haha www.vsport.com.au =DQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
yer i got some quotes from them too, but no money atm for brake stuff
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haha www.vsport.com.au =DQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
yer i got some quotes from them too, but no money atm for brake stuff
Dammit, I can't believe I forgot the link. ahhahaQuote:
Originally Posted by enkay
Stop buying expensive parts, then you can afford brakes. ahha
haha nah actually ive just been buildin a new comp for my room / some home theatre stuffQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
but im back to saving for my car again =D
Interesting!Can you post up prices of what you got?What about brake fluid any suggestions?something better than OEM?............thx.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
okay prices i got for the stuff i wanted are:
Goodridge lines F&R: $224
Hawk ceramic pads: $194(front) $142(rear)
thats all i asked for
I got DBA4000 front rotors (blanks) for $162 each and DBA street rear rotors (blanks) for $90 each.Quote:
Originally Posted by tony1234
I got quoted $225 for the Goodridge ADR-approved brake lines. Good price considering the non-ADR ones are already $150-170 from Ebay landed here.
They respond very quickly via email as well.
Thanks Aaron.Good prices.What about brake fluid?Do You/they recommend any?Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
nice find guys...
I am one of those people who advocate only Honda brake fluid in the Euro, because of the seals. It's good enough for street too. I bleed a little bit of fluid out of the calipers every year just to get any overheated stuff out. Maybe it's just my paranoia and using any other brand of equivalent DOT3 or 4 fluid is fine. Although, I have read somewhere that high performance brake fluids like Motul RBF600 can swell the seals if used for long durations (years) and that is a DOT4.Quote:
Originally Posted by tony1234
I'm sure there are many others who will flame me for trying to let Honda profit from us, but there are only 2 things that I will stick to Honda OEM for, which are the coolant and brake/clutch fluid.
Guys..
DB1481, Did not fit my car when I first tried, they were too big!, as in length..
Bendix.com.au, states that Euro CL9 with a 260mm rotor uses DB1391, and that a CL9 Euro with 282mm rotors uses DB1481..
Bloody Jap cars, this is a repeat of owning my Subaru, Why can't the be all the same like the commodores! you can't go wrong.
My Euro is a JUL03 build.. Luxury..
Maybe the Sport has the 282mm and the Luxury has the 260mm..?
That's the problem! CL9 Euros come with 300mm disc rotors!Quote:
Originally Posted by xxb4xx
Just checked the Bendix site. The info for the rear pad looks correct, but the info for the front pad is wrong!
I think I found the correct FMSI.
Front: 7657-D787
Rear: 7418-D537, 7418-D536, 7265-D365 (the first one, D537 should be the best fit)
So what are the db numbers?
How can everyone have them so wrong!
Man I hope you are right..
FMSI 7657-D787 = DB1393
Where did you find the FMSI?
It's listed in Bendix as being for an "Acura TL"
From http://www.performancefriction.com/p...p_Cross_P4.pdfQuote:
Originally Posted by xxb4xx
It shares the same FMSI as the CL, TL, old RL, TSX and Accord V6
The rear is shared with even more models. http://www.performancefriction.com/p...p_Cross_P3.pdf
Well dude, looking at the pic of DB1391 it looks spot on..
Now let's hope they keep it in stock at Auto One.
bump
any of you guys still using hawks hps, how are you finding them? any personal experience with stock rotors?
I used Hawk Ceramics with stock rotors. They are good as long as you bed them in as per the instructions on the box.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
Ps guys, after all the headaches, the correct DB conversion for the euro is DB1393
But.. It's a special order item not usually kept in stock, due to the rarity that euro owners actually change their own brakes (the general population) :)
I find in today's economy, nothing is ever kept in stock... except for commodore brakes. I was after basic Ferodo pads for the Astra, and even that had to be ordered in (took 3 weeks)Quote:
Originally Posted by xxb4xx
I'm using Hawks HPS on RDA rotors, they havent eatten into my RDA rotors at all for the past 9 months, I'm pretty harsh on them at times. HPS pads are pretty good, bite better than stock but they are very dusty. But I wouldn't buy them again, weren't as good as I was expecting for their price.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
I had a look online from US, the difference between a set of front and rear was minimal.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
hawk ceramic set was US$143 without shipping
hawk hps set was US$139 without shipping
Well according to the site, they are supposed to be gentle of rotors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Min988
What are my other options, I'm looking at $200ish for front and rear
You won't get much for $200 front and rear. Even 2 years ago, I paid $260 for the ceramics. For $200, you're looking at entry pads, which would be Ferodo XL or similar. Maybe the Bendix Premium, which is also supposed to be ceramic.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
the hps front and rear are AUD$215 front and rear shipped from the usa, the ceramics slightly more.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
how did you find the ceramics, would you buy them again?
For street, yes. I would buy them again. But for track, no.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
agreed on track with HPS is a no no.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
any tried the endless ssm, thinkin of them for track pads?
