thanks man . appreciate it. but i can still run obd2 on my car right? with the right wiring and stuff?Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
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thanks man . appreciate it. but i can still run obd2 on my car right? with the right wiring and stuff?Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
how about headers?? will there be fitment issues if I buy a header (being short or long) ,. planning to buy all the stuff i need so my mechanic would install it all at once.Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
Just a heads up for those that dont know and happen to dislike the old DA key you can buy and use the DC2 Integra key and have it cut for our DA's
I got mine years ago but from memory was only about $30 and looks much more stylish than this
http://www.shopresponse.com/da_integra_key.jpg
And the later DC2 key
http://static.traderscity.com/board/...-t5-chip-1.jpg
I know its useless but for fussy types it might be worth it :)
nice^^ good to know
hey guys i am just wanting to know how low should i go....i am getting springs made and recompressed....one of my mates told me go 3 1/2 inches lower than stock...is this too much???? or should i go 3 inches....im going to be running 15's no fancy body kit or anything...just maybe a front lip..
3 inch would be sitting just above the tyres I think. I was tucking at the rear once upon a time and the damn thing would hit the undercarriage everywhere, buggered up my RTA bushings and was just a general pain in the ass. I was on coil overs and not entirely sure of the drop but I think it was about 4 inches.
Just get a tape measure out...
Depends on whether you want to be legal or not, and what sort of comfort/ride you desire. Most States you must have a minimum road clearance of 100mm (fully laden) and some also limit the amount of suspension travel you can reduce by. Lowering by 35mm (1 1/4" approx) is generally acceptable, anything more you could have law problems. But that's up to you.
Going off the top of my head and I would have to double check but I believe legal height for the DA is 355mm front and 340mm rear, from the middle of the wheel to the top of the arch. This is to preserve travel of the suspension, they dont take in to account that you may have aftermarket shocks etc. Need engineering cert to cover things like that if you want to stay legal.
Plus what pop said, 100mm clearance on rest of the car including mud flaps, exhaust etc.
[QUOTE=mooshie;3186092
Plus what pop said, 100mm clearance on rest of the car including mud flaps, exhaust etc.[/QUOTE]
mud flaps rnt a structural part of the car? neither is exhuast but manage to get done for that anyway.
cuz mudflaps pretty much drag along haha
Hah ! That explains why most DA9's, CRX's don't have any mudflaps. You want to come into my local shopping centre at Morayfield, even my stock height Teg scrapes on their speed bumps.
Found this from vicroads explains in very simple terms- http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rd...340/0/VSI8.pdf
Apparently only applies to 1m fore or aft of any axle, therefore the exhaust could potentially hang lower right in the middle of the car.
Everything I have ever seen includes mud flaps when talkin ground clearance.
My bog standard DA6 front flaps are the lowest point on my car at 115mm but I believe the DA6 sits slightly lower than the 9, never been able to confirm this however. Cool, I can lower by all of half an inch!
in a b18c2 swap , will there be problems of a aftermarket header being short or long to the cat? and or headers hitting the oil pan?
Won't be a problem with the oil pan and you would need to get an exhaust shop to match up your existing exhaust as it would be unlikely to mate up perfectly. Minor issue though
Hey guys, has anyone got a set of bigger sway bars for the DA they want to sell? PM Me plz.
Hey guys, saved up a bit of money and was looking at a few mods to increase performance.
The rear section of my exhaust (from the flange in front of the diff to the tip) is rusted like all hell, and was wondering if I increased the size (to say, 2.25" press bent) and deleted the stock muffler to add a nice flowing aftermarket one, would I see an increase in performance? Economy? I want to reduce the amount of bends as the stock exhaust looks incredibly restrictive towards the rear.
Also, I was looking at buying a cheap eBay SRI and making my own heat shield/CAI pipe in the bumper, any suggestions here?
Cheers.
Why not just get a cold air intake from ebay instead? They're only ~$85 shipped. I bought one and it fit perfectly.
Did you notice any difference in throttle response? Do you remember the seller you bought it from? Cheers.
hey da9ners , can someone give me at least a rep point si i can sell items. pleaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaase.
You will see a slight increase in performance from the better flowing muffler but do the whole cat back at least. That way you can upgrade the header and cat later on without having to muck around with the mid section again.mdont expect much of an increase either way though.Quote:
Originally Posted by 93Integra
Post something interesting or informative that I don't already know and I will give you one! You have been doing lots of research so surely you have learnt something?Quote:
Originally Posted by maaaaark
Cheers Mooshie, doing the whole cat-back is a bit out of my price range, and only the diff-tip section needs to be replaced, not after huge gains, just a nicer note than factory and a bit of extra flow.
