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  1. #37

    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Lukey View Post
    my teg has 301xxx kms on it and still going strong despite burning and leaking oil everywhere!
    Hell Lukey- now I don't feel so bad with my DC2 staring down the barrel of 200'000kms.. For the 200k celebrations its a B&M Short Shifter install.

    Valve stem seals are on order to stop its latest bad habit.

    Just done water pump/timing-belt last weekend; rear wheel bearings a fortnight ago(so much quieter and doesn't rattle any more); Brake Master Cylinder about 10k ago.....

    So do tell- what is next to fail, OOPS, I mean- what is next on replacement list?

    Tex

  2. #38
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW (Sydney)
    Car:
    Had a DC2 VTIR
    Anyone in Sydney want to offer to do it for me? Haha I'll ask benjamin
    DC2 VTI-R (INJEN-LIKE CAI, Unknown Extractors, 2 inch exhaust)

  3. #39
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW (Sydney)
    Car:
    Had a DC2 VTIR
    I think the ticking reduced after I topped IP the oil so maybe valve lashes are fine, supposedly last done 8 months ago. Should I still get it done anyway?
    DC2 VTI-R (INJEN-LIKE CAI, Unknown Extractors, 2 inch exhaust)

  4. #40
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW (Sydney)
    Car:
    Had a DC2 VTIR
    Last edited by aurnob88; 14-02-2012 at 11:48 AM.
    DC2 VTI-R (INJEN-LIKE CAI, Unknown Extractors, 2 inch exhaust)

  5. #41
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW (Sydney)
    Car:
    Had a DC2 VTIR
    thats the vid of the motor, can hear the ticking noise nad some vacuum noise ven thouigh fans arent on
    DC2 VTI-R (INJEN-LIKE CAI, Unknown Extractors, 2 inch exhaust)

  6. #42
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW (Sydney)
    Car:
    Had a DC2 VTIR
    i think the oil burning smell may be due to the old pcv valve on the intake manifold, it looks black as and old plugged in, from waht i can tell
    DC2 VTI-R (INJEN-LIKE CAI, Unknown Extractors, 2 inch exhaust)

  7. #43
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Traralgon
    Car:
    LOLWUT
    Quote Originally Posted by TexNAss View Post
    Hell Lukey- now I don't feel so bad with my DC2 staring down the barrel of 200'000kms.. For the 200k celebrations its a B&M Short Shifter install.

    Valve stem seals are on order to stop its latest bad habit.

    Just done water pump/timing-belt last weekend; rear wheel bearings a fortnight ago(so much quieter and doesn't rattle any more); Brake Master Cylinder about 10k ago.....

    So do tell- what is next to fail, OOPS, I mean- what is next on replacement list?

    Tex
    replace whatever fails lol. ive had a ignition coil in the dizzy die on me, my cmc leaks brakefluid at the clutch pedal and has done for years, just like my oils leaks i dont really care lol i just keep topping it up.

    my brake proportional valve leaks brake fluid.

    had top radiator hose explode but again that was my laziness not replacing it when i knew it needed to be.

    just keep up regular servicing and other maintenance items and youll be sweet

    my engine needs a full rebuild, but ive picked up a lower km engine to drop in instead

    some kids garage
    A true car enthusiast appreciates the time, effort and money put into ANY sort of car, modified in ANY sort of style, whether they may like it or not.

  8. #44
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW (Sydney)
    Car:
    Had a DC2 VTIR
    Does anyone know what the suction noise is. Also do I need valve lash?
    DC2 VTI-R (INJEN-LIKE CAI, Unknown Extractors, 2 inch exhaust)

  9. #45
    Thanks Lukey. Damn it- just looked at top hose after i read that- its leaking ~>:) More fun..

    Aurnob88- **I CANT VIEW THE VIDEO** Yes you need 'valve lash' refer to http://www.ehow.com/about_5102025_valve-lash.htm.
    Essentially its a little play in the valve-train to allow for the valves/cams/gears to expand as they get hot- otherwise the metal would expand and the valves would not close (the heat expands the metals which forces the valves open a few 10ths of a mm. And/Or when the motor was cold the valve wouldn't open fully (because there is too much play).

    Not hard to do (as we have a screw and lock-nut design)- try working with shims on motorbikes for something painful.

    Hardest things to teach people is the way a feeler gauge should feel when its 'rubbing' between the faces instead of being pinched; and how to tighten the locknut without moving the screw. (DOUBLE CHECK YOUR GAP AFTER YOU"VE TIGHTENED THE NUT.)

    Only really 'weirdo' tool needed is a 10mm socket (FROM MEMORY) with a inbuilt screw driver (if you want to get hi-tech and make your life even easier) and feeler guages (most people dont own a set). Both are around 12-15 dollars if you look around.

    Team integra has an article on how to do it.
    http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...djustment.html

    Tex.

  10. #46
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    P1.5 460F/350R
    wear latex/nitrile gloves when doing it on a b series. those edges are sharp
    S P A M | W O R K S
    With our special rotational tires, it will allow you to drive very fast. - JK Tyre

  11. #47
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW (Sydney)
    Car:
    Had a DC2 VTIR
    Quote Originally Posted by TexNAss View Post
    Thanks Lukey. Damn it- just looked at top hose after i read that- its leaking ~> More fun..

    Aurnob88- **I CANT VIEW THE VIDEO** Yes you need 'valve lash' refer to http://www.ehow.com/about_5102025_valve-lash.htm.
    Essentially its a little play in the valve-train to allow for the valves/cams/gears to expand as they get hot- otherwise the metal would expand and the valves would not close (the heat expands the metals which forces the valves open a few 10ths of a mm. And/Or when the motor was cold the valve wouldn't open fully (because there is too much play).

    Not hard to do (as we have a screw and lock-nut design)- try working with shims on motorbikes for something painful.

    Hardest things to teach people is the way a feeler gauge should feel when its 'rubbing' between the faces instead of being pinched; and how to tighten the locknut without moving the screw. (DOUBLE CHECK YOUR GAP AFTER YOU"VE TIGHTENED THE NUT.)

    Only really 'weirdo' tool needed is a 10mm socket (FROM MEMORY) with a inbuilt screw driver (if you want to get hi-tech and make your life even easier) and feeler guages (most people dont own a set). Both are around 12-15 dollars if you look around.

    Team integra has an article on how to do it.
    http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...djustment.html

    Tex.
    video privacy settings have been fixed everyone
    DC2 VTI-R (INJEN-LIKE CAI, Unknown Extractors, 2 inch exhaust)

  12. #48
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW (Sydney)
    Car:
    Had a DC2 VTIR
    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/t0jRGFwY2Hc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
    DC2 VTI-R (INJEN-LIKE CAI, Unknown Extractors, 2 inch exhaust)

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