Good luck finding Penrite ATF LV anywhere
And if you do, the cost would be pretty expensive lol
I wouldn't use MAxxlife in such a 'new' car
Good luck finding Penrite ATF LV anywhere
And if you do, the cost would be pretty expensive lol
I wouldn't use MAxxlife in such a 'new' car
Nulon FS only meets Honda 89, 96 and Z1 specs so it's equal to Penrite ATF FS http://www.penriteoil.com.au/product...d_products=336
used both, no real difference, just stuck with penrite based on preference
LV is in some stores but not many due to most cars using DW1 or similar specs are still under warranty so not much popularity yet
DW1 is a bit thinner
giving these guys a shot for Penrite LV
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/liver...4-l/1061030112
Why not? I've got it in my MY12. Feels no different to the factory fill stuff. As long as the oil used meets the required specs, then there should not be an issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasemas
Just did the 3 x 3 again. (11 months and 14,500kms on from the previous time.) Used Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic ATF again.
What came out on the 1st drop was reddish brown but the next 2 drops were bright red. No "swarf" on the magnetic drain plug which is a good sign. The changes are super smooth again.
I will do it again in 12 months time. The cost really is not all that over the hill and is certainly cheaper than a complete transmission replacement.
did you drive around using all of the gears between drops?Quote:
Originally Posted by Haanda
Honda recommend 60,000km or 36 months then 40,000 or 24 months so i just do 1 drop yearly (approx 18,000km). Cant bring myself to drop new fluid
A little strange they give the factory fill an extra year? is it to get it through warranty or to make money for the dealer out of warranty
Oh yes. About 10 Km round trip between each drop and refill, getting up to 80 km/h to ensure that all 5 gears came into play. Then I switched it into "S" mode and used the paddle shift to go through all gears. Also 2 x 100 m reverse gear sections.
My cars book specifies 120,000 kms for the 1st drop........And there is no mention of doing it again in the book....I take that to mean that it be done again at 240,000 kms. No way!!!! (New fluid is cheaper than a new gearbox.)
A very good friend of mine owns a cab (Falcon) and has being operating cabs for more than 20 years. The current Falcons have a sealed tranny and according to Ford, do not require any fluid changes for the life of the transmission.
Tranny's operated a such usually last around 250,000- 300,000 kms. Most experienced operators ignore that and get the fluid changed at 18 month intervals as well as fit an external aftermarket cooler. They find that they can get double the life from the tranny by doing this.
O.K.-- That's a Ford as opposed to a Honda, but the practice of frequent fluid changes is the secret to extending the life of any machinery requiring oil as a lubricant.
I got both an external cooler and frequent fluid changes and I change the filter. Going good so far.
Ps: Penrite just came out with a new full synthetic atf. The Low Viscosity atf that's DW1 compliant. Basically a thinner oil.
yeah, the LV http://www.penriteoil.com.au/product...d_products=709Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
been eyeing it for a while now but havent seen it recommended for any hondas yet, not even the new accord
[QUOTE=Fredoops;3988917]I got both an external cooler and frequent fluid changes and I change the filter. Going good so far.
I like the idea of an external trans cooler. Is their a Accord specific kit available, or did you do a "scratch build" using bits obtained from other sources?
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewRox22
They have said that their new ATF LV meets Honda DW-1 specs in their ATF Flyer.
The list of specs it meets are: ( Honda DW1 is no 10 on the list)
Product Specification
Aisin AW-1
BMW Part# 83 22 0 397 114
BMW Part# 83 22 0 397 859
BMW Part# 83 22 9 407 858
Ford MERCONŽ-LV (M2C938-A)
Ford M2C922-A1
Ford M2C924-A
GM DEXRONŽ-VI
Hyundai SP-IV
Honda DW-1
JASO 1A
JASO 2A-02
JWS 3324
Kia SP-IV
Mercedes MB 236.41
Mitsubishi SP-IV
Mitsubishi Dia Queen J2/J3
Nissan/Infiniti Matic S
Toyota WS
I am aware of that, it's just the lube guide and penrite still dont recommend it for our application.... the new accord recommends DW1 in the manual but penrite have yet to update it from ATF FSQuote:
Originally Posted by Haanda
Probably because Honda will require some sort of payment for giving their "tick" to the product.
(My Euro came from John Blair Honda in Prahan. They use Caltex Havoline ATF-J in their workshop for transmission fluid changes.
