The SSS were on Nick's car. I'm now using Project Mu NR that I installed at the same time as the DBA4000.Quote:
Originally Posted by TRaNz
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The SSS were on Nick's car. I'm now using Project Mu NR that I installed at the same time as the DBA4000.Quote:
Originally Posted by TRaNz
Thought I might chime in. Around 3 months ago I started experiencing brake shudder in my 03 Euro. I checked my front pads (stock) and they looked fine and had lots of meat left. After reading varoius posts regarding shudder under brakes, I decided to change my front pads (to try and remove the build up and at the same time get some more bite). So I have been using the Acre pads and they are absolutely awesome. It took around 3 weeks of daily driving to get rid of the brake shudder and assumingly remove the deposits. I now have super smooth braking and significantly higher bite than the stock pads. There is however more brake dust but it is a wrothy tradeoff.....
I had shudders on my brakes and ended up changing the rotors to RBA Slotted rotors and RBA rotors. Heaps of dust but brakes great! Maybe I should have just changed the pads to save some $$$
How much would an average set of pads cost (4)?? Was quoted $168 installed. Is that a good price or should I maybe try DIY? A bit concerned about safety of DIY'ing.
Will Oem rotors be ok for the odd track day?
Yes, they will be ok. Pad selection is more important.Quote:
Originally Posted by acura_ek1
ok both my rear brakes are starting to make the sound that tells me i need to change the brake pads.
as im going to be selling the car off what is the cheapest but still safe option out there ?
and DIY shouldnt be too hard i imagine ?
how much did you guys pay for bendix general gt's ?
im assuming i can just pop into supercheap/autobarn to get a set ?
supercheap is hopeless, either go to autobarn or bursons.
will i need a part number or something to bring with me when i go to autobarn.
any help will be great. gonna go get a set tomorrow
Repco had a fathers day special on the bendix gct pads, rear retail $107, fathers day price with free bottle of repco brake fluid $63.99 and fronts retail $117, fathers day price with free bottle of repco brake fluid $63.99
I just bought Bendix General CT for the rear for $60, they feel exactly the same as OEM, installed them myself....versus Honda OEM at $135 + $90 installation as quoted at my last service. Could not justify paying 2 1/4 times more (for pads only) when they are equally just as good, if not better.
Thought I'd report back. I never ended up changing anything with my braking wobble problem. I finished doing contract work in that area (driving from east side of melbourne to the west side) so I no longer drive on that freeway which seem to have caused the issue. The wobble has becoming much less noticable now eventhought I still take the freeway from east side to the CBD.
Thread Revive.
My Euro's 7 yrs old and done almost 130k.
Still on original rotors, and had a pair of Bendix pads in 30k ago.
Its dusty as *** and ate the rotor pretty badly, I've lost all initial bite and the service person told me to replace the rotor like... *NOW*
I'm looking at below setup;:
RDA Slotted Rotor + EBC RED STUFF (the Kevlar/Ceramic one, I wont pay more than $150 for the front pair, eBay as price guide).
What do y'all think? And anyone know how much RDA slotted rotors would cost? Considering a EBC Ultimax slotted is only $170 odd USD on ebay... Aussie retailers'd better not try to rip us off.
RDA's a fine. JDMYard sells them, so check out their thread. EBC Redstuff is pretty aggressive though, so be ready to replace the rotors sooner than you had to with the original ones.
Got my slotted RDA rotors from JDMYard. Got a set of RDA pads as well and they work really well. Paid something like 240 or 270 for a set of slotted front rotors. Nice bite and feel. Shame about the brake dust tough. It is dusty like a european car.
Update:Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Got some quotes
EBC slotted: $235 front pair (WHAT A RIPOFF... considering it come out of the same factory as entry level DBA's... in China) UK made EBC's are cheaper in the states:thumbdwn: 20% cheaper....
EBC redstuff for euro: not available in this country. not even in their catalog....
EBC redstuff is like... cheap ceramic pads tho lol, I just want some ceramic pads that doesnt product a crap load of dust and last longer.
I've considered EBC green but heard a lot of bad stories about it eating the rotor like all hell... so if the rotor's gonna be eaten, I might as well get some more stopping power out of it.
**UPDATE** Change of plans, Im getting Hawk HPS pads instead.
anyone know where i can buy dixcel type z from ?
any1 know how long OEM brakes are supposed to last for CU2? i swear i heard some squealling while braking in a quiet carpark yesterday. its almost hit 30000kms
i read on acurazine that honda messed up the brakes in the CU2 in that they brake too hard so one set wears down faster unneccessarily
the squealing doesn't necessarily mean anything.
