nah I always recommend genuine shit to customers but they always say "cheap cheap cheap" what can you do at the end of the day? it's their call not mine. I'm using nothing but genuine fluids in my ride even the oil + filters
nah I always recommend genuine shit to customers but they always say "cheap cheap cheap" what can you do at the end of the day? it's their call not mine. I'm using nothing but genuine fluids in my ride even the oil + filters
thanks for the site...umm yea i know its still is $55 because it comes in freakn 4Ltr for $55 or 1Ltr for $15 :zip:Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
on that site there is WET & DRY for Oil and ATF capacity, there seems to be a big diff, what is WET & DRY?
e.g ATF is 2.7L WET and 5.9Ltr DRY
1 more thing, it says its for the 4-door, mine is 3-door, any diff??
Wet should refer to just a drain and refill, and dry being after a pull down and rebuild.Quote:
Originally Posted by c00lman
OK thanks...
i need a Auto Transmission Fluid change Guide.
dunno where to start all i got is the fluid & a cone
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
- rais the front of the vehicle and support it on safety stands
- place a drip tray under the trans
- use a 3/8th wratchet and crack the drain plug.
- by hand loosen the drain plug and align the drip tray with the plus as you remove the plug to catch the pouring oil.
- wait until no more oil comes out. 10 min or so. ( some times you will forever get a trickle of oil coming out as the torque converter drains abit )
- clean the magnet on the drain bolt and replace the aluminum washer.
- refit the drain bolt, do not overtighten it, but dont leave it loose, nice and firm
- lower the vehicle to the ground, make sure the car is level
- remove the trans dip stick.
- I use a funnel and some clear tube. place your funnel in the dipstick hole and pour your 2.5l in
- put the dip stick in.
- start the car, whith the park brake up, place your foot on the brake pedal firmly.
- select R, then D4 then R then D4 then R then D4 the put it in P.
- turn off the engine
- with in 10 seconds remove the dipstick, clean it with a rag, seat it back in the dipstick hole and remove it and check the level. top up if nessary but do not overfill.
- refit the dipstick when done
if the engine/trans is cold, the fluid should register on the lower portion of the dipstick level marking
if the engine/trans is hot, the fluid should register on the high portion of the dipstick level marking
its your choice if you do the above when the car is hot or cold. hot is better but you risk burning yourself as you remove the drain plug with the hot oil coming out.
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
thanx heapz... ;)
the drain plug, is there only 1 of em?
yes for automatics
hmmm idiots shulda made the dipstick hole a lil wider .. ive been calling around to find a bloody narrow funnel.. not very easy... supacheap apparently has some.
clear hose over the end of a small funnel works fine, go to a hardware store and get some.
I get my small funnel for ATF from the discount store. $0.50 each or $1.50 for a set of 3 in various sizes. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by c00lman
another idea if you have some cash is buy some castrol dexIII (I think) 4 liters, I bought a bottle for my moms car and it had an extend-able filler neck, I kept the bottle cos it's dam handy and cheaper than buying a funnel + hose attachment.
Worth it if you are doing 2 cars. No point if you are going to use half and keep the remainder for another half year while it starts to get contaminated with moisture.