It pulls to the side on 4-lane freeways where the road doesn't have grooves. Also, roads slant to the left, so the car should pull to the left. Mine pulled to the RIGHT after lowering without a rear alignment.
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It pulls to the side on 4-lane freeways where the road doesn't have grooves. Also, roads slant to the left, so the car should pull to the left. Mine pulled to the RIGHT after lowering without a rear alignment.
I have Bilstein/Eibach combo,lowered of course,conti sport contact 2 tyres set at 38-40psi.I do have some tramlining on uneven roads but NO drifting/pulling at all.I was told by my tyre shop that the recommended pressures are too low.They tell me they regularly get euros with the tyres prematurely worn on the outsides and the owners can't understand why they need a set of new tyres after 20k!!or less!!They suggest 4psi extra all round.I think it's a combination of OEM tyres and alignment settings.BTW i have an 06.:confused:
My first set of tyres wore badly on the inside edge. After 24,000km, I was upgrading from 16s (and the stock Dunlops) to 17s, but my tyre shop told me that one rear tyre was bordering on illegal from the tread wearing on the inner edge, and the other wasn't looking too healthy either (despite both having plenty of tread left in the centre, and a reasonable amount left on the outside).
I give my car a bit of stick occasionally, but I've never had premature wear like this before. The tyre shop put it down to the Euro's suspension geometry, and suggested they have a propensity to start chewing through rubber - particularly at the rear - if alignments aren't performed at least once every 10,000km or so.
Yep, it's stock. And yes, they did mention that there's not a lot of adjustability, although the drive improved markedly - and my car stopped pulling - after the alignment (which was done 500km before I switched to 17s). They told me that the improvement was mainly to do with the adjustments they made at the rear.
But I also have no doubt that they were trying to ramp up business. I'll be keeping a close eye on my inside tyre wear and steering pull from now on, but I won't be getting an alignment done unless it's needed.
How does tyre pressure have to do with my situation?
Happened from 5000klm's ....checked my tyre pressure before I took it too Honda, cause i thought it might be that. Tyre pressure was same as specs always have been.
If it was as simple as tyre pressure then why did honda dealership adjust my k-frame? Why not just say it was tyre pressure adjust them and goodbye.
And as far as tyres are concerned worst tram tracking I've ever experienced with the REO40's.
I have michelin pilot sport (preceda II) now and am experiencing "NIL" tram tracking. EXCELLENT TYRES. And tyre pressures are in spec
Also I must add that Yokahama's ADVAN, Dunlop sport 3000a are of equal standard, due to there asymetrical designs, which help with tramlining.
Here you see there is a trend forming...ASYMMETRICAL even bridgestone is following e.g
(TOP) michelin pilot sport (preceda II)
(BOTTOM) Yokahama ADVAN (sport V103).
Attachment 5374
Attachment 5375
(1) Continental conti sport contact 2
(2) Bridgestone REO50
(3) Dunlop 3000a sport
Found this also...
http://tsx.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37060
Seems that we arn't the only ones....but drifting to the left, they do drive on the opposite side of the road aswell.
hmmmmmmmm.....sound familiar?????????
All I was trying to suggest was that some cars will tramline regardless.
Different tyres will tramline more or less than others, yes.
What I was trying to suggest is that when a car experiences tramlining issues, the first thing you should do is check your tyre pressures: reducing tyre pressure will reduce tramlining. With some cars or people's preferences for feel, this is enough.
(Personally, I tend to run 34 front and 32 rear.)
Something that I did wonder about the other day: I remember reading in an early review of the car that the Australian model still gets mechanical power-steering assistance, whereas other models overseas apparently have electric power assistance. Mechanical assistance is still favoured by purists as providing better steering feel; electrical assistance tends to make things feel a bit more dead (e.g.: the M roadster has mechanical steering compared to the Z4's electric; many reviews tend to say that the S2000's electrically-assisted steering feels a bit dead). I wonder if our "purer" mechanical assistance provides a lot more feedback (for the style of car) than many drivers out there seem to prefer.
Yes I feel a steering pull through my stock car; I feel a brake bite more on one side; I feel a wheel grabbed by a pothole. I accept it as part of the nature of the car.
That doesn't mean to say that someone out there doesn't have a genuine manufacturing defect.
I just question whether some people seem to be mistaking what is the car's steering nature for something that they see as a defect. Hence: you take it to the Honda yard, they can't feel a problem -- because your car is no different to any other. The problem is that you don't like the nature of the car...
I would suggest that if you feel that you really have a problem with your steering, then meet up with somebody else on this forum and let them drive your car -- for an opinion from somebody who knows intimately what their car feels like.
I have driven other euro's....my problem is something else. When I test drove my car it had no drift,no pull and no bias at all. If I had known that all Euros pull, drift after a while I would not have bought it.
I am taking my car back to the guy who lowered my car according to him my castor might have been affected when those fools at Honda adjusted my K-Frame to compensate for the drifting problem the REO40's caused...He will put my k-frame back the way it was (straight) as I have new tyres now.
He is still sure it was the RE40's that caused the problem in the first place, I'll just have to wait and see.
I have a 50 year old tractor at home and it drives straighter on the road than my car.
I think you are misunderstanding his problem. The problem is when driving on a flat road, with no surface defects, and your hand lightly on the wheel, the car will drift to the right. It's as if the suspension of the car was "bent" to the right. You have to pull the steering wheel to the left to keep the car going straight. If you let the wheel go, the natural centering of the steering wheel will still end up with the car drifting to the right.
A car with proper alignment but the steering wheel offset so that it doesn't point straight when going straight will self-align to drive straight ahead (eventhough the wheel doesn't point straight).
I don't need to drive his car because I had the same problem before after lowering but with the rear camber and toe not within specs.
Hi guys this is my first post at this forum. I have a 07 Euro Lux Navi Man which has always drfited to the right. Done 5,000 km now and have had it back to honda several times. Only to be told there is no fault with my car. Service manager (Dave Potter Honda SA) told me Euros tend to drift a bit and it's the nature of the car. Something perhaps they should tell you before you buy! I must say tho, if you ignore said drifting its an awsome value for money example of motor enginnering. Just need to lower it now.