06 Euro Sport Beginners advice

Hey guys just bought a Euro Sport 06 Auto with 60k on the clock.

I traded in my 03 Renault Laguna for this car in the hope that the service manager at the dealership doesn't recognise my voice!

Now I love the handling in the Euro but I really miss the the V6 engine, probably the only thing in the car that worked properly.....
I have been reading the forums and I was wondering what else could be done to the car to give a little bit more grunt without putting on air intakes and exhausts because I'm not brave enough to do those things yet.

Can say my Honda dealer tweak anything in the engine\computer to give a bit more torque\power?

I have very little knowledge of modifying cars and that sort of thing, getting the stereo replaced in my Renault caused so many problems that I never tried to replace anything else!

Cheers in advance :)

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Originally Posted by aroy7

Can say my Honda dealer tweak anything in the engine\computer to give a bit more torque\power?

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Yes, but no, not from Honda dealer

You can have it re-flashed but it'll cost you something like $1500 and it'll be a moot point if you don't give it the Intake/Header/Exhaust treatment.

It doesn't mean you can't do anything, you CAN do the following, but it probably makes bugger all difference:
* Replace air filter to a K&N
* Reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 10 min.
* Change the engine oil to a full synthetic and thinner oil, something like 5w-30 or 0w-40
* Add a Voltage Stablizer and ground wire kit ( I found it making my idle smoother)
* Give the fuel injection system a clean (or run BP ultimate for 2 mth...)

For the K24 to shine you really need to give it at least a I/H/E treatment, at least the intake.... and as with all honda engine's, low end power/torque is never our strong suit...

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

Yes, but no, not from Honda dealer

You can have it re-flashed but it'll cost you something like $1500 and it'll be a moot point if you don't give it the Intake/Header/Exhaust treatment.

It doesn't mean you can't do anything, you CAN do the following, but it probably makes bugger all difference:
* Replace air filter to a K&N
* Reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 10 min.
* Change the engine oil to a full synthetic and thinner oil, something like 5w-30 or 0w-40
* Add a Voltage Stablizer and ground wire kit ( I found it making my idle smoother)
* Give the fuel injection system a clean (or run BP ultimate for 2 mth...)

For the K24 to shine you really need to give it at least a I/H/E treatment, at least the intake.... and as with all honda engine's, low end power/torque is never our strong suit...

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Thanks for the reply, I will try those things one by one, also which one of the Intake/Header would result in the largest difference in power\torque, and do they make the car sound like a, and I apologise for the slang, 'rice burner'

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aroy7

Thanks for the reply, I will try those things one by one, also which one of the Intake/Header would result in the largest difference in power\torque, and do they make the car sound like a, and I apologise for the slang, 'rice burner'

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Intake/header by itself won't make much difference, combined they make more power than each on their own combined... If that makes sense.

If you had to start somewhere then I'd suggest intake first, since ts usually easier to do and cost less, and you are usually saving something like 2 kg on the front from taking out the resonator. But if you are looking for lower to mid range gains, I recommand a modified airbox style of intake, comptech, gruppe-m and mugen makes them. I'd avoid the Long tube CAI (eg: injen) because you'd lose some power/torque At lower rpm's.

The rice burner sound is mostly from the exhaust/muffler. So no one outside will be able to tell if you don't install a pair of fart cannons


Ps: I'm still searching for a (cost effective) way to lower the VTEC engagement point of te CL9 k24a3... The redline is like 6800-7000 rpm.. So I'm not even sure the vtec did anything since ivtec engages at 6000rpm. Iirc the CU2 which runs k24z3 the vtec engagement is about 1000 rpm lower on average... Which sounds more useful
To me

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aroy7

Thanks for the reply, I will try those things one by one, also which one of the Intake/Header would result in the largest difference in power\torque, and do they make the car sound like a, and I apologise for the slang, 'rice burner'

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Header will.Then intake then cat back in that order.

[QUOTE=Fredoops;2992445Ps: I'm still searching for a (cost effective) way to lower the VTEC engagement point of te CL9 k24a3... The redline is like 6800-7000 rpm.. So I'm not even sure the vtec did anything since ivtec engages at 6000rpm. Iirc the CU2 which runs k24z3 the vtec engagement is about 1000 rpm lower on average... Which sounds more useful
To me[/QUOTE]
Get a Haltech Interceptor.I've got Comptech Icebox and header as well.Adrian from Toda tuned mine.My vtec crossover is now 5300RPM.

intake, headers, exhaust, hondata ECU reflash .. +~60hp atw from what i have heard, which is a huge gain for an N/A

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

Intake/header by itself won't make much difference, combined they make more power than each on their own combined... If that makes sense.

