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  1. #11065
    Quote Originally Posted by ej20i View Post
    I bought genuine modulo kit from Honda. It was 700 each and fit em ur self. Very easy.
    oh really that doesn't sound too bad. so would've been around $2800. Do they all just bolt on nicely?

  2. #11066
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    2007 FD1
    there should be screws on the ends + brackets to support them underneath each piece.

  3. #11067
    With the rear camber brackets, i heard they are somewhat of a biatch to fit and that the camber arms are easier if your DIY

  4. #11068
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Kellyville, SYDNEY
    Car:
    Civic FD1, Impreza, GE6
    all modulo pieces bolts on nicely

  5. #11069
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    FD2, CL9
    has anyone chipped/reflashed their fd?
    Last edited by lukeskies; 31-03-2011 at 10:20 PM.

  6. #11070
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    CU2 Lux
    Quote Originally Posted by evolution View Post
    I got mine fitted by my mechanic and then sent to a specialized suspension workshop to get it all aligned.
    Do you find it is absolutely necessary to get the front + rear camber kits with S-Tech springs?
    I notice the initial drop is not much, I'll say 4 cms for the front and 3 cms for the rears.
    Can I still get stock setting camber using the stock bolts?

    Sorry for the noob question since this is the first time I lowered my car.
    Cusco RSB setup and Tein S-Tech for sale
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...okies-Civic-FD

  7. #11071
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    2007 FD1
    as soon as u lower ur car u will get some natural negative camber. the drop on springs isnt so severe on the tyre wear. just as long as u have ur toe straight, ur tyres will be fine. when u start to slam and dump ur car, then u get some substatial camber to ur tyres. its recommended to get camber arms or bots to adjust the natural negative camber, so ur tyres have full contact with the road. however, if ur trying to pull off some hella wide and low offset wheels, whilst being lowered, then camber arms and bolts will help u get even MORE negative camber to help tuck those wheels under ur guards and prevent scrubbing. u will look like a mad kent, but the trade off will obvisouly be that ur tyres will wear unevenly.. and perhaps quicker if the toe isnt alligned

  8. #11072
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treasury Casino
    Car:
    fd1
    Quote Originally Posted by aero View Post
    as soon as u lower ur car u will get some natural negative camber. the drop on springs isnt so severe on the tyre wear. just as long as u have ur toe straight, ur tyres will be fine. when u start to slam and dump ur car, then u get some substatial camber to ur tyres. its recommended to get camber arms or bots to adjust the natural negative camber, so ur tyres have full contact with the road. however, if ur trying to pull off some hella wide and low offset wheels, whilst being lowered, then camber arms and bolts will help u get even MORE negative camber to help tuck those wheels under ur guards and prevent scrubbing. u will look like a mad kent, but the trade off will obvisouly be that ur tyres will wear unevenly.. and perhaps quicker if the toe isnt alligned
    you sound like an engineer. can you set my car up for the track please lol

  9. #11073
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    VIC
    Car:
    06 TC'd RB1
    Quote Originally Posted by pitiek View Post
    Do you find it is absolutely necessary to get the front + rear camber kits with S-Tech springs?
    I notice the initial drop is not much, I'll say 4 cms for the front and 3 cms for the rears.
    Can I still get stock setting camber using the stock bolts?

    Sorry for the noob question since this is the first time I lowered my car.
    Quote Originally Posted by aero View Post
    as soon as u lower ur car u will get some natural negative camber. the drop on springs isnt so severe on the tyre wear. just as long as u have ur toe straight, ur tyres will be fine. when u start to slam and dump ur car, then u get some substatial camber to ur tyres. its recommended to get camber arms or bots to adjust the natural negative camber, so ur tyres have full contact with the road. however, if ur trying to pull off some hella wide and low offset wheels, whilst being lowered, then camber arms and bolts will help u get even MORE negative camber to help tuck those wheels under ur guards and prevent scrubbing. u will look like a mad kent, but the trade off will obvisouly be that ur tyres will wear unevenly.. and perhaps quicker if the toe isnt alligned
    ^^^ What he said

    +++ I was trying to resolve scrubbing issues on the rear due to the specs of the rims and I couldn't stand how +ve cambered the front looked in relation to the back, so I got front and rear kits.
    Old man that drives slow cars

  10. #11074
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    canberra
    Car:
    bmw
    For daily street driving the newer people to lowering cars should be looking to get as close to +0 on the front as possible.. Running negative camber on the front during the rain will make your car handling pos, and you'll end up off the road. The rear is ok as it just follows the front.(:

    P.s u shouldn't need camber arms or bolts or a 1-1.5" inch drop. It's like having two people in yourcar at all times..
    Last edited by ekdez; 01-04-2011 at 06:33 AM.

  11. #11075
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    2007 FD1
    unless he's running 9.5" wide wheels with +15 offset lol

  12. #11076
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    canberra
    Car:
    bmw
    You would need to wide body that anyhow
    X9.5 +30 only just fits on the rear

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