Overall Rebuild: Three Issues i need help with.

Ok so i went to go pick up my civic from the tuners today and was told that my rings need replacing before taking it anywhere close to 20psi :(

Only rebuilt my motor roughly 20 thou ago. The previous tune must have chewed them up over a year. So i mean i've stopped mechanics working on my car for over 3 years now. I've done everything myself, building turbo kits, removing the motor, changing clutches, suspension work, wiring. Pretty much everything bar from Tuning a car (which should always be left to someone who has had experience) and cracking apart the motor.

Do you guys think its a possibility to replace the rings myself. My unk has an engine rebuilding shop so i will take it to him if i get stuck. But i would like to do it myself. I have the tools and the shed space and i will get some advice off him but i just wanted to know cos a few people on here would have done it.

Also what would be rough time it would take to complete by myself? I know theres ways of getting around it by not taking out the whole motor and just removing the bottom end and doing it that way. What would be the easiest way?

if you can jack it up enough to get under it, just remove the head and the sump, removing the sump will allow you to undo the big ends and then just push the pistons up through the bare block, replace the rings, then drop the pistons back in (properly of course) and do the big ends back up.

However, if your cylinder walls are scratched you may need to get them honed which is always recommended when installing new piston rings to ensure they seal properly.

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Originally Posted by FastFwd

Ok so i went to go pick up my civic from the tuners today and was told that my rings need replacing before taking it anywhere close to 20psi :(

Only rebuilt my motor roughly 20 thou ago. The previous tune must have chewed them up over a year. So i mean i've stopped mechanics working on my car for over 3 years now. I've done everything myself, building turbo kits, removing the motor, changing clutches, suspension work, wiring. Pretty much everything bar from Tuning a car (which should always be left to someone who has had experience) and cracking apart the motor.

Do you guys think its a possibility to replace the rings myself. My unk has an engine rebuilding shop so i will take it to him if i get stuck. But i would like to do it myself. I have the tools and the shed space and i will get some advice off him but i just wanted to know cos a few people on here would have done it.

Also what would be rough time it would take to complete by myself? I know theres ways of getting around it by not taking out the whole motor and just removing the bottom end and doing it that way. What would be the easiest way?

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If you were willing to suffer the downtime from doing everything yourself (usually much longer than when done professionally) it's not so much the mechanical work it's that if something needs to be machined/honed/bored (as trism mentioned) or you need to oversize the cylinders and you initially buy the incorrect products...It can be a costly, prolonged and annoying process...

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Originally Posted by ZeForce

However, if your cylinder walls are scratched you may need to get them honed which is always recommended when installing new piston rings to ensure they seal properly.

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I dont think this should be a problem Zeforce, well i hope not. The engine is running fine, its just blowing a little smoke occasionally. We could have pushed the engine upto 12-15psi safely but the tuner said the engine would only last 6 months that way. I would like to correct this issue now so i dont cause a bigger problem later.

We have set the car with a clean tune to run upto 7psi atm but im just going to drive it like a nanna until i replace the rings

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Originally Posted by Sp00ny

If you were willing to suffer the downtime from doing everything yourself (usually much longer than when done professionally) it's not so much the mechanical work it's that if something needs to be machined/honed/bored (as trism mentioned) or you need to oversize the cylinders and you initially buy the incorrect products...It can be a costly, prolonged and annoying process...

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As i was saying to Zeforce, i hope there is no issue with the bores, the car runs completely fine atm so i mean its not actually in to bad shape. the car could perfectly run NA for another 100 thou. But trying to boost it up or over 20psi with the rings i have atm is just not gonna happen.

I will have to speak with my uncle about the bore size etc on the pistons we installed in the last rebuild because they are slightly oversized and de-compressive.

I think if i find anything wrong with the bores ill bolt it back up and remove the motor chuck it on the ute and drive it to my uncles to get the bores honed etc and done properly. But in saying that i will probably pull apart my engine bay and shave everything and hide my wiring and get the engine bay resprayed. I was going to do that in the last rebuild but i couldnt be stuffed.

Im in the process of replacing my rings atm so im pulling off the head and in the mean time im checking the turbo life and fixing a few issues while i have everything apart. Im also installing a LSD and a new exedy racing clutch. I have come across a few issues atm which i need help with.