Simply because they can buy it in bulk, at a good price.)
No. Honda don't give tick to anyone actually (with one exception being the engine oil for the Acura RDX in the usa). It's completely in house unlike the GM dexos standards where it's pay to play.Quote:
Originally Posted by Haanda
The reason for it not in the lube guide is simple:
Lubeguide is a third party site that sells the service to oil makers . It takes time to update their systems. Being the penrite LV was released recently it'll probably be a while before the LV and their DSG/DCT fluid makes it onto lube guide.
Therefore if it says on the bottle.... it's all good.
[QUOTE=Haanda;3988928]There's no accord specific kit. It's just an universal kit I got. I run that in addition to the radiator "cooler" that the transmission is plugged into already. So there's 2 coolers in my systemQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
Can you supply a fluid flow direction diagram please?
Didn't need one.
Two hoses goes into the radiator I just wired it off one. The cooler I got doesn't have a flow direction so it didn't matter whether you add it to the in or return line.
O.K. I'll see if. I can find out which of the 2 hoses is supply and return, so that the fluid goes from the radiator to the external cooler and then returns to the transmission.
Hi there,
I am new at this forum as I bought an 05 Accord Euro about a month ago.
I found this forum very helpful as now I know that the service schedule for the AT of 120k km is not sufficient.
I obtained from this forum that a 3X3 change is what I need at reduced interval (not 120k km). It is necessary but realised that this is going to be expensive and time consuming for me. I am aware that a complete flush is not recommended by Honda as it might introduce air to the system.
May I get an opinion from you guys about a conservative flush method and see if this is ok. With this I would reduce the oil used and time spent changing the oil. This uses 2 people to do it.
Step:
1. Change the oil as normal (drop 3L and fill 3L via dip stick tube)
2. Undo hose to the radiator (passenger side) and position on a graduated oil pan (volume indicator)
3. The second person start the car (in park or cycling the transmission)
4. Oil will come out of the radiator hose and in about 5-10 seconds it will reach 2.5 L
5. Ask driver to stop the car
6. Reconnect hose and fill the dipstick tube until full (theoretically 2.5 L)
7. Run engine for a few minutes, check level and top up if necessary
This method is similar to this you tube video but done more conservatively so that air does not get into the system by removing only 2.5L. If the transmission contained 6.2 L, this method technically remove 5.5/6.2=85%.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQsVuUOK6Cg
What are your thoughts?
Edit: the website is this below, please ignore the top link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZAmcEf9LrY
Remember that air gets in every time the transmission dip stick is checked and it is through the dipstick tube that air will be vented, so not necessary to do the hose to radiator disconnection bit. If it was, then the factory would also make that the method and probably have some sort of an inbuilt drain system designed into it.
(Undoing a hose clamp and then carefully draining out a measured amount of oil is NOT the way Japanese engineers would approach such a task. :) )
3 x 3 will see a good % of the oil changed and doing the radiator connection hose bit, is effectively doing a 4 x 4. (The amount of oil dropped from the trans each "dump" is closer to 2.8 litres.)
The 3 x 3 drop is how a Honda Dealer would do it anyway. All the thread recommends is doing it a bit more often than Honda state in the manual. ( No need to try and re invent the wheel ;))
3x3 is what you do when you haven't replaced the oil in a long time (ie: those who followed the service book)Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin77
if you do changes very regularly then a 1x1 every service (or 2nd service if you don't do a lot of kay's) would be sufficient imo, so after your initial 3x3 + filter change, just do a 1x1 (simple drain/fill) every service (or 2nd service) or something would be sufficient.
Theres not really any need to do a 3x3 every 2nd service, thats too expansive, also you really dont need to use honda OEM fluid, most good quality full synthetic ATF are ATF-Z1 compatible now days, so thats like an instant 50% saving.
If you had to do this method would it not be better to fill the dipstick while it drains? that would reduce/prevent air from getting in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin77
Actually honda dealers only do a 1x1 @120k km, that was my experience anyway, they only do 3x3 when you complain about transmission problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by Haanda
Thanks for the feedback Fred and Handa. Maybe you are right. There is no need to reinvent the wheel.
I just wanted to think a way to make the ATF change more effectively (and also safely) as it is expensive and a hassle removing the plastic cover to do the ATF. Maybe it can be stretched to 40-50k using this technique.