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
coolies, I'm just using them for street.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
Out of ceramics and HPS (running on stock rotors) which would you prefer?
I noticed the HPS is marketed as a "street performance" pad, yet is cheaper than the ceramics :confused:
I believe ceramic is almost the same in performance, except that it has less dusting.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
right-o, hawk ceramics it is.
is it better to use the ceramics brake pads for daily street use i want less dust though which brand to recommend
Funny thing is after 2 trackdays, the ceramics probably overheated and cooked itself. Now whenever I drive, it dusts like crazy, because the pad has basically become tofu.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
I won't be tracking so I suppose I should be safe :angel:Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
How do you find the intermediate pedal feel? There's nothing worse than brakes that are either on or off.
The ceramics are gradual. They slightly less initial bite, but brake harder as you press down on the pedal. Pretty good I reckon. They are not touchy at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
my mechanic recommended bendix and i went with it, did i make the wrong choice? car is daily driver and has never been on a track.
also, what do you guys think about running diff brand pads front and rear
my rears are gone, my fronts are ok.
is it ok to run oem fronts and hawk rears, or should I swap all for hawk?
Bendix is fine for street. Hope you got Bendix Premium/General CT and not Bendix Ultimate. The Ultimate is aggressive on the rotors.Quote:
Originally Posted by blk05gli
It's fine, just change the rear as long as the left and right are the same brand/model.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
The rears alone are so weak that they contribute very little when the car is under hard braking.
It seems the ones listed under TSX above are not the current model used in Australia. Yfin, if you are still on here, can you let me know how you went?Quote:
Originally Posted by yfin
Hi All,
Could someone confirm the Hawk Ceramic part numbers for an 05' CL9? Is it HB366Z.681 for the front and HB366Z.681 for the rear?
I'm getting a bit of brake shudder when braking from 100km/h+ (and slow "shudder" when slowly pulling up at lights), so i'm thinking rotors are either warped or have build up on them. The first thing i'm going to do is replace the pads (since the OEM pads are just about buggered).
If that doesn't fix it, i'll get the rotors machined. Will running new pads on potentially warped rotors cause any damage to the pads?
On a side note, the OEM pads have a white paint dot that lines up with a paint dot on the caliper, does this mean they are the original pads?? I bought the car with 70k on it, it's now down 86k. Is that typical pad life?
Cheers,
Steve
Get the ones for the 2004-2008 CL9 TSX listed on Heeltoeauto.com. I think the part number is listed there too. They sell the correct size.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroSteve
86k is pretty good brake pad life in my opinion. It depends on driving style, but pure city driving can wear the pads out much quicker than 86k.
^^ my experience has been that manual cars have longer brake change intervals than autos. Both my cars have about 100K on them, but the maxima has had 2 changes and the Euro only 1.
cheers
Cheers Arron :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
For others that are interested, I can confirm the Hawk Ceramic part numbers (for CL9) are HB366Z.681 and HB145Z.570
Dixcel M can be used for both track and street depending on what car and what time you do on the track. If you are a novice, type-M will be fine, but if you cranking some good times on the track, type-Z is your friend.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
In regards to brake life, mine still had some meat on them (not much) and thats 83000k's, no wonder why OEM's cost so much, usually the bendix pads I get wear out straight away.. but it might also have to do with the way I used to drive my previous car :)
Anyone know the actual brand / manufacturer or the specs (hard / soft) of the OEM Honda pads?
was it both front and rear that made 83000?Quote:
Originally Posted by xxb4xx
Just the fronts.. and they probably had another 10,000 left in them!,
The rears still look brand new, I left them as is.. not sure if the previous owner did them recently or not, as they still are 80% meaty.
bit of a bump, posted up the same question in where to buy, but not getting many responses.
how much should I be paying roughly to get a set of pads changed at an independent (non-dealership)? (Labor only, providing parts myself)
I went to a brake and exhaust place across the road from Honda LOL. I paid $400 for Brand new Bendix General CT pads all around,all four rotors machined professionally, and a full brake fluid flush. i thought that was reasonable, no squeal, good bite and low dust exactly what i wanted :)
Front pads $85 a pair
Rear pads $78 a pair
Labor was $154
plus other costs...
thanks for the reply, but im a bit confused.
the labor ($154) you paid was for machining of rotors, full bf flush and installation of rotors and pads?
yes that is correct
Hi,
Was wondering if $210 for front only brake pads (Bendix) & rotor machining is reasonable? that includes labour.
Hmmmm,seems a little expensive.I'm thinking round the $160 mark.Quote:
Originally Posted by revivor
Agreed. I just had new Hawk ceramic pads with new bling rotors installed. I did the proper pad breaking-in act. The initial bite is so gradual it gave my wife a fright when she drove the car. I almost got a handbag over my head!Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Quote:
Originally Posted by revivor
well i just had my front rotors machined and replaced the front pads with OEM pad's.. and it cost me $260..... if i went for aftermarket pads, it would have been $160 all up for machined rotors and pads including labour.
i'm not sure how much bendix pads cost..