1. Turbo fins have some gashes + intake bore is extremely rough + has minor shaft play. Do you think rebuild? or new turbo? or is there anyway i can upgrade this turbo with a bigger housing to support 400hp or over?
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/IMGP3033.jpghttp://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/IMGP3042.jpghttp://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/IMGP3044.jpg

2. I painted over my ceramic coating about 1 year ago with Exhaust manifold Paint but its pealed off. Does anyone know how i can get this painted so it wont peal off? Do you use some sort of primer? cos i just cleaned it up and painted it.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/IMGP3037.jpg

3. How would i go about getting this stud out of my head so i can replace it with a new one. Its always been stuck in there and every time i pull the mani off i think "it should be alright with missing" but as you can see there is leekage which i need to fix. Do i drill it the rethred? should i get it professionally done while the head is off?
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/IMGP3046.jpg

1. Get the turbo rebuilt, otherwise source a second hand one. Won't cost much more for either option.

2. Provided you've roughed the surface up before you painted it with some wet and dry, the paint will hold, especially if its the hi-temp paint (which it is).

3. You can buy stud removal bits from bunnings. Buy one that's a good/appropriate size for that stud you need removed. It's got a reverse drill tread so it grabs on to the sides when you turn it counter clockwise. Drill a 10-20mm hole in the stud and use it as such to take it out. Shouldn't be too hard...Did you take it off while it was still hot? Or was it overtightened? Looks like you've stripped the top bolt a bit as well.

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Originally Posted by hayashi_1986

1. Get the turbo rebuilt, otherwise source a second hand one. Won't cost much more for either option.

2. Provided you've roughed the surface up before you painted it with some wet and dry, the paint will hold, especially if its the hi-temp paint (which it is).

3. You can buy stud removal bits from bunnings. Buy one that's a good/appropriate size for that stud you need removed. It's got a reverse drill tread so it grabs on to the sides when you turn it counter clockwise. Drill a 10-20mm hole in the stud and use it as such to take it out. Shouldn't be too hard...Did you take it off while it was still hot? Or was it overtightened? Looks like you've stripped the top bolt a bit as well.

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I probably wont buy another second hand turbo, I will probably repair the gt28. Anyone know rough prices on rebuilds?

Yeh i didnt rough up the surface so i will give that a try tomorrow and let you know how i go.

The stud has been snapped off like that since i got the exhaust shop to fix an old exhaust manifold i had. I didnt realise it was broken until over a year later so it was to late.

also if anyone know what upgrades i can do to my turbo like changing exhaust housings etc to get my turbo to run upto or over 400hp could you let me know.

3. What you're looking for is an "easy-out". They can be brittle though and exhaust bolts have a habit of being stuck in hard so be sure to clean out the threads really well and use plenty of WD40.

All i can recommend with 'easy outs', is dont get a cheap one. They will just break time and time again. Definately one tool you dont want to cheap out on if you want to get that stud out of there.

However, as above, it will likely be stuck hard in the head, so your best option might be to get it removed by a mobile thread repair guy while the head is off.

they have mobile thread repair guys? I will have a look in the yellow pages.

The Three issues have been sorted:

Went to turbo tech and they told me that my turbo is roughly fine. has minimal shaft play and will need to be rebuild in 50 thou. This scare made me realise anyways that i need a bigger turbo so im currently selling this.

Exhaust manifold i have painted with 3 coats so far, i might go for another 3 just to be sure it doesnt peal off under heat like last time.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/IMGP3050.jpg

And the stud stuck in my block was pretty easy to get out. Heres a few pics on what i did and the overall outcome.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/IMGP3054.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/IMGP3052.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/IMGP3051.jpg

I also used a threading set to run through the tread to clean it up afterward which turned out great.

I got the dam thred stuck on the thred removal bit but meh the set only cost me $9.95

Very nice, i would of suggested getting the manifold HPC coated or similar. maybe some heat wrap. This stuff makes a great difference with heat soak, especially with FWD having heat sources so close to cooling systems (radiator / intercooler). Plus Heat coating (HPC) and/or heat wrap looks great!!

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Originally Posted by Sexc86

Very nice, i would of suggested getting the manifold HPC coated or similar. maybe some heat wrap. This stuff makes a great difference with heat soak, especially with FWD having heat sources so close to cooling systems (radiator / intercooler). Plus Heat coating (HPC) and/or heat wrap looks great!!

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Its already been coated. Thats why im having trouble with the paint sticking

I was thinking about getting wrap also.

Ok so i gotta remove my head to replace my rings. I searched around on the forum and found that a few people are asking DIY's on Head Gasket replacement so i thought i would kill two birds with one stone. I need help trying to figure out how to get the head off from this picture below.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/IMGP3061.jpg

I cant seam to figure out where the head bolts onto the bottom end.