My brakes were squealing, dealer told me they needed replacing about a month earlier. Bought Hawks pads, think they were HPS can't remember, took it to 3rd party to get installed. Mech showed me just how much meat was left on the squeaking pad, and it was rediculous. You know how it works these days, brakes squeak, dealer tells you to change, buy OEM pads, pay out your arse for something that doesn't need replacing
how will i noeee when to replace then
without a squeel to guide me, i am but a lost soul!
if you can be stuffed, take out your pads
take off your tyre and you should be able to see how much meat is left on the pad without needing to take the pad out.Quote:
Originally Posted by furythree
Me too thinking of replacing the brakes on the 04 Euro. I noticed left front disc is uneven (jagged or ripple) all around the front right has a deep scratch on the disc. Each time mechanic say the pads are still good until I notice a loud shudder one day when braking hard. Rear Discs looks ok.
Now I'm thinking of getting the DBA Street Series (slotted) Rotors and Acre Pads for the fronts and OEM pads for the rear. Has anyone used those mentioned and what do you think of them?
Also do I need to change the rear disc if the fronts are changed to slotted rotor?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Euro1011
RDA slotted is a bit overkill for a stock euro, It'll cost too much... Not worth it. They all come out of the same factory in china anyhow... Oem pads are too expansive, you can get Hawx pads all round.. eBay is your friend considering Aussie dollar is MORE the us dollar now.
I got front and rear rotors from USA recently, slotted and drilled , under $300 for the lot shipped to my door.
had the euro serviced today and was told that the front brake pads need doing BUT had approx 5000km left in them........i think he was expecting me to say " go right ahead, cos 5000km of brake pad will be used up in a week?!?!?"
Anyways dont know if i will keep the euro within the next 12 months or so, niggling little things are starting to go wrong with it. In the meantime, i guess the general opinion is to use EBC pads?
Hey Fredoops, do you know what's the part number for the front and rear hawk pads and also which brand and rotors did you get? If you can please provide a model number. I may want to get these soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
Thanks heaps
just search Acura TSX on ebay lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Euro1011
for example:
mine was
2004 Acura TSX
I recently changed to DBA basic (street series?) slotted rotors. DBA are better than RDA, and are well known to be of better quality and resistant to warping than OEM. I changed them a week after I got the car as it had severe shudder, and also changed the pads to Bendix General CT. I can't really make a comparison as the car obviously had bad shudder previously, but I have on complaints with the new setup. Brakes are quite, brake very well (seem to be a bit more responsive after a couple of weeks driving), and not much brake dust.Quote:
Originally Posted by Euro1011
They are not really that expensive as another member said. I think I paid about $300 from supercheap auto. I thought it was better than simply machining my old disks, as I got a brand new pair of better quality rotors that are unlikely to warp anytime soon. There is also no need to change the rear rotors just because you put slotted rotors on the front. Can't help you with the Acre pads as I have never heard of them.
Ollie
Thanks Ollie and Fredoops for your feedback.
I'll check out the rotors at SuperCheap. I'm still contemplating on the pads. Saw two types of Hawks on ebay..HPS & PC...not sure which one to get. Price is about $4 difference. Might even check out the Bendix General CT like Ollie mentioned
I hear Acre pads are good made in Japan.JDM Yard has them $150 a set.
DBA Slotted are lot more expansive, DBA slotted is $197 RRP EACH so just under $400 for the pair out the front retail, which is not really different from the RDA Slotted, costing $230 for a pair out the front.Quote:
Originally Posted by opilot87
RDA and DBA even use the same factory in China as far as I remember, the only difference is the kangaroo paw design on some of the DBA rotors
- benefit of the "Kangaroo Paw" isnt all that much unless you drive like a hoon or on race track, in which case it's not the front vented brake disks you'll need to worry about... the rear solid disks will shit itself looooong before your front end dies.
The only DBA rotors thats made in Australia are the 4000 or 5000 series rotors, which is like $400 each...
