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Heeltoe.com does it cheaper I'm pretty sure. Thats where I got mine from but have a look at their site I cant remember the price off the top of my head.
Thats what it looks and sounds like. Disregard the retarded American phaggot filming it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HDsylgQDRE
oh wow. thanks for that... lol a bloody video. champion.
looks pretty good.
If your planning on getting the RBC I'm not sure if the K&N typoon will bolt up to the RBC manifold.Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
As you can see here in this picture below the K&N Typhoon CAI outlet is angled downwards to be a straight bolt-on with the stock RBB manifold. If you compare the inlet positioning of the two manifolds it looks like the K&N CAI wont be a straight bolt-on to the RBC.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a37...f/IMGP0559.jpg
http://i989.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/66a7a8c8.jpg
hmmmm interesting. cheers for that. another thing to work out.
thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by axispower
Amazon is the cheapest if you consider shipping.
Heeltoe shipping charges are a joke most of the time
^yeah ive noticed that.
Valve springs unnecessary unless you're going to raise you're redline [Necessary to bring out the full potential of cams beyond the least aggressive ones] or operating @ high rpm majority of the time [Racing conditions].Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
So which cams? Are you ready to sacrifice and shift your power/torque band some/lots? NA tuning peak power and torque increases usually comes at a price [Much larger than Force Induction]. If you keep the same displacement, dropping in aggressive cams will yield you better peak performance but you sacrifice low-mid range, you usually have to raise the redline for cams beyond the mild ones thus more stress on your engine and that's when parts need to start changing eg valvetrain and depending on your bottom end design, conrods usually have to change too. Idle becomes a factor too as the idle needs to be raised to compensate, lumpy idle isn't all its cracked up to be if you've not experienced a full worked engine especially with ITBs [Honda orientation usually away from driver... My Toyota was aimed square at me... Loud is an understatement]...
The argument then is are mild cams worth it? For the majority of people [The ones that are power hungry and aren't satisfied easily] the answer is no, after all the work you put in, the gains [Usually they read off only peak which isn't the best way to read the improvement of mild cams] aren't substantial enough to feel therefore disappointed they didn't go "bigger". Mild cams in general are there to improve the overall car restricting the engine from the factory cam's limitations. Peak gains aren't its focus.
dreadangel thanks for that. makes sense perfectly.
well the rbc intake manifold has a different angle output that the stock cl9 one. so im not going to have to wait untill the intake manifold and throttle body go on. after that ill have to look at purchasing an intake to suit.
once all this is done the flash pro with the tsx ecu sounds good.
the only thing im questioning is it was stated earlier, the ecu needs to be suited to the cars immobilizer.
on so say i purchase the ecu and hondata (and the adapter cable) once i unplug the stock ecu and the plug in the new one, am i able to start the car and drive to a honda dealer? lol this is a dumb question, but as i said i have no experience with ecu's etc.
If the car does not start, what am i meant to do?
and imo - honda are absolute clown shoes - what do i say to make them understand what i need them to do...
thanks again guys.
Ditto that. Walked in to ask them about the modulo/OEM lip kit for the CL9. Received a bertface.jpg followed by a perplexed question; "so yu wonn body kit?"Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
go do some research on k20a.org.
Quote:
Originally Posted by philipminge
Cuzz, I'll tell you what I did:
-Install the CAN adapter(MUST DO PRIOR GOING TO HONDA OR THE 06 TSX ECU WONT PROGRAM TO YOUR CAR!!)
-Call honda to book an ECU swap, just tell them you want to swap to a TSX ECU, maybe they'll understand, guy I spoke to did as he had done aftermarket ecu swaps with an EK4.
-Bring laptop and flashpro(had to wait 2 hours for my ecu swap, so having your laptop is advantageous, 2 hours wait... so bs -.-')
-after you get car back load up a flashpro calibration and enjoy :D
**Dont DIY swap the ECU because it the car wont start, trust bro. Just give the ECU to the mechanic at Honda**
**I got my ecu swap at narrewarren Honda charged me $160, essendon honda qouted $250 lmao**
**Note: the CAN adapter installation guide that comes with the Flashpro and the one that is listed on the Hondata website is incorrect for our Aus spec Euro's, a member on ozhonda called Jhim show me how to do it, his a top bloke. If you have Facebook, join AUSEURO, as Jhim is actively on there.
that reminded me to get a Honda immobilizer recoder.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy
cheers