The bolts are under the camshafts, you need to remove all the cam caps and cams

EDIT: If you need/want a pdf of the service manual just PM me

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...befb970767.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...c93466d5a7.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/IMGP3092.jpg

I need to find where to get the socket for the Star shaped bolts connecting the rods to the crank

they look to be torx if they are star shaped, bunnings should have you sorted for the tools that's where i got my torx screwdriver set, I have seen sockets with them too.

In-Hex sockets I think they call them.
Try a specialised tool store/bunnings etc.

Search on google for torx and in-hex sockets.

just use a double hex socket on it. find the right size that will fit and it should bring it off.

aren't they 12-point hex bolts?

yes, very normal bolts...

12point socket go...


heres a pic to help...

http://www.rd.com/images/tfhimport/2...e002img002.jpg

They look to be a 12mm or 14mm double-hex socket mate.

Try Bunnings, Repco or a Toolshop.

hey reece, just ur regular 7/16 or 11mm double hex socket if they are arp's or maybe even the stocks are the same.

Hahhaha i'm nub i should have known this.

I got full sydchrome sockets. crap load of them and i was thinking on the way home that the bolt is just Double hex not single hex like all other bolts. Which all sidechrome, snap on etc brands do double hex for there sockets.

Tested it and realised its a 11mm socket and yup i felt like a douche after.

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Originally Posted by B18cEG

hey reece, just ur regular 7/16 or 11mm double hex socket if they are arp's or maybe even the stocks are the same.

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hehehe felt like an idiot after i realised that my sockets are double hex and the bolt is just double hex. Never really see double hex that much so when you see so many teeth you start to get scared and confused

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Originally Posted by FastFwd

hehehe felt like an idiot after i realised that my sockets are double hex and the bolt is just double hex. Never really see double hex that much so when you see so many teeth you start to get scared and confused

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hahaha all good man

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...IMGP3348-1.jpg

Ok so im at this point and ive removal all the bolts in red circles plus a few undernieth and ive just left the bolts on the main engine mount and one on the rear mount. Im unsure if i just unbolt it all and slide it out will the inner cv joints come out? or do i have to remove the inner cv joint boots etc?

I've done this once before but ive completely forgotten.

Wat are you doing to ur motor dude??? when i removed my gearbox i firstly removed the drivers side shaft completely but left the passanger one in, just popping it out of the gearbox plus im pretty sure ur gonna need to unbolt the halfshaft or its not gonna tilt to let u remove the box.

Goodluck

starter motor has 2 bolts from memory, you;ll need to support the engine with jack and wood so it will not damage the sump, drain the box, remove cv, and it'll take some force to remove it, you'll most likely need a pry bar or some form of wedging point and a breaker bar.
also the top mount connecting to the g/box needs to be undone as well

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Originally Posted by shadou

also the top mount connecting to the g/box needs to be undone as well

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No really lol, jokes. if it makes it easier for u just remove the cables attatched to the starter and leave it on the box, but careful cos the main feed is unfused battery.

wasn't there a diy thread on this ? might wanna look into those shift linkages as well in case you haven't done anything with them

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Originally Posted by shadou

wasn't there a diy thread on this ? might wanna look into those shift linkages as well in case you haven't done anything with them

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true that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by B18cEG

Wat are you doing to ur motor dude??? when i removed my gearbox i firstly removed the drivers side shaft completely but left the passanger one in, just popping it out of the gearbox plus im pretty sure ur gonna need to unbolt the halfshaft or its not gonna tilt to let u remove the box.

Goodluck

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http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...=111167&page=3

replacing rings, and doing a bunch of other stuff at the same time

do you have a mate or mech friend that can do this stuff for you ? because there is LOTS you can forget about or leave alittle loose etc , that can have dire consequences to your ride or even life. Take care use a helms manual or onine manual ATLEAST

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

do you have a mate or mech friend that can do this stuff for you ? because there is LOTS you can forget about or leave alittle loose etc , that can have dire consequences to your ride or even life. Take care use a helms manual or onine manual ATLEAST

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Nah i have done all this before twice on my honda actually but ive never cracked the motor appart myself. Usually only pull the complete motor out and remove the gearbox etc from there. But i have done this on a few other cars. I have several years of experience with repairing/rebuilding motorbikes. They are alot different but the basic concept of a engine is the same.

Ok do ive pretty much removed everything needed and im about to put the jack on it and unbolt the mounts but i cant get the shift linkage off?