I grabbed front and rears Bendix Genreal CT's yesterday.
Fronts were $65
Rears were $50
Just a quick update on my NR pads and DBA 4000 blanks.
Just did my pink slip for rego and had the brake tested as part of the procedure. Printout says Max deceleration as 1.23 G! LOL, I wonder how hard were they hitting the brakes.
After reading through 18 pages... I still don't know which ones is best to replace the OEM brake pads for a CL9 daily driver with no track usage to resolve the braking shudder problem. :(
Go Bendix General CT stealth series pads. They just released an update which includes stealth technology which is supposed to eliminate noise from brakes and reduces vibration. im running Bendix General CTs and they have great bite and no noticeble brake fade.Quote:
Originally Posted by V205
+ Also im running OEM rotors and they haven't warped or caused shuddering since I changed to Bendix General CT pads
Yeah, Bendix General CT is a good one to use since you can easily buy it locally.
If you were buying from overseas, then Hawk Ceramics. No shudder with the Hawk but you lose some initial bite.
Thanks guys..so even the current new OEM will still cause the same problem on the CL9?
It's interesting as my 2002 CRV is still on the factory pads with no problems at all. Different compound?
Different compound on the CRV pads.Quote:
Originally Posted by V205
Thanks Aaron.
Will the Bendix General GT fix require the discs to be machined first or will the pads get rid of of the residue on the discs?
Is this an issue for both the front and rear OEM pads??
Anyone tried CRV pads on their CL9 as they share the same shape?
You don't need to machine the discs unless they were already warped (if they were warped, I would get new discs instead of machining). I would lightly sand the discs with sandpaper thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by V205
The wobble would come from the front, but the rear discs can get deposits too because of the parking brake.
Aaronng, does the wobble disappear straight away with new pads?
Depends. If it is from pad deposits from the OEM pads, you just need to do a few hard braking runs from 80km/h down to 20km/h. That will pretty much remove the old deposits almost instantly.Quote:
Originally Posted by V205
However if the discs are warped from overheating, then the wobble won't disappear.
FWIW, I'm running hawk ceramics at the back.
They were a little spongy to start with, but now that I'm used to them, I don't really notice the difference between them and OEM
What I noticed is that my wobble isn't always there when in the first 5-10 mins.. but seems to be more evident on freeways and on a downhill. That would be more indicative of the deposit issue? A warped disc would be wobbling in all breaking conditions even in the first few mins of driving?
It depends on the speed at which you apply the brakes.Quote:
Originally Posted by V205
New pads , New disc will sort that wobble problem
What are the Acre pads that you are selling like?where are they made,what grades(street,track) etc.?Quote:
Originally Posted by EG5
where can i get bendix ct pads? they sound lik a reasonably good pad. also im still using the oem rotors so hoping the new pads wont be to harsh on them.
WHere abouts are u located...Quote:
Originally Posted by biee2
Some car part stores have them, but it would depend on ure location
im from melbourne victoria east side.....hope this helps. i was wandering if there is lik a store or something....even online where i could buy them
Anyone here tried the Acre Super Fighters? I'm gonna pull the trigger soon...
anyone tried endless mx72 before? if so, feedback would be much appreciate ! cheerss..
Yes, got them on the fronts now.Quote:
Originally Posted by T.I.X
Much better bite then OEM, also find them better than Hawks Ceramics. Noise level seem similar, I don't know about dust, I clean my rims fairly often, I see no difference. :) I find MX-72's more progressive than the Hawks.
I believe temp range is from 0-700c. Basically with pads, what you pay for is what you get.
Hawks are good value, still use them on the rears.
Quick report. I've gone back to stock pads for now. The Endless SSS pads over time produced a lot more dust than stock and wore really quick. The mechanic from my last service told me that only 10-20% was left.
Compared to stock, the SSS pads bites a lot harder which is great for hard braking but not as good for everyday driving (very jerky). I'm thinking of using another type of aftermarket pad down the track now.
^^ oh geee.....i just got my Endless SSS pads the other day....**sigh** LOL
im just hunting for some suitable rotors...
Don't worry too much mate. They're good brake pads with heaps of bite but they certainly won't last long.Quote:
Originally Posted by TRaNz
I wonder if Project u pads are any good in comparison.
Have you visually checked the pad thickness yourself? I didn't find the SSS that jerky. I liked it so much better than the gentle Hawk Ceramics. Was a great progressive biter, better than Hawk where you could control the amount of bite using brake pedal pressure. I am now using Project Mu NR and that is has strong initial bite. When I first drove it, it felt like your brake pedal was only fully off or 50% on! I couldn't get on the pedal gently enough to have smooth braking. But after 1 year, it has become more gentle probably because of the bedding in and me getting used to using touchy brakes.Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaz
How long did your SSS last for Aaron?
THis still with the same DBA 4000?