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Hell Lukey- now I don't feel so bad with my DC2 staring down the barrel of 200'000kms.. For the 200k celebrations its a B&M Short Shifter install.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukey
Valve stem seals are on order to stop its latest bad habit.
Just done water pump/timing-belt last weekend; rear wheel bearings a fortnight ago(so much quieter and doesn't rattle any more); Brake Master Cylinder about 10k ago.....
So do tell- what is next to fail, OOPS, I mean- what is next on replacement list?
Tex
Anyone in Sydney want to offer to do it for me? Haha I'll ask benjamin
I think the ticking reduced after I topped IP the oil so maybe valve lashes are fine, supposedly last done 8 months ago. Should I still get it done anyway?
thats the vid of the motor, can hear the ticking noise nad some vacuum noise ven thouigh fans arent on
i think the oil burning smell may be due to the old pcv valve on the intake manifold, it looks black as and old plugged in, from waht i can tell
replace whatever fails lol. ive had a ignition coil in the dizzy die on me, my cmc leaks brakefluid at the clutch pedal and has done for years, just like my oils leaks i dont really care lol i just keep topping it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by TexNAss
my brake proportional valve leaks brake fluid.
had top radiator hose explode but again that was my laziness not replacing it when i knew it needed to be.
just keep up regular servicing and other maintenance items and youll be sweet
my engine needs a full rebuild, but ive picked up a lower km engine to drop in instead
Does anyone know what the suction noise is. Also do I need valve lash?
Thanks Lukey. Damn it- just looked at top hose after i read that- its leaking ~>:) More fun..
Aurnob88- **I CANT VIEW THE VIDEO** Yes you need 'valve lash' refer to http://www.ehow.com/about_5102025_valve-lash.htm.
Essentially its a little play in the valve-train to allow for the valves/cams/gears to expand as they get hot- otherwise the metal would expand and the valves would not close (the heat expands the metals which forces the valves open a few 10ths of a mm. And/Or when the motor was cold the valve wouldn't open fully (because there is too much play).
Not hard to do (as we have a screw and lock-nut design)- try working with shims on motorbikes for something painful.
Hardest things to teach people is the way a feeler gauge should feel when its 'rubbing' between the faces instead of being pinched; and how to tighten the locknut without moving the screw. (DOUBLE CHECK YOUR GAP AFTER YOU"VE TIGHTENED THE NUT.)
Only really 'weirdo' tool needed is a 10mm socket (FROM MEMORY) with a inbuilt screw driver (if you want to get hi-tech and make your life even easier) and feeler guages (most people dont own a set). Both are around 12-15 dollars if you look around.
Team integra has an article on how to do it.
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...djustment.html
Tex.
wear latex/nitrile gloves when doing it on a b series. those edges are sharp
video privacy settings have been fixed everyoneQuote:
Originally Posted by TexNAss
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