I bought the car a month ago at 130k km and the ATF has not been changed. Its lucky that the transmission is still good (smooth) as the previous owner uses the car mainly highway driving and uses it gently (I dont think he ever engaged the vtec). I replaced the oil with redline D4 oil as redline was the oil I used on my previous car and it was good. I bought it for approx $85 per gallon (3.7 L), its expensive.
To me doing the flush is a little more risky but I am sure it is more effective than conducting multiple drain and refill as the drain and refill method mixes the old and new oil before the consecutive changes. The number 2.5 L I used is a number I used to ensure that no (significant) air get into the system (we have 3L inside the pan). This can be reduced to 2L being more conservative. Fred the reason for not filling the dipstick as the system is flushed is done so that full attention (reduce the risk) can be given to the volume of oil that has been removed to the drain pan and alert the driver to stop the engine.
Fred, can you please tell me if you notice some difference between Redline D4 and Valvoline maxlife ATF fluid?
I've noticed no difference between the two, then again I added an external ATF cooler half way thru my Redline D4 drain cycle, both stayed very clean and very smooth throughout it's 1 year life.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin77
Not that matters all that much, it seems that Maxlife had been discontinued in oz, cant find them in repco or supercheap, Autobarn sometimes have them but most of the time i cant see it on the shelf.
And with the current aussie dollar rate i cant justify the the cost of the Redline D4 anymore either.
So now I have 4 bottles of Nulon Multi-vehicle synthetic atf sitting in the garage, they'll be the next one for me to try.
I've used it, noticed nothing wrong or special with it- it costs a bit more than the penrite versionQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
I found simply changing the inline filter has extended the smoothness as well
Thank you Fred.
You mentioned you installed an atf cooler on your car and I am assuming this cooler is mounted in front of the A/C evaporator.
I have heard that the Euro A/C (similar to crv) often can give us grief from the heat it generated. This document/link below mentioned an increased A/C cycle due to evaporator under- sizing. Would an ATF cooler mounted in front of it makes it worse?
Should we change the A/C clutch as a preventative maintenance?
http://hondakarma.com/threads/cr-v-a...81/live?page=1
Yes I've noticed that.Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewRox22
Gotta say the penrite full syn atf pricing is really odd. At 40 bucks retail for 4 litre when the semi synthetic penrite atf cost upwards 35 bucks.
While the Valvoline Maxlife and Nulon Full Syn Atf are around 55.
Both cheaper than honda oem at 70 a bottle tho.
Yes it's mounted in front of the ac condenser.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin77
The one I added is not big. Only the size of an ipad. Can't imagine it doing that much.
Regarding changing ac clutch. That's no small job.
I cant comment on aircon performance I don't run R134a in my ac system anymore. I use hydrocarbon refrigerant instead which is twice as efficient there abouts so my ac system runs on less pressure and stress.
what are you seeing as odd? the price itself or the price difference?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
The price difference (or the lack thereof)
Until the 16th Jan, Super cheap is doing special on the Nulon synthetic ATF. Its $38.33 on the website.
A tad cheaper compared to their normal 20% sale.
Thats where i got mine. all 4 bottles of itQuote:
Originally Posted by Martin77
One other point that I forgot to mention. Remember that when doing a 3 x 3 change, you have to drive the car for a few kms, or at least start the engine when the car is on the hoist and operate the transmission through all gears to circulate the fluid (a mixture of, old and new) through the system.
This will also flush the new mix through the transmission cooler. So opening the system up between the transmission and the transmission cooler is not going to achieve any benefit, other than dropping out more of the mixed fluid. ;) Also, the transmission is not a sealed, pressured system and vents to atmosphere via the dipstick tube. There will be some air in there at all times.
As regards Valvoline Maxlife. It is still here in Oz. I used it in my 1st 3 x 3 change, just after I bought the car 11 months ago and have just used it for the 2nd 3 x 3. But rather than looking for 4 litre containers of the stuff at Auto Accessory Shops, I got my local garage, who use Valvoline products across the board, to do the changes (with me in attendance) when they did the last normal 10,000m km interval service. They stock it in bulk and use it in quite a few different makes of vehicle (I also use it in my SAAB's Auto Trans.)
They did not mind me taking the car off the hoist between fills and disappearing for 15 minutes to do the prerequisite drive arounds.
Now that I have done two lots of 3 x 3 changes, I am confident that pretty well all of the original factory initial fill fluid has been removed and I will also be doing as Freedops says, a single drop/refill annually.