My Rotors are from 88Rotors Carlifornia, made in the USA as far as im concerned. http://www.88rotors.com/
The Acre "Superfighter" series they sell here are organic pads... I cant remember who actually tried to sell organic pads for $150 lol..... They arent even Semi metallic. I'd stick with Hawx HPS for the same pricetag. Or spend 10% more and get Hawx Ceramic Pads... it'll last you FOREVER and no dust at allQuote:
Originally Posted by tony1234
Look up Hawk HPS online, people have nothign but good things to say about it.. you wont regret it, and it'll last you forever too.
ive taken my euro for a service by astoria, and they have said front brake pads are worn down to 40% (i believe they are being truthful) cuz my indicators are screeching when i brake at very cold temps. im going to replace the fronts only as the rears still have 80% on it
im thinking about putting on bendix DB1393 general CT's
are these easily obtained? ive been going on websites to look at pricing and they seem to be around $70-$80 a pair so im going to be forking out about $140-$160 (not inc shipping i think)
can supercheap auto/bursons/autobahn provide me with these pads for cheaper?
and also, i tend to like to whack my car back into 2nd gear n floor it sometimes dont stop till i finish 4th, so i do some heavy stoppage.
i have a feeling im being a little paranoid, but will these front brake pads improve my stoppage? im sorta sure that im not doing anything diferent than anyone else.
not interested in more expensive brake pads,
I'm running DBA 4000 blanks on the front and standard DBA blanks on the rear. Cost me about $600 all up for front and rear.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
I used to use Hawk Ceramic pads and they do dust. The dust is brown in colour, but there is still more dust than the original pads. Hawk Ceramic is also a street pad, so I wouldn't be expecting them to give you super high performance braking like what ou can get with the metallic pads.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
As long as you know what part you want, any auto part shop can order the pads for you from the local distributor. Which state are you in? I'm in NSW and I use Streetech which is a family run business in Seven Hills for my parts and the prices have been much cheaper than going through a place like Supercheap or Bursons.Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapdouchebag
Dba rotors for $400! you could get a set on J's racing fronts for cheaper! cough cough* click below my name ;)
hahaha
i never tried the acre's but ive tried the hawk ceramics! they were good! way better than stock imo! hehe
I'm getting the front rotors and brake pads all around replace tomorrow. Do I need to bleed the brake fluid and replace with new fluid or just top up? Had the car for about 6 years and don't think the brake fluid has been changed before.
To bleed and replace, how many bottles of brake fluid will I need to get from dealer?
Since it is 6 years without a change of brake fluid, I'd syphon all the brake fluid out of the reservoir and then refill with new brake fluid. Then you will need to push all the brake fluid through the lines and out through each caliper, making sure you top up the reservoir at all times. When I do it, it usually takes 1 bottle, but I'd prefer to have 2 bottles ready just in case!Quote:
Originally Posted by Euro1011
Good deal there, hope someone snaps it up. I would if I didn't have my DBA4000s.Quote:
Originally Posted by enkay
Had the front rotors replaced yesterday to the DBA Slotted Street Series and brake pads to Bendix GCT and also the bleed the fluid. Noticed during braking, I had to push the brake pedal down more in order to stop. Asked the mechanic and he said because the brakes are new, give it time to run in and also the Bendix GCT pads are softer pads compared to the Honda pads which are harder pads.
Hmmm, is this correct or the brake needs some adjustment or other problem? I would have thought pushing down the pedal slightly would stop the car rather than having to push the pedal nearly all the way down. Drove the wife's Toyota this morning and only had to press the brake pedal slightly and the would stop.
Appreciate anyone could assist.
I got got this from another forum and have summarised it for easier understanding. I did this after I changed the pads on my evo and it felt a lot better after. But the general ct's are quite bad theyre good enough for a euro
You need to bed in the pads, do a good half a dozen or so hard brakes from high speed around 100 - 140km's. Hard but not hard enough to make the abs kick in.
Down to around 40/50 kms and again. Keep doing it again and again until you can smell the pads and the brake pedals feels a bit softer. Assign yourself a brake check point. As you are getting back up to speed drag the brakes with your left foot up to your brake check point.
Cruise around for a bit trying not to stop to let them cool down.
So what does this do? Ill just explain it briefly
What this does is takes the pads through a heat cycle, as they reach high temp the bonding agents soften and compress together.
After repeated heat cycles and pressure from hard braking, the pad material will be more compounded making the bonds more rigid.
The pads are also now shaped to match the rotors giving a more consistent brake pedal feel.
Dragging the brake with your left foot will transfer some brake pad material onto your rotors, this will make them stickier and help in resisting fading.
i got project Mus and they are Great =D
just my 2 cents
Hi Guys,
Getting some serious shudder under braking on my 2003 Euro so I think new rotors are in order. No idea where to start really, just wondering if these are any good?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ACCORD-CH...ht_3668wt_1140
Any advice would be great, cheers!
mate you dont need to necesarily get new rotors - get the thickness measured and as long as its within spec you can machine them and good as new. All for a fraction of the cost of new rotors....
make sure to get new pads and bed them in properly to maximise life and braking feel
Quote:
Originally Posted by hooyn
Not right - the usual bedding procedure is from 50-60km/h to ALMOST dead stop and keep driving , keep doing this 60-5km/h hard stop 6-8 times then go for a light cruise for 5 mins to let the brakes cool down.
