DC5 v TypeR- Acceleration, not speed.

Hi all.
Wow its been years since ive been here. Last time I had a 3G accord...... 2005?
Anyway, I made a huge mistake. I bought a non Honda (Hyundai i30 diesel), and now that its almost sold (paperwork on Monday), its back into a decent car :P

Ive pretty much decided on the DC5. And my options are thus.

120k km DC5 Base - $9.5k
120k km DC5 Luxury - $10.5K
155k km DC5 TypeR - $12k


Now, before the type R bandwagon leap on me, Yes. Im in love with the recaros, the lower stance, and the stock body kit. The extra power is tempting.

HOWEVER!
I do not track my car. (the dream is there, the money is not)
Running costs do bother me as I like to drive distance (I do use 95ron anywho)
I'm 100% about acceleration. I do NOT speed.

I WONT be breaching 120kmph interstate
I WILL be accelerating off the lights and out of on-road corners. (unlikely LSD needed speeds)


What I wondered, was, how the models compare to each other in acceleration. Not top speed?



How about with a reflash?
http://www.hondata.com/reflash_rsx_base.html
On paper, the base with a reflash should be faster until 'vtec kicks in yo', correct?

Even without the reflash, the base has more torque sooner.

Oppinions?



Scythe.

if you can get a dc5r for 12k i'd jump on it

seriously that is a bargain

but if you want acceleration go turbo

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Originally Posted by l__i__l

if you can get a dc5r for 12k i'd jump on it

seriously that is a bargain

but if you want acceleration go turbo

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but then again that Type R might be trashed compared to the base model. 12K is way too cheap for a Type R.
Honestly if you dont care about the stuff you mentioned then id go with the base model. Recaros, yes is comfortable but now and then i prefer normal non bucket seats over it.
Also i think the suspension in the Type R is more stiff than base model? Not too sure on that one though.

My friend has a DC5 luxury or a base model cant recall. His happy with it. Automatic and does its job. He drives 30km to work in Sydney. His happy cause his content with it being a nugget and for that purpose only, he knows pretty much anything on the road would chop him.

With those KM's thats not cheap for a typeR
Ive seen 4 go through various sites for that price in the last 6 months, its about right, certainly not expensive.

Has anyone here raced a DC5 and a DC5r off the lights?
Is my suspicion right that the type R wouldnt start leading significantly (or may even lose a little) untill you breached, say, 70kmph?

The paper says that I'm correct, the only thing I havent factored in is gear ratios.

Looking at facts:

DC5r (if optioned with AC etc) and a DC5 are the same weight.

Untill VTEC kicks in, the engines are identical (same CC, same cam ratios i believe, both 16v 2L)

And if the Base is flashed, its actually BETTER below vtec cams engaging on the DC5r




If im honest with myself. I want the typeR.
But Gear changing in the city can be tiring, and they're closer ratio.
It also requires 95+ (so 98 really), so running it more expensive.
It has potential gear2 and 3 issues.....
BUT ITS JUST SO ****ING NICE!

Reality is though, if street performance is only minorly different, then why would i spend the extra? I wont be tracking I dont think.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Master_Scythe

With those KM's thats not cheap for a typeR
Ive seen 4 go through various sites for that price in the last 6 months, its about right, certainly not expensive.

Has anyone here raced a DC5 and a DC5r off the lights?
Is my suspicion right that the type R wouldnt start leading significantly (or may even lose a little) untill you breached, say, 70kmph?

The paper says that I'm correct, the only thing I havent factored in is gear ratios.

Looking at facts:

DC5r (if optioned with AC etc) and a DC5 are the same weight.

Untill VTEC kicks in, the engines are identical (same CC, same cam ratios i believe, both 16v 2L)

And if the Base is flashed, its actually BETTER below vtec cams engaging on the DC5r




If im honest with myself. I want the typeR.
But Gear changing in the city can be tiring, and they're closer ratio.
It also requires 95+ (so 98 really), so running it more expensive.
It has potential gear2 and 3 issues.....
BUT ITS JUST SO ****ING NICE!

