Cammed Motors Specs + DYNO Graph Mandatory

Adrian.

My H22A4 almost hits 101 with very mild mods. K24 above did 10kw more. Any idea?
It was humid and rain sprinkled quite a bit that day. Would that have made a difference?

Engine - H22A4
Displacement - 2.2
Bore - stock
Stroke - stock
CR - stock
Camshaft - stock
VTEC X-Over - 4200
Gearbox - stock
I/H/E - K&N Panel filter, removed intake resonator, stock header, hi flow cat, Tanabe Medalion Touring catback.
ECU - Apexi AFC Neo

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/DSC01697.jpg
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/DSC01696.jpg

Isn't 100kw for a H22A kind of weak? No offence intended. But isn't is about 150kw at the fly? Though you would expect something like 120 +/- atw?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by migoreng

Adrian.

My H22A4 almost hits 101 with very mild mods. K24 above did 10kw more. Any idea?
It was humid and rain sprinkled quite a bit that day. Would that have made a difference?

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K24's tend to make more power than H22A's without even trying.
Your car was run @ 48% humidity (per weather staition data) which would have given a slight positive correction but that aside, you're not camparing apples & apples. 2.2L vs 2.4L & Vtec vs iVtec etc

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dougie_504

Isn't 100kw for a H22A kind of weak? No offence intended. But isn't is about 150kw at the fly? Though you would expect something like 120 +/- atw?

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100kw is pretty normal for an H22A. In stock trim or near stock (I/H/E) they're really not particularly powerful or impressive.
Moreover, to be honest, I've never seen one in my life that made me go - Wow!
Seen plenty than made me so oh... oh dear... (Even some built ones) Never wow! though.
So though they have a mythical rep, in reality, they are kinda weak.

Branden h2b type S motor is making just a little over 150kw with simple bolt-ons. A normal h22a with bolt-on's made close to 135kw. I wouldn't say they are weak motor.

Built h22a? Cant really comment, but the yanks seem to have great success with them. I guess if built right with the right parts, it can be a killer motor.

only 100kw and 110kw for h22a and k24? son i am disappoint

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Benson

Branden h2b type S motor is making just a little over 150kw with simple bolt-ons. A normal h22a with bolt-on's made close to 135kw. I wouldn't say they are weak motor.
Built h22a? Cant really comment, but the yanks seem to have great success with them. I guess if built right with the right parts, it can be a killer motor.

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Actually, in standard form I would say they are quite pissweak.
It's no secret in standard or near standard form for the capacity, they are a feeble engine.
I agree if built right, yes, they do have considerable potential & fair enough if your mates one has grunt, most don't.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

only 100kw and 110kw for h22a and k24? son i am disappoint

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LOL, no that'd come after you purchased one based on the online myths of high output.

Well yes, if you talk about completely standard form (no bolt-ons), most motor do only make around 100kw's. Once you open them up with the right bolt-ons with the right tune, they can make 30% more power

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TODA AU

K24's tend to make more power than H22A's without even trying.
Your car was run @ 48% humidity (per weather staition data) which would have given a slight positive correction but that aside, you're not camparing apples & apples. 2.2L vs 2.4L & Vtec vs iVtec etc

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Thanks Adian...So is there an ideal humidity %? Because of the positive correction (more fuel added?) on that day, are you saying If I run my car on a better day the dyno should show more power? And my AFR graph should be closer to 13?

Can you tell me the difference between my old dyno graph from 2 years ago and my current one? The day wasn't too warm. I say about 5-6 degrees more than when I visiited your work shop 2 months ago.
I ran 106.5KW and my car was 100% stock. In case you people are interested here's a list of Preludes (look at the Corolla Sportivos. They have 141kw? at the fly vs 143kw? for h22a4).

Any comments?
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f.../dyno/dyno.jpg

Got the list from Ozmazda forum.
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...Day-Result.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dougie_504

Isn't 100kw for a H22A kind of weak? No offence intended. But isn't is about 150kw at the fly? Though you would expect something like 120 +/- atw?