I remember the last time i did this i ruined it and had to buy a new one is there any special way?

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/IMGP3391.jpg

8mm punch + hammer usually works, but I find it easier to just remove it from the shifter end =]

Ok do ive pretty much removed everything needed and im about to put the jack on it and unbolt the mounts but i cant get the shift linkage off?

I remember the last time i did this i ruined it and had to buy a new one is there any special way?

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/IMGP3391.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NZ_EK9

8mm punch + hammer usually works, but I find it easier to just remove it from the shifter end =]

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Agreed, just need the right sized punch. If not removing the entire shift linkage along with the gearbox might be an easier option.

Cheers guys, I'll give that a go.

just remove fromt he shifter end and do it away from the car where u can access
from all angles if it makes it any easier...

i recently did this too... that the way i removed it... used a 8mm bolt...:thumbsup::thumbsup:
plenty of those about...

I'm stuck hey, i got the box loose and its wobbling about everywhere but it just wont wiggle out. I thought they were only 40kg feels much heavier this time. I think i maybe need to get a winch or an engine hoist.

My uncles got one of those old school engine cranes like off Greese when there pulling the engine out from the roof and you pull down on a chain and it lifts up. He said he doesnt use it so i could keep it....gonna grab that off him tomorrow and give that a go instead

gearbox should pull straight out best thing to do would be

at the point ur at with the mounts removed, get a crane onto the motor, lower the motor down on the gearbox side. and slide it out straight... having the
secondary shaft still on the motor may make it awkward to manouvre the
gearbox... (up to you whether you remove it)

the gearbox on a B16A would roughly be 35 to 45kg its a odd shape to carry lol
so its hard to judge without giving it a weigh...


consider lifting the motor box and all out???? thats how i did it + dropping it back in...

Well if i get this crane tomorrow i might just remove the whole motor out considering the the block is pretty much disconnected becides the two right hand mounts. I might just take it all out and put the motor back together with it out of the car and then chuck it all back in at once. Only problem is i dont have a motor stand to work on the thing so it could make things a little difficult unless i leave it on the crane and just lift it up when i need to work under it.

Well if i get this crane tomorrow i might just remove the whole motor out considering the the block is pretty much disconnected becides the two right hand mounts. I might just take it all out and put the motor back together with it out of the car and then chuck it all back in at once. Only problem is i dont have a motor stand to work on the thing so it could make things a little difficult unless i leave it on the crane and just lift it up when i need to work under it.

If you don't know how the head bolts onto the block I really would not be considering replacing the rings yourself. It really is a major job which shouldn't be attempted unless you have engine building skills.

yea I second that, I've done it before and it's a pain in the ass, a lot of pieces required to be taken off, marked and kept safe, head needs to be kept clean from dust/dirt/ect.
But if you're up for it best to get a manual, great learning experience just don't forget to torque everything and anything back.

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Originally Posted by civic65

If you don't know how the head bolts onto the block I really would not be considering replacing the rings yourself. It really is a major job which shouldn't be attempted unless you have engine building skills.

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Watch me dude! :)

sorry but the learning process has to start somewhere and i have confidence. I wouldnt be doing it if i thought i couldnt do it plus its the only thing i havent done on my car so its about time i learn. Thats the first reason.

Second is that 75% of the time i give my car to a mechanic, something else fails and nobody knows my car better than me. I've lost over 10g worth in damages from mechanics. Eg Dropped my car off a hoist, fitted the new jdm b16a and forgot to fill it up with oil and blown the motor on the way home, ripped bumpers off trying to work on it. Its endless...

Have you done a job like this before?

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Originally Posted by shadou

yea I second that, I've done it before and it's a pain in the ass, a lot of pieces required to be taken off, marked and kept safe, head needs to be kept clean from dust/dirt/ect.
But if you're up for it best to get a manual, great learning experience just don't forget to torque everything and anything back.

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The torque settings i will leave upto my uncle to give me the info as he owns a engine rebuilding shop and its something i will need his help for. I have cleaned and catalogued everything and put bolts and bits in glad bags and labelled them so i dont get lost along the way.

I got my build thread here i you wanna look at my progess.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111167

not really my internet is capped atm, well go for it then, it seems even if you do a mistake you have someone close and reliable to help piece together the puzzle.
Just mark everything will be my advice, dig in have fun, learn lots.

Yeah likewise I wasn't being critical just didn't want to see you get into trouble with it. Good luck.

most recent threads merged. kep all ya queries in one area instead of flooding with stuff !