Reality is though, if street performance is only minorly different, then why would i spend the extra? I wont be tracking I dont think.

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Alright just going to be honest, your wrong with everything..

12k for dc5r, is farking cheap.. its gonna be raped.. but cheap. dc5r's are going for atleast 15k in todays market.

Base dc5 vs dc5r off the lights is pretty obvious is it not....? dc5r will absolutely rape it.. I don't believe how you would think the base model would have a chance..

Engines in the base dc5 and dc5r are different, dc5r is a k20a while the base dc5 is still a k20 but a different specification.. (I drive a dc2r not a dc5r thats why I don't know exactly)

I don't understand how gear changing can be tiring unless your a shit driver or just mega lazy! (just being honest so don't flame me boyzz) its fairly simple even during traffic.. Closer ratio makes everyday driving easier btw lol.

If your worried about the cost of running 98 to 95 a type R isn't for you..

Where did you get your information saying it has possible 2nd a 3rd gear issues? and what did you mean by that?

Street performance isn't minorly different its hugely.. I don't track my dc2r yet I would of never bought a dc2 gsi, because lets be honest.. they are a piece of shit.

By the sounds of things "looking at the facts".. you haven't even test driven these cars.. so....

Go test drive a dc5 base and dc5r and see which one suits your needs more and which one is more enjoyable.. basically everyone on this forum is going to tell you to get the dc5r..

yalla byee

/ready to get flamed

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Originally Posted by RSKEbaby

Alright just going to be honest, your wrong with everything..

12k for dc5r, is farking cheap.. its gonna be raped.. but cheap. dc5r's are going for atleast 15k in todays market.

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Well they're commonly that price for 'cheap' then. Since about a month ago ive seen TypeS going about $14-16k with high K's. As of about a month ago im unemployed (contract ended) so i'm trolling the for sale sites a LOT.
$12K is low, but not 'OMFG', as average i've seen is about $13-15k

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Base dc5 vs dc5r off the lights is pretty obvious is it not....? dc5r will absolutely rape it.. I don't believe how you would think the base model would have a chance..

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I think i explained that. The engines are different, I'm aware, but the long runners give the base BETTER low down torque. 'Jumping to 60kmph from stop' could easily be a possibility, its why im asking.

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Engines in the base dc5 and dc5r are different, dc5r is a k20a while the base dc5 is still a k20 but a different specification.. (I drive a dc2r not a dc5r thats why I don't know exactly)

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Im aware, its economy vtec with a <2200rpm 12 valve mode. Catch is, the ECU jumps instantly to 16valve if you floor it hard.
While off VTEC, the base and R ave the same cam profiles (correct me if i'm wrong here?) and both are 1998cc, with 16 valves.

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I don't understand how gear changing can be tiring unless your a shit driver or just mega lazy! (just being honest so don't flame me boyzz) its fairly simple even during traffic.. Closer ratio makes everyday driving easier btw lol.

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more gears, with closer ratios makes it easier? How so? You're shifting more. In stop start traffic for up to 4 hours a day, this can get tiring. Ive never owned a 6speed though; I'm honestly open to be corrected here. Please expain :)

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If your worried about the cost of running 98 to 95 a type R isn't for you..

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Yeah, thats what i'm thinking. But the catch is I have money. The cost isnt a challenge, its just something to avoid if the 'street performance' is going to be comparable.

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Where did you get your information saying it has possible 2nd a 3rd gear issues? and what did you mean by that?

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The USA and UK i believe have had recalls. 2nd gear develops a crunch when shifting at high RPM and 3rd gear has occasional disengaging problems. Clearly not on all of them, but its not 'rare' by any sense. Google for it and you'll see.

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Street performance isn't minorly different its hugely..

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But.... I thought you owned a DC2, not 5? You have alot of experience in the 5's?

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By the sounds of things "looking at the facts".. you haven't even test driven these cars.. so....