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Yes I was expecting 110kw after tune but maybe the dyno was reading low for some reason.
H22A4 has 143kw at the fly. Apparently 99+ H22Z engineshave 147 because of a slight header modification?
The car still pulls strong. 0-100kph in 8 seconds flat without trying hard (mid 7s possible if I can actually do a good launch).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by migoreng

Thanks Adian...So is there an ideal humidity %? Because of the positive correction (more fuel added?) on that day, are you saying If I run my car on a better day the dyno should show more power? And my AFR graph should be closer to 13?

Can you tell me the difference between my old dyno graph from 2 years ago and my current one? The day wasn't too warm. I say about 5-6 degrees more than when I visiited your work shop 2 months ago.
I ran 106.5KW and my car was 100% stock. In case you people are interested here's a list of Preludes (look at the Corolla Sportivos. They have 141kw? at the fly vs 143kw? for h22a4).

Any comments?


Got the list from Ozmazda forum.

Yes I was expecting 110kw after tune but maybe the dyno was reading low for some reason.
H22A4 has 143kw at the fly. Apparently 99+ H22Z engineshave 147 because of a slight header modification?
The car still pulls strong. 0-100kph in 8 seconds flat without trying hard (mid 7s possible if I can actually do a good launch).

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The correction factor is an SAE corretion to bring the power output value back to a standard day.
What you got is what you got, the dyno is just a tool used for tuning to see that you're moving forward. Some read higher than others but are generally ball park similar as are your runs. Though you may well have had 106kw @ SAS, but one our dyno your car pulled around 94kw before the tune. After tuning you got 100kw & that's about right. Re the correction factor: This may allow you to show a higher reading on the dyno & give to a happy reading but the car won't actually make any more power. What it's got is what it's got.
It also won't affect your AFR's. You can see from your previous sheet to your current one that the AFR's before tuning are the same regardless of output.
As you can see from the dyno day results, your car is putting down the average power for a H22A. Some are better, some are worse. Had the dyno day been held on our dyno, chances are the outputs would be 10kw less (based on your results). Numbers aside, the car is going better now & has 5~6kw more in the peak power & around 10kw @ 5000rpm. this will translate into faster smoother driving. Whether 1 dyno reads higher or not doesn't really matter but the trends are the same.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TODA AU

As you can see from the dyno day results, your car is putting down the average power for a H22A. Some are better, some are worse. Had the dyno day been held on our dyno, chances are the outputs would be 10kw less (based on your results). Numbers aside, the car is going better now & has 5~6kw more in the peak power & around 10kw @ 5000rpm. this will translate into faster smoother driving. Whether 1 dyno reads higher or not doesn't really matter but the trends are the same.

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Thanks for the explanation!

When I ran the 106 at SAS I did not have any I/H/E mods. So I ran ~94kw before tune on your dyno but I had a K&N panel filter, hi flow cat and catback exhaust. What if my engine was still stock? Would I have ran a few kw less, say 90kw atw?

So what you're saying, if I went back to SAS then I would most likely run ~115kw atw?

Do I/H/E mods generally make a difference on Honda engines or is a tune required to gain power? I know JDMYard or something claims ~5kw gain in the top end from an Injen CAI alone.

Anyway, i'm not too fussed about the numbers....thanks for the tune Adrian. Very quick/efficient and professional :D My car definately pulls harder after 3000rpm...

If there is a dyno day somewhere else in the future I may take my car for a run to see if there is a difference.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by migoreng

Thanks for the explanation!

When I ran the 106 at SAS I did not have any I/H/E mods. So I ran ~94kw before tune on your dyno but I had a K&N panel filter, hi flow cat and catback exhaust. What if my engine was still stock? Would I have ran a few kw less, say 90kw atw?

Do I/H/E mods generally make a difference on Honda engines or is a tune required to gain power? I know JDMYard or something claims ~5kw gain in the top end from an Injen CAI alone.