Thanks Haanda,
I think whatever we do (flush or drain/refill) it is important to realise that we need to change the ATF regularly. More frequently than what Honda suggests (1 drain and refill at 120k km). The automatic transmission is a crucial component in a car and if that goes, its going to be expensive to repair and if the car is more than 10 years old it may not be worth repairing. The frequency will depend on the style of driving and what is important is sticking to the frequency more so than the method. According to this forum, if the car has been serviced according to the log book, an initial 3X3 followed by a simple drain/refill at each/second service is the gold standard.
It seems like the Valvoline Maxlife is very popular here.
It seems like what Fredoops has done is correct by tackling the core issue of the ATF problem, which is inadequate cooling to the ATF. He has installed an ATF cooler in front of the A/C condenser to assist with the cooling. If there is enough cooling, ATF should last a long time. This method is not for everyone as there is a potential issue in the reduction of A/C condenser efficiency if the cooler is placed infront of it. Fredoops has done a fix by using a more efficient refrigerant.
Certainly changing the fluid more frequently will definitely prolong the life of any mechanical equipment. My work background was in the Oil Industry and the company I worked for had a strict preventative maintenance policy of changing the oil every 3 months, on all mechanical equipment, irrespective of whether it was electric, internal combustion or steam driven, (yes, we used large, multi stage steam turbines! ;) ) Some equipment also had auto type radiator coolers and the coolant in those was changed annually. There was a good reason and it is a policy that has stuck with me!
I have mentioned that I also own a SAAB ( a 20 year old one at that) and that has both an auto transmission cooler and an engine oil cooler. The former is mounted under the radiator so that it does not interfere with the engine cooling. Mind you, the fact that there is a Turbo intercooler at the very front , followed by an airconditioner condenser then the engine radiator, may also have something to do with the location. Even the manual transmission SAAB Turbo's have a gearbox oil cooler.
One thing that both my mechanic and I noticed when doing the 3 x 3, was just how hot the fluid and the drain plug was when we went to drain the fluid after a run of only 10 kms. One could not hold the plug. That heat will be the main reason why the fluid goes off.
I have also had some input into Taxi operation since I retired from the Oil Industry and savvy taxi owners also install external transmission coolers on their cars, be it Ford, GM, Chrysler or Toyota. It does prolong the life of the transmission, often for the entire time the car is on the road in Taxi service. They also do frequent transmission oil changes irrespective of what the manufacturer specifies.
So yes, to sum up, more frequent oil changes, with a top quality synthetic oil ( make your own choice of brand. As long as it meets the manufacturers specs it will be fine)works well. Installing a trans cooler ( it doesn't have to be big. Lowering the fluid temperature by just a few degrees C makes a huge difference) will also help maximise the life of the transmission.
Happy :honda: ring :D
Thanks Haanda. Very useful information.
Some of our CL9s are aging a little (mine has) and probably need a replacement radiator soon.
Does anyone know of a better/performance radiator that could cool the automatic transmission fluid better than the stock radiator?
No, there isnt. it's just the oem design, the trans cooler i added is only the size of an iPad MiniQuote:
Originally Posted by Martin77
There are some AM manufacturers that use better grade alloys in their products than the OEM unit. Nissens and Fenix are 2 brands that come to mind (in both cases of those names, the end product comes from the same factory, but with a different name on the box.) But you will usually pay as much or more, than Honda OEM.
Great guide. Changed the fluid and filter on mine today. Found it easiest to remove the airbox to get at the filter. :)
Hey Fredoops this thread is thoroughly informative and helpful on so many levels.
Anyway I'm planning to change my ATF this weekend.
My car's gone 105000kms without having 1 ATF change (bought it last month) & after reading this thread I'll be certain to drain the ATF of 3 quartz/2.8L for each of the next 3 services (105000km, 110000km & 115000km).
I have one question to ask..
From your experience do you recommend I buy the:
- Redline Synth D4 from performancelub @ $23 per quartz ($69 total)
- Penrite LV @ $49 for 4L
http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Produ...4-Litre/396357
- Nulon 100% Synthetic Multi-Vehicle *edit $44 for 4L*
http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Produ...4-Litre/164776
Mind you it would be cheaper as well as more convenient for me to go to supercheap as its closer (for the penrite/nulon) as compared to driving to greensborough/pay for postage @ performancelub (redline)
Welcome to ozhonda CL9_euro.