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This is correct. I have inspected the DC5 base, but unfortunately no one could take me for a test drive (damn dealers) so i'l be doing that monday. However I wont find a DC5r to test. none in this state for sale it seems.

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basically everyone on this forum is going to tell you to get the dc5r..

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Last time i visited here (admittedly, 5+ years ago) this was a very intelligent group of people, willing to discuss things. I hope everyone isnt just going to say 'get the R, the rest are crap' without evidience.

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/ready to get flamed

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Nope :) I dont flame. I'm always calm, you're offering ME help, and its all appeciated; but unless you have extensive DC5 experience, (in which case, i yield and appologise), the facts ON PAPER say the base would be better off the mark, with the R catching up VERY quickly, once vtec kicks in.

But paper can be deceiving. Hence this thread :D

RSKEbaby is full of shit. I'd disregard almost everything he said. Having said that, it's true that you won't get a very good example of a Type R for the price you stated.

Personally, from what you say about your driving habits, I don't see why you'd NEED more than the performance that's delivered by the base model. It's no slouch. Will you get the value out of that Type R badge to make up for the extra cost and inconvenience of owning one? In my opinion, if you don't intend to modify or track the car, you probably don't need a Type R. It will be wasted within the speed limits.

Honestly.. The dc5r is better is every way.

EP3R if you want something standard that will jump off the line quickly. Lightweight flywheel does wonders for low end throttle response.

Just a thought


Dc5r has a better gearbox than base - ratios and LSD (plus lighter flywheel?) so in all situations and speeds it will have faster acceleration. Gearing makes a car go.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RSKEbaby

Alright just going to be honest, your wrong with everything..

12k for dc5r, is farking cheap.. its gonna be raped.. but cheap. dc5r's are going for atleast 15k in todays market.

Base dc5 vs dc5r off the lights is pretty obvious is it not....? dc5r will absolutely rape it.. I don't believe how you would think the base model would have a chance..

Engines in the base dc5 and dc5r are different, dc5r is a k20a while the base dc5 is still a k20 but a different specification.. (I drive a dc2r not a dc5r thats why I don't know exactly)

I don't understand how gear changing can be tiring unless your a shit driver or just mega lazy! (just being honest so don't flame me boyzz) its fairly simple even during traffic.. Closer ratio makes everyday driving easier btw lol.

If your worried about the cost of running 98 to 95 a type R isn't for you..

Where did you get your information saying it has possible 2nd a 3rd gear issues? and what did you mean by that?

Street performance isn't minorly different its hugely.. I don't track my dc2r yet I would of never bought a dc2 gsi, because lets be honest.. they are a piece of shit.

By the sounds of things "looking at the facts".. you haven't even test driven these cars.. so....

Go test drive a dc5 base and dc5r and see which one suits your needs more and which one is more enjoyable.. basically everyone on this forum is going to tell you to get the dc5r..

yalla byee

/ready to get flamed

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oh hellllllllllll nawwww watch all the people that own the piece of shit come @ you now. the only reason why they bought those piece of shit is because they couldn't afford a type r.

im ready to get flamed too :)

Stock
For
Stock. Dc5r. But what kevin said is a very valud point.. Ep3r.. More
Power, lightergywheel... Best for ur requirement of accerlarationneeds? However its just accerlaaration.. So getting away from lights as fast as possible is a factor fOr u? Op seems likr he is stuck in yhose car racIng games where u can choose a car that is catergorised based on top speed, accerlaration and handling
Lol

whats the shifting like in the EP3R anyways? Looks like its in a awkward spot?

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Originally Posted by r3ckless

Stock
For
Stock. Dc5r. But what kevin said is a very valud point.. Ep3r.. More
Power, lightergywheel... Best for ur requirement of accerlarationneeds? However its just accerlaaration.. So getting away from lights as fast as possible is a factor fOr u? Op seems likr he is stuck in yhose car racIng games where u can choose a car that is catergorised based on top speed, accerlaration and handling
Lol

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Haha, possibly.
Reguardles of what I go, it'll be my 'most powerful cat yet' so i'm sure i'll be happy.