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Generally you will see a gain with I/H/E without tuning (depending on the quality of the parts) & a further 5kw top end & 10kw-ish in the mid range as yours did.
So yes, yours would likley have put down 90ish in standard form on our dyno.
& Injen's do offer a gain over the std intake off the bat without tuning.

i just tune ek b18c7 with mugen intake, toda header,adjustable fuel reg, 2.5in cat and 2.5 exh. ecu is s300 and i only got 107kw. is there something wrong with my engine. got the compersion test its ok 250. can someone give me advice. thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mooks145

i just tune ek b18c7 with mugen intake, toda header,adjustable feul reg, 2.5in cat and 2.5 exh. ecu is s300 and i only got 107kw. is there something wrong with my engine. got the compersion test its ok 250. can someone give me advice. thanks

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My B18C7 pulls 108.5kw with intake, Bisi headers, exhaust and Neptune Ecu on a mainline dyno too!

that is fine and nothing to turn your nose at, plus as adrian said it's all in how it drives!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markoJEK1

Engine - B18C
Displacement - 1.8
Bore - stock
Stroke - stock
CR - stock w/ EK9 N1 crank pulley
Camshaft - stock
VTEC X-Over - 5200
Gearbox - 4.4 FD ITR S80 stock w/ TODA lightened flywheel
I/H/E - Injen CAI, TODA hears, Custom 2.5' Stainless Steel straight pipe with xforce resonator (no muffler)
ECU - Hondata S300

Adrians' work.
http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/3...toda1327kw.jpg

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So smooth!!

the bel garage dyno likes to read a bit low. talk to yonas about the specifics of it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mooks145

i just tune ek b18c7 with mugen intake, toda header,adjustable fuel reg, 2.5in cat and 2.5 exh. ecu is s300 and i only got 107kw. is there something wrong with my engine. got the compersion test its ok 250. can someone give me advice. thanks

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hey guys i got about 3000 or 4000 dollars max to spend on my engine wat would you guy reconmend do with it. that all i'll spend on the engine.thanks

what do you want out of it?

i don't want a turbo. its a street car maybe take to track later on.

goals? I got some itb's for b series if you're up for that :p

can i keep the air con charlie said have to get rid of it.wat would you do with that money.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mooks145

can i keep the air con charlie said have to get rid of it.wat would you do with that money.

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See if you can get some head work done. Cam shafts, adjustable gears, valvetrain, port job.

Timmy, I think you should also look intoa better set of headers. They say the jdm dc5r headers are only slightly better than the audm, so that could look like whats also restricting some power mate! btw, PM me where u got ur BBK from? a mate is enquiring!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Timmy_B

This thread has been dead for some time....
Thought i would make my contribution, Hate it or Love it.....
A more realistic Dyno figure this time round.

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Looks like you got what was expected & it sound's like you're happy.
No doubt it drives a lot better too as the output is nice & smooth... :thumbsup:
But am I the only one who can see the forest for the trees?
Before you all jump on the "oh, you're a hater band wagon" I do have a point.
To to compare apples & apples (so to speak) you need to have the runs done with the same settings as the other's. Hence why dyno dynamics have shootout modes for just such a purpose.
(Particularly with eddie current dyno's)
Anyway, if you have a look at the bottom of your dyno sheet, you can see your runs were done with an Inertia of 100 & a ramp rate of 140.
Most of the others in this thread were done in shoot 4, with an inertia of 80 & a ramp rate of 100.
What this means is you're not having the same hobbling factor applied to your output.
That aside, if you're happy, realisticly none of that really matters, so hurry up & get some decent headers & some cams.
(My guess is after that the 5Zigen will be the next cork in the arse that needs to be looked at)

you certainly are out of the 'norm'. got more money than brains

^ harsh but true . At the end of the day the motor you just spend all this money on will get taken by a standard jdm k20a or a2

shnap

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TODA AU

Anyway, if you have a look at the bottom of your dyno sheet, you can see your runs were done with an Inertia of 100 & a ramp rate of 140.
Most of the others in this thread were done in shoot 4, with an inertia of 80 & a ramp rate of 100.
What this means is you're not having the same hobbling factor applied to your output.

