Yes mate. Only block you can't use is the D17.
But all the common D's work fine.
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Yes mate. Only block you can't use is the D17.
But all the common D's work fine.
Finished my manual conversion wow what a diff car feels Soooo much faster
yep will work, just need to remove the oil squirter on the block.Quote:
Originally Posted by mugen_ctr
Ahhh cheers guys helps alot knwing that
Quote:
Originally Posted by mugen_ctr
here's the classic swap DIY. Dun forget the vtec wiring, and GL with that bastard crank pulley
http://www.civicforumz.com/civic-diy...-d16y8-171470/
ahh much appreciated cheersQuote:
Originally Posted by Mikecivic78
grab a D16y5 out of a VTI sedanQuote:
Originally Posted by mugen_ctr
should be almost a straight swap
ahh cheers bro, much appreciatedQuote:
Originally Posted by TheSaint
D16y5 is the econo box ek sohc vtec motor. It only makes 88kw. You dont want that one.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSaint
What you need is a D16y8(from the ej coupe), which makes 93kw, and a smidgen more torque
not entirely true - the D16y5 and D16y8 are almost the same
they are both from VTI models of the EK/EJ platform
the D16y5 is from the sedan and the D16y8 is from the coupe
(dont quote wickipedia as their entry for the D16y5 doesnt reflect the specs of the audm VTI engine)
the major difference is the gearbox - which is tricky because they are both stamped as being S40 B000
the 'B000' part is usually reserved for the better ratio box's (ie D16y1, D16z6 and JDM D15b)
but the D16y5 has the poorer strength and ratios
the only big engine related difference is the intake manifold and vtec system
although it has vtec-e is is alot more aggressive than the old VEI system
it is more similar to the UK 3 stage vtec - can easily be modded to put down as much power as a D16y8
the D16y8 has a larger intake manifold plenum as well
but the head flow, injectors, ecu, cam etc etc are almost identical
the econo box engine from that era is the D16y4 - which is a pile of crap and has the most annoying wiring/ecu setup out of any honda
it also has a weaker and crapper ratio gearbox
Is it at all possible to swap the D15B7 for a D16Y8 without changing transmission?
yeah pretty sure its just plug and play
Awesome.
Although I'd need the ECU and Loom yeah? How hard are they to find?
shit i thought u meant boxes sorry mate these are the things you need http://www.hondatech.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=771
cheers man, thats pretty much what i was after. Just gotta scrounge up the cash now...
Lotto come at me
really?? you win the lotto and go for d16y8?
For a daily, yeah.
Then build a beast of an S2K for track days
really?? you win the lotto and go for an s2k?
http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/...75/621/3d4.jpg
Contemplating a D15B4 rebuild. Anyone see anything wrong with the following?
New stock PM3 pistons 0.020" oversize, stock head gasket,
New bearings, oil pump, etc.
0.060" off head (should bring comp up to 10.8-11:1) and recon (maybe mild porting)
Bisimoto stage 2 non vtec cams, springs & cam gear
40 or 45mm dual carbs (webers or dellorto's)
Also with the above, how much power would you expect? 80-85kW or am I hoping for too much.
I do, pour money into a better motor, Vtec head on a Y4 block....
Don't waste your moneyQuote:
Originally Posted by shake
grofty plsQuote:
Originally Posted by grifty
So little gain.Quote:
Originally Posted by shake
You'd need to tune it after to get maximum benefit.
May as well do a b series swap.
They're getting cheap these days. Would cost roughly the same as what you're planning to spend. Except it would outperform what you're planning to do.
http://nkayesel.files.wordpress.com/...-slow-clap.gif
hes right you know.
Well aware of that. But I need to keep my block and head for class restrictions.
Change classes lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by shake
http://www.threefingersofpolitics.co...ney-in-tdk.jpg
What setup are you thinking of going with and what type of class are you racing ?Quote:
Originally Posted by shake
^ Motor as posted above (9 posts back), ED6 gutted, Koni GC sus setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLMTR996
Building loosely to Type3A/3J/NM3A, motor swap = min weight limit penalty.