If you had to start somewhere then I'd suggest intake first, since ts usually easier to do and cost less, and you are usually saving something like 2 kg on the front from taking out the resonator. But if you are looking for lower to mid range gains, I recommand a modified airbox style of intake, comptech, gruppe-m and mugen makes them. I'd avoid the Long tube CAI (eg: injen) because you'd lose some power/torque At lower rpm's.

The rice burner sound is mostly from the exhaust/muffler. So no one outside will be able to tell if you don't install a pair of fart cannons


Ps: I'm still searching for a (cost effective) way to lower the VTEC engagement point of te CL9 k24a3... The redline is like 6800-7000 rpm.. So I'm not even sure the vtec did anything since ivtec engages at 6000rpm. Iirc the CU2 which runs k24z3 the vtec engagement is about 1000 rpm lower on average... Which sounds more useful
To me

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What effect does this have on the Euro? I have been reading up on this and I keep seeing that it sounds better, is that true?

And thanks for all the help guys! I'm currently having the car detailed and serviced, I'll post a couple of pics when I get it back mid week :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aroy7

What effect does this have on the Euro? I have been reading up on this and I keep seeing that it sounds better, is that true?

And thanks for all the help guys! I'm currently having the car detailed and serviced, I'll post a couple of pics when I get it back mid week :)

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Take out resonator makes it sound more aggressive... But IMO if you are taking the effort to remove resonator, might as well install a CAI, I'd recommend ct engineering icebox, $275shipped to your door from USA. And it keeps th car looking stock.

If you are going the I/H/E and Hondata reflash you will be looking at a few thousand dollars... Not worth it if you just want a bit more grunt IMO.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

Ps: I'm still searching for a (cost effective) way to lower the VTEC engagement point of te CL9 k24a3... The redline is like 6800-7000 rpm.. So I'm not even sure the vtec did anything since ivtec engages at 6000rpm. Iirc the CU2 which runs k24z3 the vtec engagement is about 1000 rpm lower on average... Which sounds more useful
To me

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Without I/H/E and other supporting mods, there is not much point in lowering the vtec point.

The CU2 has a lower vtec point because it has 2-lobe vtec camshaft instead of 3-lobe like the CL9. Hence at the vtec point, it is a smooth transition to extend the torque curve, unlike the CL9 where it gets a tiny bump.

http://sohc.vtec.net/article_files/7...s06TSX_6MT.gif

putting dinner plate 20's on it will give you at least 40 more hp.

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Originally Posted by threesix

putting dinner plate 20's on it will give you at least 40 more hp.

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And in the end makes your car feel like they lost 80hp. :p

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Without I/H/E and other supporting mods, there is not much point in lowering the vtec point.

The CU2 has a lower vtec point because it has 2-lobe vtec camshaft instead of 3-lobe like the CL9. Hence at the vtec point, it is a smooth transition to extend the torque curve, unlike the CL9 where it gets a tiny bump.

http://sohc.vtec.net/article_files/7...s06TSX_6MT.gif

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Isn't USDM Acura TSX's uses different sort of camshaft head thingy than the Honda Euro's?

Don't mess around with intake or exhaust. If you want a bit more push down low in all gears then get a lighter flywheel. The stock K24a3 one is very heavy (around 9kg)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

Isn't USDM Acura TSX's uses different sort of camshaft head thingy than the Honda Euro's?

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The 06+ TSX has a considerably revised K24. Different camshafts, oversized inlet valves. Bigger throttle body and intake manifold. Balanced crank and revised exhaust

Quote:

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Originally Posted by integral90

Don't mess around with intake or exhaust. If you want a bit more push down low in all gears then get a lighter flywheel. The stock K24a3 one is very heavy (around 9kg)

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Honda auto granny's got a flywheel? Really?

My bad - didn't see the auto part.

Depending on which intake you do, you might sacrafice some low end torque for top end power. The best thing to do would be a smaller-collector sports header with a high-flow cat. The easiest way to get some straight line speed without actually touching the engine is to do lighter wheels. If you can save 1kg on each wheel it's equivalent to removing around 30kg of unsprung weight.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

Isn't USDM Acura TSX's uses different sort of camshaft head thingy than the Honda Euro's?

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Same i-VTEC system, just different camshaft profiles and different port size for the later model CL9. The CU2 has the same everything except ECU.

Never mind, mis-read again :P