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Adrian, had timmy had his runs done the same as most others, how would it affect his output readings?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by will13

Adrian, had timmy had his runs done the same as most others, how would it affect his output readings?

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It would have shown a lower reading by approx 8~10kw

Interesting - perhaps timmy should use your dyno for comparison

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TODA AU

Anyway, if you have a look at the bottom of your dyno sheet, you can see your runs were done with an Inertia of 100 & a ramp rate of 140.
Most of the others in this thread were done in shoot 4, with an inertia of 80 & a ramp rate of 100.
What this means is you're not having the same hobbling factor applied to your output.

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Adrian, I have emailed Scott at Insight to get some imput into this matter.. As i am not trained in Dyno tuning or have even the slightest clue as to what factors affect dyno runs I thought i would ask.. This is from Scott

"as discussed, your dyno printout was actually designed to demonstrate a lack of power increase and the need for additional modifications to improve engine hp. It was
not designed to illustrate any drastic improvement. This was the
intended point of the comparison graph. There were many runs indicating
kw figures almost identical to the sheet ran on various ramp rates."

Scott also said
"Adrian is actually 100% correct referring to the ramp rate
which can affect accurate kw comparison figures. Very high kw turbocharged engines can have quite a large affect on the output kw."

Hope this sheds some light on the matter and put this issue to bed... But it seems that there was no 8-10kw change from the variety of ramp rates at which my car was tune on..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Timmy_B

Hope this sheds some light on the matter and put this issue to bed... But it seems that there was no 8-10kw change from the variety of ramp rates at which my car was tune on..

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Shed some light… Good one Tim, I mean Mr HBNALM (Hearing but not actually listening man)
I agree with Scott… If you vary only the ramp rate on a low powered slug, the variation in output will minimal. Also the higher the vehicle output, the greater the variation due to ramp rate change.
But I didn't say just that. I said your output didn't have the hobling factor of both a lower ramp rate & lower inertia. The devil is in the detail & the missing magic word is inertia.
It's the combination of the two that makes a real difference easily accounts for 8~10kw stated previously.
Of course, whether you believe me or not is bye the bye,
Fact of the matter is when you run your car up in Shoot 4, you're going to be in for a reality check.
Anyway, one day you’ll have the benefit of hindsight. :thumbsup:

Adrian, I appriciate your concern on the matter and its good to get someone opinion as well.. I think after the first dyno sheet was posted up of the wrong power figure by that John Collins Dyno, i realised that there are alot of factors that can produce false readings.. And its a whole new world that i wont understand.
After everything we have spoken about, be the dyno is realistic or 10kw off im still happy.. Thats one thing you can't question. And to me its the most important. The car drive great, feels great and brakes great and too some, looks great.

back on topic...

Customer Car

Engine - Sleeved B18C + SPL Port tuned PR3 head
Displacement - 1979cc
Bore -85.00mm
Stroke - 87.20mm
CR - Undisclosed
Camshafts - TODA Racing
Camgear Settings - Undisclosed
Gearbox - S80 + M-Factory Straight cut, close ratio gear kit, final drive & Plate type LSD
I/H/E - Mugen Air Box, SPL 80mm Air pipe, TODA carbon surge tank, TODA 50mm quad throttles, TODA B18C V2 exhaust manifold + M-Factory 60mm cat back
ECU - MOTEC M800

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...011024x746.jpg
I've refined my proven combination more by incorperating my latest head port tuning data.
I'm also now using Dave's CNC chambers
Results are pleasing so far with more to come in the future.

Far out can I have that motor please Adrian lol btw I need to contact u bout my Hondata lol I've been busy as ...

Looks like Leonard's setup??

Fuuuuuu K series killer !!!!! Wow I'm impressed, any reason why kept the itr crank ? Reliability ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

Fuuuuuu K series killer !!!!! Wow I'm impressed, any reason why kept the itr crank ? Reliability ?

