Buddyclub N+ whistle sound when hitting small bumps

I've only had the BC N+ in for a few weeks and i'm hearing a brief half a second whistle noise each time i hit small bumps, sounds like its coming from the front left damper. At slow speeds i can't hear it, although from say 60-100Km/hr its noticeable.

I don't know exactly how these dampers work but its like the damper hits the bump and is loosing some gas pressure and therefore giving that whistle sound as the damper compresses from going over a small bump.

Its difficult to explain but i think that gives you guys the picture of what I'm hearing.

hmm where did u get it installed ? i think u should go back and tell the shop to get it rechecked cuz i havent got any problem with mine

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Originally Posted by felixd

hmm where did u get it installed ? i think u should go back and tell the shop to get it rechecked cuz i havent got any problem with mine

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Got them installed at my local wheel and automotive centre, the guys have a good rap. (Wollongong tyres and automotive centre)

I guess i might have to take it to them to have a listen but it sounds like i got a faulty one.

Whistle or more of a thud noise?

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Originally Posted by Crapdaz

Whistle or more of a thud noise?

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definitely a whistle, almost like when a person gets winded and the air gets forced out of them, but making a really quick whistle sound :p

lol its such a weird way to explain it but its the only way that makes any sense

I get the same sound on my used set of Teins. I reckon it is the oil rushing through the valving.

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Originally Posted by aaronng

I get the same sound on my used set of Teins. I reckon it is the oil rushing through the valving.

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Either way, its not a normal functioning sound the dampers should be making. Especially considering mine is only a couple of weeks old and the sound only started yesterday.

I told JDMyard about the noise and they said the following:

'IT is very normal to hear compression noise out of aftermarket suspension,
the air/gas is not leaking at all, just that the particular shock is making
more noise than the other when being compress/rebound.

you do not have to worry a thing unless the shock is not functioning
properly or leaking.'

So case closed i guess.

well for my tein mfp i get alot of thudding noises and rattling but thats because of pillowball mount construction and tein's shocks are slightly noisier.

Might just need to get use to.

Hey all,
To get rid of some of the noises and feeling the rattles through the car body I have put some 3mm high tensile 'if you call is that' rubber between the top of the pillow mount and the car body. This has quitened things up alot and did not effect the ride or height. You could also spray some sound deadening in the shock well to dampen some of the noises. Cheers.
Luke

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Originally Posted by E_Honda

Either way, its not a normal functioning sound the dampers should be making. Especially considering mine is only a couple of weeks old and the sound only started yesterday.

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Actually, coilovers make much more sound compared to standard dampers or even aftermarket dampers. The reason being that the damping on coilovers is much stronger to compensate for the stiffer springs that coilovers tend to have. You can get the sound when new.

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Actually, coilovers make much more sound compared to standard dampers or even aftermarket dampers. The reason being that the damping on coilovers is much stronger to compensate for the stiffer springs that coilovers tend to have. You can get the sound when new.

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This is the main reason i went for shocks and springs.I can't stand squeaks and noises in a car.

I guess i'll just have to learn to live with it, or crank the music so i can't hear it. I'm still glad i went coilovers since i like to have the adjustability of the damper stiffness.

I just have it at one setting and leave it as that. The only time i change it is when I go on to track were I set the damping to be stronger. For street, I find somewhere in the middle settings to be more comfortable than the softest setting.

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Originally Posted by tony1234

This is the main reason i went for shocks and springs.I can't stand squeaks and noises in a car.

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squeaks and noises = character :D

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Originally Posted by integral90

squeaks and noises = character :D

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That's one way of looking at it.:D

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Originally Posted by aaronng

I just have it at one setting and leave it as that. The only time i change it is when I go on to track were I set the damping to be stronger. For street, I find somewhere in the middle settings to be more comfortable than the softest setting.

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How do you set it back to factory default on the BC N+, do you just keep turning anti-clockwise until it doesn't click anymore? I've lost count of what its on at the moment so i wanna start from scratch. Whats the max number of turns front and back that it supports?

front n rear 15 - 16 clicks :)

15 clicks cause it's 15 levels...
15 levels = 14 clicks from highest/lowest setting.

ok so 15 clicks is the limit, but what if i've lost count and want to reset it back to the first setting to start from scratch? how do i know when i've reached the start or the end, does it just stop turning?

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Originally Posted by E_Honda

ok so 15 clicks is the limit, but what if i've lost count and want to reset it back to the first setting to start from scratch? how do i know when i've reached the start or the end, does it just stop turning?

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as i said earlier with your PM's carefully turn until the knob won't move anymore.

when you think your at the end turn it back and count how many times the damper knob clicks if it has 14 clicks then you will know.

