oh really that doesn't sound too bad. so would've been around $2800. Do they all just bolt on nicely?
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there should be screws on the ends + brackets to support them underneath each piece.
With the rear camber brackets, i heard they are somewhat of a biatch to fit and that the camber arms are easier if your DIY
all modulo pieces bolts on nicely
has anyone chipped/reflashed their fd?
Do you find it is absolutely necessary to get the front + rear camber kits with S-Tech springs?
I notice the initial drop is not much, I'll say 4 cms for the front and 3 cms for the rears.
Can I still get stock setting camber using the stock bolts?
Sorry for the noob question since this is the first time I lowered my car.
as soon as u lower ur car u will get some natural negative camber. the drop on springs isnt so severe on the tyre wear. just as long as u have ur toe straight, ur tyres will be fine. when u start to slam and dump ur car, then u get some substatial camber to ur tyres. its recommended to get camber arms or bots to adjust the natural negative camber, so ur tyres have full contact with the road. however, if ur trying to pull off some hella wide and low offset wheels, whilst being lowered, then camber arms and bolts will help u get even MORE negative camber to help tuck those wheels under ur guards and prevent scrubbing. u will look like a mad kent, but the trade off will obvisouly be that ur tyres will wear unevenly.. and perhaps quicker if the toe isnt alligned
For daily street driving the newer people to lowering cars should be looking to get as close to +0 on the front as possible.. Running negative camber on the front during the rain will make your car handling pos, and you'll end up off the road. The rear is ok as it just follows the front.(:
P.s u shouldn't need camber arms or bolts or a 1-1.5" inch drop. It's like having two people in yourcar at all times..
unless he's running 9.5" wide wheels with +15 offset lol
You would need to wide body that anyhow :p
X9.5 +30 only just fits on the rear ;)