Actually I tested this whole gear thing at the last dyno day.... did back to back runs in 3rd and 4th and there was only a 2kw difference.
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Fair enough, there ya go, tuners prefer 4th I guess
also third gear wnt show the correct torque figures they will be multiplied.. due to gear ratios.
my civic with b16b stock with adj cam gears (dont know if they've been adj) but
tuned with jdm itr and emanage blue pulling only 131hp atw does this sound right?
car had stock vti exhaust on it.
itr dc2,124kw atw .cold air intake,mugen twin loop,apexi neo. thats it .
Afternoon jack offs.... Your B16A dyno results?
Sorry to ressurect an old thread, but I've had quite a fun time reading this old thing.
Most of this thread goes fairly off topic, but if anyones keen to post their new or updated B16a 1/4 mile/dyno results, I'd be really interested to hear them.
:honda:Atmo 4TW
I made 99.4kw on what was labelled a 'low reading dyno' by the mechanic/tuner (he said it's probably closer to 110kw).
Just running JDM B16A in EF8 CRX, ghetto DIY CAI, RS-R headers, 5Zigen cat-back.
The previous owner told me that the engine is internally stock but now I'm not so sure.
My mate made 100.7kw with port work, Skunk 2 springs, retainers, valves, cam gears, Crower cam shaft, CAI, Fujitsubo headers and legalis cat-back (untuned).
My other mate made 84.9kw on his B18C7 with CAI and stock exhaust (Neptune ECU).
So I'll have to take a look inside my engine when I do timing belt/pump/head gasket over the next week or two :)
Thanks for the info. No ECU tune on your EF8 yet? A big factor is the state of the engine and how many Ks it's clocked up. How many on urs?
I think 110KW is a bit far fetched, I've done a bit of research and i've read of many fairly low mileage stock-as-a rock B16a2s pulling 77Kw atw, so 99Kw doesn't sound too far fetched.
unless you all use the same style dyno you will get different readings, just keep this in mind when comparing your power and whatnot
We all used the same dyno within 30 minutes of each other.
My engine is a 1990 B16A and has done 98,500 original KMs. Serviced every 5k KMs. Very healthy I believe. The mechanic said that of the 25 or so B16A's he's had on the dyno he's never felt one as smooth and easily rev'd up as mine. I don't think 110kw is far fetched for an internally mod'd engine, but for a stock internal one yes it sure is a lot to expect.
I'll post of the dyno sheet soon and we'll see if maybe I have some internal mods that previous owner wasn't aware of.
And no not tuned, stock ECU (checked that out when I got home that day lol).
That's why this is a good thread. So we can compare different results on different dynos with different mods.
I would like to see some bone stock B16a/B18C/K20a2 Dyno slips. I'm sure u've still got them somewhere!
Could you try to include (approx) engine mileage for stock results? Maybe I shoud start a new thread on this, I hope I'm not highjackin'.
Unless you open it up and check, it's hard to be defintely sure about what's in there. Otherwise, get another Dyno done at another reputable place familiar w/ hondas and compare.
I recommend you get a Hondata s200, they are heaps cheap from the 'States atm. Guaranteed gains, considering your I/H/E + (?internals).
If the head is built I'm considering B20VTEC bro. Hondata to rock it for sure
wtf a b18C7 making only 84.9kw +CAI+ECU.. ...
anyways can ppl post up their actual dyno graphs> or at least give us their tq numbers....b16a how shown good kw but curious to know the torque numbers
As I stated it's on shit headers and exhaust, running like a real dog so that he could get engineering cert. Will pull much better when it's finished but he just got huge hail damage which he might tend to first.
Here's my dyno graph:
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...e_504/dyno.jpg
Video (the liquid coming out of my exhaust is just condensation - I only drive it once a week)
http://s446.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=MVI_1788.flv
I already stated that it was not tuned in the very post of mine that you quoted. Also his compression is about 5% off optimal and he needs to demolish his rev-limiter. Further, like I said previously, the dyno is a 'low reading dyno' according to the mechanic and should probably be rated 10kw higher +/-.
My b16a2 in my ek4 made 113kw. Mods: -Type r intake manifold and throttle body, injin intake, HKS 4-1 header( headers were completly squashed), 2 1/4 catback, no cat. Head: Double valve springs, titanium retainers, and toda spec C's and adjustable cam gears. S300 ecu
Car was a monster but unfortunently only lasted one week as rubber from engine mount went directly into the timing belt and put the car out of timing :(. So therefore i bent 9valves in total. Now however i have gon b20 :)
This is a video of my ef8, it's pretty much stock apart from a k&n pod filter and an apexi vafc2, i'm not really into that much power, rather handling, and good choice of suspension conponents and tyres, to me that's more important than showing someone else I have more powerful car that them
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/q...h_MVI_1786.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_0087.jpg
Sorry about the pic
Bump.
Where do you guys recommend going to get a dyno run. I just got a em1 and I want to have a dyno run to see what it makes before I start buying parts. Atm it only got a Injen Cai.
Located in south west syd. And how much does it usually cost. Sorry for the noob questions.
back from the dead.... but no Dyno results, not happy jspec89, start a new thread k3nt
Lol, didn't want to start a new thread. Thought I could ask here and post up dyno sheet later.owells.
post in Noob or what/where to buy threads
b16a2 ek4 injen cut to a short ram 2 1/4 xforce 4-2-1 headers 200 cell high flow cat 2 1/4 xforce twinloop catback dynoed at byp making 101.6kw :))
Didn't think you could get XForce headers in 2.25".
2" or 60mm or 63mm I believe?
