little more in the rear sway ( asr with brace perhaps ?) and leave the front sway and strut for now?
How big do you think you can go in mm before a subframe brace is required?
ST have a 19mm
Progressive make a 22mm
ASR offer a 24mm with subframe brace
Thx for the tips ay.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53696
Mr_will has a 24mm brace without the asr brace, althought it does have some sorte of bracketing.