Not looking to break any records just out there for fun.
So super sprints or hill climb 3J IPRA allows B16a in a ED as they where FIA approved as a touring car this link has good info in it and to know the ins and outs of it contact twinturbo on there (Gary Cook) I honestly would not waste my money without it making it worth while just giving you some info to think about.And dont worry I have been involved in IPRA and Honda's for many years and crewed with Gary Cook for alot of them on different cars.
http://www.ipraforum.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6668
Interesting read, looks like i'd need ef9 front guards, bonnet and possibly the front bumper too.Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLMTR996
Knowing what it costs to develop a D to the level to do lap times anywhere near a STD B16a I would have a serious think about what is best for you because once you spend $1000's of dollars you wont ever get it back.As much as I enjoy building and tuning D series engines they have there limit in a N/A form and carby tuning will cost alot more than EFI in dyno hrs.
dis guys speaks the truth. good info here^^^
"lets talk d series"
"no, get a B"
"ok"
/thread
Biggest problem is guys want to be different and really they are just wasting money in the long run you need to research rules if your racing and use them to your best advantage and not spend 10's of thousands of dollars to enjoy your sport/hobby.
With a D series it takes alot to make 100kw+ at the wheels i had one that I spent hrs and hrs on the dyno with it was a full OEM build D16Y1 P29 pistons mild ported head cut open ported intake manifold 60mm TB and it would only make 99kw no matter what I did without spending alot more on the cyl head there was not alot more mid range power to find,that engine cost less than $1000 to build because I did it myself and really 99kw for under $1000 its cheap power and a hell of alot a fun to drive and did surprise a few cars and drivers on the road.Now on a race track it would not have suited with its powerband and this is why I would use a B shake in what you want to do there are a few cheap b16 conversions around PM me and I will send you the links or if you want the spec's on the D I had I am more than happy to post them up.
This forum needs more people like you :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLMTR996
B > d > k
Fark hes right.....Quote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
http://31.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_md...2vj6o1_500.gif
the solution is obvious just put J series into jazz for max unsafe feels
I like this idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveho1
Mid mount it.
Jazz chassis is actually pretty good lol.
PM'd ALLMTR
shake I will post up the D series spec's for you once I print off a dyno sheet when I am at Insight Motorsports next.
If you want power go the P29/PM7 pistons, shave the head, and run a big cam (Crower stage 3 is what the yanks do). Will end up with comp around 12.5:1 more or less. Need the big cam and a 98RON tune to make it run smooth but it can be done.
120+ KW ATW is achievable.
Have you built this combo before ? or is it just what you have read on the net.Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
Read on the net
To be honest I wouldn't bother. Just go turbo, N/A seems to be a WOTAM on the D-series.
haha I know what you mean turbo they are ok and fun
Which is probably about 100kWon an Ozzy dyno anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
Looking into the B option. BTW the one in tweed was sold.
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/tweed...tor/1019029610 nope relisted
No, one of our members here did exactly what I posted earlier (following the example of the yanks) and made 137kw. Big dyno or not, that's still respectable i think. It's doable, people just hate on the D and can't afford to pay for the work or DIY.Quote:
Originally Posted by shake
I was thinking of doing it but changed my mind and will try a turbo since I turn 25 this year :)
If thats the 137kw D that was in Sydney it was just a dream.
No, was in Melbourne.Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLMTR996
Actually it was 161HP my mistake, but exhaust was too small as discussed and likely holding the build back.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...td-head-gasket
I don't understand the non-believers. It's just a damned engine lol. Take it apart, make it run high compression with an aggressive cam and it will make power. Pretty simple, more complex to actually do of course, but obviously there's the potential to make power in most platforms if you know what you're doing.
All good there are a few things in the thread that he says one thing and pic's show something else so 161hp is 119kw so my OEM build 99kw D was ok then.It was good to see that someone had a go at a D but like most he sold up and went to another platform.
Definitely ok, would be great fun to drive.