Good numbers though. Compression?
Yea thanks the engines only got 124000 km :-) I think that's why it did good umm I actaully think they are 2 inch soz and compression I dunno its just a stock motor with them bolt ons :-):-)
Stock B16A2
Intake: Stock DC2 Airbox & Intake Arm
Exhaust: Stock JDM ITR 4-1 Header, Stock JDM ITR 2.5 Inch Cat, Stock 2.25 Inch ITR B-Pipe, Stock 2 Inch EK4 Muffler
Tuned via Apexi VAFC II
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...iRG/photo2.jpg
put some type r cams lad ^
will get around 120
sorry i forgot they are 2 inch headers and compression i dunno its just stock
Ek4
B16A2
Injen CAI, Toda 421 Headers, B18c intake manifold, b18c head, Buddyclub spec 3 cams, xforce twinloop cat, apexi pfc
118kw
B16a with intake and straight pipe, 104.4kw atw (8,900km motor) on Byp dyno
......................
ek4 130000km on clock hondata s300 short ram intake 4-2-1 headers full twinloop exhaust 200cell high flow cat 105.6 atw at byp
Don't go to byp.
There's a whole thread about them.
I think he's already been there
I meant don't go back
Yes I saw that thread after I got my s300 from there :s habit worried now
Hi. Another OzHonda noob here. Thought this would be a good place to write about my B16A numbers when I had a working EG6 rally car along with some dyno sheets.
Just ignore my writing on the graphs. All runs were done over the years with Ed at Autotech here in Canberra on their Dyno Dynamics dyno. They upgraded to a different 4WD Dyno Dynamics around 2010 I think. My apologises for the fact that the graphs aren't in shoot out mode. Lastly, all runs were done on the same set of rally tyres. Not the best thing for gripping on a dyno and probably why the numbers read a lot lower than I expected. We ran a friends B16B rally car on the same dyno on the same dyno, changing from rally to worn road tyres and it went from 91kw to 105kw atw! Another guy with a different rally car has seen rally to road tyres knocking 1kw off the peak power though.
Anyway:
I hope these numbers all help some people who are looking at mods.
Setup 1:
I started off with it in standard OEM spec, just with Jasma extractors that it came with and dirty exhaust. Exhaust was some 2" piece of junk that had squashed down to 1" in one spot. It didn't make a difference. ~95kw
http://imageshack.com/a/img13/1861/zyfm.jpg
...then we removed the air filter for a 'best case' scenario:
http://imageshack.com/a/img854/8859/pmgp.jpg
Another nice 4kw atw from having no air filter was suprising. We tried advancing the dizzy at the time but it made no difference. Honda certainly built these engines well.
Setup 2:
I brought some OBX quads from the US, put air filter socks on them. Also replaced the exhaust with a nice 2.5" all the way through with a single hot dog and 2.5" straight thru muffler and tip. Went the 'Crome' route on the ECU myself just aiming for 13:1 on the A:FR at WOT. I also changed the gearbox to a Team MFactory one, with 4.875:1 Final Drive, and short ratio 3,4,5th at this point. Max speed was 175kph at 8,300 I think. 5,000rpm at 100kph down the high way was kind of noisy.
End result: 105-106kw atw:
http://imageshack.com/a/img7/5079/6tem.jpg
Here's the same picture with the AFRs on it. And, from the time, my own estimation of the original 95kw run. Basically, it felt like the quads moved the power curve to come in about 800 rpm earlier. So much nicer to drive basically.
http://imageshack.com/a/img41/2646/1qgf.jpg
After a season of rallying and wearing the engine out a bit, it was down to 103kw atw.
I organised a dyno day and had the chance to run my car with a 2" straight through muffler versus a 2.5" muffler. Difference: 2kw atw...if you're interested.
http://imageshack.com/a/img17/3082/8x76.jpg
Setup 3:
Time to get serious to try and give the turbo 4WDs a run for their money.
So, I used an EFI Hardware.com airbox to put around the quads, then had to extend it to keep the fuel injectors inside the box. 4" flexi pipe feeding it.
Mahle 11.5:1 C/R pistons.
Supertech valve springs.
4:1 eBay replica extractors based on the PLM B series extractors. Awesome looking set.
Davies Craig Electric Water Pump with mechanical water pump removal plate.
Red lines are the old readings from the worn Quads from Setup 2.
End result: 114kw
http://imageshack.com/a/img24/4368/wif3.jpg
Here's the torque curve. About 15% more torque higher up.
http://imageshack.com/a/img407/3575/dfn8.jpg
Setup 4:
Unfortunately in doing Setup 3, I managed to cook the engine mainly because the radiator fan didn't come on initially. Big fail. As part of the diagnostic process, I removed the electric water pump and put the mechanical back in....
Blue line is the mechanical, Red is the Electric Water Pump.
End result: 110kw:
http://imageshack.com/a/img6/4660/ce39.jpg
The graph above doesn't strike me as quite right as the blue curve shouldn't be to the left of the red (superior) curve. Fuel, tyre pressure, who knows. We hadn't changed the ignition curve between the two setups.
I hope this helps...
Thanks.
Mark
No offence mawkman but that tune still needs some work to smooth out the AFR's and a big thumbs up for all the rest of your developments.
Yeah, Allmtr996, you are right - the AFRs aren't the prettiest down low in particular. :) It was really cost of the dyno time, and I only probably needed to add in a few more rpm mapping points in Crome, and in competition anything less than 5,200rpm is generally time to knock it down a gear. I wished I had the time to get it nice and smooth and get a few more kws out of the mid range consequently.
Thanks.
Mark