And yeah, my driving style is quite particular. The locations I drive and live have a billion more times you need to 'traffic weave' or get in front of the pack at the lights for any chance of open road.

Thats why acceleration is important.

Hmm,I suppose at that price, if I just got the R, running costs arent that big of a deal since even if i was 'cheap' (which i probably wouldnt do) the knock sensor would just retard the timing.

oh just thought of the insurance factor... I should probably check that up too.

Thanks for everyones help so far.

For 12k you will definitely not get an clean example R but if your happy with that then thats all good,
but personally i haven't seen much if not any dc5r's go for anything below 15k unless they're modded so wrong to the point of no return or its just a base trying to pass off as a R.

As for the performance differences having owned many hondas incl the dc5r there is no way the base has any chance against the type R, lets face it the k20a3 compared to audm k20a2 or jdm k20 is pretty much like a 30-40kw difference if i recall correctly? not to mention the type R are built to be performance cars where the base/luxury is more of a stylist family car with no intention of it's target market actually requiring/caring of the power differences and if you really did i think honda would've assumed/recommended you would get the R lol

Test drive both and you will understand but judging from your posts you seem more suited for the base/luxury as personally i don't think there's much point these days people who get R's unless you get a clean example R (but be prepared to pay top dollar) and you can actually baby it properly or else it's just going to become one for the 12k resales as you've stated if not lower as it will depreciate heavily over the years of your ownership if it's not babied and seem like an enthusiast's :)

i gather that you don't race - maybe look at what has more midrange torque?

oh and i'd recommend the R too - think of the resale value afterward and the idea of owning something more special

Perdonally i dtive the type s 4 days a week and during the week i drive my auto camry.. 3.0L 3SGT-E or some shit like that... It has more mid range torque.. So much easier to drice fr accerlaatiob.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curtis265

i gather that you don't race - maybe look at what has more midrange torque?

oh and i'd recommend the R too - think of the resale value afterward and the idea of owning something more special

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Thats a good point. Not that I intend to sell, but resale ALWAYS needs to be considered.

and yeah, a certain 'image' comes with owning a TypeR That would be nice. lol.

Im just pestering the bloke now, seeing why its cheap. I did the checks. its not stolen or anything, i'm trying to get what hes used it for, out of him. (aka hes it been track thrashed constantly).

We'll see

Quote:

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Originally Posted by muzukashi

For 12k you will definitely not get an clean example R but if your happy with that then thats all good,
but personally i haven't seen much if not any dc5r's go for anything below 15k unless they're modded so wrong to the point of no return or its just a base trying to pass off as a R.

As for the performance differences having owned many hondas incl the dc5r there is no way the base has any chance against the type R, lets face it the k20a3 compared to audm k20a2 or jdm k20 is pretty much like a 30-40kw difference if i recall correctly? not to mention the type R are built to be performance cars where the base/luxury is more of a stylist family car with no intention of it's target market actually requiring/caring of the power differences and if you really did i think honda would've assumed/recommended you would get the R lol

Test drive both and you will understand but judging from your posts you seem more suited for the base/luxury as personally i don't think there's much point these days people who get R's unless you get a clean example R (but be prepared to pay top dollar) and you can actually baby it properly or else it's just going to become one for the 12k resales as you've stated if not lower as it will depreciate heavily over the years of your ownership if it's not babied and seem like an enthusiast's :)

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Well said.
I think its come to price. I know i managed to bargain the TypeR already, If i can bargain the base below 10k, I may still consider it. But yeah.... If i'm gonna change suspension etc. anyway, why not go the R and leave it stock?
I guess I just worry about whether or not i'm going to 'avoid driving it' when going super long distances due to costs.

Or is the KM\L figures fairly equal assuming I dont stick the boot in?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Indie

RSKEbaby is full of shit. I'd disregard almost everything he said. Having said that, it's true that you won't get a very good example of a Type R for the price you stated.