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Cheers...
Re B18C crank, the 87.2mm stroke crank best meets the power & power delivery target of this engine/application.
Reduced component cost & lower oil temps are just an added bonus.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TODA AU

back on topic...

Customer Car

Engine - Sleeved B18C + SPL Port tuned PR3 head
Displacement - 1979cc
Bore -85.00mm
Stroke - 87.20mm
CR - Undisclosed
Camshafts - TODA Racing
Camgear Settings - Undisclosed
Gearbox - S80 + M-Factory Straight cut, close ratio gear kit, final drive & Plate type LSD
I/H/E - Mugen Air Box, SPL 80mm Air pipe, TODA carbon surge tank, TODA 50mm quad throttles, TODA B18C V2 exhaust manifold + M-Factory 60mm cat back
ECU - MOTEC M800

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...011024x746.jpg
I've refined my proven combination more by incorperating my latest head port tuning data.
I'm also now using Dave's CNC chambers
Results are pleasing so far with more to come in the future.

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HUGE numbers for a bseries. huge numbers for any honda NA motor :thumbsup: track car? drag car? baller street car?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DNYALL

HUGE numbers for a bseries. huge numbers for any honda NA motor :thumbsup: track car? drag car? baller street car?

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I'm happy with it, particularly cause there's more in it.:)
Use is circuit race endurance engine.

Very impressive numbers arnt they now that ive seen them, sure some more tweaking and the other sub 2ltr one in the mix will yield more good numbers, but compare them to results of some K's and keeping dyno settings in mind, its all very cool, even compared to the figures out of the US.

Credit where due on that build though, sure the customer was pretty happy with it no doubt.

Thats not your sleeved B series monster Leo?

Mine is a while away due to other things but there are a few decent builds around and happening at the moment, there was a lot of big part no power builds there for a while so good to see some combo's and results posted with proof, just go back through this thread, hasnt been much to admire for a while.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TODA AU

I'm happy with it, particularly cause there's more in it.:)
Use is circuit race endurance engine.

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Kick'n ass Adrian

I finally get a K and you rip out crazy B power numbers lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

Thats not your sleeved B series monster Leo?

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Not hard to guess who's motor this is :o

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DNYALL

HUGE numbers for a bseries. huge numbers for any honda NA motor :thumbsup: track car? drag car? baller street car?

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Love it!!

Engine - JDM K20A
Displacement - standard
Bore - standard
Stroke - standard
CR - 11.5:1
Camshaft - skunk2 stage 2
Camgear Settings - standard exhaust 50 deg vtc
VTEC X-Over - 5000rpm
Gearbox - Fd2R
I/H/E - 3 inch home made intake with blox vstack filter, rbc manifold, 74mm skunk2 tb, jdmyard headers, 3 inch straight through 1 muffler high flow cat
ECU - kpro
also skunk2 valve springs and retainers


http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...ck20/dyno2.jpg

Nice progress Nick

Any before dyno graphs? Be interesting the power difference with those cams and mods.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fatboyz39

Any before dyno graphs? Be interesting the power difference with those cams and mods.

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as above, that'd be nice!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by evil R34

VTEC X-Over - unknown

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Vtec X-over - 5000rpm :thumbsup:

Re before & after...
Can do... But Nick, you'll need to PM me your rego number so can print one off & scan it.

Nb. The old ECU was an AEM EMS, so part of the gain (7~8kw*) is the swap to Hondata with better cam control.
* Based on 2 previous cars (EK K20 & DC5 K24) tuned with AEM then swapped to Hondata & tuned again.

Adrian is that power output typical for a jdm k20a with all the basic bolt-ons with cams? Did you choose/suggest this combo?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by u mad?

Adrian is that power output typical for a jdm k20a with all the basic bolt-ons with cams? Did you choose/suggest this combo?

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The combination used for this car is all Nicks. Nick built it himself & has proved more than capable with the spanners.
My input was as the tuner, so to be fair I’d say; though this sort of output is most certainly achievable with decent parts & tuning,
I wouldn't say it was typical.
The main power advantages for K-swaps like this over & above the bolt-on parts & cams used are no power steering & no A/C.
(That’s power to the wheels)
Disadvantages include noise & comfort.