Where can you go to 140km/h to 50km/h back and forth ? Load of tripe and unsafe - on new pads this may end up in disaster as the pads have no grip yet - you may end up with no brakes straight up the ass of a truck
I actually got the rotor's machined back in 2008, can they be done again? CheersQuote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
Please grab a vernier caliper....and measure the exact thickness now. If its within range ( new is 28mm thick) then its OK to machine. But if its on the limit (should be printed on the actual rotor itself) you will need to replace. Sorry I dont have teh workshop manual - shoudl state it in there !Quote:
Originally Posted by mrshibby
Thanks for your help! :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
Stock Euro pads are notorious for leaving deposits on the hot rotor. Very bad if you have an auto as you would be sitting at the lights with your foot firmly on the brakes. Instead of machining, I would replace the brake pads to something more sporty (like Hawk HP) and let it clean the deposits off the rotor. I don't like to machine rotors.
can anyone tell me if its possible to fit cu2 rear brake pads in a cl9? ive looked at the dimensions and im guessing i could sand off the edges of the metal plates on the brake pads. Can anyone confirm this? reason being was just brake pad shopping before
found hawks HPS front and rear for $160 inc shipping. Except the rear pads are slightly longer on the edges, and a about 2mm shorter.
Heres what ive dug up
http://www.kingtekbrakes.com/imageho...rams/HB626.gif
Thats the CU2 rear brake pads
and this is the actual cl9 HPS rear pads dimensons
http://hawkperformance.iwebcat.com/imgVD/HAW/HB-145.jpg
Can anyone recommend pads for the front that would be a good match with the DBA 4000? Just daily street use.
Also Aaron, would you happen to know of any good places to get cheap DBA 4000 standard/slotted?
Where do you get the Acre brake pads from ???Quote:
Originally Posted by panda_oz
Can anyone confirm if the part numbers on the bendix site are correct? Front 1393, rear 1265? Autobarn have a 25% off sale at the moment and it's time to replace the mrs. brake pads.
Thanks if anyone can confirm.
Well an update... Bought the REMSA brake pads from GSL Rallysport... excellent service, about $165 for all four corners. Free shipping if you buy all four pads. Honda OEM was about $130 for fronts only (trade price according to the dealership I went to). Was all set to have them installed today after being told they needed replacing at the last service. Took it to a mechanic I'd been going to more regularly for the last 12 months for one of my other cars - pads have plenty of meat left he tells me! So should have checked myself rather then believeing the dealership. Oh well, at least I've got pads spare when needed.
Out of curiosity what material are the oem pads made from?
Shit.Quote:
Originally Posted by insanesam
Well the Bendix GCT lasted me 30k km, the slotted/dimpled rotor pretty much munched it over the past year.
Now I'm getting spongy and lower pedal even after brake fluid flush :-/
So I'm getting a set of EBC Ultimax front pads from UK for $71 AUD to my door, can't argue with the price. Will report on how they go.
Now I just hope there's no problem with the 9yo brake lines..
I have just upgraded my brakes today. DBA Street Slotted Rotors front and rear, Honda Brake Fluid and Honda Pads...
Just read the message from tony1234 that the pads are made of shit??? Crap...
For Honda OEM prices you could get much Much better pads.Quote:
Originally Posted by sk3103
Endless FTW!
Update:
The EBC ultimax pads arrived today from UK, cost 73 dollars or so off eBay.
Now just need to find a decent mechanic to have them installed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/1622abf0.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/161d6324.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/7ffec6a3.jpg
EDIT:Hmm this is interesting, the Acura TSX uses EBC part number "UD787" I got part number DP1525, which is used for European CL9's.
This would be fun if it doesnt fit.....
EDIT: anyone can take a photo of their used front pads? Looks like mine won't fit. Cause they are made for EUDM lucas calipers instead of Nissin JDM/USDM calipers. **** my life
Yep... Got the wrong one...
http://www.jnbk-brakes.com/catalogue...ke/1721/PN8465
Vs
http://www.jnbk-brakes.com/catalogue...ke/1691/PN8125
ouch, u gonna get the same again (right part of course)?
Yup, you got the wrong pads. Those look like they are for the CL1 European Accord. For CL9, the safest way is to stick to whatever the CL9 tsx and Jdm CL7 uses.