Personally, from what you say about your driving habits, I don't see why you'd NEED more than the performance that's delivered by the base model. It's no slouch. Will you get the value out of that Type R badge to make up for the extra cost and inconvenience of owning one? In my opinion, if you don't intend to modify or track the car, you probably don't need a Type R. It will be wasted within the speed limits.

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What points have I made that are bullshit, please tell me? ..

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Originally Posted by Master_Scythe

Thats a good point. Not that I intend to sell, but resale ALWAYS needs to be considered.

and yeah, a certain 'image' comes with owning a TypeR That would be nice. lol.

Im just pestering the bloke now, seeing why its cheap. I did the checks. its not stolen or anything, i'm trying to get what hes used it for, out of him. (aka hes it been track thrashed constantly).

We'll see

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Oh and don't forget too.. what you gain on resale value is what you lose on extra insurance and other maintenance costs

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Originally Posted by curtis265

Oh and don't forget too.. what you gain on resale value is what you lose on extra insurance and other maintenance costs

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True.

And I just did an online quote.

3rd party insurance is identical either way, and comprehensive is only $100 difference.
So that hardly matters.

I guess its a matter of test driving the base model and seeing if its 'enough for me' or if I want 'the real thing' ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Master_Scythe

I guess I just worry about whether or not i'm going to 'avoid driving it' when going super long distances due to costs.

Or is the KM\L figures fairly equal assuming I dont stick the boot in?

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I drove my type s about 620km to eastern vic over the weekend (highway driving but very hilly in places) and I only used about 3 quarters of a 50ltr tank lol thought that was awesome. That was 95 ron btw

not 100% related to the thread, but if u choose the dc5 over the type R i rkn u should get luxury over normal dc5. U seem like u dont thrash ur car around every corner and every straight etc. i drive a dc5r now but i remember when i was in high school my dad owned a dc5 luxury and the car was actually very comfortable and it would def be a great car for normal everyday driving/comfort

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Originally Posted by Oz_Striker

I drove my type s about 620km to eastern vic over the weekend (highway driving but very hilly in places) and I only used about 3 quarters of a 50ltr tank lol thought that was awesome. That was 95 ron btw

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Impressive......

It surprises me that even with 6 gears, 6th is not as low as the Base's 5th. Really makes for a bit of a hog when not racing. Ive even watched a few professional japanese racers on youtube who comment on wanting a lower final drive, so its obviously wanted :P

Really my views are:

Base Pros:
- Can use 91 (but will use 95, especially with a reflash)
- Develops Torque sooner
- Cheaper initially
- Cheaper insurance
- Most powerful car ive owned yet, so reguardless should impress me.
- Switches to 12Valve on the freeway, and uses significantly less when cruising

TypeR:
- Recaros
- Significantly more power
- Better body kit\lower
- 'The badge' (yes im one of those people, sorry ><)
- Resale value



If I got the base, i'd be lowering it, and putting a TypeR spoiler on (i love the look) so I have to keep the 'mod costs' in mind too.

Considering whichever one I choose i'll have to fly interstate for; its a shame I cant inspect the vehicles easily.

If the R was a clean example, and 12k, (ive only ever done reflashes before)
Am I right in assuming a Kpro would allow me to tune for lower octane fuel (retard the timing a little), and save a second map for when I want speed\power at the track?

I'm not past admitting i'm still learning some shit here.




EDIT: Yep, turns out the paper didnt lie:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCHUN9WmXxo

Thats exactly what I was looking for.

Base with a kpro tune and minor mods (such as TypeS wheels, it IS a base, read through the comments), vs TypeS with minor mods, and no tune.
basically because the $1k i save on the 'base' would buy me the kpro.

Its obvious in the video the TypeS isnt trying its hardest otherwise it would have caught up quicker IMO, but you can hear the both give it a decent push off the line.

Anyone care to argue with the video?
I dont mean that in a smart arse way, I mean, is there something im missing here?

Thanks for everyones help, been a wonderful discussion thus far :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RSKEbaby

What points have I made that are bullshit, please tell me? ..

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What points have you made at all?