Adrian whats your thoughts on the electric power steering pump from the mr2 for the kswapped cars?.
8hp vs 1-2 hp loss

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

Adrian whats your thoughts on the electric power steering pump from the mr2 for the kswapped cars?.
8hp vs 1-2 hp loss

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what do you mean 8hp vs 1-2 hp loss?

Engine - d16y4 SOHC Non Vtec
Displacement - 1.6L
Bore - 75mm
Stroke - 90mm
CR - 9.2:1
Camshaft - Bisimoto Level 1
Camgear Settings - 7 deg. advanced
Gearbox - Stock auto
I/H/E - Custom Cold Air/Wrapped 4-2-1 X-Force/2" Mandrel bent,no res.
ECU - Stock..

Low in power numbers but a great fun car to drive none the less.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...4/100_1516.jpg

Well Claimed Hp Loss when using P/S is around 6-8hp

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

Well Claimed Hp Loss when using P/S is around 6-8hp

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I've actually tested it on a B-Series track engine & the loss was 5.7kw.
The loss starts at 8200rpm with the total loss realised by 9100rpm
164.3kw vs 170kw
So that equates to 7.6hp at the wheels...
But it's only right up in the top end, the rest of the rev range is even stevens
NB:This is using an underdrive system vs none but I don't have any info re vs std pulley sizes but it's likley to be a little more.
The electric pump sounds like a good idea though as K's see measurable gains for using such systems (EP3, FN2, CL7)

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...vsNoP-S001.jpg

The above sheet illistrates the power loss from no power steering to using an under drive OEM power steering system. The main loss is up high.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TODA AU

Disadvantages include noise & comfort.

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hahahahahaha definitely noise


and thanks yonas must be those headers :P haha will cya on the 10th of october

As requested, Nick's (evil R34) before & after dyno sheet.
Please see post # 527 for specs.
evil R34 can elaborate on the changes.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...reafter001.jpg

Customer car

Engine - B18C2 (AUDM DC2 VtiR Motor)
Displacement - 1797cc
Bore -81.00mm
Stroke - 87.2mm
CR -Standard - Approx 10.2:1
Camshaft - Skunk 2 B-Series Pro 1 (SK2 valve train - cams, springs, retainers, valves)
Camgear Settings - Intake 105deg LCA / Exhaust 98deg LCA
Gearbox - OEM DC2 VtiR
I/H/E - GruppeM + Custom 3" pipe + SK2 70mm throttle + SK2 intake manifold + Buddyclub Header + 200Cel metal cat + 2.5" echaust.
ECU - Hondata OBD2a P28 S300
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...ttomend001.jpg
Notes:
* Above graph shows before & after power output (Base is stock - no modifications)
* The head has recived extensive port work based on our latest race engine data.
* There are a few pit falls in using this combination without certain proccesses being performed.
* The midrange could be improved significantly with the use of a better header (Ie Toda)
* Alternative camshafts may also deliver better results (I'll know soon enough anyway)

Impressive all things considered on the above post.....

So a cam change is going to happen?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Slaz

Impressive all things considered on the above post.....

So a cam change is going to happen?

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Naa, this one's done...
But more data for the memory bank & do better on the next one :)

Customer car

Engine - B18C7 (AUDM DC2 Type R Motor)
Displacement - 1797cc
Bore -81.00mm
Stroke - 87.2mm
CR -Standard - Approx 11.3:1 (Head overhaul + 0.6mm TODA head gasket)
Camshaft - TODA Racing Spec B (TODA valve train - cams, springs) Std retainers & std valves.
Camgear Settings - Intake 102.5deg LCA / Exhaust 102.5deg LCA (Vtec lobes)
Gearbox - OEM DC2 Type R
I/H/E - Mugen Airbox + Std throttle & manifold + TODA Header + 100Cel metal cat + SPOON N1 Exhaust.
ECU - Apexi Power FC
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...esB18C7002.jpg