In regards to the service interval, with good synthetic oil, this car can go to 10,000 km service interval (normal driving). It would be a waste of money and time to doing it every 5,000 km. When you changed the atf once at 105,000 km, the second and third doesn't become as urgent (10000 is OK compared to 5000 km). This would be more cost and time effective.
Or you could do the gold standard which is the 3x drain and refill at 105,000 km.
Cheers Martin. Looks like ill do the intervals at every 10000kms.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin77
Have you tried all the 3 oils i mentioned above?
- Redline D4
- PenriteLV
- Nulon 100% Synthetic Multi-Vehicle
Which one do you recommend?
I used redline d4.
Forget it. It's no better than penrite or nulon for normal driving. Not worth the money IMO.
Nulon or Penrite is fine.
Btw you don't HAVE to use the more expensive penrite atf LV for a cl9. The normal syn multi atf is ok as welll
Fredoops is probably right. He has alot more experience with the CL9.
I am using redline D4 and it is expensive. I have not tried nulon or penrite.
When I read reviews about redline oil, because of its group 5 base stock, it can tolerate higher temperature (oxidation). I do not know if this is the case with their atf fluid.
better base stocks last longer but if you are going to start changing it more regularly, it's not as much of a big deal IMOQuote:
Originally Posted by Martin77
Honda recommends 60,000km/36 months they should do 3 drains 3 fills with some driving between to get most of the old oil out...
I'd personally do 2 drains minimum if yours hasn't been done for 100,000km
Been doing mine yearly since I got it but only as a single drain and fill of 3-4L... my car did 120,000km until it's first change and by then it was a bit jerky with shifting, despite honda servicing it, they never told the previous owners to change the oil
I am sure Hondas recommended atf change is 120000 km (1x drain and refill), which is too long.
I would agree with AndrewRox22, if there are transmission issues/symptoms, a 2x drain and refil (even 3) should be done straight away.
There is also an inline atf filter that should be changed regularly.
Bingo. If you're doing once a year fluid changes then it doesn't matter as much the base oil. Uless you go onracetracks or somethingQuote:
Originally Posted by AndrewRox22
I ended up buying PENRITE LV for ATF & PENRITE 10TENTHS PREMIUM 0 0W-40 for the engine oil.
The gunk on the magnet of the bolt looks like it needed a a ATF change after not having one since new.
I will do the 2nd drain in 20,000km time from now
Attachment 29509
Attachment 29510
Please let us know how the car goes.
I am sensing that you really want to look after your car with good oil selection but still being sensible and practical. Thanks for the photos.
If I'm you I'd do a second drain asap.Quote:
Originally Posted by CL9_euro
Unless you just did a 3x3
Given the amount of gunk on the magnet. Change the filter too
Yeh thanks mate, really want to look after this car hence the penrite bottles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin77
Just took it for a drive and the gear changes are smoother, espesh from 1st to 2nd where I sense the massive difference.
Cheers fredoops. Will most likely do the 2nd drain next weekend due to shortage of time today as I have plans.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
Yep bought the transmission filter yesterday from essendon honda $55.
That was a c*nt to change lol. Lucky im a clean guy no oil/fluid drips at all :)
ThisQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
Regular service intervals don't need expensive fluid
The LV is DW1 grade so much thinner, would make a huge difference, gotta give it a try sometime when it's on specialQuote:
Originally Posted by CL9_euro
I do a sneaky and take off only 1 side of the plastic guard and slip my catch pan in there haha
would have been it's first change because honda don't have the item on the service schedule until 120,000km/6 years for the factory fill
i agree with a minimum of a second drop, 10L+ capacity, how much did you get out?
Got out exactly 2.8L.Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewRox22
I don't know if you can see it here:
:thumbsup:
Attachment 29514
BMW say their ATF is fill for life.Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewRox22
does that sound right to you?
they also tell you that you don't need dipsticks hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
Nothing is ever 'for life' unless it's the life of their warranty
I think BMW is right. Its for the life of the transmission, which is not very long if you don't change the oil. :-)
Was able to get motul atf VI cheaper than honda oem.
They claim compatibility with z1 and dw1 so will give that a go next time. Anyone used motul in their auto?
Can you please tell us where you got the motul atf from and how much were they?
Great post!