And another for those interested:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCmvmkvnVyE

Turns out those long runners and earlier torque do exactly as i thought untill 3rd gear.

EDIT: and considering its the RSX, so american delivered, it has leather and sunroof in the 'base', so its even heavier than our base too!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Master_Scythe

And another for those interested:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCmvmkvnVyE

Turns out those long runners and earlier torque do exactly as i thought untill 3rd gear.

EDIT: and considering its the RSX, so american delivered, it has leather and sunroof in the 'base', so its even heavier than our base too!

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RSX type S driver didn't launch properly. 15.2s is the time you get in an accord euro.

You don't buy a type R for just threw power. You buy it for the chassis, the lsd, lighter flywheel and much better handling. If these are not important for your usage, then just get the base or luxury DC5. There is no need to justify your choice over the type Rm

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Originally Posted by aaronng

RSX type S driver didn't launch properly. 15.2s is the time you get in an accord euro.

You don't buy a type R for just threw power. You buy it for the chassis, the lsd, lighter flywheel and much better handling. If these are not important for your usage, then just get the base or luxury DC5. There is no need to justify your choice over the type Rm

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Chassis i care about.
LSD I dont, Road offers few corners to safely 'use' it.
Flywheel I do.
Handling I do.

Handling is a customisable thing anyway, so for me thats not an issue. any car can be made to handle well.

Flywheel i can switch.

Chassis is the main thing i'd like. Extra weld points and what not for rigidity, correct?

i find it amazing how some bloke has said that 12k for a DC5R isn't cheap for that many kms?
LOL... Mines almost at 130,000km and if you think i'd sell it for less then 24k, your f*cking dreaming.

That R is going to be problems for you my friend.
Wouldn't bother and yes i know which Type R your refering to.

I'd buy it, part it and make more on top.
Then if you have enough, buy a clean Type R.

Just saying not hating

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Originally Posted by Master_Scythe

Impressive......

It surprises me that even with 6 gears, 6th is not as low as the Base's 5th. Really makes for a bit of a hog when not racing. Ive even watched a few professional japanese racers on youtube who comment on wanting a lower final drive, so its obviously wanted :P

Really my views are:

Base Pros:
- Can use 91 (but will use 95, especially with a reflash)
- Develops Torque sooner
- Cheaper initially
- Cheaper insurance
- Most powerful car ive owned yet, so reguardless should impress me.
- Switches to 12Valve on the freeway, and uses significantly less when cruising

TypeR:
- Recaros
- Significantly more power
- Better body kit\lower
- 'The badge' (yes im one of those people, sorry ><)
- Resale value



If I got the base, i'd be lowering it, and putting a TypeR spoiler on (i love the look) so I have to keep the 'mod costs' in mind too.

Considering whichever one I choose i'll have to fly interstate for; its a shame I cant inspect the vehicles easily.

If the R was a clean example, and 12k, (ive only ever done reflashes before)
Am I right in assuming a Kpro would allow me to tune for lower octane fuel (retard the timing a little), and save a second map for when I want speed\power at the track?

I'm not past admitting i'm still learning some shit here.




EDIT: Yep, turns out the paper didnt lie:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCHUN9WmXxo

Thats exactly what I was looking for.

Base with a kpro tune and minor mods (such as TypeS wheels, it IS a base, read through the comments), vs TypeS with minor mods, and no tune.
basically because the $1k i save on the 'base' would buy me the kpro.

Its obvious in the video the TypeS isnt trying its hardest otherwise it would have caught up quicker IMO, but you can hear the both give it a decent push off the line.

Anyone care to argue with the video?
I dont mean that in a smart arse way, I mean, is there something im missing here?

Thanks for everyones help, been a wonderful discussion thus far :D

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Your comments are irrelevant because your talking about reflashing the ECU on the base model but not talking about doing the same to the DC5R.