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Originally Posted by E_Honda

How do you set it back to factory default on the BC N+, do you just keep turning anti-clockwise until it doesn't click anymore? I've lost count of what its on at the moment so i wanna start from scratch. Whats the max number of turns front and back that it supports?

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First, count the number of clicks from full clockwise to full anti-clockwise. It should be about 14-15 clicks. If you find that you get about 22-25 clicks, then you should only use the first 15 clicks from full clockwise. I think BC N+ should have only 14-15 clicks, unlike Teins which have many more clicks and can cause damage to the valving if the wrong setting is used.

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Originally Posted by aaronng

First, count the number of clicks from full clockwise to full anti-clockwise. It should be about 14-15 clicks. If you find that you get about 22-25 clicks, then you should only use the first 15 clicks from full clockwise. I think BC N+ should have only 14-15 clicks, unlike Teins which have many more clicks and can cause damage to the valving if the wrong setting is used.

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Ok, but still i'm not at the end of full clockwise. The main thing i want to know is when i do keep turning full clockwise until i reach the end, when do i know its the end does it just stop clicking? I just don't want to over turn and break something

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Originally Posted by aaronng

First, count the number of clicks from full clockwise to full anti-clockwise. It should be about 14-15 clicks. If you find that you get about 22-25 clicks, then you should only use the first 15 clicks from full clockwise. I think BC N+ should have only 14-15 clicks, unlike Teins which have many more clicks and can cause damage to the valving if the wrong setting is used.

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As aaron has said use the 14 midrange clicks.

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Originally Posted by E_Honda

Ok, but still i'm not at the end of full clockwise. The main thing i want to know is when i do keep turning full clockwise until i reach the end, when do i know its the end does it just stop clicking? I just don't want to over turn and break something

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Go full clockwise first. You don't need to use force. A light finger is all you need. Once you hit the end, stop. Then count while turning anti-clockwise.

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Go full clockwise first. You don't need to use force. A light finger is all you need. Once you hit the end, stop. Then count while turning anti-clockwise.

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Hey aaron when i turned chris' N+ you had to turn it harder because it was tight.

Not as easy as the tein where you slot in the key and twist and it flicks straight away.

found out for myself the other day, its 15 turns front and 13 rear. I just kept turning until it gets really hard then i'm at the beginning or end.

I've set mine to 7 clicks front and 9 clicks rear and seems comfortable to drive around on.

Does anyone know how or if its difficult to adjust the height of the buddyclub N+ coilovers so i can do it myself? Pedders charged me something like $70 to adjust the height last time and $110 for a wheel alignment front and rear. Also i'm guessing the camber kit i have installed will need adjusting when raising or lowering the car as well.

I know i'll need another wheel alignment when lowering it again but i can do that cheaper somewhere else

wow !!! its not hard. Ull basically need a tape meter and pen and paper. adjust the desire height u want and record it :D

you need to measure about 2 sections.
the top mount to spring seat and spring seat to thread level. <-- make them equal on both sides and your done.
as felixd said it's pretty easy, loosen the thread seat @ bottom and twist thread shorter (clockwise).

height you do yourself and take it to peddars or heasman for alignment for $110.

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Originally Posted by E_Honda

found out for myself the other day, its 15 turns front and 13 rear. I just kept turning until it gets really hard then i'm at the beginning or end.

I've set mine to 7 clicks front and 9 clicks rear and seems comfortable to drive around on.

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If your turning clockwise and you get to the point that is hard --> HARDEST setting
If your turning anticlockwise and you get to the point that is hard --> SOFTEST setting
So from what you said i am assuming you were running 0-2 damper setting which is pretty soft.
But riding in .QD's N+ on 10-7 it was still damn comfortable.

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Originally Posted by Crapdaz

you need to measure about 2 sections.
the top mount to spring seat and spring seat to thread level. <-- make them equal on both sides and your done.
as felixd said it's pretty easy, loosen the thread seat @ bottom and twist thread shorter (clockwise).

height you do yourself and take it to peddars or heasman for alignment for $110.


If your turning clockwise and you get to the point that is hard --> HARDEST setting
If your turning anticlockwise and you get to the point that is hard --> SOFTEST setting
So from what you said i am assuming you were running 0-2 damper setting which is pretty soft.
But riding in .QD's N+ on 10-7 it was still damn comfortable.

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What about adjusting the camber kit once you lower the car? i guess pedders will need to do that hey?

you lower the car and they do the rest.

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Originally Posted by E_Honda

What about adjusting the camber kit once you lower the car? i guess pedders will need to do that hey?

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Once you have installed the camber kit, any tyre shop can do the alignment and adjust it for you. I use the Bridgestone Tyre Centre near work. Costs me about $55-60 for a 4-wheel alignment set to my own settings.