My Honda Legend KB1 (J35a engine) has recently done around 170k and has followed all the service schedules. The ATF was changed during the 120k service. Just checked the fluid, and the colour seemed to be brown (non-black and doesn't smell burnt). Can someone please give me some guidance as to what's the best way to approach this? I'm mindful that there could be some transmission damage and if I put in new fluid it might raise the sediments and therefore increasing the risk of damaging the transmission?
Also what ATF should I get? Would any of the ATF-DW1 equivalent on the front page do the job?
Thanks!
change it, 50,000km is nothing to worry about but it should be a red. is there a reason you think there would be problems with changing it or why you think there would be sediment?Quote:
Originally Posted by moomoocow
check what your manual recommends but it should be compatible with the same fluids in the first post, DW1 is required for all new Honda trans coming out of the factory now but all older ones are able to take Z1 which is a bit thicker and cheaper.... DW1 is supposed to be backwards compatible though
http://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/
3 drops and 3 fill method with some driving in between will change most of the oil in there otherwise others have offered suggestions on what they do
Change fluid.then change again after 5k and again after 10k from initial service.Quote:
Originally Posted by moomoocow
Will be new again
Ebay . I had a voucher too. I seen they are around $25 a litre tho.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin77
Will try and post how i go :)
Not much info on motul stuff.
$25 a liter? Jesus....Quote:
Originally Posted by 08r3308
hi since brand new my auto accord euro would jerk and make a loud noise when shifted to R from P only when parked up hill.
is this normal?
Yeah. That's normal.
I think my transmission is stuffed. works but sounds like a whinning b#@$h. Anyone had this before?
video? when does it appear? does it do it in park, Reverse, neutral? Does it shift ok? no info so we can't really say anythingQuote:
Originally Posted by JulianYJK
make sure it isn't your powersteering, that can get loud as it dies
hi andrewrox22
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDp-fhl3dvw - exactly similar to this.
-it happens during acceleration.
-Its an auto transmission
-when I fang the car, the engine drowns the whine
- gear engages just fine. a lot of city driving recently.
- car has done 160k km
how do you know If your power steering has died? what symptoms can I expect from it?
If its the power steering, the whine will be noticeable during revving in park or neutral.
If it is the transmission, you should do oil and filter change and hope it improves.
I think there was a thread here sometime last year with this same issue, cant find it at the moment but i don't think it's the transmission...
nevertheless, you should still do some changes on it to see if it affects it at all... maybe make another thread and see if anyone knows
could be a blown alternator too
What's the explanation behind it, how come other cars don't do that?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
It's called a parking pawl. All auto transmissions have it
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parking_pawl
It's a metal pin that locks transmission in place.
Fredoops is right.
The transmission (or pin in the transmission) doesn't like being stressed (ie, to move in one particular direction if the car has the tendency to move in another direction (in a slope)).
To reduce this (when changing direction on a slope) you could use the park brake or your foot brake (and accelerate a little) when you travel the opposite direction of where the car wants to roll.
If you park you car on a slope it is a good idea to let the park brake take the rolling tension instead of the transmission. So you stop, pull the park brake, let the foot brake go for a milli second (car will roll a little to the direction of the slope) and put in park on your transmission.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin77
Brought it to Honda specialist. He said it was the bearings in the transmission. I did a transmission flush. It was black and dirty. Anyways, he said if my gearbox fails in future, Hw can fit A reconditioned one for 1.7k.
I'll live with the whiny noise for now. Thanks guys
You should also replace the transmission filter if the oil is dirty.
Replacing the filter might improve oil flow and this may help with the noise issue.
You'll need to remove the air filter box to gain access to the transmission in line filter.
It is recommended here to do drain and refill of the transmission fluid a couple of times if it is dirty (oxidised from heat) as one change only remove half of the oil.
Great thread, thank you so much.
My '06 Euro is in the process of having it's gearbox flushed - drained 3L on the weekend and filled, will do again when I receive my Magnefine filter.
Btw I used Liqui Moly Top Tex ATF 1200 (fully synthetic):
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/p...d/en_3680.html
Excellent.
How dark is the fluid coming out?
Pretty brown with plenty of bits of metal coming out. Particularly when compared to the fresh red ATF that went in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
bits of metal?!?!...... how big are we talking? could be an issue if we are talking big.....Quote:
Originally Posted by ribze1
the magnet on the plug should have caught all of the small bits/ filings which are normal
Not that big, I could see it as the fluid gushed out. The magnet did it's job too, plenty of metal filings on it,Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewRox22
My mate (mechanic) didn't have any concerns.