You put a Kpro in either car, neck to neck, there will be a marginal difference.
A base model will be forever a base model at the end of the day.
It will always be the watered down DC5R (don't bring the JDM DC5 into this as i will slap you silly :thumbsup:)

if you buy a base model, you buy it generally with the intentions to have an A to B car 9 times outta 10. There are a few, yes a few and one is on this forum who have progressed on with base model and are making something out of it and good on him :honda: :thumbsup:

But if you have the choice and the AMBITION to track your car, a Type R over the Base is always the better way to go because as others have said, better gear box, better mottor, LSD, Recaro's etc

Anyway enough said... won't bother.

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Originally Posted by WATAJK

i find it amazing how some bloke has said that 12k for a DC5R isn't cheap for that many kms?
LOL... Mines almost at 130,000km and if you think i'd sell it for less then 24k, your f*cking dreaming.

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All i said is its low, but not OMFG. Ive seen 3 or 4 go for under $14k recently, it is cheap. But not 'therer has to be something wrong with it' cheap IMO, i saw a NICE one go for 13.9k a month ago on carsguide.
But anyway.

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Your comments are irrelevant because your talking about reflashing the ECU on the base model but not talking about doing the same to the DC5R.

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Its because the base model would leave money to play, base + kpro is still cheaper than the DC5R; if I got the R, the money isnt spare to KPRO it.

You're right im not comparing mod for mod, but I am comparing cost for cost.

I just got back from test driving the base anyway.
As i thought, most powerful car to date that ive driven, and bone stock (and a terrible example too, thrashed to hell). But even so I fell in love.

DC5 (or R, we'll see) for the certain win!

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Originally Posted by r3ckless

Perdonally i dtive the type s 4 days a week and during the week i drive my auto camry.. 3.0L 3SGT-E or some shit like that... It has more mid range torque.. So much easier to drice fr accerlaatiob.

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I agree with r3ckless. driving something with more low end torque day to day is much easier than driving something like a DC5 (not hating on the car). in stop and go traffic it seems to be much easier. but i guess it's personal preference. it would be a luxury to have two cars for different purposes.

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Originally Posted by kt_xD

I agree with r3ckless. driving something with more low end torque day to day is much easier than driving something like a DC5 (not hating on the car). in stop and go traffic it seems to be much easier. but i guess it's personal preference. it would be a luxury to have two cars for different purposes.

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Personally I think thats hondas genious at work again.

Dual length runners? wider cam timing?

These have no advantages other than low end torque. And it works. I drove today in really nasty traffic and it leapt off the mark every time!

While I agree with the general idea that the TypeR is in most ways better, I'm not the only one who has commented on it feeling 'weak' untill vtec.

They were smart enough to design the cars Low and High focused respectively.

I love honda. lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Indie

What points have you made at all?

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Lol dont try and troll me because I stated that the dc2/dc4 gsi is a heap of shit, I didn't mean offense but you are obviously taking it..

Pretty sure most of that comment I wrote was answering the questions that he had, may not of been 100% but atleast helping him out..

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Originally Posted by RSKEbaby

Lol dont try and troll me because I stated that the dc2/dc4 gsi is a heap of shit, I didn't mean offense but you are obviously taking it..

Pretty sure most of that comment I wrote was answering the questions that he had, may not of been 100% but atleast helping him out..

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I couldn't care less about your comments about the GSi. Everything you said, including that comment, was basically bullshit.

Prove how its bullshit and correct me then? ... troll

I wouldn't bother addressing your comments. I've told the OP that I believe that most of what you said was rubbish, and that's all I need to say.

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Originally Posted by RSKEbaby

Prove how its bullshit and correct me then? ... troll

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shes always angry i suggest you leave her alone or else she will never stop trolling you

woo hooo forum fight!

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Originally Posted by curtis265

woo hooo forum fight!

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have you got popcorns?

Sorry, just LOLed, 12k for a type r.......dont think u can even get a dc2r with that price......12k will get a a dc5 base good cond, 15k will get u shit cond dc5r, ur looking 16k+ for a decent one, and i dont see how dc5 vs dc5r is possible, one has strong engine/gearbox full stop. please go find a dc5r at the lights, and race it, see where u are....and 0-60 back to 0......no chance mate, dc5r has bigger brakes fullstop. gotta stop dreaming man, if u gona be serious, save a bit more get a dc5r/ep3r if u were to cheap out and have some fun go get the dc2 vtir (which is in ur budget IN REALITY) sorry dont want to be a jerk here, but thats all i gotta say!