By diff to the tip i assume you mean the rear section from the rear suspension as the diff in our cars is in the gearbox next to the engine... Missed that before! If you just want to do it cheap and only want a slightly deeper sound then get a Lukey or similar muffler and mount it transverse like OEM, don't go for the cannon straight through style as this will be a lot louder and sound crap.
To be honest, not really. I had already removed the piping before the filter, but not the resonator. Mad induction noise when going WOT though. Sorry, can't remember the seller. All the one-piece CAIs on ebay look the same anyway, they probably come from the same factory. Have a look for a little tab near the filter that mounts to one of the old air box holes, it secures the intake.Quote:
Originally Posted by 93Integra
anyone gonna be interested in brian crower stage 2 NA cams?
im moving to turbo so need some turbos ones
or shud i be posting on ebay when time comes?
Sorry, my last car was an R31 so I'm still in the RWD mode of thinking haha. Yea, the flanged section that starts just before the back wheels.
I would never put a cannon on any car I own, they sound like arse, literally =/. I'll see if he can bump the size up to 2.25" or something, and just put a nice flowing muffler on the end, cheers :)
No worries Rayle, I'll have a browse, thanks for the reply guys :).
Don't want the cams sorry but what's the plan for turbo?!Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
Hey boys, do any other sway bars fit on a DA?
long time to answer, but for fromt sway bar only the DA will fit. for rear you can fit any DC sway including Type R but you will need some form of subframe reinforcement kit as our subframes have a lighter design due to our rear sways mounting to brackets on the chassis.
In other news, I scored a coin tray in perfect condition today! only issue is that it is black, my turbo DA9 has a grey interior and i already have a coin tray in the DA6's blue interior. I do have a black interior in the red wreck but there are other parts of that interior that are not immaculate.. what to do?!
give to me ? lolz
Bleach it ?
can you just change the face?Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
don't know, just asking.
Thanks for your reply. I've got a rear lower tie bar. Will that be enough to upgrade the rear sway bar?Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
Nah, tie bar doesn't generally reinforce the mounting area where you would need to drill holes easiest way is probably the ASR setup. Don't know of any other commercially available alternative at the moment for the DA
i neeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeed a rep poiiiiiiiiiiiiiiint pleaaaaaaaaaase helpppppppppp me fellassssss
Pm me wot ur tryn to sell,Quote:
Originally Posted by maaaaark
might want something
You haven't posted anything since your last request!Quote:
Originally Posted by maaaaark
As I said last time, give us a trinket of information and I'll give you a rep, nothing comes for free!
(check g2ic and Honda-tech, lots of good info there) plus gotta stick to the rules of the forum and not just give out reps for nothing
+1 =)Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
doing a swap........
ive seen a ecu conversion harness from rywire.com obd0-obd2a with vtec wires and sensors. what do you think is better ? having my mechanic getting all the wires from the wrecked 96 vtir to be put in my DA or just have the conversion harness??
what header with a 2.5 collector would clear the oil pan and the crossmember on a b18c2 swap????
I would never swap an entire chassis and engine harness, there will an exponential increase in problems. Use the conversion harness or just do it yourself (not hard).Quote:
Originally Posted by maaaaark
As for header, you can get one custom made at Westside Mufflers otherwise I've used a crappy xforce header which fit but only had 2.25 collector.
headers if u get them 4 to 1 usually dont clear the cross memeber regardless of engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by maaaaark
but b18c2 has same block height so it shud clear the sump.
haha i converted mine from obd0 to odb1, but i did some massive wire tucking at same time thoQuote:
Originally Posted by stocky
^^ looking at having a go at this conversion with mine... just trying to source parts atm.
it sucks mostly cuz u gotta take your dash out :(Quote:
Originally Posted by menacer
Dash removal sucks balls
also hated removing sunroof .............alone
Big job, removing a sunroof ain't it, even with 2 people. How'd you manage it on your own without damaging some thing ? Even worse, how did you get it back in ?Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
yea not looking forward to it but its getting boosted at the end of the year, n from wat ive read its gonna be worth doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
if ur gonna wire tuck and boost i highly recommend you put your battery in your boot. Saves so much room at the front. and your pimpin haha
heres mine
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...6/IMAG0067.jpg
heres something ive done lately...for my epic heel and toe action
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...6/IMAG0068.jpg
^^ mugen pedal pads??
n nice mod too btw, had a fella in at work the other day his method was to screw a pedal pad half on half off the pedal.... looked sooooo sketchy.
