B16a- Stroker kit vs B18?

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24-06-2009, 07:38 PM
TODA AU

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZeForce

I have always thought a LSVTEC with B16a pistons would make for a nice street setup. Deck the block 20 thou, ARP rod bolts and head studs, new rings and bearings, etc, etc shouldnt cost too much and will give you enough compression to use a decent sized cam. Add the usual I/H/E + IM/TB + tuning and I reckon you would have yourself a decent NA setup.

:thumbsup: Works well... Good value & good output....
24-06-2009, 07:41 PM
CRXer

off topic,but while your here dishing out free advice adrian,lol,
is P72 & PR3 head the same height or is P72 taller?
edit: overall height that is?
24-06-2009, 08:23 PM
TODA AU

LOL... Same height....:thumbsup:
The intake ports of the P72 are at asteeper angle & enter the head higher on the head.
The exhaust ports are more simetrical in the P72...

For outright grunt, the P72 (ported) seems to perform better too...
165kw @ wheels + (NA)
24-06-2009, 08:25 PM
eg5civic

also while on this topic adrian and you threw a number out there for how much that work was for the stroker...

2L stroker for the b16b/b18c..me having the b16b but looking at options when it come time to rebuild
Would it be around the same as what you quoted back on page one

Quote:

Originally Posted by TODA AU

We can do that sort of thing, starting from $6500 - drive away
Incl new crank, rods & pistons, machining costs, machining costs, labour in & out, genuine gaskets, oils, fluids etc...

either way when it comes time to build i know where i'm headed ;)
24-06-2009, 08:49 PM
CRXer

Quote:

Originally Posted by TODA AU

LOL... Same height....:thumbsup:
The intake ports of the P72 are at asteeper angle & enter the head higher on the head.
The exhaust ports are more simetrical in the P72...

For outright grunt, the P72 (ported) seems to perform better too...
165kw @ wheels + (NA)

cool thanx,my rubber cheque is in the mail.

i always thought the straighter shot on the P72 woulda made it taller,just cant seem to work out why some of the EDB18 boys can get their bonnets closed & some cant,even though same mounts :confused:
24-06-2009, 10:15 PM
TODA AU

Quote:

Originally Posted by eg5civic

also while on this topic adrian and you threw a number out there for how much that work was for the stroker...

2L stroker for the b16b/b18c..me having the b16b but looking at options when it come time to rebuild
Would it be around the same as what you quoted back on page one

either way when it comes time to build i know where i'm headed ;)

For a basic 2L engine, yes that would be on the money.
This would be using modified factory parts with forged pistons added to the top,
A rod ratio of around 1.50:1 can be maintained.
Kind of like the old Spoon 2L B18C in times gone by…
24-06-2009, 10:20 PM
ZeForce

Quote:

Originally Posted by TODA AU

For a basic 2L engine, yes that would be on the money.
This would be using modified factory parts with forged pistons added to the top,
A rod ratio of around 1.50:1 can be maintained.
Kind of like the old Spoon 2L B18C in times gone by…

Rod/stroke ratio of 1.50 is a little on the low side, dunno if I would class that as "acceptable"
24-06-2009, 10:30 PM
reedyek4

Quote:

Originally Posted by eg5civic

either way when it comes time to build i know where i'm headed ;)

s**t me too :P

was that $6500 for the 1.8 stroker or 2L?
24-06-2009, 10:58 PM
eg5civic

Quote:

Originally Posted by reedyek4

s**t me too :P

was that $6500 for the 1.8 stroker or 2L?

2L

Quote:

Originally Posted by TODA AU

For a basic 2L engine, yes that would be on the money.
This would be using modified factory parts with forged pistons added to the top,
A rod ratio of around 1.50:1 can be maintained.
Kind of like the old Spoon 2L B18C in times gone by…

If i was going to crack it open it would be a serious rebuild but what i'm trying to ask is, is it better to stroke the b16b block to 2L or to buy a b20b and ls/vtec the block?
24-06-2009, 11:11 PM
reedyek4

Quote:

Originally Posted by eg5civic

If i was going to crack it open it would be a serious rebuild but what i'm trying to ask is, is it better to stroke the b16b block to 2L or to buy a b20b and ls/vtec the block?

i was meaning to ask same question? reliability wise...providing the b16 has forged internals is the 20b more reliable?
25-06-2009, 07:12 AM
TODA AU

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZeForce

Rod/stroke ratio of 1.50 is a little on the low side, dunno if I would class that as "acceptable"

Theory aside...
It works....
25-06-2009, 07:18 AM
TODA AU

Quote:

Originally Posted by reedyek4

i was meaning to ask same question? reliability wise...providing the b16 has forged internals is the 20b more reliable?

That's the $20 question...
& it depends what you're doing with it & how you look after it.

B20B is probably a cheaper alternative & can potentially last longer with lower piston speed, higher rev potential etc...
The stroked B16B/B18C has torque... Lots of it.
But generally won't make power past 8800rpm (& that;s with high comp, cams, head work & ideal intake & exhaust)
TODA won the Japanese national Ghymkhana championship 3 years in a row with an engine like this...
That engine is still going today (here in Aust), albeit the head on 1 car & the bottom end in another....

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