so...Quote:
Originally Posted by Riced_Civic
who tunes ur car and how much power u pushing out???
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so...Quote:
Originally Posted by Riced_Civic
who tunes ur car and how much power u pushing out???
Haven't posted in a while - hit 80,000kms, washed and swissvaxed car + cleaned engine bay
Installed my ctr lips came alone quite good
http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/xX...tml?sort=3&o=0
pics? links broken
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/...Xx/image-2.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by iceey
Had a fun 3 days rewiring / neating engine loom + central locking alarm ki
Never want to see another wire again hahaht
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...14154992_n.jpg
Not an update as such but got more AMMO stuff.. lol #imso****ingbroke
changed me guard so no more dented guard action
Does anyone know if the stock hatch muffler will fit straight on if the cars fitted with a whiteline rear swaybar which also has the back plate?
I hope your clay baring that surface.. ..before you work..Quote:
Originally Posted by MYEK9
You are doing a great job ! , How Ever, im finding it almost near impossible to believe that you are removing swirls and scratches by hand. Please dont be offended im just amazed, also you should use a SUNLIGHT when cutting and buffing becasue to the eye you will never see it.. Products like meguiars are almost like fillers, it gives the look that there gone but really there not. after a couple of washes your back to wear you started.
Biggest offender of this is AUTO GLYM Super Resin Polish.
Also meguiars products are not the cream of the crop.. you can buy much much better at almost tripple the cost, but like you said you get what u pay for..
If you have never used a rotary before then maby as mentioned above use a random orbital buffer less chance of burning through, i use a paint gauge when cutting and buffing, worth the money..
Please don't take this the wrong way, u are doing a great job, but i have buffed ALOT of cars, and there is alot that goes into making a show car finish.. It took me 30 hours to cutt and rotary buff my car only, not including the time i took to wash it 3 times during that process..
How ever i can tell the diffence and it looks good :)
I'm with this guy. Ever since I heard about that kenny dude getting a "cut and polish" from you, and to hear you were just claying and using a glaze via hand. You may be hiding a minute number of swirls. But definitely not a cut and polish. But if the paint is actually already in good condition, and you're just decontaminating it and chucking on some nuba wax for some short term protection. Good on ya.Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexK
Hence why I also asked for direct light into lens (via panel) or shots in sunlight. But if the clients are happy, good job!
I do recommend starting with a DA/RO like AlexK said (have an orbital path, very hard to heat up the paint, therefore very good for newbies so you dont burn through the paint). Get some good pads (festool/lakecountry ect), good compounds like Merzena (personal favourite). Read some guides on the net (or attend a hands on day with one of our traders, Car Care Products) and get started!
Finish of with some good quality waxes/sealants to protect your work.
edit. If you're not claying, you should punch yourself in the balls, you are effectively ruining people's paint by dragging along dirt and marring the paint.
But if you are, good on ya. I suggest some ClayMagic :]]
flame warrrrrrr
Mateeeee. You dont belong here.Quote:
Originally Posted by SilviaS15
Quote:
Originally Posted by PHO
Lol at that rawrr haha, i see u have the same process as my swelf but i gotQuote:
Originally Posted by CivicEGSI
Dodo clay, ahh the ball breaking stage of menzerna 500.......
You sir, are correct in every sentance.
And its not a war just contructive fees back
Gave it a quick wash and topped up my fluids yesterday... then this morning it was raining!
http://imageshack.us/a/img32/6213/im...0975486739.jpg
Ive been meaning to take my ek to the paint shop.
Im guna get there.......
Got my adjustable springs in today (on a uni budget cant afford coilovers :[ ... ) and got my grille in to replace the diy one that I did about a year back, looked alright but decided to get a nicer looking one, thing didnt want to fit on so ill get the grinder out tomorrow and work it out! Also got to get that disgusting scratch buffed out of the bumper, too many things to do -.-
http://i34.tinypic.com/6oifxg.jpg
I could say the same, mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by S14RULES
Nice car, very shinyQuote:
Originally Posted by edmondvincent
Fitted a new skunk 2 intake manifold, S90 throttle body, new hondata S300 and works engineering FPR and fuel rail to my B20....
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2a3e9021.jpg
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1d1d2a8b.jpg
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/...ps392de476.jpg
Clean engine bay dude!
That's a nice bay bro.
You take pride and do your own thing.
It's easy to put a engine together harder to keep it like this
Dude I got a very good buffer with meguiars soft buff pads , I use the buffer always but use hand also In hard to reach places, kenny car paint was not in good condition at all , we used the buffer on 90% of the cars with the scratchx also .. My results are 100% doing this , since I have done over 25-30 customer cars range from prestige to jap .. Clay bar most of the time is not needed due to the special design of pad I use which also removes most of the grime while cutting ,Quote:
Originally Posted by PHO
And I never clay'd Kenny car also , so do not know where you heard that from
This is the latest edition of the c and p , " PHO"
Before and after shots mate?Quote:
Originally Posted by MYEK9
http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC_1339.jpg
Got my hands on an OEM access rear lip! More to come
Heard the access lip isnt a direct fit for them faceift rear bars because of that kink at the bottom, let me know how it fits!