What about his build were you concerned about?
Personally I love the D bangers. People just make the mistake of comparing then to B's and K's.
Compared to most other SOHC 1.6L's from other manufacturers they're actually very strong engines.
Ehhh, it's not so much a mistake to choose the option worth the same money but produces more power.Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
It is what it is though. Originally it was designed as an economy engine, it is possible to increase power though.
D16 potenial vs B16 potential is incredibly different.
Plus there's more aftermarket support for B series.
If you really want to modify a D though, be smart about it. Just an I/H/E won't make it fantastic.
The DOHC ZC engine is nice. Spoon had one in their AH race car making 230hp at 9800 rpm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by newpaddy3
Nah I disagree.
If you want to talk potential then forget Honda engines compared to other options lol. B16A's are nice engines and all, but they're still 4-bangers.
Otherwise, if you're starting with a healthy D16 (which lots of us are, hence the relevance of comparison), why compare your cheap economy engine to a sports engine? Of course it's crap by comparison. But what do you think's better for potential? A budget/low power turbo setup on a D16 or a N/A B16A engine conversion? Both probably cost the same but my money's on the D16 for fun/power.
Potential is in the eye of the beholder. If I want my turbo setup to achieve 120kw ATW on my Y1 I can probably do that for as much or less than doing a B16A swap. In fact getting to 120kw for a standard EG Civic is probably cheapest, easiest, and more enjoyable (torque-delivery) by going turbo on the D16 as opposed to B16 or B18.
You both have valid points.
One of the hardest things I found was STD gearing with the D series my cable D series gearbox was good from 3-4-5 but the 1-2 sucked has anyone played around with gearing with there D series build?
My gearing is on par with stock k-series boxes. Its a hybrid box using aftermarket/custom/stock gears I've built. Its all about the gearing.
very true... turbo is the only way to go IMO... N/a can only get u so far, especially if its ur DD car like me.Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
Though the worked d16 may make XXX amount of kw@wheels, the torque is still crap and gutless... so really i dont think its even worth modding a n/a d16, same deal with B16, both have pretty piss poor power band and torque curve, all the power an torque is at the very top end...
which is why turbo will always walk over the N/a modded version when it comes to the dyno, power band and torque, simple fact of life, still have respect for those who mod a D16 and keeping it N/a, but for me, for the price Turbo is the only way.
And yes, D16 turbo is such a blast to drive! Well any Turbo Honda's in general haha
It's because of the big lump of torque in most turbo builds that, 9 time out of 10 the NA car will be quicker and easier to drive around a track. Providing the power is comparable.
Thats good no one else seems to play around with gearing if only they realized how much better it will make there setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrwho
sharing is caring, details...Quote:
Originally Posted by mrwho
Just get a shorter FD IMO.
we shall see, gonna hit the tracks in oct/nov in my boosted d16 an see how it compares to when it was n/a, obviously there's more power now, but more focusing if its manageable to track vs when it was n/aQuote:
Originally Posted by shake
I have a 335xxxkms d16. will I make it out of the track alive
Depends on whether or not you can drive well enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by simmy
will you make it through the entrance? thats the first question you should askQuote:
Originally Posted by simmy
will you make it through
through make it will you
Well just to give you all an update on my proposed D15 build from a couple of pages back. I've acquired an 88 crx as a donor.
So I now have a side draft webber/dellorto to sohc D series manifold I'm not using...any takers
Let's keep talking d-series :)
Warning - large detailed post..I am using this for my reference too.
Who's rockin' the mighty d still? Or even if you are new to d-series,CHIME IN!!
This thread is about engines,any problems,pics you want to share or just to brag about your d-series engine cause I love em'.I love working with what I got and bringing out it's potential. I also love how it is much lighter than b series therefore power/weight/handling balance was comfortably achieved and in the twistys I can keep up with the best of em' and tbh if in front,pull some. I've covered a lot of km in the last 4 yrs and I learned how to drive.Got my lines down.
