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Hi all,
I've got an issue that kinda came just recently..
I had my car fixed up due to gearbox/transmission issues however ever since I got it back the engine light has started to switch on.
Before I took the car to the mechs this never happened, but now when the car is running usual the light turns on ?
Would this be something wrong with the wiring/sensors or is there something wrong with the engine (which I highly doubt) ?
Get the check engine light (CEL) code read and it will tell you exactly what the problem is.
CEL code ? Uhm.. how ?
I was thinking of getting it serviced to have them double check everything =\
Servicing won't solve the problem. Get your mechanic to read the CEL code. They do this using an OBD2 reader device. That will give you a CEL code and you can cross reference it to the problem here: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=978933Quote:
Originally Posted by WuackR
That tells you exactly what is causing the engine light to come on, so that you can get the mechanic to check on that part to see if it has been left unplugged or if it is faulty.
^ but that will cost you.
75.00 per scan at most mech's, just to SEE what the issue is, without doing anything about it. I guess the scanning machine costs a lot of money, so they pass that on to you.
do THIS:
http://www.k-series.com/tech_document.php?id=37
It takes the better part of 10 seconds, will tell you what is wrong, and is free (except for the paper clip)
Follow the photo, including which way the port sits, and you're set.
Too easy.
Usually after transmission work, it is an Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor at fault.
My sisters ABS light is hard on in the EK Civic. Just wanting to know, so once you have fixed the issue, will the CEL/ABS light turn off? Or do you need to get the ECU's memory cleared? Or will disconnecting the ECU, or unplugging the Battery be a sufficent way of resetting the ECU?
If you pop out the fuse in the engine bay fuse box for the ecu (there is a picture on the lid that looks like a check engine light)
Wait 10 seconds, back in.
It will clear the codes, however if the problem remains, it will come back on in a minute!
Sweet. I'll see if I can get it checked myself, if not I'll just take it to Hanny's and let them do it..
Depends on the mech. If it is the mech that he used to repair his transmission, then he should ask them to read it for free. It doesn't cost a lot of money. You can get an OBDII scanner for $80 shipped on ebay from an Aussie seller. ExampleQuote:
Originally Posted by GEG
Good info there. :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by GEG
Thanks Aaronng ! Do you know if these are sold at Supercheap/Autobarn or anything like that ??
Im thinking i might have trouble doing it myself. lol =\
Maybe, maybe not. Go and check I reckon. But that paper clip trick is good too. Only costs you a paper clip if you stick it in the correct holes.Quote:
Originally Posted by WuackR
Alrighty..
Ill have it checked when I get home and come back if I have stuffed up or anything =P
Thanks again !
Try not to stuff it up. Having the clip in the wrong holes can cause a short and damage your ECU! Get it correct the first time.Quote:
Originally Posted by WuackR
Ok, came back with the results LONG LONG LONG LONG SHORT (PAUSE) - then same pattern again...
I've checked both links you guys posted on the previous page and found its either..
41 - Primary oxygen sensor heater
41 - Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) No Activity Detected / Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Signal Stuck Lean
41 - Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction
41 - Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater System Malfunction
Umm, are they pretty much the same ? Me thinks I have no heater for winter =(
Oops, forgot to add..
To have this fixed (and to make CEL stop flashing), is there a DIY for this ?? or must I bring it back to the mech's and have them fix it ?
41 is the common code for DC5's and EP3's after transmission work, Indy from IS Motor Racing told me that Honda advised him it is an issue with the chassis design. The vibrations of removing the header go through the gearbox and break the sensor, or something to that effect.
What it means is the sensor is broken. It's not cheap, about 300-350$, but i have driven around before with a primary sensor out, and didn't notice a difference. There is still a sensor after the catalytic converter, which is monitoring the air to fuel ratio, so you shouldn't be running rich or lean. Fuel consumption shouldn't change too much if anything. If it doesn't bother you, i say leave it.
Otherwise, pickup a new sensor from Honda, and get someone to help you plug it in under the car.
Ahhh I gets, i gets..
So it pretty doesn't affect the car's ability to move whatsoever ? Just a broken sensor pretty much aye ?
In the long run, will it only get worse ?
Well it's already broken, so it can't really get worse!
In terms of driveability, it wont affect anything, so don't be scared to take it out on the road. All the sensor does is monitor the air fuel ratio and adjust the computer, but there is another sensor assisting (secondary sensor) so it's not like all hope is lost.
I'm sure it is there for a reason, so maybe you'll lose some economy, but i wouldn't say it's an urgent fix really, if you can live with it.
I see..
I'll probably bring it up to get it fixed when I get it serviced soon.. but yes, thanks for the help also !
So to clarify things, it's the 'Air Fuel Sensor' that's broken aye ?
Yep, PRIMARY air fuel sensor
:)
Sweeett !
Thanks mang ! :)
Good replies champ. One thing though, the secondary O2 sensor on a DC5 is only to check catalytic converter functionality and doesn't provide any sort of lean/rich feedback to the ECU. So it won't help with the primary busted. The ECU will default to open loop operation which will result in pretty rich A/F ratios as you mention in cruise and light throttle, bad for fuel economy but probably won't hurt the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by GEG
^^ thank you for that, i can now fill in the blanks in the bits and pieces i knew!
:)
Check if the primary O2 sensor wire is broken at the sensor itself. Also check if they have clipped it back in, If you follow the wire, you will see a clip that is mounted on the a bracket just off the transmission. Sometimes they forget to clip that back on.
One problem with the clip method to read the CEL, now you know where the fault is, but you don't know if the sensor is busted, whether the wire snapped or if it has been left unplugged. The OBDII reader would tell you which of the four code 41 issues you have.
The problem is probably one of the three below:
41 - Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) No Activity Detected / Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Signal Stuck Lean
41 - Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction
41 - Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater System Malfunction
The first means it is unplugged or the power supply wire or signal return wire has snapped. The 2nd means either it is unplugged or the wire that sends power to heat the sensor has snapped. The 3rd probably means the actual wire is not getting any power, placing the problem further upstream.
Question, where abouts is the O2 sensor located ? :S
If none of that works, check your grounding points! :P just incase y'know? I've had various CEL issues related to a grounding point not being connected.
found this thread very useful in terms of the ghetto 4 and 9 pin trick in reading the codes, shows im also throwing a code 41 :(
Quote:
Originally Posted by WuackR
the O2 plugs into the header as shown on my car below. its that plug that goes into the header theres x2 of em
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...e-01/Toda2.jpg
OMG ! Thanks BRO ! VERRRYYY HELPFUL !!
+1 :)