yeh mugen pedals, haha these are on pretty well, cept i was lil wonky with the clutch one, i noticed.....
a very sore back mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
easier coming out then going in trust me lol
i balanced the whole thing on my back and lifted it slowly into position , took a few goes to get it in
soooo my engine went bang today...dont know exactly whats wrong yet, inspecting it tomorrow....
but yeh...not looking cheap fix
Noooooooooooooooooooo
man thas fkn bullshiz^^^
well my b18a1 is offically dead, see my thread for more details
Damn. Was great to see someone going the non VTEC route and now it's gone!
i know, hope steve can get her back up asapQuote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
hey guys, want to see how much interest i get in parts.
basically all my b series stuff that u see in my thread.
and anything trim wise, from the drivers seats back for sale.
going to take another approach at the engine xD
but need to get interest in alot of parts before i think bout it more.
interested =D
Thinking of going k series stevo?
<.< maybe haha
If you decide to part, I'm probably interested in your headers and complete exhaust! You've had so much bad luck...
ah yeh cool, ive had other ppl interested in it too.
well headers and exhuast are going anyway. cause its either ks ereis or boosted b series soo yeh.
Hey guys, im thinking bout parting out the car fully.
maybe as full rolling shell first. think it may be time to move on, so any interest in parts let me know
Interested in everything!
dibs on traction bar, coils, all electrical shiat, =)
=)
Hey guys, ive decided to part out
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...y-da6-part-out....
sooo go nuts... lol
im going hydraulic with my engine swap, what motor mounts will i need to purchase and retain??? thanks
innovative mounts website, your chassis year and hydrolic mount kit
http://www.innovativemounts.com/Prod...ductCode=49350
or
http://www.innovativemounts.com/Prod...ductCode=49351
if u can retain ur front itll save u costs otherwise ull need this
http://www.innovativemounts.com/Prod...ductCode=19340
but from expierience the front seems to die the quickest, and soon as that dies, it tends to kill your others.
ok guys so i finally got all my suspension gear off the lounge room floor and installed on the teg. so far so good.
now im looking at getting a traction bar as i need to more caster and im still having some traction issues, also figure extra clearance will be good when it gets boosted at the end of the year.
so my question(s) are
1. what brands do you recommend?
2. how much of a difference do they make?
3. do i need to modify or replace any other components to fit one?
thanks in advance.
Hey, I bought explicit speed performance one
Awesome thing replaces front mount, and castor rods, so plenty of adjustment
Custom made any colour u want, perfect fit too no modding needed
I have a Full-Race on the DA9T. very solid and simple design with 2 mounting points- where the tow hook bolts to the side of the chassis rail and also where the stock crossmember fits to the underside of the chassis rail. Includes front mount for the DA9 which some others dont have. it is a simple bolt on affair although you do lose the tow hooks, you can still wrap a rope around that end of the bar if required. Very good quality but you do pay for it, I was lucky enough to get mine second hand but never fitted to a car.
They add a massive amount of room to the front of the bay and will make fitting a downpipe much easier, watch how low they hang under the car however as this can be an issue if you are really low with these bars. In terms of performance, it made a huge difference, car feels a lot more solid and sure on the turn in to a corner.
thanks guys. yea have been looking at the full race item and it seems like what im after... the reasoning behind their design makes sense... dont think height will be too much of an issue having seen the pics on their website.. dont really wanna drop that many dollar bills on one but my current castor issues make for a scary drive, and its gonna help later...
Any pics of yours online mooshie?
U can adjust castor on the stock bar
Not as simple then with a traction bar, u gotta change washers and stuff
Also describe wat ur feeling, I can't picture in my mind castor causing that much trouble
yea looked at that but you can only shim lca back i need to bring it forward. one side is negative and the other is almost neutral...
as for how it feels imagine a shopping trolley at high speed...
hmm, that sounds like when screwed up my toe in the car.....
tyres startin screechin goin straight and when u turned wheels felt rele loose
if ones in negative, meaning ur bushes have gone? try replacing them first maybe?
just compared to spending $500 on a traction bar :P
yea thought about it but traction bar will make life easier at turbo time.
Ive got a set of adjustable castor rods from my previous setup that I can sell you, it will allow a fair bit of castor adjustment. Im using a ktuned traction bar with heim joints, its noisy but solid
nah tis all good bud will go with traction bar me thinks...
anyway on another topic aftermarket headlights... are there any options in the country or is it usa all the way?
if so how well do they work over here, as in do they point close enough to the right spot?