Above image shows TODA B B18C7 vs Skunk2 Pro 1 B18C2 (From post 541)
The TODA engine (blue line) makes peak power @ 8000rpm (rev limit 8600rpm) - 8500rpm shown on dyno sheet
The SK2 engine (red line) makes peak power @ 8600rpm (rev limit 8900rpm) - 8800rpm shown on dyno sheet
(Different gear ratios & wheels sizes account for approx 10km of speed difference vs RPM - both 4th gear)
B18C7 has ported head (previous method) / B18C2 has ported head (new method)
B18C7 torque charaterisic is typical of Toda 4-2-1 header & Spec B
B18C2 torque charaterisic is typical of Try Y header

B17C7 with new method head porting comming soon...
The aim is to pass 145kw @ the wheels with a std bottom end B18C7

wow total output power means jackall vs all that midrange but what if the c2 engine had similar compression not really fair against stock vtir comp

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

wow total output power means jackall vs all that midrange but what if the c2 engine had similar compression not really fair against stock vtir comp

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Peak power diff is only 1.2kw
The midrange is cams & header.
Sure, comp & gear ratio helps a little, but the C2 has better artwork.
More comp would help...
But the comparison was just stock bottom end.
140+ is doable with the port work with either B18.

Wow, very impressive figures.

Just one quick question and I feel like a bit of a retard asking, but how did you increase displacement from 1797cc to 1979cc with standard bore and stroke? I feel like I'm missing something really simple... -_-

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NSPYRE

Wow, very impressive figures.

Just one quick question and I feel like a bit of a retard asking, but how did you increase displacement from 1797cc to 1979cc with standard bore and stroke? I feel like I'm missing something really simple... -_-

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LOL... The capacity is standard 1797cc...
looks like I mucked up capacity written with a dumb arse cut & paste that I didn't properly check.
I cut & paste the template from a previous post & the coppied the mistake.
Thanks though, I fixed it.

Engine - K24a3 (internally stock)
Displacement - 2400cc
Bore - Stock
Stroke - Stock
CR - Stock
Camshaft - stock
Camgear Settings - 50VTC
VTEC X-Over - 4400
Gearbox - Stock Accord Euro gearbox
I/H/E - RBC port matched 70mm T/B, K-swap V2 headers, 3inch system
ECU -Hondata Kpro
Fuel - Bio- Flex E85

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...lysdynorun.png

Engine - k20z1
Displacement -2000cc
Bore - stock
Stroke -stock
CR - stock
Camshaft - toda spec a2
Camgear Settings -
VTEC X-Over -5.6k
Gearbox -stock
I/H/E - gruppe m, rbc (port matched to tb), skunk2 70mm tb, toda headers+100cel cat, mugen twinloop
ECU - hlatech platinum pro plugin dc5 (tuned by toda au)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2...s800/dyno2.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by crashprash

Engine - k20z1
Displacement -2000cc
Bore - stock
Stroke -stock
CR - stock
Camshaft - toda spec a2
Camgear Settings -
VTEC X-Over -5.6k
Gearbox -stock
I/H/E - gruppe m, rbc (port matched to tb), skunk2 70mm tb, toda headers+100cel cat, mugen twinloop
ECU - hlatech platinum pro plugin dc5 (tuned by toda au)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2...s800/dyno2.jpg

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by crashprash

Engine - K20Z1
Displacement - 2
Bore - stock
Stroke - stock
CR - stock
Camshaft - toda a2 i/e
Gearbox - stock
I/H/E -gruppe m, rbc, skunk2 70mm TB, toda exhaust manifold, mugen twinloop
ECU - Haltech DC5 ecu

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_r3pd9gYI0BE/TD...s640/dyno2.jpg

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crashprash, what had you done to the car to see these gains? The parts you listed in each post seem to be the same.

port match the rbc and better tune maybe?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by u mad?

crashprash, what had you done to the car to see these gains? The parts you listed in each post seem to be the same.

