You have a weeping / leaking head gasket (not a blown head gasket, slightly different). You probably dont see any bubbles when your bleeding the system. Most leaking / weeping head gaskets only start once your engine is under driving load and up to full operational temperature.
Fill up your system & bleed it as best you can. Take your car for a good hard drive then pull over and remove your radiator cap strait away. Obviously be carefull that it does not explode on you! .. put a big towl over the cap and slowly release all the pressure from the radiator. If you see lots of small bubbleing - leaking head gasket. Go buy a Tee-kay tester and do a test, if the tekay solution changes colour from blue to yellow - you are passing combustion pressure into your cooling system, that is pushing all your coolant out of your radiator.
We did do a TK test and the solution stayed blue = PASS
Originally Posted by TODA AU
How did you go?
FAIL - Couldn't do a Cooling System pressure test as the radiator cap adaptor did not fit my crappy radiator top tank.
We did a comp test results: 230|220|220|230 (11.3.1 CR) = PASS
ARC trial 53mm radiator to the test as we speak = TBA.
I am draining out the entire cooling system (coolant). i unplugged the 19mm drainage bolt which sits below the Exhaust manifold (B20 block).
I opened up the thermo housing and removed the newly fitted thermostat to drain the old coolant.
Clean and flushed the trial radiator.
stupid EK fan mounting didnt fit the ARC trial rad as this was for an EG. = retro fitting the fan now.
will update after everything is fitted and new coolant is in.
Last edited by IV73CI; 28-01-2012 at 04:44 PM.
Reason: question removed couldnt explain it properlly. lol
yeh ikr ...thats why i have been wasting alot of times testing, troubleshooting ..and still no good.
Originally Posted by Sexc86
Did you do your TK test before or after you went for a drive?
Also i would recommend doing a cylinder pressure test (with the radiator cap removed) and a radiator pressure test (with your spark plugs removed)
the TK was done after a drive and approx 1hr later .... engine was running to full temp on idle and revving before the test was done.
isnt a cylinder pressure test a Compression test on each cylinder? we did this test with all the spark plugs removed and crank start the car .... = cylinders/compression was ok..
as i said ...ill test trial this ARC rad with the matching rad cap. but first i need to NOW replace my TOP and U shaped rear hose (from IM to Thermostat housing) hoses. as they started to FAT/expand like a mofo lastnight after a long drive to moore park to mosman to the westside... 2hr driving ..
if this new rad still fails, then the last resort is a NEW HG... as it may not show oil/coolant mixtures, heavy gunk, white smoke, leaks but it could be a leaking HG somewhere where its not returning pressure back in to the cooling system.
You need to do the teekay test strait after you have been for a drive - after the car has been under load and still warm. There are two types of cylinder pressure tests.
* Cylinder Compression test (These may indicate a blown head gasket - but usually not a leaking head gasket)
* Cylinder leak down test - Need to rotate your cylinder to TDC. Then you screw in a fitting to your spark plug thred with a pressure gauge / regulator (similar to one that is use to pump up your tyres) - This is a regular air tool run from a air compressor. You pressurise your cylinder chamber with the radiator cap off and take note of any bubbles or loss in pressure on the gauge.
I feel your pain mate, but i honestly think you have a leaking head gasket.
yeh ikr ...thats why i have been wasting alot of times testing, troubleshooting ..and still no good.
the TK was done after a drive and approx 1hr later .... engine was running to full temp on idle and revving before the test was done.
isnt a cylinder pressure test a Compression test on each cylinder? we did this test with all the spark plugs removed and crank start the car .... = cylinders/compression was ok..
as i said ...ill test trial this ARC rad with the matching rad cap. but first i need to NOW replace my TOP and U shaped rear hose (from IM to Thermostat housing) hoses. as they started to FAT/expand like a mofo lastnight after a long drive to moore park to mosman to the westside... 2hr driving ..
if this new rad still fails, then the last resort is a NEW HG... as it may not show oil/coolant mixtures, heavy gunk, white smoke, leaks but it could be a leaking HG somewhere where its not returning pressure back in to the cooling system.
Last edited by Sexc86; 28-01-2012 at 09:39 PM.
Light up with Lyle - Electrical / Communications / Instrumentation
Originally Posted by Sexc86
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