My mods - d16y4 manual 370,000km - spun the main bearing on the y4 auto due to oil starvation from a leaking crank pulley seal,it dumped all it's oil in a 5 hr spirited drive,murwillumbah to kempsey 3 yrs ago.My mates got a flatbed and came and rescued me.Then got 2 free y4's off Daz and Lloyd on here and put one in with the manual conversion. 7'200 rev limit now and manual! :) YAY!
Custom Short ram intake + cold air feed - open system because of rain/water/Port matched X-Force 4-2-1 headers/2" custom exhaust (2 press bends on a mandrel bent system for increased back pressure/low end power,no res,hollow cat
60mm tb,ported and port matched stock IM (retained for low end power vs skunk2)
Port matched hondata IM gasket (low heat transfer to the head)
Ported intake and exhaust ports on the head/port matched to IM and headers.Also removed headers and exhaust and port matched all the joints
ngk V-power spark plugs
Cerma stm-3 in engine
air con delete,retains ps
nrg torque damper + Energy suspension 2 lower engine mount inserts
low temp radiator fan switch + removed thermostat keep things cool - highway type driving only
oil catch can - gotta keep where the valves seat clean for optimal tappet adjustment (set at 6 thou intake and exhaust) and you know the tps has to be calibrated.
I use moreys upper cylinder lubricant/injector cleaner and squirt water instead of the cleaners through the intake to clean the upper engine,check youtube - best way to clean it.
Recently replaced valve stem seals and drive shafts.
Port matching everything makes the package complete and highly recommend it.I used a triangular dremel bit in a drill,it's in the porting the head diy.
To do list:
Put in the level 1 bisimoto cam + water pump
Cerma stm-3 in gearbox
Hardrace shifter bushings
Paint half the car satin black
Replace 2 sliding brake caliper pins
The diy's in my signature show how to get everything running and working at it's best for optimal performance.
Engine Pic:
http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/be...ig7l7.jpg.html
Recently discovered while doing the water pump my block was stamped p29 which is the obd1 d16a8 from the egs.
Head is still pm7, did a quick but of research and found that the stock compression ratio for a d16a8 is 192psi. Mines around 200 / 210 cold.
Maybe you could shed some light on this beeza?
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...225_165441.jpg
I'm unsure junda...I would have to Google search it etc..
Great compression.
Hey Beeza, long time no speak mate. How's the Batmobile going? B18c7 now? Is it true? This must be the first time for me to log onto OH in what it seems like years.Quote:
Originally Posted by beeza
What got me on here was Buddy club rims. I've just actually ordered some second hand P1s with rubber for my Rex. It'll soon be more of a Honda with those rims. Dunno if they are the cast SFs or the ultra light forged QFs (pics indicate the latter but seller doesn't know). After 5 years I'm finally gettin' rid of the stockies.
Wow,5 years since. ..well you know. . :)
You always appreciate things more when it takes longer to get it.
Yes and finally got to get some b18c7 luvin'!! Considered turbos,built b16 etc etc but the best thing about the b18c7 is that it is agreed to best leave it alone because they came perfect from the factory.
And you know me Mike,I NEED that or I'll start playing hehehe
I'm living down near ulladulla in a caravan park in a national park. Greg and I are the care takers here WOOT WOOT Love it!
I also love the b18c7 :-D
Will be going to Wakefield park 3rd may woohoo
Attachment 30057
Attachment 30057
I really suck at posting pics now..
The extra power is awesome.Vtec offcoarse is way good in this engine.You know it was only timmy's b16a second gen that done it for me..this goes hard like his aye,so that's what I wanted.
Even harder :} Great engine.I friggin' love it.
Compression is 220/220/220/200,the numbers sprung up real quick too.Rare find,a b18c7 in this condition.The gearbox is like from factory.I'm super happy with the choice.NA ALL THE WAY.High compression ftw too!! 11.1-1 it has.
Come for a holiday,stay in the cabin here and bring the subie to wakefield :}
http://i66.tinypic.com/a2d95e.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by JundaCoro
That's your engine. Awesome for its era. That's a good d-series