As i said before its the Headgasket.
Would be asking the supplier of the engine to provide some sort of warranty esp if its from a shop.
Also why not just take it to a mechanic n get them to suss it out?
HG doesnt always mean milky oil , gunk on radiator cap n blowing smoke.
Full size half size same shit, Wouldnt affect the return flow.
Yeh.. Its gone down to the last resort.. Pressure test then HG.Quote:
Originally Posted by seihoa
All other possibilities has been looked at and replaced. Now its down to the big shit. Which has pissed me off as everytime b4 i run the car im always checking and topping up the radiator. And whilst driving always monitoring the temp needle as its fluctuating from half to above half.
Isnt having a low temp thermo n fan switch should make my temp needle to sit liwer than half right??
mine was BHG.
checked everything.
How did you go?
You have a weeping / leaking head gasket (not a blown head gasket, slightly different). You probably dont see any bubbles when your bleeding the system. Most leaking / weeping head gaskets only start once your engine is under driving load and up to full operational temperature.
Fill up your system & bleed it as best you can. Take your car for a good hard drive then pull over and remove your radiator cap strait away. Obviously be carefull that it does not explode on you! .. put a big towl over the cap and slowly release all the pressure from the radiator. If you see lots of small bubbleing - leaking head gasket. Go buy a Tee-kay tester and do a test, if the tekay solution changes colour from blue to yellow - you are passing combustion pressure into your cooling system, that is pushing all your coolant out of your radiator.
We did do a TK test and the solution stayed blue = PASSQuote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
FAIL - Couldn't do a Cooling System pressure test as the radiator cap adaptor did not fit my crappy radiator top tank.Quote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
We did a comp test results: 230|220|220|230 (11.3.1 CR) = PASS
ARC trial 53mm radiator to the test as we speak = TBA.
I am draining out the entire cooling system (coolant). i unplugged the 19mm drainage bolt which sits below the Exhaust manifold (B20 block).
I opened up the thermo housing and removed the newly fitted thermostat to drain the old coolant.
Clean and flushed the trial radiator.
stupid EK fan mounting didnt fit the ARC trial rad as this was for an EG. = retro fitting the fan now.
will update after everything is fitted and new coolant is in.
Maybe go somewhere that can do the job,Quote:
Originally Posted by IV73CI
It's not rocket science.
Re 1-4 / 2-3
I have no idea what you're trying to say.
Engine temps were perfect on the dyno! 84'c on pulls and 90'c max on constant dyno runs. It also picked up a few more kw's :p
OK
just done the flush and refit everything.
burp the entire system (allowed the fan to switch on 5 times by hitting the revs to raise the temp levels up. (took me 45mins)
..and went for a drive..
the overflow bottle was on MIN level before i drove out.
after a good 45mins hard runs Vtakking and also tuning the S300 TPS ...
ECT showed a steady 82-87 ... fan switched on several times
Got back home and idled for abit .... to let the engine cool ...then off.
checked the overflow and the levels was just above max line.
i let it cooled and opened the rad cap slowly to release any pressure.... pressure was released... checked the top tank and topped up the coolant.
i will test trial this ARC radiator and see how it goes ..FCUK!!
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?156645-solved-Need-help-car-heats-up-on-VTEC!-But-only-on-very-hard-runs!&p=3121310#post3121310
HG mosted times :(
Always test before getting works done
Did you do your TK test before or after you went for a drive?
Also i would recommend doing a cylinder pressure test (with the radiator cap removed) and a radiator pressure test (with your spark plugs removed)
Quote:
Originally Posted by IV73CI
why are you trying another radiator for?