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Just the tune...
As time has past, I've learnt a lot more about getting the most out of the Haltech Platinum Pro since I 1st tuned Crash's car,
+ there was a new software update with a few extra nice functions so i asked him to come back in to get that done.
ECU Manager 1.10.2 over the 1.08 that was in it.
Anyway, my new tricks worked well. :p

Main advantage is better VTC response on the gear shift & transition to Vtec
Better knock control
& improved/revised injection timing

Tuning is one of those things where you get better & better the more you do it,
So though I was happy with the result when I 1st tuned Crash's car,
(shortly after the Haltech was released.)
To stay at the top of my game, I'm always open to learning & trying new things.
So, since it'd been a while since I'd seen his car, I was pretty sure I could now do better
Case in point, these results are proof of that.

Crashprash how does the car compare to before

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TODA AU

Just the tune...
As time has past, I've learnt a lot more about getting the most out of the Haltech Platinum Pro since I 1st tuned Crash's car,
+ there was a new software update with a few extra nice functions so i asked him to come back in to get that done.
ECU Manager 1.10.2 over the 1.08 that was in it.
Anyway, my new tricks worked well. :p

Main advantage is better VTC response on the gear shift & transition to Vtec
Better knock control
& improved/revised injection timing

Tuning is one of those things where you get better & better the more you do it,
So though I was happy with the result when I 1st tuned Crash's car,
(shortly after the Haltech was released.)
To stay at the top of my game, I'm always open to learning & trying new things.
So, since it'd been a while since I'd seen his car, I was pretty sure I could now do better
Case in point, these results are proof of that.

---

Worth me getting a return Adrian?

Still can't break into the 13's

14.02 is my PB with the TYPE-R

Thanks for that Adrian.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lukezen27

Worth me getting a return Adrian?

Still can't break into the 13's

14.02 is my PB with the TYPE-R

---

how much power you got? whats your 60ft?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by u mad?

Thanks for that Adrian.



how much power you got? whats your 60ft?

---

137-140 ish

60ft 2.21 on the dot close to every run

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by u mad?

crashprash, what had you done to the car to see these gains? The parts you listed in each post seem to be the same.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TODA AU

Just the tune...
As time has past, I've learnt a lot more about getting the most out of the Haltech Platinum Pro since I 1st tuned Crash's car,
+ there was a new software update with a few extra nice functions so i asked him to come back in to get that done.
ECU Manager 1.10.2 over the 1.08 that was in it.
Anyway, my new tricks worked well. :p

Main advantage is better VTC response on the gear shift & transition to Vtec
Better knock control
& improved/revised injection timing

Tuning is one of those things where you get better & better the more you do it,
So though I was happy with the result when I 1st tuned Crash's car,
(shortly after the Haltech was released.)
To stay at the top of my game, I'm always open to learning & trying new things.
So, since it'd been a while since I'd seen his car, I was pretty sure I could now do better
Case in point, these results are proof of that.

---

Thanks Adrian

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GSi_PSi

Crashprash how does the car compare to before

---

looking at the graph u can see the vtec transition is a lot smoother and u can feel it when driving..i dont get a sudden burst of torque steer..its got a bit more torque down low..and really shifts at the high revs..not sure wt more u want me to say?

Engine - BYP K24/K20 Franskenstein
Displacement - 2400cc
Bore - 87mm
Stroke - 99mm
CR - 11.5: - 10.5
Camshaft - OEM
Camgear Settings - OEM
VTEC X-Over - 4500
Gearbox - GEAR-X
I/H/E -RRC + 70mm/4-1's/3inch
ECU -Hondata Kpro
Fuel - E85

This engine combination built by BYP goes to show the real potential of K-series using OEM products. There are little tricks and small addition added to the engine combination to make it all work well together. All thats needed to be known is that all major engine components are all OEM!

Note - Car was tuned on 18inch Advan 050's

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...9/bypfrank.jpg

^^^^^^ wow i cant wait for the egg now shit

how much power did it make? can't see the pics for some reason

edit- i see the pic now, fuarrrk 177 thats nuts

Oem ftw :)