h22a mods

Hi i have just purchased a vehicle and it has the h22a engine in it.

I do not want to go turbo and would like to start things slowley.

I know that it has a cat back system and an air filter

what do people reccomend me going for next, i was thinging a set of decent extractors??

Just want some opinions voiced to see what people think, I am not very good with the mechanics of a car and am in a learning curve.

My engine currently has 113kw atw and would like to get this up to 150kw atw eventually over the next year.

But 1 step at a time.

Thanks John

lots of Head Work!

This is how much you have to do to get 150kw atw.

http://www.modproject.com.au/forum/i...hp?showtopic=7

Looks as though i had better save mypennys then :p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Benson

lots of Head Work!

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Yep. :thumbsup:

first mods you usually do to any engine is intake / headers/ exhaust.

you should get skunk2 intake mani from jdmyard range of intake manifolds

headers: theres a large range of aftermarket headers. for example dc sports 4-2-1 headers.

exhaust: you already have one? maybe check what cat you have. i think the most unrestrictive cat out there would be the metal cat? mandrel bent exhausts are less restrictive then press bent ones.

after that i wreckon you should go get urself a hondata and a tune from dynodave. or if you wanted to go the cost effective way to avoid buying a hondata ecu, probs have to get a jumper harness and convert ur ecu to obd1 from ur obd2a (if your h22a is a later model) setting. or maybe ur h22a is obd1 and if so, forget what i was rantin on about! haha

after that i wreckon you could easily achieve atleast 120-125kw atw.

or stick to the h22a headers just like the Hi-Comp Civic

Quote:

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Originally Posted by imratedpg

first mods you usually do to any engine is intake / headers/ exhaust.

you should get skunk2 intake mani from jdmyard range of intake manifolds

headers: theres a large range of aftermarket headers. for example dc sports 4-2-1 headers.

exhaust: you already have one? maybe check what cat you have. i think the most unrestrictive cat out there would be the metal cat? mandrel bent exhausts are less restrictive then press bent ones.

after that i wreckon you should go get urself a hondata and a tune from dynodave. or if you wanted to go the cost effective way to avoid buying a hondata ecu, probs have to get a jumper harness and convert ur ecu to obd1 from ur obd2a (if your h22a is a later model) setting. or maybe ur h22a is obd1 and if so, forget what i was rantin on about! haha

after that i wreckon you could easily achieve atleast 120-125kw atw.

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From what i've been reading, shunk2 manifold don't perform as well as compare to the OEM. If you van get a hold of an Euro R manifold, then you'll be sweet. They give good gains and look like the type R manifolds on a b18c type R. Its an OEm product so you cant go wrong

As for headers, spend the extra money now and save in the long run. Get SMPS, RMF or Camp1320.

Then move on to a ported head. Give it more air flow.

Get a hondata and get dynodave to tune the car. You should be able to make anywhere from 125-135kw depending on dyno.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Benson

From what i've been reading, shunk2 manifold don't perform as well as compare to the OEM. If you van get a hold of an Euro R manifold, then you'll be sweet. They give good gains and look like the type R manifolds on a b18c type R. Its an OEm product so you cant go wrong

As for headers, spend the extra money now and save in the long run. Get SMPS, RMF or Camp1320.

Then move on to a ported head. Give it more air flow.

Get a hondata and get dynodave to tune the car. You should be able to make anywhere from 125-135kw depending on dyno.

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err dont know where you've been reading but how on earth can an aftermarket product be less superior than the original product :eek: proof by dynographs!

you should read here to know about skunk2 intake manifolds here

Skunk2 intake manifold vs. OEM intake manifold Dynograph

Skunk2 intake manifold vs. EURO R intake manifold Dynograph

as for the DC 4-2-1 headers + exhaust system dynograph 12.3kw ATW difference! but its not a genuine 12.3kwatw but if we were to do it, we wouldnt achieve 12.3kwatw because we wouldnt remove the cat now would we :p

but yeah i totally agree on hondata and a tune by dynodave. and as i said in the last post, you should be able to make atleast 120-125kw atw.

DC headers are a waste of money, and not worth shipping to australia for your car. Their are many more better alternatives.

Skunk IM will give you gains, and tests have show better than Euro R and cheaper.

The main thing is, is to research carefully and for a period of time before jumping in and modifying your car blindly.

Just so you guys know i bought this vehicle off h22a accord off this forum.

He told me that the headers came with the engine when he bought it.

I think they are jdm ones but i got no idea. Is there anyway i can find out or would you know what they are as the engine is a h22a 200hp engine off a 96 prelude.

Also with the hondata, which model is the best i have read a little but do notunderstand the different models, s100, s200 , s300??

I am so confused and dont want to waste my money on something that i cannot add to later.

Thanks John

www.hondata.com explains the differences between ECU's.

If you have a jap version of the H22 you will have a JAP coded ECU as well (unless it has been changed).