Yep they were the wrong pad, EUDM accord uses lucas calipers instead of Nissin for everyone else.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
So I went get some GCT instead
I just got these black ultimax installed today, had them ordered in from a RDA dealer $65
Hey guys, needs some input here. So been doing my research as to what parts to upgrade for daily plus tracking purposes. Read good things about DBA (4000) so am thinking going down this route.
Front Rotors
Cheapest quote I could get for DBAs here in Aus
DBA 42510 4000 series $150 each
DBA 42510S $185 each (4000 slotted)
DBA 2510 street series $75 each
DBA 2410S $130 each (street slotted)
For fronts I guess best is to go DBA4000 standard.
Rear Rotors
Cheapest quote I could get for DBAs here in Aus
DBA 42511 $132 each (4000 series)
DBA 42511S $165 each (4000 slotted)
DBA 2511 $50 each (street series)
DBA 2511S $150 each (street slotted)
I am unsure about the rear rotors now, as the DBA4000s are a bit pricey. Would the DBA street series be good enough for tracking? If I remember correctly Aarong had the street series for the rears and does track?
Pads
I do not want pads that would eat into the rotor, but good enough for track purposes (and daily). For the occasional track Project Mu b-spec at $388 could be had. No idea though how aggressive they are on the rotors.
However the Hawk HP plus pads have good reviews and dont chew up rotors. They do dust alot (which I wont be happy about) and squeal on light braking, but I guess such pads that are good for tracking do that (even the Project Mu’s?). The Hawk HP plus pads can be had for about 250-270 shipped (may be possible to get it for around 200 shipped, waiting on a reply).
Any other recommendation for pads, not harsh on rotors but good for track (and even better less dusting and noise)? Couldnt figure out how the EBC ultimax pads are.
Thanks again.
On another note, I havnt tracked before but I do think once I do I will def do it again. So thats why Im looking at getting something that will hold up good and last the distance.
Roony I matched up some REMSA pads (GSL Rallysport) with my DBA 4000 slotted and I cant fault em. Took em to Wakefield last month in reasonably hot conditions and they took the punishment. Quiet, great bite and feel. Paid $89 for fronts $79 for rears. Not much info available on the net as they are a fairly recent arrival in OZ.
Sounds good. An feedback on if they are harsh on the rotors? Are you running dba4000 for rears too? Thanks
No i'm keeping the stock rear rotors for now. They seem to be doing the Job,if they dont I'll happily replaced with some more DBA4000's. I've done 230 laps of Wakefield and 28,000km on these rotors and wear seems reasonable. Keep in mind the Vti only weighs 1180kg. I'm confident they will go another 100K + in the next 2 years.
Great info thanks. I did a quick search on the remsa pads and what little info there is seem good. The fact that ur also on stock rear rotors, ill probably just go for the dba rear street series
Hey guys, checking out the REMSA pads at GSL Rallysport. The person wanted to confrim if the pads look like these,
http://www.bendix.com.au/sites/defau...1393-Inner.gif
http://www.bendix.com.au/sites/defau...gif/db1265.gif
I dont know if they are like this. Anyone can confirm?
thanks. Some info on the REMSA pads:
"Remsa is a European performance pad which is rated to 650 degrees, and with a high carbon content, they provide low rotor wear. Also the Remsa come with noise reducing features such as a relief groove and chamfers in the pad material, as well as a soft backing shim. We've been supplying Remsa to high performance street road cars like Porsche and Ferrari for many years, but the pricing has now become such that we're now able to expand it to most road cars. We class these as being a step below the A1RM’s."
My mechanic said I have less than 1% of my original brake pads left. I drive an 05 accord euro, is that CL9 and is it the same as the US version of 05 Acura TSX?
Do you think this will fit? It's only $52 dollars + 20 dollars postage to Australia from amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
should be fine, but 20 dollar shipping? you that desperate for a new pad?Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyw
i just got front DBA t3 4000s... recommendation of brake pads???
You going to see the track much? Or having lots of fun daily?
yeeeeeeeeee, i just got mine put in just before with new Endless NS97 pads.Quote:
Originally Posted by -[NoS]-
used to run DBA 4000 wiper slot with Endless SSS.....pads wore out and cbf machining the rotors.....i like new things...LMFAO
^
What TRaNz has is a good option to go with your CL9 if you're after more bite and some fun =)
SSM in Endless is also an option if you want something slightly less abrasive than the NS97 ;)
just for daily driving.... autobarn only has bendix pads... but they didnt know which ones fit my car....