^will do! seen them work on facelift rear bars tho
+1, With a SUNLIGHT ! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by ctx
+1 "A good buffer and a meguiars soft pad". Need more info than that man. What pad? Polishing pad? Cutting pad? Microfibre? Wool? Methods? How long are you spending on each panel? Before & After shots in sunlight or with a sungun would prove your results.Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexK
got to get them off my camera got a few before and afters, and in direct sunlight also.. i find that ken 7'' wool pad detiorates to quickly , so ive switched to the Meguiars 2.0 soft buff burgandy pad, works very well , smooth and does not affect the paint (burn), i also use the meguiars 2.0 7'' soft buff polisher pad ( yellow ) when polishing and the black colour basic pad when waxing, all up roughly around 2:30 -3hrs a car depending on condition even longer.
also a good product is that tech wax 2.0 , expensive as fk but works very well . im looking for a good trim cleaner though to brighten up the black trims around the car ( door frame , roof lining ? you know any
Autoglym trim restorer, forever black, etc. just plastic/vinyl restores do well.Quote:
Originally Posted by MYEK9
Seems like you've got a good setup, although I prefer hand waxing/sealing. How often do you find yourself wet sanding?
introducing
***Official how did you buff your EK today***
Do u even buff johnny tran?Quote:
Originally Posted by CivicEGSI
u wot m8Quote:
Originally Posted by S14rules
So my ek goes to get its front bar repainted on tuesday
Installed my buddy club n+ coilovers today. Anyway, I have a question for you guys. With the rear coilovers, where the shock bolts to the lower control arm...I assume I need a nut right? At the moment I just hammered the bolt through. On the oem shocks, there is a nut but it seems to be welded to the shock fork - lol? I didn't get any nuts with this suspension (bought 2nd hand). I know sounds like a dumb question, but just wanted to be sure. Thanks.
Nek minnit ridin on rails
yes you do need a nut.....Quote:
Originally Posted by baethos
please use a nut or you will die lol
haha ok. anyway, can someone please tell me what sized nut to get? an M10 or 12mm nut does not fit. The M10 nut screws on for about 5mm, then gets stuck. The 12mm nut is too big. What sized nut and where can I find it? Thanks!
12x1.5 is the size. And where can you find it? Almost anywhere? ebay?
^ errr really? I have M12x1.5 lug nuts for my wheels. Just checked and these nuts are too big for the bolts (that joins lca to shock).
Anyway, I found this link to buy bolts + nuts.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-HONDA-RE...item2ec77f1e84
Another question. I am installing an ASR subframe brace and beaks bar. Does anyone know the specific bolt that I need to secure the beaks bar, asr subframe bar and lca together?
Thanks
Are these the correct bolts for the subframe brace and beaks bar?
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=219222
10x1.25 with class 10.9?
oh wait i thought you were talking about lug nut for wheel lol. My bad. Not sure on them
Asr comes with bolts pretty sure. Also why you want beaks bar? Do you like buying parts that only serve a purpose of getting ruined from scrape? Trying to build a hardparker? IMO most pointless thing out.
F7 yeeeeeeeeQuote:
Originally Posted by CivicEGSI
lol. I mod the car the way I like it. Don't care what others think. Just looking for some answers...
you can keep beaks bar in car for hit criminal insteadQuote:
Originally Posted by baethos
http://i.imgur.com/scC3fkv.jpg
good idea. i think i'll buy a 2nd one for that.
noQuote:
Originally Posted by baethos
use the one you already have. because it is useless on your car
why dont you just bring that bolt to the local auto shop and buy the right bolt for it? make sure its hi tensile
Maybe you should buy a third one to beat off all the sluts that your car will attract cause it looks so badass with that beaks bar and all of your sw@g xD xD xDQuote:
Originally Posted by baethos
haha. beaks bars seem to pinch on a lot of ppl's nerves. love it! hahaha
lol beaks bars are ok if your cars stanced haha. I'm trying to get rid of mine, scraping my driveway everytime because its hellah steep.
no, the end of your rear appear to be in painQuote:
Originally Posted by baethos
Like a sir.Quote:
Originally Posted by ctx
u seem mad broQuote:
Originally Posted by ctx
you seem unhappy people think beaks bar is a joke mod to put on honda carQuote:
Originally Posted by baethos
did u make sure to buy a red one for more racing style?
nope. i'm used to it. you must be a function > form guy I'm guessing?
whats wrong with a beaks bar, i did 1:25 at wakefield with out a beaks bar. added it on got 1:15.
the form is in the functionQuote:
Originally Posted by baethos
but the function is in the formQuote:
Originally Posted by ctx
i dont see the function in 165 tyre on 8" wheelQuote:
Originally Posted by viinnh
Fuel economyQuote:
Originally Posted by ctx
Leaded fuel replacement brahQuote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
makes the form of the wheel functionQuote:
Originally Posted by ctx
srs? **** i should get one on asap!Quote:
Originally Posted by viinnh
it must be the aircraft grade aluminium shaving seconds off laptimesQuote:
Originally Posted by Tosies
^ For ctx haha...finally got the right bolts and beaks bar is on!
Attachment 24665
Buys an ASR subframe reinforcement. Doesn't even have rear sway bar. GG.
what are you using asr subframe reinforcement for when no swaybar to reinforce? perhaps reinforcing Honda boy racer stereotype instead?Quote:
Originally Posted by baethos
You just went full retard.Quote:
Originally Posted by baethos
Agreed.Quote:
Originally Posted by dr1ftaX
is that the replica one tiksie selling?Quote:
Originally Posted by baethos