Untill VTEC kicks in, the engines are identical (same CC, same cam ratios i believe, both 16v 2L)

And if the Base is flashed, its actually BETTER below vtec cams engaging on the DC5r



PS. go check ur wiki for torque figure for both of these, and u'll know the things u said, is not valid

Theres type r's for that cheap nowadays
dc5 12k cash

dc2 12'500

riced out dc2 9300

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Originally Posted by jeffreymui

Untill VTEC kicks in, the engines are identical (same CC, same cam ratios i believe, both 16v 2L)

And if the Base is flashed, its actually BETTER below vtec cams engaging on the DC5r




PS. go check ur wiki for torque figure for both of these, and u'll know the things u said, is not valid

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^ What this man said.

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Originally Posted by SuperJDM.

shes always angry i suggest you leave her alone or else she will never stop trolling you

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Awwwwwk ):

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Originally Posted by SuperJDM.

shes always angry i suggest you leave her alone or else she will never stop trolling you

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Labelling somebody else a troll while simultaneously trolling them? Hypocrite.

It's funny how people always look for the lowest priced ad and assume thats gona be the market value of that model and always compare the immaculate ones to the cheap shit 1 they saw earlier.

seriously if your really after a dc5r get a clean, immaculate, example thats been properly taken care of (prepare to pay atleast 20k for this but in the end its worth it) if you cant justify the price difference for a showroom condition dc5r to a 12k bomb then stay away it's probably not for you

people who try to cut costs and get bargains generally end up getting cool bills when their "Bargain's" clutch goes or motor dies, immaculate dc2r,dc5r can still go for 20k+ this is what you should aim for else don't bother with the R

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jeffreymui

Untill VTEC kicks in, the engines are identical (same CC, same cam ratios i believe, both 16v 2L)

And if the Base is flashed, its actually BETTER below vtec cams engaging on the DC5r



PS. go check ur wiki for torque figure for both of these, and u'll know the things u said, is not valid

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Sorry boss, the base model compression ratio, head casting, intake manifold, basically everything apart from the block, crankshaft and other minor parts are different. The base model does not even have traditional VTEC with an additional 3rd lobe per cylinder on the camshaft. I couldn't tell you which would be quicker at lower RPM but over any decent distance the gearing, high RPM power and lighter mass of the Type R will make it pull away from a base model like it is standing still.

Seems like the original poster doesn't really need the additional features of the Type R so just find a nice base model/luxury in your budget, and you can always K24 it down the track if you want decent performance.

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Originally Posted by Indie

Labelling somebody else a troll while simultaneously trolling them? Hypocrite.

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http://www.thefastlaneforum.com/atta...y_bro_girl.jpg

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Originally Posted by chargeR

Sorry boss, the base model compression ratio, head casting, intake manifold, basically everything apart from the block, crankshaft and other minor parts are different. The base model does not even have traditional VTEC with an additional 3rd lobe per cylinder on the camshaft. I couldn't tell you which would be quicker at lower RPM but over any decent distance the gearing, high RPM power and lighter mass of the Type R will make it pull away from a base model like it is standing still.



Seems like the original poster doesn't really need the additional features of the Type R so just find a nice base model/luxury in your budget, and you can always K24 it down the track if you want decent performance.

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Sorry boss, I was quoting what he said in previous post, I didn't type that or giveisleading info, only gave him the 'ps' message, please read msg beforehands

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Originally Posted by jeffreymui

Sorry boss, I was quoting what he said in previous post, I didn't type that or giveisleading info, only gave him the 'ps' message, please read msg beforehands

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Oh sorry, I didn't read the whole circlejerk of a thread. Maybe use the quote feature to make it clear that you are quoting someone else?

yeah, will do next time boss! iphone screen too small